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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Rear Discs for 8"

Started by douglasskemp, December 06, 2007, 09:29:32 PM

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douglasskemp

One more note...

At the www.ultrastang.com site, click on the "news" icon with the blue
68 hardtop. Scroll down to the link on master cylinder and brake
boosters. This is where you can see the pictures of combination of
boosters, master cylinders, proportioning valves, brake pedal mods,
etc. Very informative!
The Pinto I had I gave to my brother. The car was originally my mom's, (78 red Pinto sedan with a 2.3 and a 4spd.) I am originally from Tucson, AZ but moved to Oxnard CA :D
I'm looking for a Pinto wagon with an automatic.

douglasskemp

...Conclusion...

17. O.K. this is the last fabrication, I promise. Now take your
stock old Mustang e-brake cables off, from the bracket under the driver's side
footwell all way to the previous drums. That bracket, where the
Mustang e-brakes adjusted, needs to have a steel holder for the end of the
cable because we are converting to one cable for both rears instead of the
two cables, one for each side, of the stock configuration.

I used a strong steel collar about 1/2" OD and 3/16" ID. Something
like a few nuts put together would work as well. Then I welded it to the
bottom of the bracket. The e-brake end goes through there (after
cutting off the swedged end), and then you'll add a bolt on or crimped
cable end. This allows the stock Mustang adjuster to adjust this new
setup. BTW, cutting e-brake cable is not as easy as it might seem.
You can clamp it in some vise grips, and hack saw it, or cut it with the
cut off tool, these are hardened steel cables. Wire cutters will not cut
them!

18. Once you've gotten these parts fabricated and painted, stick
them on, and this is how it goes: The passenger side cable should wrap around
behind the axle, mounted there somehow, and make a sweeping bend and the
end of the outer part (cable cover) should be clicked into the bracket that is
welded to the fuel line cover (in front of the driver's side axle
leaf spring mount). The steel cable comes out of that and joins the
driver's side cable and goes to the front adjuster. The steel cable goes through
the adjuster and after you pull it as tight as humanly possible, put on
the cable end (I used two bolt on types, just to be sure). The adjuster
should be all the way out when you do this so you can tighten it.

19. Now it's show time! Put the disk mounting brackets on, put the
axles with the new studs in (making sure to get some grease on those new
seals if you put them on!), and put the machined spacer carefully over the
axle between the retaining plate and the axle bearing. This is a
little tricky, but if you made the spacer from the bearing, it will fit
perfectly and hold itself into place while you get the retaining
plate bolted up.

20. Put the rotor hat over the axles. Note that the center hole of
the disk doesn't quite fit the stock axle hub. It's a little too large
to be properly centered by the stock 8" 28 spline axle hubs, but I don't
feel much, if any vibration from this problem. Later I may get the
axles turned and have them machine a spacer to properly center the
rotor. This is what should be done.

21. Put the calipers, loaded with the brake pads in, and bolt them
up to the disk brake mounting bracket. Now attach the hoses.

22. Tighten up the e-brake until the steel cable between the
adjuster and mount isn't saggy. Then turn the rotors with and without the e-
brake on and check for e-brake operation. Make sure the e-brakes don't drag!
There are adjusters in the e-brakes (mentioned earlier), so you can adjust them
for side to side brake balancing, but I'd adjust the cable as the main
adjustment.

22. Now we must rid the car of any residual pressure valve. Loosen
the rear brake line at the master cylinder and pull it out, making sure
not to drop brake fluid on your paint. Use a screw to screw into the brass
flange in the master cylinder and pull the flange out. Remove the check
valve if one exists. If you are using the Granada swap, with the front disk
brakes for the Granada, you'll need to get rid of the stock proportioning
valve and plumb in an adjustable Wilwood or similar unit in the rear brake
line. I haven't done this yet, but it's necessary because the brakes will
drag if there is any residual pressure valve in the system (disk brakes
should not have any residual pressure valve). I know, I'm glossing over some
things here, but this part has a lot of variables. I plan on using the
stock disk/drum master cylinder from the '68 with the residual pressure
valve pulled out of the rear brake side of the master cylinder with an
adjustable proportioning valve mounted just under the dash inside the
car. This will allow easier adjustment for brake proportioning.

23. Bleed the brake system, making sure to keep the shuttle valve
centered (if you still have one in the car). There are tools for this
purpose. If you don't care about your brake light being on, don't worry about the
shuttle valve.

24. Test the brake operation with the car up and a friend pressing
on the brakes. When satisfied, put the wheels on and test the system for
leaks and e-brake operation. Then take a test drive and feel the benefits!

Added note: After doing this, I noticed some drag from the rear
brakes. I thought it was some residual pressure valve but it turned out to be
the emergency brakes. After a while, it went away (as the shoes were
worn I suppose). The e-brakes still don't work well, but I think if
someone were to convert to a foot type e-brake, like from the later
model (>'71?) Mustangs, it would work much better. A pull out e-
brake lever, as the stock early Mustangs had, is a poor activator!
(>obviously in a Mustang II or Pinto, we have a different setup - Doug<)

As always, I offer this advice for the benefit of those who are like
me, and love to work on things like this yourselves. This information is as
complete as I know, however this is only a guide, and therefore the
user bears all responsibility for the use of this information. I do not
claim it to be complete or completely reliable. Use at your own risk, and be
careful! Brakes are safety devices and as such, should be built as
well as possible. Good luck!

Best Regards,
--KC
'68 five speed, four wheel disc Mustang
...

Anywho, have fun with the ideas this will spawn!
--Doug
The Pinto I had I gave to my brother. The car was originally my mom's, (78 red Pinto sedan with a 2.3 and a 4spd.) I am originally from Tucson, AZ but moved to Oxnard CA :D
I'm looking for a Pinto wagon with an automatic.

douglasskemp

...Continued...

4. Slide out the axles temporarily, making sure to be careful with
the axle seals (if you're not replacing them) and stuff a clean rag in
the housing end to seal the inside of the housing from the hacking
you'll do on the axle ends.

5. Cut off the lower part of the housing end so that it fits into
the new disk brake mounting brackets. The Crown Vic rear end has rectangular
ends, 8" and 9" housings have a circular end with the top side cut off.
Cut the bottom part off flat to match the top. This is heavy steel, so a
sawzall or other suitable cutter will be necessary. A right angle grinder will
work, but you'll be there for a _long_ time.

6. Test fit the disk brake mounting bracket on the axle. The bolt
holes line up!!!

7. Bolt on this mounting bracket temporarily and turn your
attention to working on the axles (that are already out of the car, right?!).

8. Pound or press the old studs out of the axles. They are probably
too short, since the rotors are about 1/8"-3/16" thicker than the
drums.

9. Press in the new studs with a press or a lot of washers piled up
with a nut to draw it through with an impact wrench (use oil on the threads
and everywhere). This is a pain staking task!

10. Now is the time to replace your wheel bearings and/or seals!

11. Slide in your axle temporarily and see how your axle retaining
plate (on your original Mustang axle, used to hold the axle onto the
flange) doesn't fit inside the new disk brake mounting bracket indention.
Cut off the lower part of the plate to make it rectangular too (just like the
axle flange) to fit.

12. Now we have a problem. Once you slide in the axle you might
notice that the wheel bearing is held between the rear end axle housing
inset and the retaining plate, but the retaining plate is not up against the
bearing on the outside, since the disk mounting bracket is thicker than the
drum backing plate. On my car, and probably most others, the new disk
brake mounting bracket is .130" thicker. That means we have to have some
spacer to put between the axle bearing and retaining plate or the wheels
will slide in and out .130" every time we take a corner.

Let me rephrase to make sure we're clear. The stock Mustang drums
are held on the axle by a piece of sheet metal that forms the back of the
drum brakes. The Crown Vic disks are held on to the axle by the disk
mounting bracket, and it's made of cast aluminum. The cast aluminum
is thicker than the sheet metal used for the drum brakes, so we'll have
to make up that .130" thickness difference by putting a spacer in there
to keep the bearing solidly wedged in between the axle retaining plate
and the bearing end (where the bearing is supposed to fit inside the
axle).

I made one the hard way by slicing the outer race of an old axle
bearing into .130" segments (one for each axle). This makes the spacer the
correct size and shape. Dimensions aren't that critical, but you don't want
the bearing to slide sideways, so some spacer must be made, and it's
best if the hole in the spacer doesn't interfere with the seal on the axle
bearing, so it must be thin, but relatively strong. To slice an old bearing, I
mounted the axle it was on (from another car) into my vise and used the
pneumatic cut off tool to cut around the bearing as it slowly rotated. This
way the thickness was relatively constant. I used calipers to double check
after finish grinding it on my wheel grinder. This takes a while (about 30
minutes of continuous cutting), because you are cutting a 3/16" thick
slice of incredibly hard, high grade steel (the bearing). The second slice
takes less time since the bearing isn't as thick in the middle of the race
as it was near the end. I slowed the bearing as I cut it with an old
shop rag. Beware, this usually results in the shop rag catching fire,
since the sparks hit the rag continuously. Be careful.

13. After the spacer is ground to .13" or very close, which is the
difference in thickness from the old backing plate to the new
mounting plate (and therefore, the measure of side bearing play), cut a slot in the
spacer so that it just barely slides over the axle between the bearing and
retaining plate. Or, if you got new axle bearings you could
just install the spacers in between the bearing and axle retaining
plate before you get the bearings pressed on. The notch is just so you can
put it there without taking the bearing off (which would destroy
them). If you used my method and cut the spacer from an old bearing, the
spacer will be easy to place as you slide the axle in the rear end housing
before you put the retaining plate on. Do not bolt the axle in
yet. In fact, take everything off after you have made a mental note of where
the calipers go on each side (they mount on the back side of the disk
towards the trunk on the drivers side, and towards the front of the
car on the passengers side. This was how it was on the Crown Vic, and
makes e-brake cable routing easier).

14. You'll need to fabricate some things here again. I used the
existing stock early Mustang brake lines to each side past the spring
perches, then tacked on a caliper hose bracket made from scrap steel
(with my MIG welder) to adapt to the late model caliper hoses. Yes,
you need rubber hoses so you adapt to the Crown Vic caliper hoses.
Why do you need rubber hoses between the brake calipers and the
rear axle you ask? Because there is some movement there in normal
operation as the single sided calipers slide to adjust for wear, and so
you can take off the calipers and replace the pads. You could clamp on
brackets for the hoses instead of welding if you use good clamping
techniques. The hose holder that connects to the brackets you just made
is included as part of the brake hose. You'll see when you get them.
After you have secured the fabricated brackets to the axle housing,
visually check the hose routing and location for clearance and lack of sharp
bends. Remember that the axle may be higher normally in relation to
the car if you didn't jack the car up by the axle. Make sure not to
block the upper e-brake adjuster slot on the disk brake mounting bracket!

15. Cut the existing hard brake lines and double flare with the new
flares to fit the rubber brake lines. Bolt in the caliper hoses. If you
didn't have enough hard brake line to work with (the stock rear end housing
brake lines are a little short on the passenger side), consider buying new
hard brake line and bending it with a tubing bender to fit.

16. Now stick on the disk brake mounting brackets and check out the
e-brake lines. They route like this: Drivers side e-brake goes straight off
the disk mounting bracket forward along the leaf springs to the middle of
the car. Passengers side e-brake line goes 90 degrees, across the axle
to the drivers side where it will make a gentle bend and go to meet the
other cable where they attach together just ahead of the driver's side leaf
spring perch. You'll need to fabricate two more things for the e-brakes.

First, a mount to hold up the passenger's side cable as it goes
across the axle. I tacked a bolt to the rear of the differential housing,
right in the center, and bolted a little hose holder to it.

Second, a bracket to mount the passenger's side cable about 2" behind
the fuel line crossover (on my '68, this is about 6" in front of the
leaf spring mount). This has to hold up to the force of the e-brake,
which is several hundred pounds. It holds the outer part of the cable so that
the actual steel cable inside slides in and out. I used a piece of 3/4"
square steel tubing about 2" long welded at 90 degrees to the fuel line
steel crossover cover (that three bolt thing in front of the spring
perch). I notched the tubing to fit across the bump in the cover, and welded an
end cap on the tubing with a hole to fit the end of the rubber part of
the cable. The cable end goes into this hole and the outer part is held
there while the inner part goes to the connection between the two e-brake
cables (the connection comes with the cable).

This is more easily shown in a picture which I will send or place on
a website when I have one available (volunteers? ).

...To Be Continued...
The Pinto I had I gave to my brother. The car was originally my mom's, (78 red Pinto sedan with a 2.3 and a 4spd.) I am originally from Tucson, AZ but moved to Oxnard CA :D
I'm looking for a Pinto wagon with an automatic.

douglasskemp

http://ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=20

Everyone,
The link above has nothing to do with the text below, I just thought it was pretty cool info.
A lot of what is done to old Mustangs can be altered to work on our cars, with a bit of ingenuity and good ol' fashioned trial and error.

Also:
I am borrowing the text below from the Yahoo! Group for Classic Mustangs, so take it for what it is worth.
Remember, that the old Mustangs are five lug, not four lug, so the lug conversion would need to be done first.
This will work on 8" and 9" small bearing rears, which covers what a bunch of us have.
I did not do the write up and I have not tried this swap myself, so I take no responsibility for the content or it's usefulness.
Good luck!
--Doug
------------ --------- -----
This is the write up for the late model Crown Victoria or Mercury
Marquis rear disk brake setup swap into the early Mustangs. It fits
the small bearing 9" rear end, or 8" rear end in the early Mustangs.
This details a heck of a lot of steps, and it's really not as
complicated as it sounds, but is difficult to describe in text. I'll
have to take some photos when I have a website available.

Pros for this swap include;
1. Cheap! (<$300).
2. Solid and light, much lighter than any other disk setup I've seen.
3. Cheap, easy to find replacement parts.
4. Incredible difference in braking feel and confidence.
5. Good looking (as compared to drums!) through the wheels.

Cons include:
1. Solid rotor (11.4").
2. Phenolic pistons (unless you can find police or station wagon
calipers).
3. Difficult to install and use e-brakes.

Here's the meat:
Every Crown Vic and Mercury Marquis from '92-'95 used rear disk brakes.
Later models use a similar, but slightly different setup. This swap
message only covers '92-'95 brakes, as this was something I had more
information on than the later years of Crown Vics.
The resulting setup from this swap is some nice shiny disks on the
rear of your early Mustang (or other car with suitable rear end) measuring
11.4" in diameter, non-vented, with parking brakes located inside the drum
part of the rotors, just like the Explorer setup, only fitting the small
bearing 9" and regular 8" instead of the big bearing 9". This write up details
a '68 Mustang swap, but others should be similar. Police use this brake
setup, with one change (steel piston calipers), routinely for fast stops
from over 100 mph. Explorers use the same setup as well for towing, so it's
got to be decent. I've never noticed any brake fade from it, although my
car doesn't see too much high speed track time.

With this swap I feel very confident in very hard stops, contrary to
my previous drum setup that occasionally wanted to switch lanes by
itself at the worst times. Now I can stab the brakes and all the tires bite
pretty hard. It's a much more controlled stop. In fact, I'd venture to say
that it's one of the best braking setups I've felt. Much better than
any production car I've ever driven.

What you need:
===========
About 14 hours of time, including a few parts store runs (a friend is
handy too!)
Calipers (about $35 each with $50 core)
Old caliper hose ends to see the new flare and get the flare nuts(to
match, since you'll have to flare your existing brake lines)
Rotors ($25-$50 each)
Brake pads ($25 set)
Caliper hoses ($20 each)
Rear axle mounting brackets from a salvage yard (price varies, got
mine with cables and calipers for $55 pair!)
Emergency brake cables from salvage yard(up to the middle of the car)
All from a '92-'95 Crown Vic or Mercury Marquis

Also:
wheel studs that are 1 3/4"-2" long, 1/2"x 20 threads with stock
knurl of .625" (these are difficult to find sometimes, stock length is 1
5/8").
1/8" steel cable end that you can bolt on a steel cable (hardware
store)
Some scrap steel
An old wheel bearing is handy, and don't forget brake fluid

What you will need to fabricate (as explained below):
axle bearing spacers
brake hose mounting tabs
e-brake mounting
e-brake cables

Tools:
Something to cut 1/4" steel like sawzall, etc.
pneumatic cut off tool (with 3" wheel)
Welder or torch with brazing rod (not necessary if you clamp the end
hose brackets on)

How to do it:
============ =
Go to your local salvage yard and get the calipers, mounting
brackets, and e-brake cables, don't worry about rotors unless you get a really good
deal. You'll probably pay more to buy and turn a set of used rotors than
you would to buy them new. You'll want to watch them take off the mounting
brackets so you can see how the e-brakes go, and how the mounting brackets
mount on the axle. Get every little part you can, you never know what you'll
need in these type swaps. Pay attention to the orientation of the brakes on
the Crown Vic. The caliper mounts on the rear of the disk on the
driver's side, but opposite (on the front of the disk) on the passenger side. This
is so that Ford can use one casting for both brackets.

I personally wouldn't use used calipers when replacing them is so
cheap. I only want to do this once. But, you still need to get the used
calipers as the core prices are very high (about $40-$50!), so you'll need them
to get this money back when you buy the new or rebuilt ones.

If possible, get the steel piston calipers when you buy new. The
regular pistons in these calipers is phenolic. They don't stand up to heat
quite as well as the steel ones that the police and station wagons use. Not
sure if Explorer calipers use them or not, or if they interchange. (added
note: I've used phenolic pistons now for many years and so far, they work
fine.)

If you want to clean and paint the outside of the hub of the rotors,
or calipers, now is the time. Use 1200 degree temp paint or higher.

Replacing the brakes:
============ ======
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (ha ha! Not
really, I just like saying that because it's so completely irrelevant and if I
were a Chilton's book, that's what I'd say. I'll get serious again... Ahem.)

2. Jack up the car, preferably by the rear axle spring perch plate,
and take off the rear wheels and drums. If you don't know how to do this, you
shouldn't attempt to do this swap!

3. Take off the drum backing plates and unscrew the brake line
connection. Then hurl the junk drums and backing plates as far as you can
towards the trash (O.K. really, I said I'd be serious...).


...To Be Continued...
The Pinto I had I gave to my brother. The car was originally my mom's, (78 red Pinto sedan with a 2.3 and a 4spd.) I am originally from Tucson, AZ but moved to Oxnard CA :D
I'm looking for a Pinto wagon with an automatic.