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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Opinions on paint - stay original or change?

Started by popbumper, April 15, 2010, 10:46:35 AM

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smallfryefarm

Thats kind of a hard one personally i would go with a color that i liked to look at and not worry about the factory pinto colors. You say your staying unmodified but you can still have a nice piece of eye candy that will turn some heads, so i would say pick a awesome color that you would like to see in the driveway everyday. Then most important part, take it over to ohsix9's house and buddy up with him,  :lol: :lol: he sounds like he can lay down some color.
Smallfryefarms Horsepower Ranch

Starsky and Hutch

Thats a hard one popbump ,,Id say thats a choice you must make alone,but if it was me you know where id be coming from .....stove bolt stock!!!!!
1977 Pinto Accent stripe group Runabout                                                                    interior(Code PN) Color (Code R2)

OhSix9

Chris,

the materials list pretty much stays the same.  pull any dents and rough the area with 36/50 grit down to the metal and give the filler some tooth to stick to.if the body filler will be thicker than say a 16th use a medium or long strand fiberglass filler to built it out then use the upol over top.  finalize the bodywork and wipe everything down with a final prep to remove any dirt oil. etch prime any bare metal . even a single spray bomb of this stuff goes a long long way since you dont have to go over places you dont break through.  if f the old paint is in good shape and it only has the one factory paint job on it there is no reason to strip way down. typically you would follow up the etch with several complete coats of hi build primer, block sand and repeat. if alot of the old apint is really good you can often spot prime your repairs and use it much like the first complete primer coat and block it all out much in the manner of a scuff and paint.  anyways either way consider the process. primer, block, final putty and fill any imperfections / pinholes also now is the time to apply any seam sealer you may want to use. prime and block again then typically spray a final coat of primer that is overreduced as a sealer, flash it off and then wet on wet your selected color coat followed by clear if so desired.   the treatment of the undercar is the same as before.  por 15 then undercoat and paint or whatever you wanna do

thats it in a nutshell

lets see usc makes a nice finishing putty called icing that takes hardener.  stay away from the air dry stuff at the auto parts store its junk. sand paper will typically be 36 ish grit to rough up where you want to bondo, 80 grit for the majority of the rough work. block the first time with 180 2nd time cut with 240 finish with 320 then paint color.  honestly this is one of the most important things. cheap paper sucks.

house of Kolor is great paint but pretty pricey to learn with.  If this is your first try and you intend to do it all yourself get a decent gravity feed hvlp type spray gun and a good mask. 99 percent of a nice paint job is in the preparation before the first coat gets sprayed.

OhSix'
Modest beginnings start with the single blow of a horn man..    Now when you get through with this thing every dickhead in the world is gonna wanna own it.   Do you know anything at all about the internal combustion engine?

Virgil to Sid

phils toys

i  would probly go with  newer type piant from my understanding the older paint was baked on  the newer does not need that,from what you have detailed in your thread go with what ever color and style paint job you want, the car is no longer "original" with some of the minor mods and up grades you have and will do. now the car is an extension of you and the way you want it. any way you look at it is still a pinto and will always get attion  for being"i rember when ..."
phil
2006, 07,08 ,10 Carlisle 3rd stock pinto 4 years same place
2007 PCCA East Regional Best Wagon
2008 CAHS Prom Coolest Ride
2011,2014 pinto stampede

Bigtimmay

well depending on how much you wanna spend and what you think would look good be that a stock appearance scheme or a full on wild show scheme with about 100 colors and 1000's of graphics lol thats all up to you ive had my hand in quite a few full on show cars and a few ground up restos in originality and ill tell you the same thing i told them its your car your gunna have to pick what you want on it im not the one who gunna have to look at it everyday and say man i wish i woulda done this the first time.

Its always easier to do it right the first time.

As for the older/newer paint debate id have to say hads downNewer and my favorite kind is House of Kolor. House of Kolor paints/clears are the best when properly sprayed . Last car we used it on was a 88 s10 with a fullsize frontend on it and before that was a 97 civic show car and it was a silver base with planet green candy. When you looked into the paint in person it was so smooth and just looked like a mirror .Heres a link to some pics of the civic
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/341790


House of Kolor has so many colors that if you cant find one that would look good you obviously didnt look . Their paint costs more but you get wat you payed for.
1978 Mercury Bobcat 2.3t swapped.Always needs more parts!

dga57

Quote from: popbumper on April 15, 2010, 11:17:03 AM
If it were my car, I'd stay Pinto-correct in my color selection, but I'd go with my favorite color. 

Dwayne :smile:


Yeah, that's what I meant.

Dwayne :smile:


Dwayne:

Yes, hope to get a variety of inputs - thanks for yours! What do you mean by "Pinto-correct"? Does that mean only using a color that was available for the Pinto at that time?

Chris
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

Norman Bagi

Wow, depends.  If you went down to bare metal (meaning inside doors, trunk, etc.) then paint it any color you want, you all ready did the work for that, the brighter the better.  However if you didn't do a complete tear down, I personally cannot stand a paint job when you open the hood or trunk and see a different color or remnants thereof.  On the other hand if you have an all original car and are going to restore the interior original, etc. then I would go original paint to match it to the day it left Ford and found its way in to your home.

popbumper

OhSix9:

  This is REALLY great info and I appreciate the detailed response. QUESTION: If I am NOT going down to bare metal (and I am not), how would you change the materials list that you suggested? Thanks!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

OhSix9

forget the original style paints. even if you could get them its a major pita and they dont resist fading and cracking like any of the new stuff.

are you going all the way down to steel?
here are some of the products we have been using that are effective and budget friendly

marhyde makes a pretty good single stage etch primer that requires no catalyst to go right over the bare metal.  we have found a fantastic and well priced body filler called UPOL lightweight gold.   spreads really nice, sands like butter even the next day, goes on fine enough and without pinholes that it doesnt need finishing putty and its cheap like dirt.

in the realm of paint if they have not gone all waterborne in your area yet the nason stuff from basf is cheap,  decently usable and available everywhere. standox is nice stuff on the more expensive side of life.   single stage or b/c can work with a single stage giving you more of the factory "look" without the need to use 30 year old paint technology.

I am using a single stage urethane base and when i finalize the whole body sometime next year we are just gonna scuff and clear the whole thing after the graphics are painted et all.

if you want to do the underside but don't want to use that crappy asphalt undercoat por or prime then get a shutz gun and a gallon of rubberized rockerguard followed by paint.

woo hoo fun.

Good luck, I'm out to spray some primer.

OhSix'
Modest beginnings start with the single blow of a horn man..    Now when you get through with this thing every dickhead in the world is gonna wanna own it.   Do you know anything at all about the internal combustion engine?

Virgil to Sid

blupinto

I can't vouch for enamel-versus-urethane but as for color itself, I prefer keeping the original color. One, because it coincides with the VIN- door tag. Two (at least for me), it's one of the colors that were out there in '76. Three, because that's what the car was born with. I'm a sentimental fool so it follows that I would rather keep the original colors of my cars, even though they're not particularily my favorite colors. In the end follow your heart. What do YOU want to see every time you go to drive your car?  I hope this helps. :D
One can never have too many Pintos!

popbumper

Quote from: Fred Morgan on April 15, 2010, 11:35:17 AM
It's your car and your money to paint so you should paint the color you want, not what onother person want's.  Fred   :)

Agreed Fred, not asking for paint color suggestions, just looking for opinions and arguments for/against originality and paint types.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Fred Morgan

It's your car and your money to paint so you should paint the color you want, not what onother person want's.  Fred   :)
Fred Morgan- Missing from us...
January 20th 1951-January 6th 2014

Beloved PCCA Parts Supplier and Friend to many.
Post your well wishes,
http://www.fordpinto.com/in-memory-of-our-fallen-pinto-heros/fred-morgan-23434/

popbumper

If it were my car, I'd stay Pinto-correct in my color selection, but I'd go with my favorite color. 

Dwayne :smile:
[/quote]

Dwayne:

Yes, hope to get a variety of inputs - thanks for yours! What do you mean by "Pinto-correct"? Does that mean only using a color that was available for the Pinto at that time?

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

dga57

Wow, Chris!  There will probably be as many different opinions on this as there are members!  Since you asked, here's mine:

Modern paints are superior in almost every way to the paints of yesteryear.  Unless you are trying to build a 100 point show car, I'd say go with modern paint.

As for color, staying original is definitely best if you want to show the car competitively as it keep your paint codes accurate, etc.  Personally, my feeling is that when you've taken a car apart to the extent that you have, any color you desire should be okay to put back on it.  If it were my car, I'd stay Pinto-correct in my color selection, but I'd go with my favorite color. 

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

popbumper

Hi all:

  Anyone who has been following my restoration thread knows that my wagon is pretty much a stripped down shell at this point. The EXCITING news is that I have secured my storage spot for the next year, so I no longer have to worry about what I can/cannot do, since I have the space to do it in.

Back to the "stripped shell" premise. YES, I AM GOING TO RESTORE/REPAINT THE BODY/INTERIOR, since it "makes sense" to. I have to ask - for those who have had the option, or would be in the same position:

1) Is ORIGINAL (color) paint the BEST way to go? Why/why not? Is originality important?
2) Is ORIGINAL (formulation) paint the BEST way to go? Should I use enamel or modern urethane?

Trying to get an impression from the forum audience. Original >seems< to be best, but trying to get opinions. THis car is in no way going to be "ultra-modified", so I have no desire to go "wild". But I'd like to change it up a bit, possibly.

THANKS!

Chris



Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08