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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Carb rebuild?

Started by Smalldisplacement, April 19, 2006, 10:09:12 AM

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earthquake

These carbs are so insanely simple it is not funny,there are no probs with shaft wear so don't worry about that.things to check are float,if it is a poly float check it very good for areas that look as though they are burned.this means the coating is wearing off and it is absorbing fuel.If the float is brass shake it if you don't hear fuel in it it's OK.Emulsion tubes,make sure they are very clean,use a wire or small needle to clean all the holes.And lastly air,lots of compressed air.If the carb was in use when you started, it will come apart with out gasget damage.A rebuild kit is not necessary on one of these carbs,there is nothing to wear out except the float if its poly.Been driving these cars for 25 yrs and have yet to have an internal failure of a part in one of these carbs
73 sedan parts car,80 crusin wagon conversion,76 F 250 460 SCJ,74 Ranchero 4x4,88 mustang lx convertable,and the readheaded step child 86 uhhh Chevy 4x4(Sorry guys it was cheap)

Smalldisplacement

Thanks I'll check it out.

bigh4th

before you even pull the carb down for rebuilding, check the butterfly shaft for wear on the housing/base plate.  If the carb housing/baseplate is worn enough to where the butterfly shaft can wiggle inside of it, you'll either have to have bushings pressed into the housing/base plate or get another carb without the wear.  This wear will allow the carb  to s-uck in air around the shaft and can create poor idle and a lean condition.

I don't know if the 5200 carbs have this problem, but a lot of the ford 2100 and 2150's do.

-Harry

Smalldisplacement

Never mind, Got it disassembled.

Smalldisplacement


Smalldisplacement

Okay guys, how do you remove the clip on the choke rod that connects it to the choke shaft without breaking it? (On a 5200 carb) I am trying to remove the top end so I can check the float clearance. The clip is a small plastic white t-swedge looking part. Thanks, AL.

fast34

VERY good post!!!  Also be sure to have a good air supply for blowing out carb during the cleaning process.  Use a nossle with a rubber tip so you can get a good seal when blowing out internal passages.  I would spend the little extra and replace the float, unless it's a brass one.  Those black plastic one's are hard to tell if they're bad so just replace it.  Yours is probably a brass though. Also be sure to compare all gaskets and don't throw ANYTHING away until you have it on the car and running good.  I rebuilt one years ago that someone else had put in the wrong gaskets.  I put in the ones that matched the old ones, only to have it still run badly. Just be cautious, and you'll be fine.  If you have the tag on the carb, just take it with you and your parts store should be able to order a kit from that.  GOOD LUCK!!!!

goodolboydws

You said that you haven't done a carburetor rebuild before.

Some tips, gained the hard way.

Don't start until you have everything together in one place.
This means the rebuild kit, instructions, solvent, cleaning supplies, tools, etc. Check that no special tools of any kind are needed BEFORE YOU START. You may need something that you don't have on hand, and you don't want to discover this fact at 10pm on a Sunday night.

Having a good selection of your favorite music, (whatever type that helps you concentrate) ready to go and in place, can help a lot.

(NO videos or TV, too distracting.)

Don't start untill you are in a good frame of mind to do meticulous work. With a carburetor, tiny errors or slips of a screwdriver or wrench can make for BIG problems.
Don't start until you have a good block of time set out and can live without the car and the SPACE that it (and you) will be occupying until the rebuild is complete. 


Take your time.
Make a clean, well lit place to work, one where you are comfortable SITTING, preferably with some magnification and a small magnet, tiny forceps or tweezers (to handle the smallest parts) and use something like an old beach towel with a smoother piece of cloth on top of that, on top of your work surface.  This will not only help to cushion the pieces, making it harder to accidentally nick or scratch any of the softer aluminum or brass parts, but will also kill the bounce of any parts that do fall, so that tiny parts don't disappear.

(It's almost impossible NOT to drop something when doing a carb disassembly and rebuild these things help you control how far and where it drops. A raised edge pan with clean shop cloths or paper towels in it is a good thing to use as a staging area when you are doing the reasembly.)

It may be a help to keep the parts of each particular subassembly grouped together, and then clean each subassembly separately, rather than dumping all of the smaller parts into one container and cleaning them all at one time and then trying to remember which screw, or w spring, brass jet, or tiny steel ball goes with which part or where.

I use containers such as sandwich bags or wide mouth plastic peanut butter jars with screw lids to keep this type of parts separated. A small piece of paper can be put in each one to indicate what each group is or to note any special instructions, (such as "this was 2 & 3/4 turns in, or the linkage was in the second hole from the far end, etc. ) That way if you get interrupted, there aren't a lot of loose parts sitting in the open, just waiting for someone to bump into and spill. 

Sometimes with a carb that has never been apart, it may be necessary to use a hand impact tool and a relatively small hammer to break loose stubborn cover screws.  If you end up having to do this, use a well fitting bit and the least force possible.

Write down everything that you have to, in order to do the job.
(You never know when you may get interrupted-life is like that. Best laid plans....)

If you remove any brass jets, use the magnifier and mark down which one goes where as they may have different size ORIFICES, but still be the same size overall. There are usually markings that indicate the size stamped directly into the brass some where.

Mark down the position (number of turns out)  that all the adjustment screws are in NOW, BEFORE removing  them completely when you disassemble the carb. for cleaning.
To do this, count the # of turns it takes to bottom the screw, and that will be the # of turns OUT that it must be when reassembled.

You only need to change the float if it's actually bad. Many metal floats will last practically forever, if given decent handling when outside of the carb.  With a metal (brass) float it will be easy to tell if it's bad, because it will be hollow and if there is any fuel inside of the float, you can hear it when it is shaken, and it will start to seep back out when the outside of the float is dried. Even a damaged brass float can usually be fixed by cleaning the metal and either soldering any leaks shut after draining it.  (This has to be done with an absolutely dry float, both inside and outside OBVIOUSLY.)

With a plastic foam type float, many times it's difficut to tell if the float has absorbed some fuel over time and is heavier than it should be, without having either an extremely accurate gram scale on hand (which practically nobody owns) or another float with which to roughly compare it's weight. Sometimes a visual indicator of a heavy float can be seen via the evidence of a gasoline/debris/residue "high tide level" type of buildup, which may leave a very high fuel level mark on the sides of the float bowl and on the float itself.

Be extremely careful when removing gaskets, shims, tiny springs, spacers, and diaphragms. Some of these may NOT be in the rebuild kit. Or may not be the same as what is in the kit. Or there may be 4 very similar looking gaskets and you will need to MATCH the old one to one of these, which is very difficult if the original one is now 143 shreds of gasket material.  Try to do as little disassembly damage to the soft parts as possible.

Use the magnifier to inspect the surface of the resilient tip of the old (and new) needle valves, and the sides of the needle that make contact with the insides of the inlet valve. This is where you will most likely see evidence of a wear pattern, or deformation caused by excessive pressure, dragging, or scraping that may be causing the inlet valve to not functiuon optimally.  These parts are usually included in any decent rebuild kit, BUT sometimes not all of the supplied parts will be a good fit for your exact application, and you may have an odd carb, with a design change or some special physical interference problem that necessitates reusing some of the old parts mixed with some of the new ones.  If you are forced to "mix and match", try to use ONLY the new soft parts or any new hard part that is subject to direct wear if at all possible.

Pintony

Hello Smalldisplacement,
I just added the float part numbers because that was part of the list.
Definately check your float for damage.
Not sure about your Financial situation but "Pony Carburators" are touted as being the BEST re-builders.
From Pintony

Smalldisplacement

On the 5200 (76 model)series carburetor, How accessable are the floats, Should change just the floats or should I just get the rebuild kit and go that way. This is an add on for my other post. (engine that won't stay running.) Thanks again. al