Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

Members
  • Total Members: 7,896
  • Latest: tdok
Stats
  • Total Posts: 139,576
  • Total Topics: 16,268
  • Online today: 253
  • Online ever: 2,670 (May 09, 2025, 01:57:20 AM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 146
  • Total: 146
F&I...more

My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

need help advice changing starter 78 2.3

Started by ToniJ1960, December 24, 2014, 01:15:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

pintoguy76

Ok when I get home I will pull a bolt from my car and go match it up at the hardware store and let you know what size to get. Its metric i'm sure, and likely grade 8.8 or possibly 10.8.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

ToniJ1960

 thamnks :) we have lots of hardware places and car parts places in st louis if I can get the right specs for the bolt grade # and all that

pintoguy76

I will see if i can find the exact thread size for you on that bolt.  If you dont live in a town with a hardware store I can pick one up for you and mail it to you...
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

ToniJ1960

 We didnt have a socket that big to take the racx bolts loose with. My friend says the starter bolts are 17 mm?

pinto_one

Glad you got the starter in safely and hope you did not get skinned up to much, as for bolts go to a pull it wrecking yard and take the bolts off a ford ranger with the 2.3 , they are the same or a ford explorer , also the same , they are metric , I think 10MM X 35MM long and use a lock washer, guess you could not take the two large bolts from the rack out, they are very tight some times ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

ToniJ1960

 the starter bolts one was missing right now it has only two in it

pintoguy76

Which bolts are you talking about? The motor mount bolts or the starter bolts?
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

ToniJ1960

 Ok I got some help and we got the starter in by removing a motor mount.

It only had 2 bolts so where do I get these bolts from?

pinto_one

Great you have the jack stands , better safe than (smashed ) sorry , use the breaker bar first to lossen the nuts , then the ratchet , then push the starter side bolt out , leave the drivers side where it is , use a pry bar (or the breaker bar to move the rack forward enough for that side to drop down , it install the drive clutch use remove the two bolts on the back of the starter , tap the nose of the starter and will come off easy, they will be a spring inside that fits between the nose and arm that pushes in the starter drive when you cranks the car, DO NOT PULL ON THE SHAFT, if you do and it come out you will have a fresh can of worms,    at the end of the shaft you will see a cupped washer , remove , next a C- Clip , remove with care , they are known to vanish if they pop off , next is remove the top cover , no need the remove the band on the back, (note if the starter is a new style it will have a rear screw ) you will see a pin on the arm that that sticks in the starter drive, remove , pull on the drive and not the shaft , should come off easy , install new drive , now put everything back where you found them, good luck , hope this helps
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

ToniJ1960

 Ok despite the freezing cold I am reafy to give this a try tomorrow.

I ordered a starter drive that I hope is the right one. Will I need a vice to put the new drive into the starter?

What size socket will I need for the steering rack bolts? Should I use a breaker bar or can I use a 1/2 ratchet? Can I do it with an open end wrench and a pipe even?

If I have to move the steering rack a little will it be enough room to put new bushings in? I have some I bought before.

I have a floor jack and two jackstands. Is it safe to put the front up o n jackstands and block the rear tires while Im under it trying to get this done?

I can put some old rims under the rear somewhere maybe?


Help me feel prepared :) thank you for whatever help you might offer advice suggestions etc.

pinto_one

Wow , too bad your so far away , but 75 bucks is not to bad , but cheeper than changing head gaskets , and could be worse trying to remove the nuts on the manifold (may snap a stud off) , real rusty after thirty years and the U bolt the holds the exhaust pipe to a bracket that bolts to the engine , is hell some times, changed out a few when I worked for a ford dealer back then, and a few on mine, so that was one for the tricks to quickly remove and replace the starter , even works on power steering also , good luck , if you want to take a wack at it let us know , we can give you a list of tools and the size of the to do the job , have a merry xmas , later , Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

dick1172762

Quote from: ToniJ1960 on December 24, 2014, 05:27:16 PM
That might depend on if you have exhaust bolts that have been in there for thirty years.
Might be worth a try Tonij
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

ToniJ1960

Quote from: dick1172762 on December 24, 2014, 05:17:47 PM
I've never had a starter in any of my 16 Pintos go bad so I'll ask this question. Can the starter be removed upward if you take the exhaust manifold off first. Sounds easyer if your in the boomdocks or in a mud field, etc, etc. Tell me before I need to know.

That might depend on if you have exhaust bolts that have been in there for thirty years.

ToniJ1960

 Thank you so I dont need to take the tie rod ends out of the spindles disconnect the power steering lines or the steering shaft good.

With that offer I might push start it and drive it to Mississippi lol I was in Natchez a few years ago long drive from St Louis but the people were so nice and the country was beautiful. Just dont ask for a map or directions at the gas stations they dont know the word map. Maybe I should have said el mapo.

And yes the starter is done for just whines my friend listened to it and said its clutch over run? I got it to start one time drove it it died, was cold, and didnt start again. Pushed it home tried to start it whines. Tried again whines. Tried again it started. Flywheel wasnt turned, and three or four times in a row I wouldnt expect to stop on the same place every time.

I was thinking its not loud enough to be contacting the flywheel, mechanic I had listen says the same thing.

He wants $75 to put one in, just spent over 300 on my other car to find out its got a blown head gasket so moneys tight now. I better learn to do some things.

dick1172762

I've never had a starter in any of my 16 Pintos go bad so I'll ask this question. Can the starter be removed upward if you take the exhaust manifold off first. Sounds easyer if your in the boomdocks or in a mud field, etc, etc. Tell me before I need to know.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

pinto_one

Yes that is a job if you do not have the tools to do it, first you have to make sure the starter is bad for sure , do not want to replace anything that is good , only the bad stuff,  you said it does not want to start , does the engine turn over when try too? does it click our buzz when you do , if it does the buzz thing the battery is just about dead, if it clicks try removing the wire that goes to the starter from the solenoid , touch that end to the battery side of the solenoid , not the battery post , if engine turns over it is the solenoid , replace that, if it does not its the starter  :o, for it to be easy to change it you have to have at least a foot off the ground , and blocked up for safety , you have two large bolts that face the front , remove them if you can, they are tight, after just pull the rack forward enough to drop the left side down enough to see the starter well, remove the bracket that holds the wire to the engine ,(11/16 socket ) and last the three bolts that hold the starter on, ( also 11/16 ) remove starter with the wire still attached , remove wire and install on new starter , reinstall in reverse order I gave you , good luck, option #2 only if it has a stick, push car to start it, drive to shop and let them do it , option #3 only if you live near 50 miles of pass Christian Mississippi , call me I would put it on for you , got one I would give you , good luck and merry X-mas, later Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

ToniJ1960

 Have a 78 wagon with 2.3 starter after all these years decided it doesnt want to start my car anymore. Corvette head gasket let go, no car for christmas :(

Ok I have to try to change the starter myself old woman under the car.

I was toild you can loosen one motor mount to raise the motor to get the starter in or out.

Some say they lower the rack. Mines power steering.

Do you or dont you have to disconnect the input shaft  from the column?

Do or dont have to disconnect steel lines?

I know I saw soneone take the tie rod end out of the spindle and it looked easy enough to do, I dont think he even took the wheels off.

One complication, if the steering shaft has to be disconnected, my steering wheel doesnt lock. Is there a way  to immobilize it?