Mini Classifieds

1980 Pinto-Shay for sale

Date: 07/07/2016 01:21 pm
1973 FORD PINTO HOOD "F O R D" LETTERS
Date: 02/11/2020 12:09 am
Needed, 2.0 or 2.3 motors
Date: 09/30/2018 07:47 pm
72 pinto drag car

Date: 06/22/2017 07:19 am
1971 2 lt Cam
Date: 10/10/2020 06:27 pm
1973 Interior parts wanted
Date: 01/02/2017 11:02 pm
Looking for oil dipstick and tube 2.3L
Date: 11/23/2017 05:44 pm
72 PINTO WAGON

Date: 09/23/2018 06:16 pm
Pinto interior parts for Cruisen / Rallye wagon
Date: 01/19/2021 03:56 pm

Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

Members
Stats
  • Total Posts: 139,575
  • Total Topics: 16,267
  • Online today: 551
  • Online ever: 2,670 (Yesterday at 01:57:20 AM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 528
  • Total: 528
F&I...more

My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

radiator mods for v8

Started by gearhead440, August 22, 2005, 12:23:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ford guy

alloy is better  but use only  green aint freeze in it.

or the rad will  give up because of acid   wayne

gearhead440

77turbo, thanks for the information.  I did lots of measuring and trial fitting with other larger radiators than the MII size just to see how much room was available and what it was going to take :read:.  The MII radiator is certainly not a bolt in, nor am I trying to say that.  Since the MII worked for the V8 and I knew the dimensions that was my starting point.  I chose the Datsun 280z rad because of the similarity and price :idea:.  Thanks for looking out for us.
d_ thanks for the insight on the olds radiator ;)!
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

I would not get this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ford-mustang-II-and-pinto-V8-radiator_W0QQitemZ8037870377QQcategoryZ33602QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have seen a few MII v8 cars and I installed a radiator from one in my pinto, they are not a direct bolt-in to a pinto (this one does not look like any I have seen, but maybe it is, and will do what he said).

I sent him a question about that detail: "Some people do install mustang II v8 radiators in pintos (like me), but they are not a 'bolt-in', and parts need to be fabricated. You might know this already, but if not, I wanted to let you know because someone with a pinto might buy it and not be happy (with you) to find that out after. Hope this helps. Bill (77tp)"

He repied: "this has been bolted in no parts needed except bolts , i know what i am saying, howard" (no further mention of what car it was bolted into)

A few minutes after that reply to me, he pulled the listing.

Please note again, that there are lots of people out there that lie to pinto owners just to sell Mustang II V8 parts that will NOT "bolt in" as advertized. Adding the word 'pinto' to show up on more searches is one thing, to lie in detail about what it will fit is another. If you are in doubt about what will and won't work, please ask someone other than the seller before you buy.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

d_kitchell

Have a mustang II and a pinto, both v8 and don't have any overheating problems. Never climbs above 180 degrees at the strip or at an idle. Found a radiator from a 1964 oldsmobile. One is a three core and the other a four core. Trimmed the edges of the vehicle metal back to the inner fender support skirt. (The metal that the regular radiator bolts to) Then built a "C" shaped bracket of channel the width of the frame for the radiators to rest on. Coushin the channel with rubber radiator support material. Lowered the hood on the radiator setting in the channel and closed the hood on the project. Pushed up on the bottom of the channel till the radiator cap rested against the hood. Marked the channel then drilled and bolted it to the frame. The top of the radiator will accept the radiator supports that you pulled from the 62 to 64 Olds radiator removal. Drilled a hole and bolted it to the top of the crossmember from top of fenderskirt to top of fenderskirt. Dimpled the inner support for the hood (Dimple does not show on outside of hood. In inner hood support only) and closed the lid. The water spouts are perfect in position for any ford smallblock. Had a built 351 W in the mustang II for awhile and it never climbed above 180 either. The first time I did this project, it took about five hours. The pinto project took about 2hrs. Of course I learned from the mustang II and did the pinto with the engine out. I kept the orginal fan and didn't bother with an electric. I have friends that use this same concept with the radiator but use and electric fan. They love to shut down the fan on the track. The told me that heating up the motor to 230 degrees just before launch brings out a beast. I tried it once and was impressed! Lots of luck.

gearhead440

I did some digging and discovered that at 78 Datsun 280z rad and a 78 Mustang II rad are essentially the same radiator with almost identical dimensions.  The difference is that the inlet and outlets are opposite between the radiators.  Look at my reply in the FAQ's forum under v8 swap questions for 74-80 pintos.  New, the 280z rad is about 1/3 the price of a Mustang II V8 radiator, too  :surprised:.
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

pintoguy76

When i find a wagon in decent shape for the right price im going to put in a 302. It sounds like alot of fun. I'll likly be using a MII Radiator, and id like an electric fan but it sounds as tho that might not be the best of an idea. Although, if you look around you can find a fan with lower amp draw that has higher CFM's. Last one i saw that satisfied me was $200 i think.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

Prostreet49335

tryed a L88 b/b rad works good for  me  190thermostat runs 190 all day long                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       george

junkyard dog

Try and Find a rad out of a mid 90;s Ford Explorer..
Some of these came with 5.0 and 4.0 engines..

HiPopinto

I am swapping a SWEET hot little 289 and top loader close ratio in my 1980 coupe this winter she is a 66 Hipo with 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves it is a 12.7 to one engine, with an Erson mechanical cam. I put this engine together in the Early 1990's before aluminum heads were affordable so I went the porting polishing route. As for induction, it is a Shelby high rise with a pair of 600 holleys on a progressive factory linkage I built a custom bell housing from an aluminum factory bell and a Mustang T-5 bell I removed the fork added an aluminum tab to the fork side of the bell I out the ball on the opposite side of the bell and now it uses a fork from the T-5 with a cable it is really a slick set up! Fly wheel is a motorsport 10.5 inch clutch is centerofrce for a t-5 Starter is for a thunderbird with a c-4 auto and it runs perfect ( I have it on a custom break in stand now man it was nice to hear this thing run again!) Oil pan is a Cobra II

For a radiator I did measuring and found that with only a little cut on each side of the factory core support and installing from the FRONT of the core a 67 mustang radiator fits perfectly! These were already made for the heat of a V-8 and they are CHEAP

I have not had it running in the car yet, but it fits, you can still use the hood latch and it should be a perfect cooing radiator for the combination

My only dilemma now is the hood, who makes a 2 inch cowl hood for a 1979-0 car?

Any input would be great

pmfman

eeeek, no!

conect the lower rad hose on rad #1 to the upper rad host on rad #2
KDC

High_Horse

Hey Kidpinto....Do you have some pics of your installation ? I would really like to see what you did. Also, what temp thermostat are you using?

                                                                                                                 High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

kidpinto

bump this back to the top to see how things are going. i have tried just about every thing i can think of but still can not get it to run under 190 when moving and 210 sitting at a light.i am using the v8 mustang 2 rad.

crazyhorse

I don't still own the 'stang but I took my v6 rad & had it recored to a 4 row at a local radiator shop. After that I went back from the flex fan to a 12" electric (around 27A draw)

As far as electrical... I had to upgrade my 'Stang's alt to a 100A unit I was using the EEC-IV Injection & dual fuel pumps... add an electric fan to this & the poor lil original alt. is OVERWHELMED I could run the wipers,& lights but NOT the defroster or radio... add either one & the engine would die from low fuel pressure.
If you're thinking I had a frustrating time with this 'Stang... you're right, but it all took place over a 6mo span. After that I drove it for almost 5 years trouble free. Finally a conn rod came thru the block. (hey I was beating on a Dodge Stealth R/T when it happened!!)
How to tell when a redneck's time is up: He combines these two sentences... Hey man, hold my beer. Hey y'all watch this!
'74 Runabout, stock 2300,auto  RIP Darlin.
'95 Olds Gutless "POS"
'97 Subaru Legacy wagon "Kat"

gearhead440

Looking at Summit, they have a Griffin radiator, aluminum, 19"H x 22"W x 3" thick, GRI-1-26182-X, $189, that matches the inlet and outlet locations of the Mustang II Radiator.  The stock MII V8 rad. is 16..5"H x 23"W x 2.25" thick, and about $325 from RadiatorBarn.com, BTW.  Summit also has a 16" reversible electric fan, 10 "S" blades, part number SUM-G4904, 16"W x 4" Deep, 2010cfm, 13.2 Amp draw for $81.  I think that this is the route that I will be taking based on input from Crazy Horse and High Horse.  I'll keep you guys posted :D.
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

gearhead440

High Horse,
The shorter pump does require special pulleys that are made by ford racing - check out summitracing.com :).  As far as the two raidiators, I could create either a 2 pass heat exchanger system or parallel system.  The 2 pass would be taking water from the pump, putting it thru the inlet of the outside radiator, connecting the outlet of the outside radiator to the inlet of the inside radiator, and then connecting the outlet of the inside radiator to the suction of the pump.  The split pass would be similar to y-ing exhaust piping.  The outlet of the pump goes into the inlet of both rads and the outlet of both rads will y into a common pipe for the suction of the pump.  The latter would be the best IMO for coolant piping routing and distribution providing that the suction draws equally on both rads.  Both would double the volume of the coolant system.  As far as flow rate vs. heat exchange goes, for lower heat generation levels, with the specific heat capacity of water, you can have too large of a coolant flow rate to adequately remove heat.  That is why nuclear power plants that operate at differing power levels have pumps with more than one speed (this is associated with my day job).  However, in this type of application I dont think you will see a signficant change in the coolant flow rate between a "stock" and "high" flow pump to create a lot of difference.  The most significant variable in this application is the volume of coolant and the heat removal rate of the heat exchanger system.  This is a case of bigger, and more efficient, is better.  With the experience of Crazy Horse, I'm almost certain of using an aluminum rad as mine will be a daily driver with lots of road miles.  I'm sure I can design it and make it work, but why re-invent the wheel for this one  ;)?
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

High_Horse

CrazyHorse.......You are so right! I can tell right now that this thing is right on the line. And, as a first time user of electric fanning  I did not expect the amp. draw to be so high. 25 amps. for a 10 inch fan???????????? is that right????? That's 50 amps for the two fans. That does not leave much for the headlites. Anyway,I really did not want to chop the front end up and as you can see from my picture it is a tidy little package. What did you do CrazyHorse? What is your configuration? Pics???????
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

High_Horse

GearHead440......Man if you have the talent to stick two 4 cyl. radiators together in a parallel configuration like you say I think the water pump will have no problem pushing it through fairly evenly as long as flow is high(like with no thermostat). Some may argue that the faster the fluid is moving the less Btu's are blown off. I disagree and say that BTU'S  know no velocity. The configuration you speak of would certainly allow you to use a lesser fan(aka..amp.draw) provided
that you dammed the edges like you said. But you would  have to dam the first radiator outside of the circumferance of the fan as not to get a backdraft. Also, the first radiator would act as a diffuser and push air 100% more effectivly though the in.\2 of the second. I still would like to see how you would fit this unit in even with a 1.5 inch shorter pump nose. Also, do the people that sell that shorter water pump sell a pulley to go with it? Cause it will change my pulley alignment. Yes. my pulley to radiator seperation right now is about 1/2 inch.
Take a pic if you can. I am intreged.
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

crazyhorse

High Horse, I used a V6 radiator when I installed a 5.0 HO in my '74 'StangII. Going down the road it was just fine, however, "cruising" was hard on it. I raced it at Bristol Dragway & the staging lanes were ALMOST too much for it. I tried both dual electric fans & a single flex fan. The radiator was right on the edge as far as size goes. More capacity wasn't the answer either, I added a one gal. overflow which allowed me to maintain a constant level, but not a good temp. The rad needed just a LITTLE more area. If you plan on doing any "cruises" in "Thunder Pinto" I'd reccommend just a touch more radiator.
How to tell when a redneck's time is up: He combines these two sentences... Hey man, hold my beer. Hey y'all watch this!
'74 Runabout, stock 2300,auto  RIP Darlin.
'95 Olds Gutless "POS"
'97 Subaru Legacy wagon "Kat"

gearhead440

High Horse,
I have been closely following your progress  ;D and am most appreciative of your pics :angel:.  I saw a V10 swap into a Dodge Challenger performed a few year back that utilized a diesel truck radiator, something like 26 quarts  :o of coolant.  Looking at the 2 rads front to back, there should be enough room to install both with some creativity and a gentle touch with a saws-all but leaving the top support intact.  I am wondering if the rads could be mounted close enough to each other to allow sufficient airflow to be pushed over both.  Some rubber insulation could be added to bridge the gap between the two to facilitate airflow.  Another aspect I have be pondering is how quickly the water would be able to flow into the "outside" raidator.  What I mean is that the water would have to flow into both and out through the "inside" (closest to the engine) one.  Since water will take the path of least resistance would there be sufficient coolant flow rate through the "outside" rad or would it just fill up and remain full ????  The heat transfer characteristics of both rads would be the same since they are the same material and the coolant volume for heat transfer would certainly be increased (doubled from stock) which should be enough for the V8 (Q=mc(Th-Tc)).  It is certainly feasable to construct this type of heat exchanger but from an engineering standpoint (not monetary) it would seem the most reliable and tested alternative would be the aluminum heat exchanger.  True, the copper has better heat dissipation, but the aluminum has more fins per inch and is already constructed and ready to bolt in with some of the same mods required to facilitate the installation of my "dual radiator" design.  BTW, Summit has a shorty style water pump for the small block that is 1.5" shorter than stock.  I intend on using this one - did you use it on your swap?  I think you had something like 3/8" clearance?  Just my thoughts on the subject.  Any ideas?  Thanks!!!!
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

High_Horse

I am working this radiator thing out myself. I am using a v6 radiator with two 10 inch fans and I think I am going to add a booster core. But my dilemma was not wanting to chop up the front framework to get a unit to fit correctly(or at least my interpretation of correctly). Keep your eye on how far forward your fan pulley is. This will require the radiator to be moved back. Good question!!!!!!
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

gearhead440

I wanted to bounce this idea off of everyone to see what they thought.  I have 2 radiators from 4 cyl pintos.  Is it feasable to drill holes in the back of one and solder the inlet and outlest of the other into the first to create a larger overall radiator?  Just a question.  Griffin has an aluminum radiator that is 19"H x 22"W x 3"thick that should work for $189 so that would probably be the better route to take.  Any thoughts / comments.  Thanks.
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?