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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Fuel starvation in 73 wagon

Started by LongTimeFordMan, November 26, 2019, 09:31:02 PM

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LongTimeFordMan

Update on fuel pump drive.

I inserted the fuel.pump drive rod and measured the retracted  and extended points of the travel

Retracted distance from rod to mounting surface was about .260"

Extended about .050"

For total.travel.of about .200"

Then I measured the pump plunger travel from plunger tip to mounting surface.

Extended about .600" (5/8") bottomed out about .125 (1/8")

So apparently the pump shaft was pretty much depressed most of the way all.the time and the stroke with the different block and aux shaft the pump stroke was too short to draw in any fuel.

I added a 1/4" spacer between the pump and the block and the pump pumped.sfeadily at almost 5 psi with no pressure drop.

I have a holley pressure regulator and pressure gauge and set the pressure down to about 4 psi and it held steady.

Shut off 3ngine and pressure held at 3 psi for over an hour.

Conclusion..

Apparently there are different combinations of auxiliary shafts and pushrods.

I am just thankful that the original pump wasnt damaged like the new one I installed.

Worst case I still have the electric pump mounted and wired as a backup if needed and plan to move the electric to the rear next to the tank just in case
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

"I I"I have bought a lot of brake, steering, and suspension parts for my 1964 Fairlane that are nowhere near the quality of the original parts. I've had rubber ball joint boots rot and fall apart in less than 2 years."


I hear that. I bought new ball joints for my Sunbeam Tiger and there is only ONE choice with those. Like you the rubber rotted out within a year.  The car never saw daylight and I'm far enough from LA that smog is not a contributing issue. Frustrating. Back in 2001 those ball joints were $89.99.

ponyboy

It's been a long time since I had a Pinto engine apart, and I have worked on a lot of other engines since, and I don't remember exactly how it goes together. But I would be careful with the pushrod length. I have seen engines with broken cams because someone installed the pump wrong. The last thing you want to do is break that auxiliary shaft. If an electric pump is working, I would just leave it that way for now. That rules out any problem between the pump and fuel tank.

I think pretty much any part for a Pinto these days is either going to be rebuilt, or be a Chinese reproduction. And there is a good chance of there being an issue with either. It is almost impossible to get good quality parts for vintage cars these days. I have bought a lot of brake, steering, and suspension parts for my 1964 Fairlane that are nowhere near the quality of the original parts. I've had rubber ball joint boots rot and fall apart in less than 2 years. They originals were still on there after 50 years.

LongTimeFordMan

I suspect that there might be a problem with the match between the auxiliary shaft cam and the push rod that activates the pump.

And that this causes a difference in the pump.stroke.

I l9oked at  a "new oem" pump and noticed that the shaft protruding from the pump was about 1/8" inch longer than the pump previously installed on the car and it as well bottomed out about 1/8" from the mounting surface of the pump.

Noticing this i installed a 1/4" shim between the new pump and block and everything seemed ok.

After driving for a few days i removed the shim and ran the car, it ran for about 5 minutes and quit.

I removed the pump and saw that the circlip that retains the spring was broken as well as part 9f the pump housing.

Apparently the pushrod pushed it too far into the pump.

The block i have now including the auxiliary shaft was from a capri with reat oil sump.

I used the pushrod from my pinto block and noticed that the pushrod travel was from about 3/8" when at low point to about 1/8" at high point.

I am thinking that there might be a difference in the stroke of the aux shaft cam and rod.

I also noticed that on the Burton power website that they sell both  "thick" and "thin" pump to block gaskets. Possibly because there might be a difference in the aux shaft/ pushrod stroke.

Car is running ok with electric pump mounted low in engine compartment.

Next step is to insert pushrod into old block, rotate aux shaft and note the travel and depth into the block, also to relocate the electric pump at rear  near tank and just run the electr8c pump
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

ponyboy

The Pinto fuel system is pretty simple and straightforward. Not much that can go wrong with it that would be hard to find. If a new stock oem fuel pump is not pumping, and there is gas in the tank, then there is something plugged up farther back, or there is an air leak in the line between the pump and the tank. Try pumping gas from a gas can with the stock pump and a hose between the pump and gas can. The pump is self priming, and if it doesn't work, either the pump is defective, or possibly the pump arm is bent, The pushrod is worn, or the cam on the auxiliary shaft is worn down. What engine do you have, the 1600cc or the 2000cc? If the fuel line to the gas tank is plugged, compressed air might clean it out. Otherwise you would have to remove the sending unit assembly. I have not had this problem so far with the Pinto, but I have had a lot of damage done to motorcycle fuel systems due to ethanol gas. It melts rubber and plastic, corrodes aluminum and rusts iron and steel. Bad stuff.

Wittsend

That is interesting in that you have the pump rather forward. Although a small amount, the fuel in the line you would think it would be a buffer but maybe it draws air and once it the line it has to go through the pump???

On most cars even though they always say to mount the pump low, the flow is typically through the sender unit which ironically is at the TOP of the tank. So, regardless of how low the pump is, it is still up hill until past the tank output. And as such the lower mounted pump might struggle with more air in the line then if the pump was higher. it would seem one needs to experiment with each different application.

Oddly enough the Pinto Wagon fuel sender is in the middle of the tank and actually has less drawing distance and one would think it would be easier on the pump. Go figure.


One last thing. One of the most painful experiences in my life was getting gasoline in my ear while working on a tank  :'( . Be careful. Those foam earplugs might help.

LongTimeFordMan

Hi..
Thanks for the input.

More info.

I have a fuel pressure gauge and when then the pump is oumping it reads about 4 psi.

When no fuel it drops to about 1-2  psi.

I drove the car about 5 miles with no problems and when i got home  today fuel pressure was steady 4 psi but air temp here is about 45 farenheit.

I was also able to blow easily back thru the vapor return / vent line connectex to the canister so no obstructed lines.

I know that fuel.slosh is a factor but in all cases there was mor than 3/4 tank of fuel because i had just topped off the tank.

I use the black plastic facet and from experience using the pump on a generator and as a siphon to zoop fuel out of the tank when i calibrated my fuel gauge that the facet clicks when there is no fuel at the input..

Makes me think it might be the winter gas which is designed to vaporize more quickly and 8s vaporizing in the fuel line from the tank.

This wouldnt be a problem with modern fuel injected cars since the pump is in the tank and the line would be pressurized..

I think i will move the pump to the rear near the tank.

Will post more as i discover more
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Wittsend

I use the Facet type Cube pumps on two of my cars (Valiant and Studebaker). Being cheap like I am I use the $15 Chinese version. On the Valiant it is the only pump as the mechanical pump had a leaking diaphragm and I bypassed it. On the Studebaker it is assistive. The main reason I use them is to prime a car that has sat for a period of time such that the float bowls run dry. I have found that these types of Cube pump tend to "flow through" and I can shut them off and use just the mechanical pump after priming.  Because I drive these cars so infrequent I generally have no more that a 1/4 tank full at any given time.  That may be a factor in what I say below.

My experience has been that the angle of the road or the act of stopping the car will bring on the clicking sound. I presume the fuel is moving away from the pick up.  It can be unnerving when I'm stuck at a red light with road incline and the clicking starts.  That said, I can't recall a time that the car has stalled regardless of the clicking sound. So, what I'm wondering is, is this typical even with a mechanical pump and we never hear it? It does beg the question as where the pick up should be in a street driven tank. Too low and you might zoop up crap. Too forward and you zoop air going up a hill. Likewise too rearward and you zoop air going down hill (although that is probably the lesser evil).

My '73 (Turbo 2.3) Pinto wagon uses an external (F-150) fuel pump to supply the 40+ PSI for the fuel injection.  This system needs a return line.  I opted to use the sender housing, drilling a hole, soldering an additional tube with the (hopeful) aspect of pointing it far enough away so the return did not push fuel away from the pick up.  When I initially started driving the car I had symptoms of running out of fuel.  The car would stall, then restart. My issues were compounded by the fact that I used the TC tach in the original Pinto cluster location and used the TC fuel gage that is not properly calibrated.  A few gallons down from full and the gage shows empty*. So, the tank/pick up design may well have issues but I keep it so full I might not show.

* I plan on hiding the original gage in the glove box at some point to avoid this "guessing game."  I need to put that on my 'to do' list.

Anyway, I can't give a definitive statement other than to say that I too have the loud clicking from the cube type fuel pumps. Fuel slosh seems to be an issue. And I have had somewhat suspect aspects of the Pinto fuel tank/pick up and the amount of fuel in the tank. But to pinpoint or correct the problem other than say keep the tank full I'm at a loss.

LongTimeFordMan

About a week ago my wagon began to have a fuel starvation  problem.

Originally oem fuel pump, stock 32/36 holley webber carb.

I was driving along in town and suddenly the car just quit with 3/4 tank of fuel i had just topped.tank off.

Limped.into a parking lot and discovered that the fuel filter between fuel pump and carb was empty and only bubbles were comming into the filter no fuel sort of like vapor lock but ambient temp was only about 70 farenheit.

Ive had no previous problems with vapot lock even in 100 temps in city driving.

Fiddled.with the hoses, blew thru the filter, blew into the carb inlet hose, blew into fuel.supply pipe and all were clear but the pump wouldnt pump anything.

After about an hour the car started and i was able to drive about 5 miles and same thing.

Replaced the fuel pump and stull no fuel at pump outlet.

Fiddled about an hour and car started but with very weak fuel output from pump.

Was able to drive 3 miles home.

Replaced the pump with a Facet Posi-Flo 1-4 pound electric pump which pumped about a quart in about 2 minutes,

I have used this pump previously to pump fuel.from.a tank and know from.experience that it will easily zoop fuel up abiut a foot or two.

But electric pump seems to click loudly for a few seconds up to about 20 seconde indicating there is no fuel at inlet.

Drove around a few days.

Did 80 mile test drive on straight flat road at 55-70 mph averaged about 21 mpg.

I relocated the elecfric pump at a position below the fuel tank level in the engine compartment so that when disconnected fuel will siphon from the tank.  Stream is full pipe crom fuel line from tank.

Electric pump still seems dry when first activated then fills and clicking diminises indicating fuel.at intake port.

Drove about 10 miles today and electric pump again clicked loudly indicating no duel at inlet every few minutes.

As I mentioned i can easily blow thru the fuel supply line from front to rear and the fuel.will.siphon out of the front of the line .

Seems like classic vapor lock where fuel.is vaporizing between tank and pump to me or perhaps an air leak somewhere in the fuel supply line

I checked under the car and there are no fuel.leaks or broken hoses at the tank.

I was wondering if there is anything inside the tank like a filter sock in the tank that could be plugging intermittently or perhaps a leaky rubber tube inside the tank.

In all cases fuel tank was topped off and had 3/4 or more of fuel.

Ive driven the car 15000 miles over the last 5 years and have had no difficulties before this..

And since the problem occurred ive tried 3 pumps, the original, one new, and the electric all.with the same results.

I know that pulsed electric pumps but as I mentioned above I know that tbis pump will lift fuel.at least a foot and it is mounted below the tank now.

Since this just started I was wondering if perhaps it might be that the "winter gas" designed to vqporize more easily might be vaporizing in the line between the tank and pump.

Next step.is to drain the tank and remove the fuel pickup to see if there is a problem.there.

Any ideas?
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles