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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Question For Gear-Heads Familiar With 1600 Kent Engines

Started by blupinto, April 12, 2014, 07:26:20 PM

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amc49

Heliarc used on aluminum does not raise nearly the heat like brazing does. The aluminum radiates it like lightning. The braze needs like a 6 inch patch (on sheet metal) at like 1600 degrees, the heliarc only maybe 2 inch. The braze also slowly comes up to that temp, the heliarc does the weld instantly, no 3-4 minutes of heavily heating the part. The heat radiation on brazing is the killer there. The whole local area there must be red orange hot. Enough time to cook gaskets and seal if they are anywhere close.

Actually Dad once brazed an AMC pan crack by draining, flushing with acetone, blowing the acetone out with wet vac for two hours then brazed on a DEEP sump pan with the vac still going to purge vapors from ignition. That patch spot was like a solid 15 inches from the closest gasket.

Stock pan will be much closer to burnable parts.

You can use like acetone followed by easy to find 91% isopropyl alcohol and final rinse with water and then using wet/dry vacuum again to purge you can do anything to a gas tank. The water in tank will seep into the weld to scrap it unless you put tank just right, the purging allows for any position.

dick1172762

I've seen cracks on aluminum pans mig welded in the car so why not steel? Isn't going to hurt to try and fire is easy to prevent by firing off a co2 fire bottle down the breather / oil filler neck. I have welded gas tanks that way and filling them 99% full of water are the only two ways that will work.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

amc49

I've epoxied hundreds of things and what you're doing there will not have a high reliability attached. Epoxy is tough but 9 times out of 10 it will come loose from like a steel pan because of the different expansion rates between the plastic and the metal there, in short, the whole lump comes loose after a while. Not to mention you MUST get to the backside to guarantee it BONE DRY (last treatment in acetone or alcohol or forget doing it) for epoxy to stay stuck. Hot oil will leach under epoxy to gradually let it come loose, the temp changes encourage it. Already leached if the patch was not done on bone dry surface. Commonly on a patch like that I have drilled holes through pan and bolted or riveted down sheet metal patches to both sides with epoxy trapped underneath, that can last for many years. If crack is on a flat you can add an external metal patch over the glue to stretch out the length of time it lasts.

I use epoxy a lot but the common uses most use it for are mostly miserable failures, I watched it 9 times out of 10 at the parts store all day long. You have to put some thought to it rather than just slather it on there and hope for the best. Some applications simply will not work and based on conditions there. Most fail simply by not being clean enough.

You absolutely cannot braze the pan with it on car, do so and find out one of several reasons why. BTDT. For one you'll catch the remaining oil (even if drained) in motor on fire.

Maybe if the Pinto is one with mechanical rod linkage and not cable? Having to lift engine to remove pan might damage the linkage.

Clydesdale80

Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

blupinto

I nixed the idea of removing the pan when I got under the car today and saw that the rear of the oil pan seems to go into the transmission bellhousing. As I'm not experienced enough- or strong enough- to remove a transmission, I went to plan B... which is cleaning the pan REALLY well and applying a thick coat of JB Weld (with the steel in it) onto the crack. I have no real good way of cleaning the inside of the oil pan aside from draining it overnight and carefully sticking paper towel to soak up as much excess oil I can. This engine has an external oil pump.  THe original coating of JB Weld was rather thin.   Thank you, Clydesdale, for the tips. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this'll hold.

One can never have too many Pintos!

Clydesdale80

I'm guessing the JB-weld was softened by oil seeping through the crack and lost its adhesion/durability. That's why I suggested emptying the oil and rinsing it out as well as u can with something to thin the oil.  Then let it cure without contact with oil and after its curing period it should be able to stand up to the oil.  Epoxies are tough once cured completely hardened but contact with oils or solvents while still soft prevents it from reacting properly.

I'm not sure how thick you put it on the first time but just filling the crack won't hold.  I also don't know how big the crack is.  In order to get it to hold you will have to put it on fairly thick 1/8'-3/16" or more if the crack is big, also make sure it's spread over an area surrounding the crack.  I'm not sure how much aesthetics come in to play but its not going to look overly pretty.

Also, don't use JB-stick or JB-quick. Neither is near as strong as the original JB-weld (JB-stick is exceptionally awful).  I prefer PC epoxies over JB because from my experience, they hold up better to grinding and they have just enough flexibility not to be brittle/crackable.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

blupinto

Clydesdale, I tried the JB Weld... the crack came back. Maybe I didn't put enough on it...?  It's a thin coat. I have plenty more.

One can never have too many Pintos!

Clydesdale80

Quote from: Wittsend on April 12, 2014, 07:52:48 PM
Where is the crack?  While not the best option if he is brazing maybe you just drain the oil, let is sit a while. A can of cleaner on a nozzle can be aimed through the drain plug to attempt to clean the area behind the crack. Then, braze it attached to the car? Even soldering a metal patch over it might do it..

I wouldn't recommend doing any kind of welding without removing it from the engine.  Tiny metal droplets and bits of slag could be left inside the pan ready to break loose and damage something the next time you start the engine.  Might not be an issue but I'd worry.

I would either take it off to weld or drain the oil, dump in some seafoam or something else to rinse out the remaining oil and drain again to get the crack as clean as possible and then apply some epoxy like pc-11 or maybe jb-weld.

Best of luck, whatever you choose to do
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

blupinto

Thank you. I would REALLY like to not remove the pan at all, but Dave, my friend at work, told me just soldering the outside without really cleaning the inside will set me up for failure. Of course I can't afford to have a hole blown in the pan because I can't find 1600 oil pans anymore. The crack is towards the front of the pan on the bottom. There are a collection of dings there.


The only stress I could think it may have is the heat from hot oil.


Definitely not an automatic. I was thinking as I saw that instruction about disconnecting the throttle linkage how that even relates to an oil pan. lol Maybe because of the fuel pump?


Speaking of pumps... I guess I have to remove the external oil pump too. Only thing is, I can't find gaskets for that.


I'm sorry I didn't spell braze right. I never saw that spelling til now. I never even heard of brazing til Dave told me he could do it.
One can never have too many Pintos!

Wittsend

It would strike me as odd to remove the throttle linkage to remove the oil pan.  If it is an automatic... maybe... the kickdown linkage is in the way?

Where is the crack?  While not the best option if he is brazing maybe you just drain the oil, let is sit a while. A can of cleaner on a nozzle can be aimed through the drain plug to attempt to clean the area behind the crack. Then, braze it attached to the car? Even soldering a metal patch over it might do it.

  The pan is not under pressure or subject to any real stress.  The hardest part would be to keep oil from oozing out the crack and contaminating the repair.  Me, I'd probably put my MIG welder on its lowest setting and hope I didn't blow a hole in the pan.. I mean nothing is really lost because it if didn't work..., you just pull  the pan - anyway.  But if it works your that much further ahead.

blupinto

Hi All!  ;D


I know I've been absent for awhile. Last year was a really bad year for me, and this year isn't looking too hot either. However, I'm not here to whine about my life lately... I really need help with something... or at least some understanding.


Ruby RedHot has a crack in her oil pan. I tried to clean the exterior and apply JB Weld, hoping it would hold. It didn't. I have a friend at work who's a dab(?) hand at welding, and he offered to braise the pan for me, which means I need to remove the pan. I looked in the Ford Shop Manual for instructions to do this, and one of the instructions tells me to remove the throttle linkage from the carburetor. Why is this necessary? Back in 2011 I was at the great Fred Morgan's Pinto World and we both worked on adjusting Ruby's valves, which meant removing the valve cover... which meant removing throttle linkage from the carburetor. Well, it was all well and good til I was leaving Parker, AZ for Denver and the starting point of the first Pinto Stampede when I lost power. Turns out that the stupid throttle clip freed itself and I was unable to put it back on by myself. Thank goodness Fred came to my rescue!!! He put a hose clamp in place and I was good to go. That clamp is still there, but I'm afraid to remove it, so I am hoping I don't have to. Any advice is welcome, as long as it's not putting me or my car down. I do that to myself enough. Thank you.
One can never have too many Pintos!