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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Missfiring under load - 74 wagon

Started by pintoguy76, December 12, 2007, 07:12:23 PM

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pintoguy76

Wow. And i was just guessing at the gap, too. I'd really like to get rid of these points tho, and go to an MSD 6a ignition. Msd says you can use the points distributor to activate the msd and also says you still wont have to ever regap the points again. But i dont buy that. If there is any energy going thru the points at all they are going to wear. I have a spare DS II distributor that id use. Along with the plug in adaptor for a clean neat installation.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

High_Horse

PintoGuy76,
     I was not against the ignition change. It just didn't apply to that troubleshoot. As it was you found the problem and all is well. Also, I must appologize for saying that your point gap should be .020. The book says between .023-.027 and .025 lands right in the middle.


                                                                                                                          High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

pintoguy76

Oh what about the msd? Not a good idea? I figured with the DSII distributor and an MSD that id have a better ignition system that didnt need to be played with all the time.

I did leave the point gap at .025. But im sure I need to reset it. I didnt know what the gap was supposed to be (its on the emissions sticker on the valve cover tho i think) so i just set it at something i knew would be close. Also I played with the timing a little but didnt set it with a light. It starts easy and doesnt spark knock. I dont have the timing cover on, which has the pointer on it so i couldnt set it dead on. I'll put it back on and then reset everything. Its running great for now tho and i'm preparing for a snow storm so i'll leave it be until the snow is over.  This car isnt the best for use in the snow tho, those 3.55 gears make it easy to break the tires loose. lol. I probably should drive the other one but, its crankier in the cold, and the heat doesnt work as well, so you can guess what i'll be driving anyways :D lol.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

High_Horse

PintoGuy76,
      It was the MSD Ignition. And did you leave the point gap at .025????????? It should be 20 max. and did you retime the car after the pointgap change????? Changing the point gap will change the timing.

                                                                                                                          High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

pintoguy76

Thanks :D I was only daydreaming about changing to an internally regulated alternator. Id like to, but i dont have the time or money to mess with that right now. The external regulated system works just fine so i'll probably just leave it alone. :)
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

High_Horse

PintoGuy76,
       Good job!!! You kinda scared me there for a while but you hit that nail on the head. Happy Pinto motoring.

                                                                                                                      High_Horse

                                                                                         
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

pintoguy76

It was indeed the voltage regulator. $35 later it is fixed. Now my tester shows 13 volts, and the reading is exactly the same on all 3 of my pintos. Its probably a little higher than that, as i am sure they're supposed to put out more than 13v and i cant i magine them all 3 having slightly low voltage, and being the same... :) No more missfiring, dim lights, slow wipers (tho today it hasnt rained thank god) or slow fan. Blinkers are all working again, etc etc. Its  crazy how that little box can make such a huge difference.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

pintoguy76

Id like to use a one wire alternator, internally regulated, but not sure how youd wire that up. There are several wires that run inside the car somewhere, if i changed it over id have to clean that crap out and i dont know how hard that would be, or what id have to keep or how to wire it up. I think i know what alternator you are referring to tho. It has three wires. The + field terminal ("BAT") and a plug with a white and a red wire. The red one just simply crosses into the wire from the BAT terminal, and the white one i assume goes  to the guage, but i think there are two guage wires, where does the other one go? Doesnt matter really i guess i dont think ill be doing this right now but its something to think about. Sure would be nice to get rid of some unneeded wires and have some extra juice too. I am thinking about stepping up to an alternator from an AC car (it puts out like 20 more amps) as long as it would all hook up the same. I cant see 20 extra amps being harmful :D
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

77turbopinto

Quote from: Blacksheep22 on December 12, 2007, 09:43:17 PM
At the risk of being banned here!  :surprised:  I said the !@!#$#^% with the stock alternator and regulator on my 73 and put an CHEVY alternator on it! I had to slot the upper bracket to bend it down and rewelded it and made a spacer so it fit tight in the stock lower bracket and it works WONDERFUL! Had to put 2 of the regulator wires to the other 2 of the 4 original wires but with the load sensor capability and everything built in one package I love it. If anyone is interested in it i can draw up a diagram of what wire goes where but it worth the effort not to have to hassle with all that junk anymore. 14.5 unless I have EVERYTHING wide open and thats with the amp and all running it puts out 12 or so. Just for the record its a Chevrolet Delco 10-SI used in the mid 70's to mid 80's. DONT HATE ME GUYS!  :(

Hey, I have GM calipers and hoses on my Pinto and no-one gives me a hard time.
(except Tony)

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Blacksheep22

At the risk of being banned here!  :surprised:  I said the !@!#$#^% with the stock alternator and regulator on my 73 and put an CHEVY alternator on it! I had to slot the upper bracket to bend it down and rewelded it and made a spacer so it fit tight in the stock lower bracket and it works WONDERFUL! Had to put 2 of the regulator wires to the other 2 of the 4 original wires but with the load sensor capability and everything built in one package I love it. If anyone is interested in it i can draw up a diagram of what wire goes where but it worth the effort not to have to hassle with all that junk anymore. 14.5 unless I have EVERYTHING wide open and thats with the amp and all running it puts out 12 or so. Just for the record its a Chevrolet Delco 10-SI used in the mid 70's to mid 80's. DONT HATE ME GUYS!  :(
71 Pinto Mini-Stock 1994 Track Champion
72 Pinto all original 63000
73 Pinto Wagon 2.0  4 Speed 8inch

r4pinto

Quote from: Pintony on December 12, 2007, 07:45:26 PM
Hello R4
     your misfire was caused by lack of electrical energy. Not the regulator...
The regulator was the reason for the lack of electrical energy.

I know that. The bad regulator was the cause, & the misfiring was the effect.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

pintoguy76

Ya i agree. Sounds like ive got the same problem tho tony.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

Pintony

Hello R4
     your misfire was caused by lack of electrical energy. Not the regulator...
The regulator was the reason for the lack of electrical energy.

r4pinto

Sounds like the voltage regulator to me. I had a similar problem on a 78 I used to have. It ws misfiring very badly when I was driving home from work & when i got home I shut the car off, only to have it not start again. recharged the battery & replaced the regulator & had no problems again.  I would recommend checking the wiring for the regulator. If a wire's loose it can cause similar problems.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

pintoguy76

I'm pretty sure ive already got this problem figured out but figured id ask if this sounds correct. My best friend drives my wagon everyday to work. On the way in, the car started missfiring real bad. I took him to work, took the car home, and put new points in it, gapped them at .025, put it back together and the problem was gone. I proceeded to go to work later on in the car, and it was fine most of the time. Except a couple of times when i put my foot to the floor it would missfire again. I figured it was a timing issue and that id deal with it later. Well later on when i went to pick up my friend from work, it started doing it again. Its been raining alot the last few days almost constant, and cold, and now at this point it is dark. The headlights are on, the wipers are on, and the heater fan is on. Slowly but surly the lights get dimmer, the wipers work slower, and the fan gets slower. I turn the fan off knowing now that there is an electrical issue. The missfiring is alot worse, it idled fine but if it revved much over idle it missfired again. When i got there i picked him up and we went to oreillys. The alternator tested 7.8 volts on its output.  Took the batter out and had it tested and charged. It tested good and so i had him charge it while i tested a spare alternator i had in the car from a parts car (i noticed an electrical issue earlier and changed the alternator out with one that i thought was good, which is the one that tested bad. The "spare" one in the car was the one i took off earlier) The spare on tested good, at 14.5 volts. But on the car (my POS tester) showed only like 8-10 volts output. Thats why i changed it. And the alternator i put on it showed more than that after i changed it. So it kinda sounds like my tester is junk. Anyways, i suspect the voltage regulator is the issue. I put the original alternator back on it and tried another tester and it shows that its only putting out a little over 10 volts. No matter how much i rev it up or anything else, it shows the same 10.XX volt reading. This same tester tests point dwell and RPMs from under the hood. It seemed right so i dont question the tester. Had the same problems again today. It was fine all the way home last night since the battery was fully charged before i left the parts store. (took about an hour). Then i jump in it today and it missfired at idle until it warmed up. then i took it out and drove it and it would once again missfire on hard throttle. Do i have more than one problem, or does it sound like the voltage regulator to you guys too? Its a 2.3 with points. An MSD with a stock 2.3 electronic distributor is sounding awfully good right now. :D;D They make an adaptor  (msd to DS-II) too so i can just plug it right in and not have to splice and connect. Points would be gone that way. Still have to fix the voltage problem tho. I think the alternator is outputting enough to keep the car going under normal conditions, but not with the headlights on, wipers on, radio on, and blower motor on. It was so bad last night that the turn signals wouldnt even work. Its a wonder how it ran at all, tho it was just barly running. lol.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E