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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

78 Bobcat wagon 2.3l timing belt

Started by boughtabobcat, April 07, 2014, 04:04:25 PM

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boughtabobcat

One final update- was looking around on the net and in checking out some pics of a 78 bobcat wagon that had been posted as an advertisement for sale, I came across these pics of the engine which had clear views of the vacuum lines, so I finally saw how to route the lines from the check valve on the air cleaner I had questions about. Maybe posting the pics will help anyone else who has questions about the vacuum lines on a 2.3L with the Holley 5200 carb like I had...

amc49

Not a vacuum canister in the driver wheelwell, rather, the carbon canister for emissions.

boughtabobcat

Here's some pics of how the main vacuum lines are routed atm, seems to give me the best performance so far...

amc49

Could literally be several things. Maybe public library if in the big city, the reference section. Mine here has service manuals for older Fords like the vacuum diagram ones.

boughtabobcat

Well, the son-in-law showed up with the timing light, and we got it set to the sticker advised 20 degrees BTDC (I had it set at 30), but it was running poorly- missing badly and wanting to choke itself out. So it was time for some rooting around under the carb, and I found a collapsed vacuum line coming from the intake manifold. Luckily it was long enough that I was able to pull it, trim about an inch and a half off the collapsed end, flipped it around so the "bad" end was coming out, and yippee!! It runs better than I had imagined! I also started to investigate the other vacuum  lines and discovered that a few had been routed wrong, and a couple needed some trimming and refitting. But now I have one other issue that's just bugging me- there's a green check valve diaphragm coming off the air cleaner (it points directly towards the front of the motor) that has ports for two vacuum lines coming off (one slightly larger on the bottom), well these ports just have been plugged with one section of vacuum line going from one to the other, but I wonder should they actually be going to something? Its got the Model 5200 V2 carb on it- does anyone know of a place I can get a diagram of the vacuum lines for that carb and how they're routed? Or is leaving it plugged going to be okay? As I said, its running really well atm, just idles a little high for my taste....

amc49

Timing by ear is how you lose scads of fuel wasted on a car that still seems to run great......................you will not feel the 2-3 horses lost by it not being optimum but be assured the gas mileage will. And only five degrees or less error can send emissions totally out the window.

Pinto5.0

Good to hear you got it sorted out. I timed by ear for years but broke down & bought a good dial back timing light 25 years ago.

Happy Easter!!
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

boughtabobcat

Well, just to update- the weather finally got nice enough for me to put in the timing belt, and thanks to all the advice and tips here, things went really smoothly, only one minor glitch. After getting the cam and crankshaft timing marks all lined up and set, I made sure the rotor was pointing at the #1 wire.... forgot that it needed to be the ORIGINAL position for #1, and not the position for #1 after it had been timed previously -DUH! anyway, looked at the timing mark on the cover, saw that it was sitting at 2 degrees BTDC, just like the sticker on the valve cover stated, fired it up and it was running poorly, but running. So started slowly turning the distributor ccw, and got it to where it sounded good and jumped in for a spin. Lo and behold, I had no power on acceleration at all! So I turned it as far as I could ccw and still the same. Finally the light bulb went off and I remembered that I needed to set the rotor at the ORIGINAL position for #1 which was basically 7o'clock (when looking at the distributor from the left fender well), and I had set it to the TIMED position for #1, which was 4 o'clock. So I just loosened the belts, turned the crank back around to the timing mark (I had knocked out the little port at the top of the timing belt cover when I had it off before and had cut the fan shield in half so I could just remove the top half to see), reset the distributor to the original #1 position, and voila! It was then just a matter of turning the dist. to get it to purr like a kitten! Still don't have a timing light so I've done it by ear, but it runs better than ever now! The sticker on the valve cover says 20 degrees BTDC and my son in law is coming in this weekend for Easter, so I'm having him bring his timing light to see how far off I am, but the way the Dragon Wagon is running now, I doubt I'll change a thing! Thanks again everyone for the tips and advice! Happy Easter to all!

amc49

Later electronic ignition helps, you can line up the reluctor very close to make it start almost instantly.  Using reluctor is closer than using rotor. I personally never keep cranking, if it does not start in 3 seconds I go looking for the reason.

X2 on the timing light needed, every belt settles in a little different, they often vary up to 3-4 degrees in timing. Some will be dead on and some won't.

71pintoracer

You will also need to turn the distributor CCW before you point the rotor to #!. These engines need a lot of CW rotation to get the ignition timing right. And yes, you need a timing light. After you get the belt on, turn the dist CW a little bit and it should fire up. If not move it some more.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

amc49

Make sure you get correct belt for the teeth on sprockets. Round tooth for round tooth sprocket and square tooth for square. The parts stores commonly mess that up.

Turn engine several turns clockwise just before you set the tensioner and stop gently on your mark by sneaking up on it. Do NOT turn backwards, it drops off tension at the tensioner roller. You are rolling all belt looseness to the left side to allow tensioner to eat it up. Let the tensioner spring load belt while doing all that and when you slowly stop, then tighten tensioner bolt. Do NOT add more tension yourself, you will simply cut belt life in half.

Never turn backwards or counterclockwise at the crank, these can easily jump time by doing so. If you go too far trying to set the marks then keep going clockwise and start over.

Pinto5.0



Do the upper then move the string to the lower & line it up with the idler.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

boughtabobcat

Thanks, 5.0! Line the strings up center of the sprocket bolts and align the marks along the string, I guess?

Pinto5.0

Changing the belt is easy enough. Just follow the directions in the manual. Running a string between the timing marks helps assure you are lined up.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

boughtabobcat

Okay guys, needing all the knowledge I can get, starting a project in the next couple of days and I want to be sure I do it right, cause I love my lil' Dragon Wagon! Here's the scenario- was driving my GF to her sisters last night(about 15 miles away) and noticed when I started the Dragon Wagon that it was idling pretty high, and wouldn't kick down like it normally does. Also, when I got it backed out of the carport and started driving, it was lacking the normal awesome power that a 2.3l 4 cyl puts out (Lol!). I didn't think much of it, made it to Sis's and while I was in the driveway there, sprayed the carb down with gumout just to clean things up a bit. Started it up, still idling a bit high, went to the local market about 1/4 mile away, got some smokes, and went to head home. Started good again, now idling more normally. Got to driving up a slight hill about 1/2 mile down the road but was lacking power and near the top of the hill, the DW just dies- no backfire, nothing- just quit. So I turn it over a couple of times and it won't start. Checked the gas gauge(step one) and it had gas, so I pulled the gas line from the fuel filter and crank it a couple of times and no gas, so I assume its the fuel pump. Found a ride, went to town about 40 miles away and got a fuel pump($25). Pushed the car into the driveway of a wonderful older gent who was kind enough to let me use it, and replaced fuel pump. Still no start. Took fuel line off at fuel filter again, and no fuel - AHH! So called a friend of mine who's a mechanic and he suggested also checking for spark- no spark at the #1 plug, but good spark from the coil when I took the coil wire off the distributor. (stuck a screwdriver in the end and laid said screwdriver on the fender.) Next step was taking off the dist. cap and seeing if the rotor was turning, which it ain't. :(  Quick peek at the timing belt at the top of the cover showed a raggedy, cracked, frayed looking thing just screaming to be replaced. So to the zone I went, got a new timing belt($12) and now I'm in the process of getting the DW towed home to change the timing belt. I do have a Haynes manual for the wagon, but I'd like to know if there are any secrets, tips, things to be careful of, or any easy ways to do this lil' project that you guys know and might share... oh yeah, I don't have a timing light....