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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Fresh Motor Won't Start.

Started by From_Jonah, December 14, 2013, 07:17:10 PM

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amc49

Best thing to do is dump decel valve if you can in your state. Many inspect guys don't know enough to look for them as well.

'too much gas getting through the top half'..........................LOL, believe me your carb guy had no idea of what he was talking about as well..........................................

As tonij says, you always look for screwing mixture screw too far in or out too far as indicator the carb needs cleaning. You must get some effect there. Screwing out will be less and hard to tell but needs to be some change there. Screwing in should definitely kill motor or try to but later emission engines will have less effect either way since the idle flows have been reduced for emission reasons. If you can screw a screw in or out fully and nothing changes the carb is dirty and needs cleaning.

ToniJ1960

 I know they stopped using decel valves after a certain year, mines a 78 and it never had one. I forgot what year they stopped in its in my chiltons though.

One thing I do, if my carb is under suspicion, is turn in the mixture screw far enough to see if it will slow down and kill the motor.

After I had my motor rebuilt in 1988, I had a prolem I think maybe it was too fast idle. When I found I couldnt affect the motor with the mixture screw I called the guy who rebuilt it, and he said` too much gas getting through the top half`. I had no idea what he meant back then. But I found out the power valve diaphragm had ruptured or tore, and the vacuum signal wasnt holding the power valve up so it was providing enrichment at all times rather than just under load )low vacuum). After I replaced it the engine idled a lot better and of course it got better mileage. Maybe wasnt quite as fast.
But thats an easy test, turn in the mixture screw to see if it will idle down and cut out. Later use a vacuum gauge to get the mixture close.

There was already some long debate here in another thread on the decel valve thing. It gets confusing.

74 PintoWagon

Quote from: amc49 on January 04, 2014, 04:29:45 PMI've never paid to have any car of mine fixed by someone else over a period of some 40 years+ now. THAT'S cheap............

Well, I always figured I was perfectly capable of destroying my own chit and not having to pay someone else to do it for me, LOL.. ;D ;D
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

You misconstrue, go back and read again.. No one said to change all the parts, only which ones could possibly be an issue.......if one uses brain and checks parts for good/bad first instead of just throwing new parts at it then often maybe buy one part only. I've done it so many times I cannot count.

I sold and installed many rebuilt carbs and I reiterate this simple fact. No way will you ever get a new rebuilt carb that matches your engine better than the factory one that was on it to begin with. Absolutely no way. It was even like that to a certain extent back in the '70s when there were so many more carbs available to pick from then and much much worse now with reduced inventory. Some people back then as well simply did not understand that and insisted on the new carb anyway. Many came back complaining later of how car did not run quite as well with new carb or get as good gas mileage. Take the old one and rebuild it and back on car and better almost all the time. People just have it ingrained in their DNA that new is better and absolutely not necessarily true at all.

I am so much cheaper than you can imagine. I generally often rebuild carbs using no tune up or parts kits at all (maybe making one main body and/or throttle body gasket myself) and they almost 100% always run perfectly afterwards. Piece of mind by buying new carb is for those who do not understand them, I've never replaced one on my personal vehicles in my entire life and often tear them down to fix one exact part since I know pretty much what's wrong with it before doing so. Often I can repair and reuse the same part..............

Same thing with modern PCM controlled cars, I fix all my own issues and extremely rare to not get it right the first time. I've never paid to have any car of mine fixed by someone else over a period of some 40 years+ now. THAT'S cheap............

jtowndown

I like how you guys scream at him for wanting to change out his carburetor, then tell him 15 different parts in the carburetor that should be replaced lol.  Not all people like rebuilding carburetor sometimes piece of mind is worth the extra money.  I for one am a cheap bastard lol.

amc49

As could a bad decel valve if you have one on there and it failed in the necessary way to make high idle.

The being able to lower speed by simply pulling back on linkage says issue there though. Make sure the pressfit where linkage sideplate joins the throttle shaft end is tight, if loose you can often peen the area with a slightly rounded small tip punch to tighten it back up.

Pinturbo75

have you adjusted the choke on this ? that could be one of your issues
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

amc49

As he says. You mean 'dieseling' or 'afterrunning', often an indicator the throttle at idle is too far open and you describe that in other ways. You need to do what it takes to get the throttle back on true zero, it is sticking or something holding it slightly open and the cause of your issues.

Poor gas leads to that as well, and why in the mid '70s all these cars started getting the electrical solenoids on the idle. The normal throttle setting to get even 600 was enough to cause afterrun and the solenoid drops lower than normal idle to truly close the throttle and stop it. Why there are TWO settings when you have a solenoid, idle and all the way off. You check them both. Of course does not matter if enough friction in cable or linkage to override the throttle spring to let throttle stick. Sounds like you are there, the statement about being able to force linkage to zero and then speed lowers says so.

Look enough times and you will even see the engine diesel to crank back up and RUN BACKWARDS, seen it plenty of times, the crank is turning the wrong direction............

74 PintoWagon

It tries to keep running because of the high idle, check your linkage maybe it's not coming all the way back, also check your timing a lot of advance will increase idle speed.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

From_Jonah

I mean choke out as in it would sit there and try to keep running but coughs basically and finally die. It doesn't Do that since I rebuilt the motor though. And okay. I'll check the spring when I get home. And also, it never idle down. It just stays at around 1500 even when it's warm.
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

74 PintoWagon

What he said!!.. Mine idles at 1300 on the fast idle and 600 after it heats up, seems to work ok that way..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

'it would always choke out when I cut it off.'

Never heard a description like that in 40 years, what are you trying to say there? ALL motors 'choke out' when you turn them off.

'If I turn the throttle adjust screw out though, nothing changes.'

Not rocket science, bend over and see if the screw is out in space and not touching linkage, obvious that will do nothing but you must make the effort to look. Car won't fix itself.

'if I pull up on the throttle, it idles at a reasonable speed until I let go.'

That has all the earmarks of a not strong enough throttle return spring and a very dangerous condition, don't fix it later, fix it NOW.

You should be able to lower speed with screw to where engine dies or carb not right. Linkage, cable issue, dragging may all be a problem. You always treat not returning to 100% dead idle as a safety issue, enough people have been killed by it in one way or another.

MTX or ATX? Idle should be around 700-900. Lower is better if smooth.

From_Jonah

I thought I had needed one before because it would always choke out when I cut it off. Come to think of it though, it never does that now. But I'm trying to work through the little kinks here and there. I got it a little better adjusting the ignition timing. If I turn the throttle adjust screw out though, nothing changes. However, if I pull up on the throttle, it idles at a reasonable speed until I let go. What is and ideal idle speed? Right now it idles close to 1500 rpm. Then again, I may think it's idling too fast because I'm not used to hearing it without exhaust.

1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

74 PintoWagon

What makes you think you need to replace the carb??, it was working good before the re build, right?, might want to go back re check everything, cam/ignition timing, vacuum leak and what ever else you have, lack of power and high idle don't mean the carb is bad, probably just need some tuning.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

From_Jonah

Oh okay. I guess having it off and putting it back on could still cause problems. As far as I know the carb is original. I'll try to check for vacuum problems in a little bit. I went through the PCV system yesterday and got it all straightened out.
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

amc49

You don't replace a carb for high idle, that just indicates not smart enough to adjust it out or fix it. No insult intended of course. Several ways of getting that back down...........vacuum leak is an obvious one. You should be able to choke carb out to completely kill engine by dropping idle set screw more and more, not having it means something MAYBE wrong with carb but 95% of them are fixable. You have to play the idle mixture screws and idle speed screw against each other.

Hoping you still have original carb on it. Only way they can high idle to not be fixed is throttle shaft leaks from wear and even that can usually be fixed. Of course corrosion from ethanol can cause issues now.

At our shop back in the old days we were known for never buying new carb to fix and customers loved not getting plugged with the huge bills of doing so. In our view the original carb was the one best metered to your motor if stock, any over the counter ones are condensed from the 200-300 different ones used to maybe 50 (don't be surprised if only 25 now!)  part numbers overall and you get shortchanged there for sure. All the while they are telling you how much better the new carb will perform. Ain't no way. Some are close but others are terribly far off, and why we quit pushing new ones back in the day. It got much worse as emissions carbs got so customized to each vehicle and motor. I saw so-called 'absolutely correct carb by number and application' not run at all and then rebuild old one and runs perfect more than once.

Although I've done it no need to cut filter either, the first OC will show you, look at the oil in strong light and you can generally see the 'glitter' in there to make the oil look like liquid gold. Let the oil settle and then pout it off to see what remains. Depending on engine if race or stock, oil changed after 30 minutes running or up to 250 miles. Make the next one after that a little sooner than your norm then go to the norm.

If not driving 20 miles you can drive with open header but any issues past that will be with the police.

From_Jonah

Okay awesome. Well, I've been driving it. It seems to be lacking a little power. And it idles way too high. I really need to replace the carburetor.
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

74 PintoWagon

I use a filter cutter you don't want t put garbage in the filter, you can use a hacksaw right at the lip just be careful. I mean run the crap out of it, lol..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

From_Jonah

Okay awesome. DO you open it with a saws all or what? And what do you mean wring its neck?

Thanks all of you for the help by the way!
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

74 PintoWagon

On a fresh motor(with flat tappet cam)after the 20-30 minute break in I dump all the oil and cut open the filter, that tells if everything went well or not, if it's clean I then put a fresh batch of oil in with a new filter(Wix), then take it out and wring it's neck for about an hour, then I cut the filter open again and check it, if it's nice and clean I figure I have a good motor, put a new filter and add a quart and I'm good to go. Worked for me for 30+ years,lol.. Yes you can run it with an open header, just take it easy in case you're a tad lean.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

From_Jonah

Okay. How quickly do I need to change it? And will it be okay to drive it to the exhaust shop with just a long tube header?
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

amc49

Luck.............make that first oil change pretty quick.................

74 PintoWagon

Congrats, glad to hear you got it running..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dga57

Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

From_Jonah

She's alive! After a few timing adjustments and one blown fuel line, she's running good! Can't wait to take it for a test drive this weekend.
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

amc49

'It'll turn over..............'

Says the solenoid is working.

blupinto

This might have been covered, but I failed to see it... dids you check the starter solenoid? On a '74 it's mounted on the firewall. I sold my beloved green '73 wagon to a dear friend (Pinto Barn) and between he and Pinto Wizard (Doctor) Joey, they figured out why she refused to start. The solenoid was dead. :)
One can never have too many Pintos!

From_Jonah

Okay awesome  that clears up a lo. The book was confusing me.
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)

74 PintoWagon

Yes, which ever post the the #1 plug wire is.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

From_Jonah

So pointed at #1 as in the number one post on the distributor cap correct?
1977 wagon - baby blue full restoration project.

1980 wagon - (77 front clip) converted to cruising wagon. (Sold in 2015. Can't find her again.)