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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Bottom end work

Started by rramjet, February 28, 2014, 09:48:37 PM

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rramjet

Sounds great. See ya in late October.

RSM

When you get back from your summer home and get started on fixing it, let me know, I'll swing by and give ya a hand, just hit me up. I miss working on Pinto's.

rramjet

Yea I've looked everything over pretty well. I think the primary give away is the deeeeep rattle on start up till there is oil pressure. I can keep that pretty quiet by starting it without setting the choke and trying to start on part throttle. That can be tricky. Flooded it one time trying to do that. It's the higher rpm of the fast idle setting that brings it on. This thing starts on the first revolution with the choke set.

It's going to get a 6 month rest on jack stands pretty soon because we are heading back to our Summer location.

I use it twice a week for one of my hobbies so been reluctant to set it down to pull the engine. Best bet is probably to find a short block and go through it but they are getting a little rare.

jeremysdad

This is exactly what I heard! Rattled on the way up, and on the way down.

Then I found my alternator bracket (upper) was broken!

Don't overlook the (sometimes too much so) in-your-face obvious! :D lol

rramjet

No knock at a constant load/speed only when accelerating or decelerating around the 45 mph point and higher.

Srt

does the 'rattle' become noticeable when you are cruising at a single sustained speed (no load)?


may be piston slap that you are hearing.
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

RSM

If you can find a builder thats the easiest route to take. Build a short block and swap it out in a day.

rramjet

No carbon in the cylinders when I pulled the head. It's not a preignition knock, I know what that sounds like. I would love for it to be something other than a rod but even if it was it's deep enough that I have to get into the engine to fix it.

I have had a "professional" mechanic listen to it and he agrees that it's rod.

RSM

You might have a detonation problem too. Like I said, rod bearings don't last long once they start going and they will make noise all the time. But...crazier things have happened lol. Was there a lot of carbon on top of the pistons when you pulled the head off?

rramjet

I'm in East Mesa in an adult park.

I'm sure it's a rod. Started after I rebuilt the head with new cam and kit and hardened exhaust seats. Had no noise before that for 3K miles but ran crappy. Now runs very nice except for the rattle sometimes on start-up and anything over about 45 mph. Interestingly it still carries 55 lbs of oil pressure and 175 temp.

Running 20/50W oil with a can of STP. Thinking about stepping up to straight 50W with some STP and see if I can go a little faster. :D

RSM

Where is your winter home at? I'm west of Phoenix about 30 miles....not quite east LA lol. Usually a rod bearing makes noise all the time and they don't last long once they start. Have you had anyone else listen to the noise? It could possible be a wrist pin?.....

rramjet

I was thinking about a quickie fix for a noisy rod bearing, (only makes noise over 45 mph), and was going to do it on a lift. I use the car pretty regularly, (below 45 mph) and didn't want to tie it up with the engine out. Another option is picking up a rebuildable 2.0 and put an overhaul kit in but 2.0's are hard to find.

Now seriously considering stuffing a 5.0/C4 in it.

The car is just a beat around for our Winter home in AZ but I've kinda grown fond of it.

amc49

Yes, and why you pull it. Getting the oil to quit dripping in your face and getting the work done while keeping it clean to avoid damage, and lastly keeping surfaces clean and dry from oil rolling around edges to spoil your pan gasket sealing are good reasons to yank the motor, to me anyway. When you get older your neck will thank you for it too.

jeremysdad

Pull the motor. Put it on a stand. Do the work you're needing to do. Thank yourself when you're not redoing it in 400 miles cause grit and grime found their way into somewhere they shouldn't have been.

:) Also a good time for painting, cleaning of the engine bay, and generally improving things you never noticed were wrong/not to your liking. Take the extra time to do it right once. You'll thank yourself later. :)

Getting ready to do this myself to replace my flexplate once the weather gets warm (and stays that way lol). Will also be doing gaskets on the bottom end, possible transmission rebuild, sheet metal patching, etc. Quicker and easier to just do it once and be done with it. :)

Ymmv. :)

RSM

I've pulled a 2.0 out, tore it down, honed the cylinders, installed new rings and rod bearings, put it back together, reinstalled it and was driving it in less than 8 hours. Doesn't make sense to go thru the hassle of dropping a pan and working on your back unless you don't have a way to pull the engine.

amc49

Yes, the answer determines the method there...................

Srt

what is it that you need to do ?
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

pintoguy76

I wouldnt mess with it. Its an hours work to yank the engine out and you can even take the transmission with it if you like. Thats how I do it...no need to work under the car for hours and hours with limited visibility and less clean environments.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

Srt

if you can get it on a lift that's a real good thing.  necessity dictated my learning curve years back!


and speaking of backs, mine is shot after years of leaning over fenders!!!


if you can lift it then by all means do it.
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

amc49

I'd pull LIGHTLY on the oil pump driveshaft, if you pop the clip off by pulling too hard, you'll never find it until it goes through a bearing. Pull just light enough to ascertain it has a clip on it.

rramjet

Quote from: Srt on March 01, 2014, 04:05:44 AM

it can be done.  no need to remove the hood or radiator  (unless you want to)


disconnect the battery & remove the key!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

disconnect the upper / lower radiator hoses (obviously drain the cooling system) remove the nuts from the bottom of the motor mounts.


using a piece of wood under the oil pan, with your floor jack raise the motor just enough to make the lower studs on the motor mounts clear the frame bracket. 


then slowly lower the motor and the lower motor mount studs will (if not real old & sloppy) come to rest on the frame mount but NOT in the frame mount hole.


if the studs come to rest on the top of the frame mount then pull all the pan bolts and pry away from the block.  allow the pan to drop & rest on the steering rack / crossmember.


with the pan down you will be able to access the oil pump mounting bolts. there are two of them.  you will need to remove them, then drop the pump into the sump of the oil pan.  once this is done pull the pan forward and down and do what you need to do!


there is a special tool that you will need to get to remove the oil pump mounting bolts.  snap on has them so i am sure others do also. 


ONE CAUTION: as new early 2.0 motors had a retaining device on the oil pump/distributor drive shaft that would prevent the shaft from dropping into the pan upon removal of the pump.  IF yours doesn't have this retaining clip then PLEASE remember to ensure that the drive shaft is STILL in place when you go to button it all up!!!!!


in the past i have done this many times and it never failed. if you have an automatic trans car there may be a bit more work to do.


go slow! scope it out. make sure you have all the tools ahead of time. think twice, "do" once!

Thanks for the great detail. Plan on doing it on a lift if I go this route.

74 PintoWagon

Well, can't speak for earlier years but I look at mine and it would be easier/quicker to just yank the motor, sure beats the hassle of working under the car that's getting very old,LOL.. :( :D
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Srt

Quote from: rramjet on February 28, 2014, 09:48:37 PM
Anyone ever do any bottom end work on a 2000 with the engine in the car? Is it possible to lift the engine high enough, (assuming exhaust disconnected and probably hood and radiator removed), to get the pan off?


it can be done.  no need to remove the hood or radiator  (unless you want to)


disconnect the battery & remove the key!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

disconnect the upper / lower radiator hoses (obviously drain the cooling system) remove the nuts from the bottom of the motor mounts.


using a piece of wood under the oil pan, with your floor jack raise the motor just enough to make the lower studs on the motor mounts clear the frame bracket. 


then slowly lower the motor and the lower motor mount studs will (if not real old & sloppy) come to rest on the frame mount but NOT in the frame mount hole.


if the studs come to rest on the top of the frame mount then pull all the pan bolts and pry away from the block.  allow the pan to drop & rest on the steering rack / crossmember.


with the pan down you will be able to access the oil pump mounting bolts. there are two of them.  you will need to remove them, then drop the pump into the sump of the oil pan.  once this is done pull the pan forward and down and do what you need to do!


there is a special tool that you will need to get to remove the oil pump mounting bolts.  snap on has them so i am sure others do also. 


ONE CAUTION: as new early 2.0 motors had a retaining device on the oil pump/distributor drive shaft that would prevent the shaft from dropping into the pan upon removal of the pump.  IF yours doesn't have this retaining clip then PLEASE remember to ensure that the drive shaft is STILL in place when you go to button it all up!!!!!


in the past i have done this many times and it never failed. if you have an automatic trans car there may be a bit more work to do.


go slow! scope it out. make sure you have all the tools ahead of time. think twice, "do" once!
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

amc49

I'd have to pass there, any time I wanted to go in there was enough issue to remove the engine. I would anyway except for the most minor of issues.

rramjet

Anyone ever do any bottom end work on a 2000 with the engine in the car? Is it possible to lift the engine high enough, (assuming exhaust disconnected and probably hood and radiator removed), to get the pan off?