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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Engine misfires badly after warmup

Started by ponyboy, June 23, 2018, 07:32:28 PM

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ponyboy

All emissions parts except the PCV valve are gone. It does not have to pass AZ emissions, because I have it insured and registered as a collector car. I haven't had a chance to replace any of the parts yet, but I may have a lead on the problem. It could be the condenser. I have the Haynes manual 204, which covers the Pinto through 1974. In chapter 4 page 119 step 5, it says "If the engine becomes difficult to start or begins to miss after several miles of running and the breaker points show signs of burning, then the condition of the condenser must be suspect" I checked the points when I adjusted them, but maybe didn't get a good enough look at them. The distributor is buried down beneath the alternator bracket, and it's hard to avoid shadows when looking down there with a flashlight. I may remove the alternator and bracket for better access. I have new points, condenser, cap and rotor. I'm going to replace all of that stuff, and see if it solves the problem. I'm about 90% sure it's the ignition system, there is not much in a carburetor that can suddenly go wrong, especially since the choke and all  emissions crap have been removed. It's supposed to hit 110 degrees today, just too hot to work on a car in the driveway. I can't use it right now anyway, the A/C doesn't work. No parts or refrigerant available to repair it. A whole new aftermarket system would have to be installed, that's about $2000 worth of parts.

Wittsend

Does your car still have the "Decel" valve?  That is the only thing I can think of other than ignition or carburetor. We will see when you do the ignition parts swap.  If that doesn't help I'd look and see if the careb fuel level to too high. You stated it was getting plent of gas so I'm assuming it is not starvation, but it could be fuel spilling out the bowl vent.

Back to the Decel valve ... . My understanding is it bleeds air under de-acceleration (hence the name). If that is tripping too early or jamming open it might be a cause.  Most people have removed them but you may need it for a smog test in AZ.  So, it may be present.

ponyboy

Plug wires were new when I replaced the engine with a rebuilt one about 10 years ago. They still check out ok. But the engine starts up and runs fine until it warms up. It idles perfectly. For now I have decided to go with stock parts, to see if the ignition is actually the problem. I found everything at O'reillys. I got a new coil, points and condenser, cap and rotor. If that doesn't help I'll replace the wires. Not expensive. That's the entire ignition system except for the distributor. I could not find any play in the distributor shaft, but it takes very little. But as was said, it runs fine to begin with. I haven't had a chance to replace the parts yet. I'm in Phoenix, AZ, and I work in the A/C business. Pretty busy right now.

Srt

the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

pinto_one

the stock 2.0 ign was a very reliable unit when set up right , problems start when parts get changed by persons with no knowlge of what they are doing and some important parts gets damaged , one is the ground strap from the point plate to the bottom plate get removed or broken and later tossed , cheep (china ) point and condenser , or a wrong type of coil installed , good parts are getting hard to find for the old point ign systems , most here just convert to electrnic , some are good and a few will later fail and by then no replacement for it , good news is still used the same 2.0 up untel 2000 in the transit vans , with fuel injection and overdrive automatics ,  last 2.0 I worked on was back in the late 80,s and my converion was around twenty buck at the wrecker yards , I use to work at a ford ,volvo and mercides dealer, late 70s , found you could take the 78 up volvo guts and install them into the pinto unit , yes the are both bosch units , yep they take the same caps and rotors like the bug engines , used the volvo ign module (never seen one fail) and the stock bosch blue coil , they put out some spark , used the wire that ran to the stock coil to a relay (so I would not have to remove the dash to get at the resistor wire inside of the harness ) and ran the full 12 volts to the relay from the battery , but back to the same problem , how many 78 up volvos can you find now , or you can check out england e-bay motors and find a stock electrinic 2.0 unit and use a GM ign module on it ,  this is what I have done in the past , hope its of good use to someone here ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

LongTimeFordMan

Well the ignitor i was revolutionary in its time. I think it first appeared in the 90s when the only other option was the allison optical unit. And Im sure it was used in thousands of vehcles successfully.  It is basically just an on off switch triggered by a magnetic pulse..  so when current flows it gets hot.. but it cant be too sensitive since while the engine is running it is only "off" for a few thousands of a second virtually a 100 per cent duty cycle, but it works ok then.. not much different from being on continuously..

Anyway.. they work if you dont mis connect them and the series ii are available
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

LTFM thanks for checking in with Pertronix on the Ignitor I.  While 30 second and a few minutes  (a vague term for them to use) are quite different numbers, it is still a relatively short period of time for one to accidentally leave the ignition on and kill the module.  I wonder why they would continue to sell the module all these years with that "defect" given that they have to warranty it???

Regarding the distributor cap, I have found the curved edge of a hacksaw blade works well to scrape off corrosion on the  internal lugs. A light filing cleans the end of the rotor. And, steel wool works well to clean out the internal plug wire sockets.  Just remember every time they get cleaned the gap is increased. So, at some point they need to be replaced. 

oldkayaker

Before spending money, inspect the dist. cap terminals.  If they are aluminum, corrosion can become a problem.  Clean both the rotor side and the ignition wire side of the terminals.  My 2.0 started running bad one day and traced it down to corrosion in the cap where the ignition wires plug in.  I scrapped the corrosion out and it ran good again.  Always bought caps with copper/brass terminals after that.  Aluminum oxide is apparently a good insulator.  This is a long shot, but it is a cheap check.
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

LongTimeFordMan

Chances are that the problem isnt a mechanical one with the distributor or it would miss all the time not just when hot. The bosch distributors are pretty reliable. If in doubt just check for lateral wobble. Its usually the points, point rubbing block or condenser that fails

I also.spoke to the pertronix tech support today and he verified that the pertronix ignitor I can fail from.overheating if the ign is left on. But could not specify a time, just that it should tolerate a few minutes, not just 30 seconds. The ignitor Ii is protected from overheating. The ignitor functions like the points current flows continuously thru coil and module except when it is briefly interrupted by the magnetic pulse as the magnet passes the module.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

ponyboy

OK, I really appreciate all the information. I pretty much get it. I have a lot of experience with the original GM HEI. What goes in the distributer is basically a Hall Effect sensor. I would love to go that way, but since I don't know for sure if the problem is in the ignition, I can pretty much replace the entire ignition system ( wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, and coil for a lot less with Autozone parts. The only thing left is the distributor itself. It has occurred to me that there could be a mechanical problem with it. I have replaced a number of distributors in other cars, especially '70s cars, due to shaft and bushing wear, which allowed side to side play in the shaft and the cam that opens and closes the points. I've owned this car for 14 years and had very little problems with the points and condenser ignition. I may just go ahead and replace the stock parts, and if that solves the problem, I could go to electronic ignition later. And if it doesn't, then at least it has ruled it out as the cause of the problem. Again thanks for all the help. Jerry

LongTimeFordMan

Pertronix
ignitor I 1847v
Ignitor II 91847v
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

I know a number of people who used the Ignitor I in their Sunbeam Tigers and had the unit fry.  When they went to the Ignitor II the problem went away.  Maybe a bad batch?  Maybe that spread into folke lore???? Maybe new versions are redesigned?

I was fortunate in that I got a rebuilt Delco distributor with the Ignitor I already present for $25 - with shipped off Ebay. Can't beat that price. Me, I'd rather be safe than sorry so if I need the igniton on but the car isn't runnng I pull the wire.

LongTimeFordMan

Also.. has anyone actually experienced having  a series I ignitor fail?  I may be lucky but ive had one installed for 3 years with no problems.. i also discussed the "problem" with tech support and they did not seem to be concerned our reliably.

They explained that the difference between the series i and ii was that the ii had the ability to optomize the dwell time but with a 4 cylinder that wasnt critical especially with the pertronix coil.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

There you go, in less than 58 seconds you got two answers!

LongTimeFordMan

Heres a link to the pertronix website.

Pertronix.com

The tech support number is (909) 547-9058

There are a few options that fit the pinto with the bosch distbutor, the tech support person can provide you with a part umber for the module and coil. You can then source them online from amazon, ebay, summit, etc.

If you use the pertronix coil, it requires a connention directly to the ign switch. The switch is located on the steering column near the clutch/brake pedal support.

The ign wire is red with a green stripe and passes thru a connector on the lect side of the column.

You can splice a direct connection to the ign coil from here.

I can supply some pix if you need them.

Also.. if the problem isnt the ign, then upgrading to the pertronix wont help.

Ill make some pix tomorrow

Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

Quote from: ponyboy on June 25, 2018, 11:33:00 PM
Sounds great. Can you give me a part number? And what all do I need to buy? Does it fit the stock distributor? Thanks. Jerry

Look at their Catalog http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/ptx/2018/Pertronix2018.pdf  because there are different versions. I'd avoid the Ingnitor I because if the ignition is left on for more than 30 seconds (without the engine running) you run the risk of burning it up!  I have the Ignitor I on my SBC powered Studebaker and I have a quick release plug under the hood to save it from getting cooked. But it is a pain to remember (or not!).

Yes, the device fits the stock distributor/cap.  A couple of points to understand:

1. The device replaces point, but does exactly what points do. That being it (electronically) grounds and then releases to generate a spark.  This way it works with your stock setup. It does not provide a pulsed 12 + to the coil like so many assume. The "electronics" part is switching on and off to ground.

2. As LTFM already stated the Pertronix itself runs off 12V. And that needs to come from the ignition switch. The coil gets its + voltage through the resistor (again just like stock). A common mistake is that people derive the voltage for the Pertronix from the resistive side of the coil and the lower voltage causes problems.

ponyboy

Sounds great. Can you give me a part number? And what all do I need to buy? Does it fit the stock distributor? Thanks. Jerry

LongTimeFordMan

A pertronix electronic ignition module makes a major improvement in performance and reliability over the point ign.  If you decide to updgrade let me know as I have done the mod and found a ppa e to tap into the wiring at the ign switch to supply the 12 v non resistor power needed for the pertronix.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

nnn0wqk

Bad condenser or coil are 2 things that heat will effect. Might check them before doing anything else.

ponyboy


I'm having an unusual problem with my 1973 2.0. It starts and idles perfectly, and drives fine, IF you take off immediately after starting. But after several minutes it starts cutting out. This started happening about a month ago. After it has cooled down completely, it starts and runs fine again. The compression is fine, I just adjusted the valves (after the problem started) None were very far off. Carb is stock except all choke parts have been removed except the shaft the choke plate goes on. A choke is not needed here in Phoenix, AZ. I cannot find any vacuum leaks. Plugs look fine. It is getting plenty of gas to the carb. Points ajustment is fine according to the manual. Other than checking compression, plugs, valves. and points nothing else has been touched. I'm assuming it has to do with heat and not time, though that could be wrong. It just about has to be in the fuel or ignition systems. Anyone ever heard of this before? Any ideas would definitely be appreciated. Thank you. Jerry