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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

1973 radiator upgrade

Started by LongTimeFordMan, March 29, 2021, 02:41:56 PM

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LongTimeFordMan

fill radiator..  i used Zerex G05 c9ncentrate which is a HOAT (hybrid organic acid)

i used the concentrate diluted 50/50 with distilled water. it takes anout 3 gallons total.

here are some additional views of finished install showing lower support bar, et
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

attach hoses..

see figs of inlet hose for positioning.

. tighten lower hose.

remove the protective cardboards and straps.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

assemble the passenger side upper bracket and from engine side insert the short retainer bar thru the opening in the bulkhead and tighten .F4,F5

check for clearance at bottom of radiator.

tighten mounting bolts..

check hood clearance with playdough at both driver and passenger corners. put playdough wad on radiator and SLOWLY lower hood until if closes and check thickness of squashed playdough

clearance should be about 1". G1,G2
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

unbolt the horn mounting bolt from the driver side and insert a 2" 1/4-20 bolt from the forward side, fit the driver side upper bracket onto the bolt, make sure the foam padding is in place then add nut and tighten loosely. F1,F2,F3
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

Install the lower hose onto the water pump and loosely tighten the hose clamp.  install a hose clamp onto the lower hose where it attaches to the radiator.

With the protective cardboard still in place attach the lower support bar to the radiator and CAREFULLY maneuver the radiator into place and position the lower support bar into position and insert the 6" long 1/4-20 bolts thru the frame. C1,C2,C3,C4


Check for clearances and interferences with vapor cannister, chassis bolts, especially the pasenger side bumper support bolt, etc. C1,C2,C3,C4

if there are no clearance problems, proceed with fitting the upper brackets..

un


Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

remove the fan and support assembly and position the  cradles in place so that the holes in the bottom of the fan support rails and the bottom hole in the cradles align and drill holes into the fan support rails for additional screws.

bolt the fan support rails to the cradles using only the upper bolts, not the ones at the bottom. B1

cover the sides of the support rails that face the radiator core with the adhesive backed insulating tape B3

Attach the fan/ cradle assembly to the radiator.  hint.. insert the 10-32 screws thru the top radiator frame and secure them with 10-32 nuts. B5

THEN add the 5/16" spacer nuts and attach the fan / cradle assembly to the radiator. B5
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

Preparing the radiator and fan assembly.

the fan has mounting points at the top and bottom with rotate the fan 90 degrees so that the mounting points are at the sides. Fig B2 ,B5

with the protective cardboad still on the radiator, position the radiator with the inlet and outlet tubes facing downward on the workbench. so that the front side of the radiator is upright.

you might want to use a couple of 2x4s to support it.

remove about 1" of the cardboard from top and bottom of fr9nt side of radiator to allow precision positioning of fan supports.

measure off lengths of the 3/4" angle to fit the distance between the top and bottom rails of the radiator.. they should be 19-1/4" but measure about 1/4" extra.

cut the 19- 1/4" fan support rails from the angle and drill 1/4" holes about 1/4" from the ends to be used at the bottom of the radiator. Fig D1

CAREFULLY Drill a 1/4" hole in the NARROW bottom radiator frame 2-1/2" from the edge of the passenger side radiator tank. Fig D2

Drill another into the top frame 2-1/2' inches from the tank. D2

Position one of the supports onto the bottom of the passenger side of the  radiator and remporarily secure it into position with a 10-32 screw and nut using one of the 5/16" nuts as a spacer. Fig B2

Align the rail parallel to the edge of the driver side tank, there should be about a 2" distance. mark the rail where it crosses the hole in the upper radiator frame. remove the rail and drill a 1/4" hole in the rail, replace the rail and mark the upper radiator frame for a 1/4" mounting hole and drill the upper mounting hole. secure the top and the bottom of the rail with 10-32 screws, nuts and spacers.

Position the fan on the secured rail so that the top of the fan is about 1 " from the top of the radiator.

position the driver side rail under the fan with the bottom end flush with the bottom radiator frame and note where it crosses the upper radiator frame.

mark and drill mounting holes in the driver side support rail and upper and lower radiator frames.  temporarily secure the mounting rails with 10-32 screws.

position the fan onto the support rails and note where the fan mounting holes fall on the rails and mark the rails.

Remove the rails and drill 1/4" mounting holes for the fan into the support rails

insert 2" 10-32 screws into the holes from the radiator side and add nuts to secure the screws into the rails.  file or grind the heads of the screws almost flush with the rails and secure the screw heads and nuts with super glue or Loktolite. B5

check alignment and square of fit between the fan supports and radiator.

position the fan onto the mounting bolts and secure with  washers and nuts.


************
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

Fabricating the lower support cradles

fabricate the u shaped lower support cradles from the 1" flat aluminum stock as shown in Fig B1

the rear portion of the cradles should be about 7"  but the more important dimension is the width of the cradles.. Fig B1

the width front to back should be about 3 -1/4". Fig B1

fabricate the cradles and drill a 1/4" hole 5-1/4" from the bottom of the cradle. Fig B3

drill a 1/4" hole in the rear leg of the cradle about 1/16" from  the bend and another 3" from the bend. Fig B1

Line the front portions of the cradles with the foam pipe insulation and secure it with the cable ties to act as padding for the radiator core. Fig B4

fabricate the upper mounting brackets as shown in Fig B6 and pad with the insulating foam as shown.

Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

start by removing the existing radiator, fan and and hoses.

remove the passenger side bumper support bolt and either shorten it about 1/2" or reverse it so that the head is inside and the nut is on the outside.  this is necessary to allow clearance for the new radiator.

if your car has a vapor cannister, remove this and locate toward the rear about 2" so that it just clears the oil pan, drill another mounting hole and mount the cannister. See Fig C3


Measure and cut the 27 inch lower support bar size to fit snugly between the frame rails just behind the bumper support bolts.

then drill a 5/16" hole on each end of the bar about 1/2" from each end.

drill holes for the radiator support cradle into the support bar. The holes should be at right angles to the previous holes so that when installed the attachment bolts on the   cradles can be attached.

The hole for the passenger side should be 5-1/2 inches from one end of the bar. See Fig C1

The hole for the driver side should be 8 inches from the end of the bar. See Fig C3


position the lower support bar in the engine compartment on the frame rails just behind the bumper mounting bolts. Using the holes in the mounting bar, drill 5/16" holes thru the frame to use to mount the lower support, but do not bolt in the mount. Fig C1, C3

remove the lower support bar






Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

prepare the car..

this is optional but i decided to.flush the system prior to the install..

i first added about 1/2 cup tide liquid detergent to.remove oil deposits and drove the car a few days then drained it and removed the thermostat and replaced the outlet. 

removed the top radiator hose and flushed into the hose to reverse flush the with hose into inlet hose till water was clear.

replaced the hose, filled with tap water and added about 4 oz of LIME AWAY to remove rust and scale. Ran engine for about 20 min to clean out scale.

shut off engine, drained and flushed with hose till water was clear. added about 1/2 cup baking soda to neutralize any acid. ran engine for 10 min.

reverse flushed with hose.. i forgot to flush heater.. but you should do that as well.



Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

The new radiator has an upper inlet tube with an outside diameter of 1-1/2" and a lower outlet tube with an outside diameter of 2".

the pinto hoses are: Top 1-1/4"  lower 1-1/2".

the Dayco hose is 1-1/2" with a flare to 2" and sections of it can be used for both the lower hose and a short adapter to fit the upper hose to the radiator.

see figure  A2 shows dimensions for cutting the Dayco hose. for the first cuttings the sections should be cut a bit longer and then cut to exact fit once the radiator is instslled  to insure best fit.

the flared section of the Dayco hose used for the lower hose will.fit the 2" outlet tube of the new radiator and the 1-1/2" main section will fit the connection to the water pump.

the factory upper inlet hose can be utized if it is cut midway at the straight horizontal section and a 1-1/4" metal tube sed between the ends as an extension. However the upper inlet tube of the new radiator is 1-1/2" OD which is also the OD of the factory hose and the ID of the new Dayco hose.

A short section, about 3" of the dayco hose can be used as an adapter to fit the curved end section of the factory hose to the new upper inlet tube.

when fitting the short adapter to the factory hose use a short, about 1-1/2" section of the metal tube inside the factory hose as a stiffener to prevent the factory hose from collapsing when  the adapter is clamped onto the factory hose

Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

About this radiator

the upper inlet and lower outlet tubes of this radiator are too long to allow hoses to be fitted properly.  it is therefore necessary to shorten the tubes as shown in Fig A5 and A6.

also unfortunately the radiator does not come equipped for a drain plug or petcock.  i am attempting to design an add on one that can be added and will report on thei when i have fitted it.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

i just installed a new aluminum radiator from speedway motors. Its 22" wide by 19" tall. and it fits well with no major body or sheetmetal mods needed.. and it cost $132 plus tax free delivery total $141

here is a link to the radiator
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chevy-SBC-BBC-Universal-Aluminum-Radiators,3557.html

here is a link to the radiator. unfortunately there isnt clearance for a puller fan so i used an electric one i had been using for my olde factory radiator.  i configured it as a pusher and mounted it in frone of the radiator. here is a link to the fan, $32 pplus tax from Amazon


NOTE.....

ALL DIMENSIONS LISTED HERE ARE SPECIFIC TO THIS FAN...

IF YOU USE ANOTHER FAN  YOU WILL NEED TO ADJUST THE DIMENSIONS TO FIT YOUR SPECIFIC UNIT.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Performance-Electric-Radiator-Mounting/dp/B00T3U1QRY

here is a list of materials i used..
a 27" length of 1" square aluminum tubing for a lower support however most any sort of tubin g such as 3/4 or 1" duameter thinwall electrical conduit would also work..

one Dayco 72242 lower radiator hose

about 12" of 1- 1/4" metal tubing..  thinwall electrical conduit or this chrome one from home depot
https://www.google.com/search?q=1.25%22+brass+drain+12%22&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwj-5KDdi8rvAhUQB6wKHYX0ADIQ2-cCegQIABAC&oq=1.25%22+brass+drain+12%22&gs_lcp=ChJtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1pbWcQAzoCCCk6BQghEKsCUIVJWPZpYKBvaABwAHgAgAF9iAHBBJIBAzAuNZgBAKABAcABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img&ei=ZsxbYP6ZI5COsAWF6YOQAw&bih=280&biw=683&prmd=sivn


a  36 " length of .125 x 1 inch aluminum flat stock

a 48" length of 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle stock

one length of 1/2" foam pipe insulation

5 each 2" hose clamps Available in plumbing dept of Home Depot

1 each 2-1/2" hose clamp

1 gallon Zerex G05 coolant concentrated

5 gallons distilled water.

about 20 nylon cable ties

2 each 5" 1/4-20 all thread bolts with nuts

6 each 2" 1/4-20 all thread bolts with nuts


about 20 2" long 10-32 machine screws with nuts

4 each 5/16" nuts.

1 roll of adhesive backed foam insulation tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553


Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles