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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

77 cruising wagon rebuild

Started by Jef_Leppard, February 03, 2011, 09:43:58 AM

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r4pinto

I can't look at my car as it just went to the body shop last night, but I think there is only one way the wires will hook up. The nest thing zi can think is to take a volt meter to the battery with the car running. You should be seeing around 13.5 to 14.2 volts. If you dont have a meter most places have them for around 10 bux or so & that is a vital tool you will use over & over when working on your car.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Jef_Leppard

Timing issues aside, can anybody tell me the correct way the wiring harness attaches to the alternator?
I have the thicker wire where is is supposed to go but the two smaller wires with the black and the orange connectors I am unsure about. The manual is no help, it just basically says "pay attention to where they go before removing them" .. well I didn't.  My alt meter is motionless. Worried that I'm probably not getting charge to the battery...

dave1957

 it will all be worth the time and hassle when you get to go for a drive... Good luck!!!!  :)
1979 bobcat
1974 red stinkbug
1979 orange pinto sedan aka project turbo hack
1979 orange pinto all glass hatch 52k

Jef_Leppard

Yeah, there is gas on the plugs. This previous owner had installed a rather oversized Holley carb on it. It is tweaked down as lean as it could go but it is definitely a big carb for the engine.

r4pinto

It sounds like you are on the right track. I would go ahead & rotate the distributor to see if that helps fire the car. since it is now sputtering like it wants to start.

Just a thought, but have you pulled the plugs to see if they are wet with gas? If so that could also be causing a starting issue. One word of advice.. once you get her started check the oil. If it smells like gas change it. All the pumping & failed attempts to start may have washed the oil down with gas, which is never good.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Jef_Leppard

I think we're on the right track with the timing.  I rechecked the distributor at TDC and the rotor was almost 90 degrees off!  I reinstalled the distributor and now I get a steady sputtering as I crank, which I wasn't getting before.... The engine seems just on the verge of firing up.
Hopefully its just a matter of finding the perfect spot for the distributor? 


dave1987

I'm with dave. I've had times where I have removed my distributor and the car refused to crank. I have to pull the distributor, rotate it 1/4 or 1/2 way around and then reinstall it. Eventually I get it right.

I had an issue with my 73 wagon's 2.0 distributor which I just recently changed out. The car refused to start, but rotating the distributor 1/8 of a turn and then cranking the motor again, I got closer and closer to where I needed to be, eventually after much trial and error I got the distributor set right and it turned right over!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1957

 here is my idea.. Mark you plug wires.. Remove them and rotate them on the dist. Clockwise one spot try this  at least twice to see if the dist is off.. Not the cam timing
1979 bobcat
1974 red stinkbug
1979 orange pinto sedan aka project turbo hack
1979 orange pinto all glass hatch 52k

Jef_Leppard

Even though I was feeling confident that I had the cam timing correct, I did try rotating it 180 to see if I was wrong.  Still the same.

Jef_Leppard

I set the timing by lining up markings on the gears for the crank and the cam with pointers inside the timing box.... Maybe I'm not sure what you're meaning by 180 degrees but if that were the case, wouldn't that mean a mark on one of the gears would be on the opposite side from the pointer?
Maybe I need to take some photos of some of this stuff....

75bobcatv6

jef I agree with phil and Dholversn, Check your timing. I had not thought about the timing being out.

phils toys

my first though is it is 180 out of time . each piston has 2 tdc on on intake and one for exhaust. if you had it on the exaust stroke it is 180 out of time  ie is very easy to mistake the strokes, but  the intake strok  usualy has a little more pressure. i have never tried on a fresh rebuild. maybe somene else can give you a better help on that.  good luck . when you get running will you be at carlisle?
2006, 07,08 ,10 Carlisle 3rd stock pinto 4 years same place
2007 PCCA East Regional Best Wagon
2008 CAHS Prom Coolest Ride
2011,2014 pinto stampede

dholvrsn

'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

Jef_Leppard

Yeah I'm def getting spark while cranking but it still will not even start. Sometimes i get a little sputter, other times crank and crank and nothing. This was my first try at rebuilding an engine. maybe something is wrong internally...

dave1957

 i had a similiar prob with my 74 a couple years ago.. I would only get spark when the ignition key was in the cranking position when i let off the key it would die.dont know if this will help but dont give up...  :)
1979 bobcat
1974 red stinkbug
1979 orange pinto sedan aka project turbo hack
1979 orange pinto all glass hatch 52k

Jef_Leppard

Crap. Still no luck.
I took off the timing cover to make sure again that the gears were where they were supposed to be.  Got everything back to TDC, distributor back to #1. Everything was where it was supposed to be all along.
I definitely have spark. I checked the cables with a timing light and visually checked the plugs for spark, that's all good.
If I pump the carb, I can see fuel squirt.
I'm at the limit of what I can think of to do here.

75bobcatv6

There are two terminals you can use to "crank" the engine at the starter solenoid on the firewall while having a plug undone and close to the block or somewhere you can reach while using an insulated screwdriver to terminate the two poles on the solenoid. if you see spark then the coil is good. if you were getting sputtering it could be that there is too much fuel getting into the motor. or Not enough.
another thing you can do is disconnect the fuel from the carb, and then crank the motor using the above technique and see if you are getting sufficient flow. if not you might have a blockage in the line. if you have fuel getting to the carb and it has not been rebuilt then it might be a good time for that. I just did mine a few days ago. hope any of this Info helps.

Jef_Leppard

I'm working alone here so testing for spark might be a little tricky. I did use some starting fluid in the beginning and was getting some sputtering though so it would seem like I am.

75bobcatv6


Jef_Leppard

Well it cranks and cranks and there is fuel at the carb but it won't turn over. Figured it wouldn't be easy...

sedandelivery

That is one neat and clean engine compartment!

Jef_Leppard

Holy crap I think it's done. So.......... turn the key??  I think I'm terrified! Four months of work, never did this before, so much that could go wrong.... Might need to do a couple shots and come back. Looks decent enough anyway....



thanks a lot for everyone's advice! Well.... here goes nothing!

Pintopower

About the high volume oil pump, they are also high pressure and require a larger bearing gap for the rods and crank so that the "float" on the pool of oil. Without that you will blow oil everwhere. That said, unless you are a master mechanic building a race engine, get the standard oil pump. You should pump 50 psi out of one. Get a good brand. Do not be cheap with engine rebuilds, pay good money for good parts. Do it once and drive it 200k. Also, get or rent a GOOD torque wrench. A $15 swap meet special is a good way to rebuild your motor a second time. Remember what I said about being cheep? Trust me, I have done everything you can imagine wrong. I sure know what not to do. Hope this helps. Here are some images of my 80 pinto engine build. 25k on the motor now, 122 RW HP and 34 MPG with an auto. All i did is balance everything to 0 grams, check all gaps, dyno tune engine and carb and now I have a completely reliable, non oil dripping or burning car.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26161002@N03/sets/72157605434443906/
I have many Pintos, I like them....
#1. 1979 Wagon V6 Restored
#2. 1977 Wagon V6 Restored
#3. 1980 Sedan I4 Original
#4. 1974 Pangra Wagon I4 Turbo
#5. 1980 Wagon I4 Restored
#6. 1976 Bobcat Squire Hatchback (Restoring)
...Like i said, I like them.
...and I have 4 Fiats.

Jef_Leppard

Quote from: TIGGER on May 03, 2011, 02:58:55 AM
Have you set the timing belt?  If you have already and you set the rotor under number one cylinder you should be ok.  You may have to play with the timing to get it to start and then you will have to time it once you get it running. 


You mean that the rotation of the distributor unit itself isn't important, as long as the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder on the cap to start?
I do have the rest of the engine at TDC and the timing belt is on.

Thanks for responding by the way. When I ask these engine 101 questions on here and days go by with no response I wonder "did I just ask the most ignorant thing ever?" haha Still learning this stuff.

TIGGER

Have you set the timing belt?  If you have already and you set the rotor under number one cylinder you should be ok.  You may have to play with the timing to get it to start and then you will have to time it once you get it running. 
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

Jef_Leppard

Well I am near the end! At the point of bolting everything back on. Been following the proceedure from the Haynes manual. There was a learning curve for sure for somebody with no experience but I found most of it pretty straightforward.
Only thing is, I did make (I think) a stupid mistake.
I was very careful photographing everything as I took it apart and made marks, etc. to help with reassembly BUT somehow I neglected to mark the position of the distributor.
It is somewhat visible in a couple of my photos but I don't have a definite reliable way to install the distributor and be sure it's in the exact position.
Or is this not as big a deal as I think it is? I'm worried about this...

lateniteauto

Jef,
  When it comes time for you to put it all back together, I strongly agree that a torque wrench is needed.  Esp if you are kinda green in this area.  Good news is you don't have to be able to afford one to use one.  AutoZone (and other parts stores) have a SPECIALTY TOOL RENTAL PROGRAM.  You just pay a deposit up front, and get the money back when you return the tool.  A torgue wrench is always available at my local AutoZone.  Great way to do it right, cheap.  Just my 2 cents.

Here is a list of bolts that I would never tighten without a torque wrench. (Anyone feel free to add to this list if I misssed any.)

HEAD BOLTS!!!!!!!!  For sure... every time.  In fact most newer vehicles require new head bolts, as they design them to stretch into shape with the propper torque.

PISOTN ROD BOLTS

MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS

CAMSHAFT PLATE BOLTS

CRANKSHAFT BOLT

FLYWHEEL/TORQUE CONVERTER BOLT  Very Important as this part applies all the power from engine to transmission

ANY ALLUMINUM PART  Timing covers, water pumps, bellhousings, and intake manifolds.  Because of the difference in strength between metals. Never over-torque alluminum.

OIL PUMP BOLTS

Farmboy

  When I did rebuild my 2.0 I took the pistons to a shop to have the pins removed, it was only 5 bucks apiece for removal and installation  on the new pistons. It was well worth the money.

  Got to love NAPA
  I do what the voices in my Pinto tell me to do




74 Pinto Wagon
71 Runabout (parts car)

Jef_Leppard

Thanks for the reply. 
Don't have access to a press, guess I'll have to take them somewhere and have them done for me...

TIGGER

Quote from: Jef_Leppard on March 14, 2011, 10:59:44 AM
Okay, I'm back with another newb question.

What's the preferred method of removing the large pin from the connecting rod to the piston?

Looking like it requires a specialized tool or shop equipment I don't own, unless I'm missing something...

You are going to want to use a hydraulic press to press out the piston pins.
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)