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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Knock, Knock.

Started by rramjet, November 15, 2013, 08:49:48 PM

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slowride

Quote from: amc49 on November 17, 2013, 11:45:09 PM
Problem is, it won't leak plain water but put AFZ in it and then it leaks. Antifreeze is slicker than plain water and will leak where water doesn't. Seen it a hundred times.

They took the zinc out of STP a long time ago. Against the law to use it since sold for use in on highway vehicles. You can still get zinc in some oils like specialty race since they will state on side of container not for highway use. And why you pay so much for that disclaimer now.

I used either straight 30 (winter) or 40 weight (summer) for many years in my Mustang II with 2.3, it never once knocked on startup. I hear all the jazz about using lightweight oils on cold start to prevent 'dry start' but a misconception, only two or three true dry starts and the engine tears up pretty fast. My view is that the thinner oil also drains out of bearings faster since capillary action that keeps it in place drops with thinner oil weight. And after pulling down many engines that did not run for years prior to teardown, you find oil around the bearings when torn down. I even run heavier weight in my late model Ford zetecs, 30 weight forever until Walmart quit carrying it, now 10-40, I don't put the suggested 5-20 in ANYTHING. 3 cars running like that now and can't tear them up. I have actually fixed startup higher mileage knock by switching others cars and trucks to heavier weight oil before, chew that one over for a bit. The thicker oil does not backdrain out as much before cooldown, they don't mention that at all in the oil ads do they???

I was told running too heavy a weight oil in my variable cam timing would mess it up, 180K now and still no trouble at all with it. LOL.

I'm in Texas, you can't get away with that up north, it gets too cold. I can start a car here even at 5 degrees, it rarely gets colder than that.

You can look at BITOG two ways, they know everything or some of them are quite full of crap. Doesn't matter if they ARE engineers, once you see things yourself real world you can find fault with some of their ideas too. I used to know some engineers at Vought Aerospace, some of those guys were flat crazy and their ideas were as well. We built engines for them, they could not keep them together.
Quote from: amc49 on November 17, 2013, 11:45:09 PM
Problem is, it won't leak plain water but put AFZ in it and then it leaks. Antifreeze is slicker than plain water and will leak where water doesn't. Seen it a hundred times.

They took the zinc out of STP a long time ago. Against the law to use it since sold for use in on highway vehicles. You can still get zinc in some oils like specialty race since they will state on side of container not for highway use. And why you pay so much for that disclaimer now.

I used either straight 30 (winter) or 40 weight (summer) for many years in my Mustang II with 2.3, it never once knocked on startup. I hear all the jazz about using lightweight oils on cold start to prevent 'dry start' but a misconception, only two or three true dry starts and the engine tears up pretty fast. My view is that the thinner oil also drains out of bearings faster since capillary action that keeps it in place drops with thinner oil weight. And after pulling down many engines that did not run for years prior to teardown, you find oil around the bearings when torn down. I even run heavier weight in my late model Ford zetecs, 30 weight forever until Walmart quit carrying it, now 10-40, I don't put the suggested 5-20 in ANYTHING. 3 cars running like that now and can't tear them up. I have actually fixed startup higher mileage knock by switching others cars and trucks to heavier weight oil before, chew that one over for a bit. The thicker oil does not backdrain out as much before cooldown, they don't mention that at all in the oil ads do they???

I was told running too heavy a weight oil in my variable cam timing would mess it up, 180K now and still no trouble at all with it. LOL.

I'm in Texas, you can't get away with that up north, it gets too cold. I can start a car here even at 5 degrees, it rarely gets colder than that.

You can look at BITOG two ways, they know everything or some of them are quite full of crap. Doesn't matter if they ARE engineers, once you see things yourself real world you can find fault with some of their ideas too. I used to know some engineers at Vought Aerospace, some of those guys were flat crazy and their ideas were as well. We built engines for them, they could not keep them together.
While what your saying about viscosity and heavier weight oils is partially correct, thinner oils are are recommended for newer higher tolerance engines for a simple reason. Visualize clearance as a straw....... the larger the ID of the straw, the more worn and greater clearances. Now, let's try to pour a viscous fluid through the straw... without any more pressure than atmospheric. The smaller the straw, the thinner the fluid to be able to flow into and through the straw. The bigger the straw, the thicker fluid that can flow through it. In the extreme, think of a heavy oil as jello, then try to pour it through a straw. There are also other factors involved such as shear. A thinner oil will penetrate the gap rather than trying to be pushed through and shearing.... creating heat and contributing to viscosity breakdown. Consider also that it takes more HP to pump a thicker oil.
The takeaway is that one should use the appropriate oil for the engine's condition and not just assume thicker is better. I run 40w in higher mile engines to help compensate for wear. Doesn't make much sense on a tight engine, though.

dick1172762

Blue can for 4 cylinders has the most. 8) Or that what they(STP)says.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

jeremysdad

amc, it (STP) still has zinc, according to the label. :)

amc49

Problem is, it won't leak plain water but put AFZ in it and then it leaks. Antifreeze is slicker than plain water and will leak where water doesn't. Seen it a hundred times.

They took the zinc out of STP a long time ago. Against the law to use it since sold for use in on highway vehicles. You can still get zinc in some oils like specialty race since they will state on side of container not for highway use. And why you pay so much for that disclaimer now.

I used either straight 30 (winter) or 40 weight (summer) for many years in my Mustang II with 2.3, it never once knocked on startup. I hear all the jazz about using lightweight oils on cold start to prevent 'dry start' but a misconception, only two or three true dry starts and the engine tears up pretty fast. My view is that the thinner oil also drains out of bearings faster since capillary action that keeps it in place drops with thinner oil weight. And after pulling down many engines that did not run for years prior to teardown, you find oil around the bearings when torn down. I even run heavier weight in my late model Ford zetecs, 30 weight forever until Walmart quit carrying it, now 10-40, I don't put the suggested 5-20 in ANYTHING. 3 cars running like that now and can't tear them up. I have actually fixed startup higher mileage knock by switching others cars and trucks to heavier weight oil before, chew that one over for a bit. The thicker oil does not backdrain out as much before cooldown, they don't mention that at all in the oil ads do they???

I was told running too heavy a weight oil in my variable cam timing would mess it up, 180K now and still no trouble at all with it. LOL.

I'm in Texas, you can't get away with that up north, it gets too cold. I can start a car here even at 5 degrees, it rarely gets colder than that.

You can look at BITOG two ways, they know everything or some of them are quite full of crap. Doesn't matter if they ARE engineers, once you see things yourself real world you can find fault with some of their ideas too. I used to know some engineers at Vought Aerospace, some of those guys were flat crazy and their ideas were as well. We built engines for them, they could not keep them together.

74 PintoWagon

Antifreeze is an engine killer, anytime I build a motor the first fire up is on pure water only or if I do anything where I need to drain the coolant like pulling a head I drain the system, after I run it on water and I know there's no leaks then I'll drain it and add the coolant.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

rramjet

I don't typically use STP just becasue I never felt a need for it but in this case I hoped it might help with the knock. No luck.

I remember my Dad showing me how well STP worked back in the 60's. He started the engine in the family 57 Ford and said listen and as he poured it in you could hear the engine speed up a little.  That was enough to make him a believer. Besides, if Andy Granetelli said it was good that was good enough for him.

I readjusted the valves and have it purring now so the knock is even easier to hear. I read somewhere that many times the reason for rod knocks after a head job is antifreeze getting in the oil and forming an acid that attacks the bearing surface. I did have a little water go into the cylinders when I lifted the head off but not much and I poured some Marvel Mystery Oil into each cycliner to keep things loose while the head was off and of course new oil and filter before restart so don't see how that could be the cause but who knows.

dick1172762

Nothing wrong with STP! It has a high amount of zinc in it,(blue can/4cylinder) and is in used every form of racing. That's what we used 50 years ago along with powered moly to coat the bearings/cam, etc. I've used STP in all my cars(racers too) and have never-never had a bearing problem. STP is short for Scientifically Treated Petroleum. Good stuff.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

jeremysdad

I run 93 octane in mine, because (as you mentioned) the owner's manual calls for 91, and regardless of leaded or not, octane rating should be octane rating, unless the mathematical formula changed with the removal of lead. With such a small tank, it usually works out to about $2 difference per tank. Cheaper than replacing pistons, and a lot easier. Ymmv.

Also, I believe the owner's manual specs 20-50 at anything above freezing. I run 20-50 if I use the more expensive Zinc additives (they're usually about as thick as 10-30, at best), but wouldn't run STP with it.

Your oil pressure sounds fine, to me. 30 psi at hot idle is good for any motor, and your pre-headwork levels never falling below 50 psi could have just meant that a passage in the head was restricted (spun cam bearing or restricted oil bar, perhaps).

Make sure your timing is set correctly, that your cam timing is correct...also...I have an exhaust leak at the manifold collector that sounds like a knock, mainly at idle and cruise.

Hope you get it sorted out, and that it's something easy, cheap, and simple. :)

dick1172762

That filter is one of the very best. I learned my lesson with the cam lube. Like nitro, I though if enough is ok, more is better, and too much is just right.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

rramjet

Thanks.

I have a NAPA Gold filter (Wix) on it. I used Comp cams lube which is thick but pours. Only had a small packet of it but enough for the critical areas.

I do run 91 octane in it although it probably doesn't really need it since compression is only supposed to be 8.2 on these things. It is interesting that my owners manual calls for 91 octane Regular but think this was before reformulating of the gas for unleaded.

Going to play with the timing a little bit and see if it helps.

dick1172762

One other thing. Have you changed the filter? I once used so much moly lube on the new cam in my 2.0 that the filter got pluged up with the moly and the engine started to knock. Use good a filter too. Read this to understand more.http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/opinions.html
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Could be piston slap if the motor is a fresh re-build. Try taking off one spark plug wire at a time while the engine is running. That should tell you if its a rod knock. After that do like the Brits do, (run it till it breaks,  then you know what is wrong). The 2.0 Fords don't like a lot of spark advance because of the stock compression being pretty high. And spark knock is not always heard by the driver.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

rramjet

Thanks for the thoughts.

The knock started when I was running the 10W30. I've used Valvoline 20W50 in other cars I have,, (hot rods) without problems. It contains zinc which has been removed from other oils and according to many is essential for flat tappet cam life.

This sound is not the preignition ping sound I'm familiar with but I will bring the timing back a little since it is quite advanced to where it seems to like to run best.

I have to admit when I first noticed the sound on engine start up I thought it was valve train noise even though it was a deeper sound than you typically get from the valve train but seemed to be at the same frequency. I'm still not ruling it out since that's where all the work was but I inspected everything and readjusted the valves and just can't see anything wrong.

Keep the ideas coming. Would love not to have to tear into the bottom end of this thing.


dick1172762

NEVER,NEVER use racing oil in a street car. It is not made with all the stuff that oil co put in the oil for street use. It is made for a race engine that changes oil as often as every run on the track. On any car unless its driven for hours every time,or worn slap-dab out, NEVER use thick oil. I use Mobil I 10w-30 in my Pinto and 5w-30 in my Suburban. With the oil you have + STP, I'm sure the oil in your pan is like gear lube. Even 5w oil is to thick to reach the bearings when you fire the car up. That's why I use Mobil I as the motor will turn over as fast when cold as when hot. Gets to bearings faster. Go to http://bobistheoilguy.com to read all there is about oil!!!! Castrol just came out with 0W-40 Edge oil.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: rramjet on November 16, 2013, 09:29:50 AMStarted out with Brad Penn 10W30 oil then switched to Valvoline racing 20W50 and a can of STP.

I'm going to suggest something to try before you do anything else... from my experience that is way.... to thick of oil for a Pinto motor. since you are down south I would recommend 10w40 with 1/2 quart of Lucas. When you hear a slight knock at startup and then goes away after running a few seconds that would be the lifters oiling up. If it take a little warming it indicates the oil is to thick and when it thins out (warmer) the knock goes away at lower speeds. I experience this with mine when I used thicker oil. The only time I hear a knocking at speed (45+) I would consider 2 things... low octane gas, I experienced this once on a long trip and started using 91/92 octane and the "under heavy load" knock when away. Now I only use the higher octane gas even in my stock Pintos. 2nd thing I would double check is timing.

start w/the simple stuff 1st (oil) and seriously IMO 20w50 is just 2 thick even for the warmer temps down south
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

rramjet

Quote from: Srt on November 16, 2013, 03:17:41 AM
noise under acceleration...at steady cruise...deceleration?

I hear it when I start the car for the first time each day for a short time. Then when I drive it after it's warmed up at about 45-50. Seems to diminish somewhat under load. Get it if accelerating from 45 or backing off. I did have a new cam, cam bearings, followers and oil tube put in when I did the head. Also new timing belt and tensioner. I spun the oil pump to verify oil out of all of the tube holes. Started out with Brad Penn 10W30 oil then switched to Valvoline racing 20W50 and a can of STP.

I adjusted the valves to .008 intake and .010 exhaust. They seem noisy but don't know if the valve stem tips were surfaced or not. Oil pressure is about 60 psi and drops down to about 30 idling in gear once warmed up. Picks back up to 60 on acceleration. It's a direct reading gauge. This is a change from before the head work. Then the oil pressure was never below 50. I'm suspecting a change in cam bearing clearance but not sure how since it was a new cam and bearings. Could also be that the PO was running gear lube. I never changed the oil because it was clean and oil pressure was good. Ran about 2500 miles before doing the head work.

I did find a thread on installing a 2.3 Turbo in a 73 and it seems like more than I want to tackle at this point.




Srt

noise under acceleration...at steady cruise...deceleration?
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

jeremysdad

What oil are you running? I would hope at least 15w-40... :) With 10w-40, my 2.0 'knocked' like a new Kia. They will always sound like an old Singer...that's just what they do.

Have you verified 0 oil pressure at the main bearings with a known gauge? Sounds more like mal-adjusted valves...no offense. :)

rramjet

Well I went through the head on my 73 2.0 and got it running nice. Now guess what; it has a rod knock. Comes on around 50 Mph.

I have read about cases of doing the engine top end bringing the compression and performance up to the point that the bottom end goes, just didn't expect to experience it.

Now contemplating my next step. I have the car at our AZ. Winter location so don't have all my tools from home but probably enough to get the motor out with a rental hoist and tear it down. Another option would be a 5.0 but not sure how much work that would be. It has an Auto Trans, I'm guessing C3. Anyone know what engines these will mate up to?

I like the idea of the turbo coupe motor but guessing these are rare. Would the later Ranger motor fit? Seem to be a few of them around. Wouldn't mind some more power. Seems to me there were also some later Pintos with a V6 probably the same one in the Mustang II's. Are they any good?

I welcome any suggestions.