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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

New Motor, Aluminum Radiator & Electric Fan Questions

Started by 80_2.3_ESS, August 26, 2013, 11:36:05 AM

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Wittsend

I have a pusher fan in my '73.  I was at a swapmeet and some guy was begging me to take his generic electric fans (4) for $1 each.  How could I resist!  He didn't want to take them home.

  I removed the fan from the shroud, reversed the blade and made a mount. I also modified the cradle and bumped up from the 17" to the stock 20" radiator.  Since I installed a 2.3 Turbo I had the harness wiring and fan control box from the Turbo Coupe.  It works quite well.  When it activates it cools as effectively as the Turbo Coupe did.  The one issue with my install is the exposed blades.  As time allows I'll probably put some mesh in to protect fingers.



71HANTO

Quote from: 80_2.3_ESS on August 26, 2013, 11:36:05 AM
To get the most out of the motor, I was thinking about running an electric fan to get it off the motor. Does anybody have any experience / done this mod to their car? Currently I am running the stock radiator, and haven't had any issues.

While I have the motor out, and adding the electric fan, I thought it might be a good time to add the 22" aluminum racing radiator from Speedway. How well does the aluminum radiators work? And can I use an electric fan with it to maximize the cooling?

I know the aluminum radiator and electric fan are probably overkill for the car. Hell, with the stock set-up, I am staying in the lower 1/3 of the temperature range on the gauge in the car.

Either way, I want to run the electric fan though, I want the most out of this motor that I can with the items I have.

Since no one jumped in on this, you have a lot of choices for cooling fans. If you go with an electric fan, you can get either a push type (goes in front of the radiator) or a pull type (goes in back of the radiator). You may be able to just reverse the wiring on some to go push or pull but check the instructions. If you are looking for better cooling with your stock fan blade and you don't have a fan shroud, add one. They can make a big difference in slow traffic, etc.  Ford also used viscous fan mounts on some cars. The idea is to have it slip at high RPM to cut down on drag. They tend to be a little heavy however. If you are looking at cutting parasitic drag on the engine with better cooling, a flex fan may be the best of both worlds on the cheap (especially when using a fan shroud). Maybe others can chime in on this.

71HANTO
"Life is a series of close ones...'til the last one"...cfpjr

74 PintoWagon

As long as you get the cheap stuff it don't have the long life, I use nothing but Castrol in my street vehicles, wife's truck has almost 500,000 on it still runs great and don't burn oil.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

I used Walmart too until I realized they slipped the long life in there. I use Walmart oil in my cars, conventional straight 30 weight and 9K oil changes. Of course, that's on PCM controlled engines which run so much cleaner than these it's not funny.

HOSS429

i dont know what is in the 80 pinto i just bought but it is still green and good after sitting 8 years .. surprised me ....

74 PintoWagon

I use the cheap stuff from Crap-Mart and mix my own half the price of pre mix, never have any problems..
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Antifreeze/16645420
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

No trouble with water pumps at all.

I have 4 running cars at this time, I am an expert at what can go wrong as they sit, or my perennial hatred of ethanol.

Cast iron is cast iron, some has more nickel than other along with other things, the main difference is now stuff has gone to thinwall casting techniques, why parts crack easier now. Metallurgy and tight tolerances have little to do with each other, the tolerances are not even that much tighter, look at engine specs nowadays. Or almost the exact same. They could be achieved just as tight in the '60s, just done now with more repeatability.

You have to have electrical power flow to get electrolysis, none in a car sitting. Ground the engine well and it disappears anyway. Never had any issue with it at all, but I generally add another ground or two.

I inherited a Focus using Ford gold, in the year I owned it the coolant had reacted and turned the plastic reservoir PURPLE. Dumped coolant, cleaned the reservoir and it is still light green two years later, no more rust like before. Problem is gone and before, it was not a little, it was a lot.

Someone with GM product should be glad the Dexcool fiasco never bit him, there are thousands of guys out there who got bit hard. The coolant as first released was garbage and GM had to work on it a couple times before it quit damaging engines.




bbobcat75

just my 2 cents but have had good luck with using what was in the car the day it rolled off the car lot, ,my 2006 explorer has the ford gold coolant and have not had any issues other then the radator did fail and was a nationwide recall on them. but the fluid has been changed 2 since new at 75,000 miles and still going strong!!

my two bobcats both have oldschool green with water wetter added for the hot summers here in fl, plus both being a/c cars!!!

the caddy and other imports i have had always added oem coolants!! keeps factory warrantys and no issues later in life!!!

good luck!!!
1975 mercury bobcat 2.8 auto
1975 ford pinto - drag car - 2.3l w/t5 trans - project car

71HANTO

I agree that every 6 months may be overkill for most situations but there are other variables to consider. Is the car going to sit for long periods? The metallurgy of the older cast iron blocks is not as good as the tight tolerance modern high temp blocks. This can set up bi-metal electrolysis with the aluminum causing corrosion (think of your battery tray). Tap water that has been "softened" can be worse than "hard" water because it is softened by adding salt. You said you had no issues with running old school coolent for 3 -4 years but did you go through water pumps? I also agree that Water Wetter may be overkill for anything except extreme driving conditions like racing or running your air in the desert. Some of us like insurance and some of us like living on the edge...71HANTO

http://www.forum.w116.org/auto-torque/bi-metal-engines-coolants/
"Life is a series of close ones...'til the last one"...cfpjr

amc49

Surely you jest, they've been using aluminum in car cooling systems since the '60s, and the coolant will protect it nicely. I never change old school green that is supposed to change every year, I run it 3-4 years or until I pop a hose and have an excuse to change it. It works even better than the late extended drain 100,000 mile coolant so highly touted nowadays, that stuff is garbage to me. It takes up to 6 months to get max protection, or what the old school gives instantly. I learned the lesson on Focus cars that kept slowly rusting the clear plastic reservoirs, going to old stuff stopped 100% of it. Ford orange or yellow, whatever you want to call it, GM Dexcool, the commonly sold green that 'mixes with all types and brands, and good for 100,000 miles' at parts stores, all that stuff is trash. I'll be crying when they drop the original stuff, I'll bet right now they are already cutting it to mix in more of the commonly used stuff used now. I'll know though by looking at that coolant tank.

Every six months................LOL. I can pull aluminum parts 10 years later and virtually no damage there at all. The outside of the part will be far worse. Not in a hard water area, I have never used distilled water in coolant or batteries either.

The one or two degrees you get from water wetter are worthless for the price you pay. I sure sold plenty of that stuff to people at the parts store though, and thank you for the incentive there.

I've never done an electric fan conversion, but I do know one thing. The commonly available race type electric fans are garbage, they will not last anywhere as long as a good factory fan intended for a vehicle to drive on the street day in and day out. When Detroit first went en masse to electric fans I predicted there were going to be lots of engine fails due to fans dying. Of course that was based on my thinking on electric fans used on race vehicles, which didn't last for spit. Products like Flex-a lite, Hayden, and such. The engine fails didn't happen. I ran through a string of FWD cars, two Tempos, a Contour, two Focus. Get this, not ONE of the factory fans has failed yet, and all cars are still running. The oldest Tempo is an '88 and even though the fan melted at the connector, it still works fine. Now I'm not the only guy on the planet, but I didn't get very many new fan requests at the parts store while I was there either. Detroit stepped up and did its' thing, and those fans are among the most reliable parts on earth to me. So, rule #1 to me would be see if you can find a factory fan and shroud that can work there or be made to work, it should be bulletproof. It might be nice to get a two speed one which is the rage now, single speed but put in a resistor and get two speeds out of it. Running on low they impact your idle less if you are not running a PCM with idle control. Those fans can pull a walloping amount of current at switch on time.

71HANTO

Modified-If you want max life from an aluminum radiator, put in aluminum compatible coolant with corrosion resistance. I would inspect it every 6 months and change it as recommended by the coolant manufacturer. Look for a white slime coating the inside. This is the start of the aluminum breakdown. This goes with aluminum heads on an engine also (found this out the hard way). Buy the pre-mixed or use distilled water in a 50/50 "mix your own" type. Water Wetter is something I would add also because it coats the inside with water soluble oil, aids in heat transfer, and helps lube the water pump. I am only talking going from stock brass to aluminum. If you stay with brass, you will not need to pay as much attention.

71HANTO
"Life is a series of close ones...'til the last one"...cfpjr

amc49

The big bugaboo of aluminum radiators is that they are much harder to fix leaks on than brass ones.

80_2.3_ESS

This winter, I will be dropping in a new motor into my 80 Pinto. Motor is a bored & stroked 2.3 (now a little over 2.5 liters), flat-top pistons (with valve reliefs), ported head w/ valve-job etc. etc.

To get the most out of the motor, I was thinking about running an electric fan to get it off the motor. Does anybody have any experience / done this mod to their car? Currently I am running the stock radiator, and haven't had any issues.

While I have the motor out, and adding the electric fan, I thought it might be a good time to add the 22" aluminum racing radiator from Speedway. How well does the aluminum radiators work? And can I use an electric fan with it to maximize the cooling?

I know the aluminum radiator and electric fan are probably overkill for the car. Hell, with the stock set-up, I am staying in the lower 1/3 of the temperature range on the gauge in the car.

Either way, I want to run the electric fan though, I want the most out of this motor that I can with the items I have. Mated with the T5 I just put in, and the posi 3.55's in 8" in the back, the car should be able to move along pretty good.

Thanks!
Nick in CT

1980 2.3L Pinto ESS