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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Brake problem, 78 Pinto

Started by 74WagonMeadowGreen, January 15, 2012, 08:53:00 PM

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74WagonMeadowGreen

Finally, new booster and master cylinder installed, and the brakes are fantastic, and no motor stalling when cold! The new booster is excellent, as is the new master cylinder. Thanks to all for comments and suggestions!

74WagonMeadowGreen

I installed the new master cylinder/booster setup, and bench bled the master cylinder first. Except for Ford locating the booster nuts in the least accesible places for any tool to reach, all was straightforward, and I (hopefully) completed the bleeding. BUT... I pulled the rear wheel to find a load of oil sprayed on the wheel insides on both rear wheels... my new seals are both pouring oil out after only a couple months...

I started a new posting now called REAR SEAL DILEMMA, 1978

74WagonMeadowGreen

We had our news-making, record-breaking 24-36 inches of snow two days ago, followed by a second snowstorm and temps down to single digits this morning. My poor 78 is somewhat buried (but covered!!) and that nice, new booster/Mastercyl package waiting inside for transplant as soon as all melts and gets warm enough to tackle it. I will attempt to "bench bleed" it and then install the package and rebleed it. I am fairly confident it will solve my brake issues. I will give an update when the weather permits!!

ToniJ1960


D.R.Ball

You might have disconnected a vac line...There is not alot of room to work with back there.

flash041

I just put in the booster/master from Oreilly yesterday.My brakes worked fine , but had a vac leak causing rough idle.
1978 Pinto Cruising wagon (I am the original owner ! ) Built Aug 15th 1977 in NJ
1993 Mustang LX 2.3 convertible

D.R.Ball

Is the car making any noise when you apply the brakes  ( whoose sound) ? For $101 plus shipping I'd change both out and be done with it. BTW according to the Ford Manual the check valve is not serviceable IE replacement of the valve will not fix the booster.

RSM

At that price it would be a very good idea to change it out. Like I said early on...sounds like a booster issue. It's entirely possible it's leaking with the brake pedal applied.

74WagonMeadowGreen

A combination of circumstances has urged me to order a rather nice package at a fair price I would like to pass on to Pinto drivers:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/503205.oap?ck=Search_50-3205_-1_-1&keyword=50-3205

It is a master cylinder AND power booster package for approx. $101. At this price, I would be foolish not to just replace mine as a unit, turn my old ones in as cores to rebuild, and likely solve my brake problem. Since my booster is original from 1978, it is likely that problems with the internal diaphragms may be causing my problems.

BTW- I have been driving my Pinto more, and even when warmed up, although it doesn't kill the motor, if you hold the brake pedal at a light it makes an audible vacuum sound and labors the motor. It seems evident that SOMETHING is assuredly wrong with the booster, and I think this should solve it. I will report back when all is done to describe whether I am right or wrong. Before I call things good, I WILL test vacuum, and make certain there are no leaks or obstructions.

ToniJ1960

 Try to get readings during and after the time its giving trouble :)

74WagonMeadowGreen

UPDATE: I checked, tested and flushed my check valve, and find no problems with it at all. It functions perfectly, does not stick or leak.
I tried the several tests for the booster, and so far have found no apparent faults. It passed every test so far. I borrowed a vacuum gauge and will test my manifold vacuum as soon as our 100mph+ winds settle down!

74WagonMeadowGreen

I found this on another "help" site... it sounds possible:

"Issue is moisture getting into the check valve in the line between the brake booster and the manifold. Unfortunately, in really cold weather you have condensation when the car cools down, and if the condensation happens in the line/valve and freezes, the valve can't move.

My solution was to remove the line, and run WD-40 thru it to remove the water. Blow the excess out, and re-install the line. Make sure you get the line back in the right orientation, or you really won't have any brake boost.

A new line/valve likely won't fix the issue, unless the orientation of the valve is different and no longer subject to water pooling at the valve and freezing.

Also, under conditions that will likely show the condition (really cold times after the vehicle has been sitting outside for a number of hours), I make sure that before I start rolling down the street, I've tried the brakes a couple times. If it is frozen, you can usually get it moving again by multiple hard applications of the brake pedal. Once it's free, I haven't had it stick again for that trip. I make sure they work before I drive off.

Its frightening the first time it happens, but once you realize what it is, you can deal with it. You don't loose braking capabilty. Only power brake boost."

74WagonMeadowGreen

Sound advice, again, thank you for the input. Funny you mention about the M/C, as I was just pondering the booster's removal, and I have a rebuild kit for the master cylinder anyway, and if I have to remove it, thus rebleed it all regardless, that is a great excuse for an overhaul or replacement. The booster is unfortunately the more expensive item... and no way around that! I will make all the tests first, as time and weather permit. Thank you!

D.R.Ball

Sounds like the brake booster. You can find them online or in store. If you buy a new one save your money and buy the booster and the master cylinder. When you change the booster and master cylinder be very careful about the break lines or you will have to replace those as well. Also you have to separate the M/C from the booster because it will not fit as a unit.And one final note when you remove the brake light switch do not lose the pedal bushing they are hard to find separately online.You can buy a new brake light switch with the bushing though.

74WagonMeadowGreen

Thank you, that sounds like an excellent direction. It is supposed to warm up from single digits this morning to the 50s over the next several days, so I will borrow my Dad's vacuum gauge and take a reading. I will also perform the other indicated booster tests according to the manual and see how it all plays out. I will keep you posted. Again, the suggestions are all welcome!

RSM

Sounds like you have a booster issue. What you described points right to it. I would take a look at the check valve and check and see how much vacuum you have. Sounds to me that vacuum is more the issue. Usually if a booster is bad it's bad all the time....usually. To me it sounds like you have no vacuum to the booster after start up then over time it becomes enough to operate the brakes correctly. Let us know what you find.

74WagonMeadowGreen

I did change the bulb today, and it was not only inaccessible but required disconnecting the speedo cable (a royal pain), and pulling the cluster out far enough to access the bulb holders. This job is MUCH easier on a 74. I am surprised that as identical as the dash looks, just how much changed behind. Regardless, I managed to get the bulb working fine. The brake bulb now comes on with all the dash lights, and goes off unless the emergency is pulled. It has NOT come on under any other circumstances. I will try to outline my problem a little more clearly. All the brake fluid was replaced with fresh after I rebuilt both rear wheel cylinders. I also adjusted them to the correct position when all was back together, so adjustment is not an issue. When the car is started (and with the winter lately, in very cold weather) and one backs out and you push on the brake pedal, it is as if the booster is not assisting, the pedal is rock-hard, and will slow the car, but it takes much effort. Add to that if you continue pushing, it could stall the motor. As the car warms up, and this is not a gradual transition, the brakes suddenly require virtually no effort and seem to work absolutely perfectly, and for the duration of the drive. I did discover a small amount of fluid seepage on the bottom of the master cylinder, but after driving today discovered my cap gasket leaks miserably, so a new one is forthcoming. So... the brake warning light appears to be operating correctly, and is NOT indicating any malfunction with the proportioning valve, not that it would necessarily, but thus far, only the warning light is corrected. I will next do all the book tests on the booster, to determine its viability.

ToniJ1960

 I hope hes changing that light bulb :)

RSM

Wouldn't it be nice if diagnosing a brake problem was easy?...lol I've ran into so many different brake issues over the years I could almost write a book. Hopefully we hear back from 74WMG soon and see if he has come up with anything.

ToniJ1960

 Youre right theres a lot of questions in this question.

I would ask if the back brakes were adjusted out good, I know they self adjust ( I was told when you back up and put the brakes on, and to do this over and over to get them adjusted). But I think using a brake spon is the best way get them tight then adjust them out until they just barely quit dragging. I was told by a guy at Midas once,with rwd 80% of the stopping comes from the back brakes and with fwd 80% from the front brakes. If its true, maybe youre front brakes are coming on before the back ones?
The h valve Im pretty sure is a pressure differential valve. So if the pressure on one side (front) is different than the pressure on the other side (rear) theres a little metal ball that gets pushed over and closes a contact to light the brake light. So if your brake light bulb is bad its probably a good idea to replace it,and see if its coming on when this problem occurs. You can check that brake light pretty easy without removing the cluster.

I remember having this problem with y first Pinto wagon I owned back in 1981 but I seriously cant remember what was done to correct it. I know I had to replace the wheel cylinders for some reason at some time and the rear brake hose. I wouldnt rule them out or the master cylinder.

RSM

When you say the brakes don't work when it's cold, is the pedal hard to push or does it feel like a normal pedal and the car just won't stop? Does the pedal go to the floor? Once it warms up how does the pedal feel? Something you might want to test is the check valve on the booster. Sounds maybe like it's not working quite right. Have you checked the vacuum to the booster to make sure you have full vacuum? This is something that comes to mind as a starting point when diagnosing this.

74WagonMeadowGreen

I have gotten my 78 Pinto past emissions, and have plates. Finally. Much has been sorted out and it is running well, but one nagging problem remains. When the car is cold, and first fires up, if you pull out and hit the brakes (power), it is very hard to get the car to stop... it acts like the booster is trying but not succeeding.  Backing my story up a few months, when I overhauled the rear wheel cylinders I fully bled the system, and everything seemed to work fine, but then I read about having to "set" the diverter valve. According to the book, you turn on ignition (not running the car, just idiot lights on) and press down on the brakes until the brake light on the dash goes off. Uh oh, my brake light does not come on! Is it the bulb, or is the diverter shot? Could that be the problem? I fully intend to follow the book procedures to test the booster, as I have no evidence of a problem with the master cylinder. When the car warms up, magically, the brakes work great, and will stop on a proverbial dime with no effort.
I DID replace the original 1978 hose to the intake manifold, and discovered the booster was still holding pressure after days of sitting. I could be wrong, but the booster seems to be trying very hard (when you push hard on the brakes you can nearly kill the motor, partly because I need to adjust my choke idle setting up) then after a few minutes running it all straightens out. Right now, my gut is pointing to the diverter valve being a problem, but until I check and verify the booster, I cannot be sure, and I really don't want to pull the dash to check the bulb (I have done it before... not as bad as other cars, but not fun, especially undoing the brittle speedo cable connector)... any ideas?