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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

My 78 wagon

Started by 78wagondriver, May 31, 2012, 12:27:42 AM

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74 PintoWagon

Glad to hear it's running good.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

78wagondriver

Well its been a year now time for an update. About a week or two after my last post I figured out the problem with my carb causing it to run poorly with the air filter on. It was not a case of too little air as I suspected, but too much air. My carb mounting bolts were loose so when I put on the air filter and tightend it down the filter housing would push against hoses and stuff to lift the carb slightly off the intake manifold. This slight crack would allow air to bypass the carb and have too Little fuel to run right or at all if too tight. Tightening the mounting bolts solved that problem. I then tinkered with the idle adjust screw a little. with that fix done I drove the car around town short trips of ten miles or less whenever I could. After a month or so I developed a transmission leak so bad it would dump a quart of fluid every ten miles. eventually after a month or so I finally got it on a lift to see about it. The source of the leak was a bad pinch with a shear in one of the metal transmission cooling lines where they go between the oil pan and engine cross member. So I cut out around the pinch and spliced the metal line with a rubber fuel hose clamped on each end. No more transmission leaks since. It drove well enough with the only major problems being a slow oil leak at a poorly fitted valve cover cap and the ever present extremely rough Idle. This weekend I fixed those issues and other minor things. For the oil cap I tried a made in china OEM replacement breather cap, but it would not fit. What I did find that worked was an eight dollar breather cap at Orielys. It was a push in style that said it was for 1.25 inch aftermarked valve covers. I pinched and shoved its gasket in my valve cover then pushed it in for a perfect snug fit. Then I checked my PCV valve and saw it was loose inside the bottom hose so I clamped it. Now I have a slight vacuum at the nozzle of the breather cap. Next thing I did was remove my EGR valve from the intake. I had removed its vaccum line a year or more ago and thought it would be shut. I plugged the hole on the intake with a bit of shelving board cut to roughly match the gasket bolted in place. Most kits for EGR delete use aluminium, but wood works for now... With the wood in place I cranked my engine to a unusually smooth and low Idle and heard the put put of exhaust coming out the now free hanging EGR valve. It had rusted wide open. I hack sawed the EGR line off at the header and pounded flat and folded over the remainder close to the header to end a loud exhaust leak. While I was at it I tried to do the same for the old smog pump fitting on the header. it didn't fold so well and snapped off at the thread in piece. Unable to find a bolt about 9/16Th's of an inch wide to plug it I got creative with what scrap I had lying around. I took a spent 7.62 x54r steel rifle case and hammered that in. No more exhaust leaks. No more oil leaks. No more transmission leaks. No coolant or fuel leaks yet and no power steering pump to leak. Car cold starts easily with one or two pedal pumps, runs smooth with only a little engine shake,likely due to bad balance, worn engine mounts, and has enough power to peel out for a second or so from a stop on dry pavement. Front suspension is GONE though. I hear the shocks hiss their full travel on some speed bumps and deep dips when I hit them faster than I can walk.Theres no end to the fun things to fix and learn about on this car.
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

78wagondriver

  The pinto ran fairly well yesterday with the exception of it has been getting hard to start over last couple of days. This morning it took a few tries to start and would not idle at all. I had to drive my truck to work. This afternoon I think I figured out what was wrong. With the air cleaner off the engine Idles fine. I figured I might need a new filter for more air flow. The guy at the parts store said it could be that my carb is way too rich so its taking a lot of air to make it reach proper fuel air ratio. this makes a lot of since and explains my terrible 20 mpg fuel economy. For now I find it runs allright so long as I only loosely tighten the air cleaner case. I also have some kind of solenoid controlled vacuum operated enriching valve thing on my Holley Weber 6500 carb. I had that plugged off before so now I have a week vacuum going to it. I'll see what that dose for it. I think I might need to adjust my idle mixture.
My Haynes manual tells me what kind of carb I have and where stuff is on it. It doesn't tell me anything about tuning it and recommends taking it to a ford dealership as only ford can properly adjust the carbs settings. No way am I doing that. Ive been thinking about getting a new or re-manufactured carb that is simpler and doesn't have any extra stuff on it. In the mean time I would like to try tuning this one. Any one have any pointers on getting it close to right? Today I took my truck to the junk yard and found a mustang 2 that just came in today. I needed a spare rim and tire and on this car I hit the jackpot. I got a four slot rim with a brand new kumho powerstar tire on it. That cheep Chinese tire is a perfect match with the four others on my car. I also got the four mustang 2 hubcaps. Ill save my pinto caps for later and use these for daily driver use as they are a Little more worn than the ones I got on eBay. They have little mustangs in the center, but hey pintos are ponies too. I got all that for 50 bucks.
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

dga57

Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

r4pinto

Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

78wagondriver

I got my hubcaps today!
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

78wagondriver

I took some pictures with my phone at its lowest setting so I could post them. Well that didn't work, but format factory did. These show my interior that I spent around 100 bucks redoing. The original door panels were red vinyl but were falling apart and mutilated by a previous owner cutting them for speakers with little care for doing a nice job. The seats it came with were yellow so not from this car and were torn up so I put some forty dollar walmart covers on them. the spare tire well had no cover so I made one out of plywood and covered it with same auto carpet from O'reilys. The stereo is a 120$ pioneer head unit with 50$ pioneer 6.5s that fit flush to the panel with a couple millimeters clearance for the moving window parts. The stereo is by far the most expensive part I've put on the car so far followed by the seat covers then the master cylinder. I'm propably not going to do much more to the interior other than finish carpeting the cargo hold and maybe make a headliner for it. I think first I will work on things like ride quality and engine performance now that I have the important issues of stereo and brakes worked out.
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

82expghost

my voltage regulator went bad and was charging no problem, just it was pumping out 15.8 somtimes spiking to 17, it took it a week to fry the alternator, your lights could be coming on though if your ground isnt hooked to your engine or alternator, while playing with wires i figured this out
98 taurtus, now in heaven
82 exp, the race car, cancer took it away
77 pinto, weekend warrior
92 grand marquis, daily

D.R.Ball

Nope it should not be a problem as the hub caps fit in to the rim lip and not on the wheel it self. As for the brakes if you hear a whoose sound when you hit the brakes(up front) the vacuum booster has failed and changing the master cylinder will not fix it. This happened with my 1976 Pinto Wagon.

78wagondriver

I got my new master cylinder installed. The brakes work fine now. while I had the hood off I pressure washed rust out of the engine bay and wire brushed and repainted the underside of the hood. The original radiator overheated and exploded on the previous owner. Its been a few days and several starts since the ALT light came in. If It was a badt VR or Alt the batery would be dead by now especial with runing lights and sterio. I got my engine runing smoother, starting easier and pulling stronger in low RPM by fixing the vacuum leaks cused by trashed emissions control components. removing the parts and lines and pluging off the vacuum leaks dosnt do anything for economy on my motor though. Its a CALI car so its got the Holley weber 6500 feedback carburetur on it. I fount a haynes guid for the car so eventualy Ill get the engine down to its bare essentials and tune it for the best fuel ecomomy I can get. Looks like its going to cost around 250 bucks for new springs and shocks up font. I think I'll replace the swaybar hardware sooner though as its probably cheaper and might lessend the body roll I get when pulling U turns. I got what I think is a good deal on hubcaps on ebay. 4 for 15$ plus 16$ shipping. They shoul fit as they are 13 inch like my stel rims. I wonder if my mismached wheels will mess it up though. My car came with three four slot wheels and one eight slot wheel mounted and a severely bent 4 slot spare rim in the trunk. I hope the diference in slots dosnt matter to the covers when I get them.
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

82expghost

my mastercylender was the same, the new one should fix it, make sure you prime it good before you put it on, the voltage regulator is dirt cheap, mine went out and did the same thing but it got my alternator, 12 for the regulator and like 20 bucks for the new alternator, easy to replace too
98 taurtus, now in heaven
82 exp, the race car, cancer took it away
77 pinto, weekend warrior
92 grand marquis, daily

75bobcatv6

the only thing i can think of is that one of the lines has a plug in it. my bobcat sat for a looong loong time and when we did the bleed it was plugged up in the line a lil bit.

78wagondriver

  Well I made some progress and encountered some setbacks and a major scare today. Over the last few days Ive been making the interior nice and cleaning the car. I've put in home made door panels of carpet covered fiberboard and installed a pioneer 6.5 round speaker in each door. Ive also put seatcovers on and made a spare tire well cover out of carpet covered plywood. the ALT light seems to be a false alarm just like the ENG light. I cant trust any thing on that instrument cluster. The fuel gauge reads pegged high occasionally and the speedometer reads 80 when I'm doing 65 by GPS. I guess I need to calibrate some gears on the speedo because someone may have done a rear end swap for a diff that's geared lower or something. The issues with the instrument cluster are of no concern other than the one light that has never came in was the BRAKE light. It scared and surprised me a little when the pedal hit the floor exiting the freeway at 65 mph. Ive been in situations similar to this at least a couple times before. I tried pumping the pedal quick but got nothing so I just pumped some more while pulling the parking lever all the way. This slowed me to around 30 by the time it was time to turn right at the light at the end of the offramp. The light was red, but fortunately no one was coming from the left so I didn't have to run off the road. I made my turn slowed down some more and made my my next three turns to my parking spot. I should have figured this would happen. The pedals been spongy since I got it. Bleeding the brakes helps for a day or two. When I checked my reservoir after stopping today it was completely topped off. I have a brake booster on my car, I'm not sure if it came stock or was added on later though. After bleeding today the pedal feels firm when not assisted by engine but it can still be pushed nearly to floor by foot. With engine running the brakes travel two thirds to floor with no resistance then barely manage to stop the car when nearly pedal to the metal. I figured it must be a bad master cylinder since there's no sign of a leak. I went ahead and ordered a new one for 17$ to pick up tomorrow. The only other things I can think of is maybe the rod connecting to the pedal is missadjusted. Has anyone else ever had a problem like this? I guess I'll be taking the truck to work till I get this settled.
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

D.R.Ball

Most if not all of the brake hardware for the rear drums comes as a complete kit called a brake hardware kit, Rockauto.com is going to be your new best friend.(At least it's MY best friend!) Check to set if the rear drum has any gouges on the inside and either have it turned down or replace it. The wagons BTW never had the same issues as the hatchback and sedans had with the gas tank issues because the gas tank is futher away from the rear diff cover in case the tank broke lose in a wreck.The front end should be rebuilt and or updated see Rockauto or Summit for the new bushing kits etc or you can use new rubber bushings also Springs and things has allot of the bushing front to back as well. The wagon should with a good tuned up engine should get better than 15-20 MPG the carb might need adjustment(mine needs it again)the E.P.A. rated the 1976 2.3 M.P.G. as getting 36 M.P.G. highway so it can do better than 20 easy...The weather seals and other gaskets are either on eBay or Steel Rubber of which sells good stuff.. You can change the alternator but why bother it should be a 70 Amp and that's just fine for normal use, one thing replace all of battery cables if you start having charging issues because the under hood heat wrecks them pretty quick IE 18 months for my first set.Do not forget about the cable going from the starter solenoid and the starter as well.These cars will last and are easy to keep running and if something breaks the pasts are pretty commom IE the parts interchange with other years and models of other Fords mostly especially the 2.3 engine parts.

Pangra74

The pulley-like piece is part of the rear brake self-adjusters. Typical Ford self adjusters. The brakes will work without it ok, but will gradually go out of adjustment and your brake pedal will be lower under pressure (closer to the floor)
1974 Orange Runabout
1974 soon to be Cruisin' Wagon

78wagondriver

Thanks for the replys. I had it on a lift to reseal the diferential and inspect breaks the other day. I looked at the suspension, but I dont know too much about that stuff yet... where the spindle meets the uper and lower controll arms has new bushings, but every other piece of rubber in there is cracked and old looking. I was told the shocks were new and they do look clean but the front driver seems to be loose or somthing as it makes a ratling noise if I lift and push bown on front bumper. I will replace both front shocks soon. the car tends to hold its lane when I release the wheell at 60 mph and the tires arent showing abnormal wear so Illl get an alignment after I get my bushings replaced.
  I got my door striker bolts for 20 bucks today they make the doors close tight as the lockwork on a gun. Now if I just had weather seals...
When I checked out my breaks I found the source of a shrieking noise. My rear driver side had a spring break off inside the drum. This sring conects a non-moving pulley like piec to the shoe. The pulley like piece had a cable conected to the anchoe bolt running through it. I dindnt have new hardware so I just toook the loose pieces out. Im guesing the broken stuff was for the parking break. My rotors have a bit of a lip on the outer edge from probably never being lathed in 34 years. the pads and shoes have lots of material on them and stop the car fine so I can put these fixes off for a while.
   Today my ALT light came in solid.I hooked a cheap digital multimeter to the batery and ran some tests. The battery voltace was 13.1 with engine off and 14.3 at idle. Volage at batery teminals droped to 5-9 volts when going from idle to aroond 2000 rpm then restabilized at 14.5 for the few seconds I ran it at around 2-3 thousand I don have a tach so Im just going by ear. It seams the voltage regulator isn't working right in the rpm ranges I typicaly operate in.
  This might be due to washing the car yesteday. If I wrecked the regulator I think I will just wire in a modern integrated altinator if they make one that fits.
   
78 pinto wagon
80 silverado big ten
81 malibu sedan
92 cougar
92 siera 2500

Pangra74

Also the doors should have a plastic insert on the striker that sticks out from the door post. If it is just metal with no plastic around it, that's why the doors are loose and won't close tight. You can get those door strikers at Kragen or other part stores, a standard Ford part. It just unscrews from the door post, BUT be careful as there is a nut inside the quarter panel that's held in a metal cage that sometimes breaks off if rusty and falls down inside the quarter panel. You have to get the trim panel off to fish it out or hold it in place to re-attach the door striker.


Joe
1974 Orange Runabout
1974 soon to be Cruisin' Wagon

82expghost

front end bushings ball joints and tie rods and sounds like you need an alignment and rag joint needs replaced, shocks , it sounds like you got a car with 1.6 billion miles out of it, cool car thoe isnt it haha, watch out for people speeding because their air coming off of their car will send you into the next lane. rear end hopping is from not enough shock, or you have a midget hanging on one of your wheels, the engine shaking can be tuned out probibly, but dont expect a inline 6 pur
98 taurtus, now in heaven
82 exp, the race car, cancer took it away
77 pinto, weekend warrior
92 grand marquis, daily

78wagondriver

  I bought this Little car as a temporary beater but its grown on me and I want to fix it to daily driver level. I wrecked my ranger a few months ago and needed a ride until deployment. I figured spending 600$ on a beater was smarter than spending the same on a rental. After searching Craig's list for a while looking for something running, tagged and in budget this is all I found. I had heard the stories about Pintos cathing fire and done research into the matter a long time ago out of curiosity, so I figured if would be safe enough. I'm glad I went ahead and got it.
  There are lots of issues with her and shes right terrifying above 70 mph, but I have gotten to work and back around the times. that's about four hundred miles. here a summery of the good and bad of my car.
Good:gets me .a-.b, averages around15-20mpg...that might be bad for a four banger but its better than I expect of a car this old. I can park in ridiculously small spaces, lots of cargo room, fun to drive in a frightening sort of way.Engine starts easily enough. window glass if flawless. doesn't burn oil or leak water. came with four new tires.
Bad:doors are so loose I can put my pinkie through the cracks had to put a rag on the latch posts to stop the rattling. differential was leaking but I think I have that fixed with new silicon gasket now. manual rack and pinion steering sends shock waves though my hands on pavement irregularities...kind of like a go karts wheel feels on off road. Car dose take some time to get to 60mph, Around 70 a combination of steering shudder and rear end hop and side to side movement makes for a scary ride...I haven't seen if it can go faster than 73. at idle the engine shakes enough to make rear view mirror shake fiercer than any sub woofer, glovebow and steering wheel can be seen shaking, steering wheel has around a quarter of an inch excursion in its shaking. I have checked to see if it was something obvious like swapped plug wires. lots of minor/cosmetic issues that don't worry me like the engine tremors or high speed handling.
   I believe this car can be made into a good daily or at least backup river with some work. Ive got it to where its not leaking fluids and the breaks function properly so now I just need to work on drivability issues
Questions for any one who would please answer:
is this much shaking normal or harmful for a 2.3L engine?
Should steering wheal jerk and shake on every dimple in the road at freeway speeds? Ive never driven non powered steering or anything this small before so I don't know if this is normal.
Is rear end hop and side jumps normal for these cars above 65mph?
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