I ran into a problem with my Pinto just the other day. I believe that my ignition module is fried, but I'd like some help on knowing what the problem is or might be if not the module.
the problem is that my starter is cranking, and the carb's getting gas, but there isn't a spark the cap to plugs. I've check the coil, soleniod, and the cap and rotor. I don't think it could be the vacuum advance, because to my understanding it would only miss horribly while running and maybe die.
I'm just looking for some help so that i don't spend money on crap I dont need, at least that I don't need now.
Well thanks for any and all help in advance,
Runabout80
1980 Pinto Runabout(In Progress)
What works sometimes is to give the ignition box a good whack with a screwdriver handle. If it has spark after doing that, you know the box is bad. Otherwise, I would check the pickup coil (inside the distributor) with an ohm meter. Also check to see if you are getting voltage to the coil.
One time many years ago, I had the same problem on a car with a 2.3 in it. Engine would crank, carb had fuel, but there was no spark. It took me an embarrasingly long time to figure out what the problem was. The distributor wasn't turning because the timing belt broke!
If you check the things StrawBoss talked about, the only other thing it could be is the ignition box. I'd check the timing belt first though. Pull the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor turns as someone cranks the starter.
hey guys, thanks for letting me pick your brains a bit. straw boss, I'm in the same boat as you were. My timing belt's broke, and I found out by just checking the belt for tension with a screwdriver and it didn't move a bit when the starter was cranked. man I feel like an idiot for not thinking about that earlier, but it doesn't occur as an idea because it's covered by that shroud. even though I feel like a moron because I've replaced the module and the voltage regulator, so I think I'll add in a condenser when I replace the belt just so I now all my ignition is good...
but man's it's embarassing not thinking of something that simple before I replaced the ignition module and regulator. well thanks for the help, it saved me from a longer time without my beloved pinto and not being able to go anywhere... including moving to tennessee in less than three weeks.
Well, I know how you feel. When it happened to me, I was working on a customer's car in a service station back in my mechanic days. One thing about it, you won't ever make that mistake again!
where bouts in TN ya comin to 80 Runabout? I'm bout 60 mi east of Knoxville
I'm heading to Nashville, gonna go to Nashvile Auto-Diesel College for a year. Gonna bring the pinto with me I hope, she's gonna make the trek either on a trailer or just cruising. Gotta be down there by the 31st.
I might as well ask this now as I'm about to get working on replacing the timing belt on the 80. I'd like to know if there are any particular points that could prove to be a pain in the butt. And would anyone happen to have any exploded views of what I'll be looking at, maybe from a Chiltons or something of the like?
the reason I'd like some help is becuase neither myself or my father have done a timing belt, timing chains yes, but not a belt like on the 2.3.
And another little question is, are there base marks for each point on the belt(dist, crank, cam)? because if there are we won't necessarily need the timing light, but if we'll have to fiddle with the timing to get it right, that's anotehr can of worms.
Thanks for the help in advance, again.
I think your best bet would be to get a Chilton's or Haynes manual. I have the Haynes, and it is pretty good at showing what needs to be done to replace the timing belt.
Make sure the cam and auxillary shaft will turn. On the car I mentioned earlier with the broken belt, the reason why it broke was the camshaft was siezed. The customer didn't want to spend the money to get it fixed, so I don't know what ever happened to the car.
alright, right now I just hope my belt broke because of age, I don't need anything else to worry about right now. but are there timing marks for the cam, crank, and distributor sprockets? the reason I ask is that I don't have a timing light, and dont have the money to buy/rent one. but I'll check on a Chiltons and see how long it'll take to get one shipped here. man it sucks they're out of print.
Quote from: Runabout80 on August 02, 2004, 12:01:44 PM
I'll check on a Chiltons and see how long it'll take to get one shipped here. man it are greats they're out of print.
There's usually a bunch for sale on ebay. Some of the prices aren't bad either.
Runabout80,
MAke sure the cam sprocket keyway is at 6:00, the crank sprocket keyway is at 12:00 with the #1 piston @ TDC, and the rotor is pointing toward the #1 spark plug tower on the dist., then put your belt on starting with the crank sprocket, then the aux. sprocket, then the cam sprocket. Then let the tensioner take up the slack. This is "Straight up" timing. Spin the engine a couple times, then check and see if everything stayed OK, then button 'er up. You should be good.
thanks VW, I have no need to do any radical timing on the Pinto now. That'll be when I drop in the 302 later. That's another can of worms entirely. But thanks for the heads up on sprocket settings
got another question for you seasoned mechanics. I need to remove the crankshaft pulley, and neither my father or myself can figure out how to get it done. There are two notches in the ring surrounding the retaining fastner, are those for a tool that would keep the crankshaft stationary and use a deepwell socket to break it loose.
Any help you can give would be great, thanks again.
Runabout80
I'm far from a seasoned mechanic. The only 4 cyl engine I've ever gotten into was a Nissan 1600 in a Pulsar. That was my first engine project, a total rebuild without a manual. If anyone ever says I'm crazy, well, guess what? I am! Anyway, I learned it all the hard way...and yes, it ran when I was done.
In that case, I used a breakover 1/2" socket handle with the appropriate-size deep socket on the crank pully. I then used a small pry bar (you can use any metal bar) to wedge into a cam sprocket hole as a backup to keep the motor from turning while I was breaking the crank pully bolt.
I'm not sure which engine you've got in your Runabout or what your sprocket/tool situation is. I think you should also be able to clamp a vise grip on the side of the pully and use that as a backup.
Ahhh, how I do enjoy my shade tree and lemonade when I work on my cars.
;D
QuoteI think your best bet would be to get a Chilton's or Haynes manual. I have the Haynes, and it is pretty good at showing what needs to be done to replace the timing belt.
I too have the Haynes Pinto/Bobcat ('75-'80) manual. I too find it an excellent resource for the 2.3L and 2.8L engines (better than "pretty good" anyway :P). Straw Boss is right on...get one! I think mine cost me around $16 or $18 ordered from a parts store.
oh I just got a brand spanking new Chilton's just the day before I opened up the Pinto. Didn't say a thing about how to remove the crank pulley, it's pushed both me and my dad to the point of absolute frustration. Even if I could use a pair of vise grips to try to secure the pulley while I use a wrench to break it loose, there's nothing to secure the vise-grips on. I've already taken off all the belts, fan pulley, everything but the crank pulley. The thing is there's two equally spaced notches in a ring around the fastner, so there's gotta be a tool that'll go in there and hold the crank steady. But I need to know the name of said tool, and where to buy it is all.
This fact combined with the fact I'm leaving for college in less than three weeks is maddening.
Since the engine is in the car...put the car in gear (if it's a manual only) and apply the brakes. On an automatic, remove the starter and jam the ring gear (or flexplate/adapter plate...often mistakenly referred to as a "flywheel") to prevent it from turning.
[Haynes manual, pg.30]
It says nothing about the notches, or a tool for said notches. At any rate, such a tool would have to look something like this: ----O---- with backup bars that go in the notches and an opening for your socket wrench adapter to go through. That or maybe like a "U." You would back up either one with a block or something heavy and solid placed under the pully. Anyway, the Haynes manual gives adequate means to remove the pully without purchasing a specialty tool you'll (hopefully) only use once.
QuoteEven if I could use a pair of vise grips to try to secure the pulley while I use a wrench to break it loose, there's nothing to secure the vise-grips on.
Put a wood or cinder block under the pully and let the vise grip handle back up against it. This is effectively the same as removing the starter and jamming the adaptor plate. Or you can use one of the aforementioned notches, a prybar, and a block to create a backup scenario.
Of course, that's only if it's an automatic. If it's a manual, you have it made in the shade by putting the car in gear and applying the brakes.
well, both sound like reasonable options, man I really don't want to disconnect the starter and jam the ring gear. true, and man I wish I had a manual tranny in there... make this job alot easier, but no it had to be an automatic that I bought. but I could even hold the freaking vise grips come to think of it. but I've got an ample selection of cinder blocks. thanks for the advice.