Pinto Car Club of America

Shiny is Good! => Your Pintos/Bobcats & Racers => Topic started by: Poison Pinto on July 08, 2004, 08:23:37 PM

Title: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on July 08, 2004, 08:23:37 PM
A couple weeks ago, Losin Sux asked me why I hadn't put up any pics of my "other" car (the one that runs...).

Well, I finally got around to it. You can see my '72 wagon at:

http://www.geocities.com/mopac_fan/trueblue72/

The specs for the car are on the website.

Oh, and I do have the mirrors for the car (both sides). They're the tear-drop sports mirrors.

I paid $200 for it and will be keeping it in fairly original condition. I'll pull the dent, straighten the bumper and repaint the car it's original blue color. I'll have the interior repaired, but the carpet and headliner won't be "restoration" pieces. I'll need to find another grille...or use the one from my '74 wagon to create a mold and cast one.
Title: Re:True Blue '72
Post by: losin sux on July 08, 2004, 11:15:31 PM
Now THAT is something somebody can work with.  Nice little acquisition Joel!  Bout time you posted pics of Tru.
Title: Re:True Blue '72
Post by: r4pinto on July 11, 2004, 11:20:42 AM
Not bad at all for a junk yard car... That loos in better shape than the 78 I'm getting... Nice catch!
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: r4pinto on August 01, 2004, 05:04:03 PM
Any updates on tru blue?? How's it coming along? It already looks in better shape than the 78 I'll be picking up this week...lol
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 01, 2004, 10:22:31 PM
Lessee....

Put in a new battery. Put the grille from the '74 in for the time being (the '74 won't need it for a while :) ). Put the mirrors back on. Put an inside door handle on from the '74 (again, it won't need it for a while).

I knocked the dent out of the rear corner and sprayed all the hinges and latches with penetrating oil. I did knock a bondo patch out of the rear panel right above the tailpipe. I'll need to repatch that. Other than that, it's ready to be sanded, taped, primered and painted. But that won't happen until I get a few spare pennies for the paint.

The only mechanical things I need to work on are the mirrors and brakes. The mirrors are really loose in their teardrop housings and don't stay adjusted. I also need to get the little adjustor lever for the remote driver's side mirror. My brakes began fading and the brake light came on while I was driving around town last night.

Anyway, I don't want you to all have a coughing fit with "bullshtick," but I am truly surprised with the 2.0 in this thing. Last night, a Chevelle SS and I left a parking lot at the same time, not really all-out racing (no squeeling tires, etc), but both of us knowingly getting after it. I hit 40 mph (speed limit 35) before the Chevelle did and had about 10 - 15 car lengths on it when we were both at "cruising speed" (speed limit + 5). Plus, I was only in third gear and when I dropped it into 4th, I had to let off or go too far over the (so-called) speed limit. It's running the factory stock 2.0, 4 speed, 3.55:1 setup. First gear's not much, but I can catch up to just about anything in 2nd gear. I have no idea what the Chevelle had other than a shiny gold paint job with black racing stripes (and perhaps an embarrassed driver).
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 04, 2004, 09:38:49 PM
Okay, the pic quality isn't the best, so forgive me.

I was mulling about the auto section of a local store to pick up some brake flluid for True Blue and a couple cans of primer to, well, primer the Bondo patches on Poison Pinto. I was looking at the paints and said to myself, "Myself," I said, "you must swear an oath to never paint another car using spray paint." (I painted my Mustang II using Sky Blue and Flat Black Krylon in a can...didn't look bad, but I still needed to clear coat it when I sold it. I also repainted some replaced panels on my '91 Grand Am metal flake black. Again, it didn't look bad from 5' away, but up close you could tell.)

"Oh, wait...what's this? A can of metallic paint called 'True Blue.' Looks a little dark, but...." I started digging around in my pocket, began counting pennies. Had enough for brake fluid, a couple cans of primer, and a can of 'True Blue.'

So I get home and totally forget about Poison Pinto; put in the brake juice, pulled True Blue around back and began sanding and masking. Popped the medallion and trim arrow from the fender and (*shake* *shake* *shake*) totally ignored any vows I'd made to myself previously as I bounded over the point of no return.

It's a test job. It's far from smooth and glossy. Truth be told, I basically "wasted" the $4 for the can of paint because in the end, I'm going to strip it, resand it, reprimer it, and repaint it when I repaint the whole car. But that's the way I am. I want to see exactly what the color will look like on the car in daylight, not on a little scrap of cardboard under a store's flourescent glow. Or worse...relying on "cap color" that is molded in plastic and not even painted with the actual stuff!

Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 04, 2004, 09:39:55 PM
Here's a 3/4 view from the front (notice that I've put on the better grille and hubcaps from my '74).

Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 04, 2004, 09:41:45 PM
Finally, here's a hood-up view. This is a good look at the car's original color compared to the darker "True Blue." I originally wanted to stay close to the original color, but how can I pass up a paint named after my car?  ;D  :P  :-*

And, yeah, I'm thinking 1/2 can primer and one can of paint for a body section...2 fenders, 2 doors, 2 rear quarters, 1 tailgate, 1 roof, 1 hood = 5 cans of primer and 9 cans of paint x $4 = $56 paint job (less clear coat).

Should I? Huh? Huh? Should I give a $200 car a $56 spray paint job?

Or should I drop $$$ to do it "right?"
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: losin sux on August 04, 2004, 09:57:49 PM
LOL you are too funny.....be careful "Jimmy holds grudges"  lol

Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 04, 2004, 10:03:47 PM
Who the **** is Jimmy?
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: pimpin_pinto on August 04, 2004, 11:36:09 PM
i dunno, that looks pretty good how it is.  it's tempting for me to go look for some paint that i like. 
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: losin sux on August 05, 2004, 07:26:44 AM
He was a character on an episode of Seinfeld.  It also had Mel Torme in the same episode.  The character Jimmy talked about himself in third person as you did in the part store prior to purchasing a 2.49 can of spray paint.  While I get the reason/connection would you buy a green paint called "money" and paint plain paper with it? 
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 05, 2004, 07:54:45 AM
Only if someone would tender it as currency.
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: losin sux on August 05, 2004, 11:51:29 AM
Ok you win this one!
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 05, 2004, 08:23:42 PM
Quotei dunno, that looks pretty good how it is.  it's tempting for me to go look for some paint that i like.

I don't know your experience with paint, Pimpin', so please don't be offended. This is advice for anyone who may be thinking about using spray cans.

First off, I've had lots (I mean *lots*) of experience using spray paint from a can. Wait...that sounds bad....

Anyway, being a model railroader, I've done a lot of painting using spray cans and small airbrushes. A lot of control, patience, and discipline goes into using spray cans on a large subject, like a car. While in theory, spray cans and airbrushes should both be able to "get 'er done," spray cans can be really sporadic because the application nozel changes with each can. Plus, you have to get a good feel for distance, rate of motion for each pass, amount of overlap for each pass, etc.

My suggestions to anyone who wants to try this are as follows:

1) Work on body panels/sections instead of the whole car:
Just as I did a fender, then I'd do a door, a quarter panel, etc., working my way around the car. Making broad, car-length strokes as one would with a normal car-painting airbrush doesn't work effectively when using spray cans. A spray can is good for about one body panel.

2) Don't rush and frequently clean the nozzels:
Steady and slow. Have a box of Q-Tips, some fingernail polish remover, and paper towels handy. After every other pass, dab a little remover on the nozzle and dry it off with a paper towel. Be sure there's no "fuzz" on the nozzel after you clean it. Goopy nozzles lead to runs, drips, and "spit" that mar the effort.

3) Don't push the whole can:
If you're about out of paint in a can, sometimes it's best to just pop open a new one than to try to get every last drop out of each can. It's better to "waste" paint that way than by having to redo a section of the car.

4) Start flat.
If you've never done a big project with spray cans, find a flat finish paint. Typical application errors aren't as noticeable and after you clear coat the paint, there's really no difference. Also, metal flake paints are difficult to get down evenly until you have experience.

5) Don't expect miracles.
Even an expert spray can job still looks like the car was painted using paint from a spray can with close inspection. Don't expect to win any car shows with that finish. It's tough to get the modern "wet look" manufacturers achieve with ionized powder paints with liquid paints (no matter how they're applied). If you have the money/time/ability, go the "better" route (airbrush) if you can. Spray can jobs are good for getting a vehicle all one color and covering rust. Beyond that, not even *I* will ever recommend doing it if your car's appearance is seriously important.
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: straw boss on August 05, 2004, 11:07:10 PM
I think your #5 pretty much sums up my feelings on using paint bombs.  I have painted some things with them and had it turn out pretty good. However, the major drawback in my opinion is Krylon just isn't as durable as any of the automotive paints.  It scratches easily and just doesn't adhere to the metal as well as automotive paint and primer will. 
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 05, 2004, 11:29:01 PM
Just to clarify, I only used Krylon on the Mustang II. The "True Blue" was an automotive enamel by Dupli-Color. It's designed as an "overspray" (meaning touching-up existing paint) rather than as a full coat.

I'll probably go ahead and do the whole car with it for now and then redo it "for real" down the road when I have the chance. She'll look better than the faded paint she's in now, and for $60 I can't complain that a temporary paint job is going to bankrupt me.

[EDIT for clarification: I am sanding and primering the car. I am also using the paint as a "base" coat instead of as an "overspray."]
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: losin sux on August 06, 2004, 08:46:14 AM
Ever give any consdieration to making Tru into the hot whell car "The Thing"?  What an awesome pair of pintos those would be!!!!  Consider it Poision at least for a couple of minutes, or longer than you considered wether or not to purchase that spray paint.
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Poison Pinto on August 06, 2004, 07:44:50 PM
Yes I did, actually.

No, I won't.

;D
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: r4pinto on August 08, 2004, 01:36:13 AM
Poison,

I know what your sayin about spray can paint jobs... I have a 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo that I am in the process of restoring, and when I bought it the car was all done up in gray primer... Yuck!!!

Anyways, I got tired of looking at the gray, so I went to Wal Mart, and bought some cheapy gloss black spray paint.

Got the car repained, and it looks better than it did, but not as good as it will when I get done with it.

I'll be doing the same thing with the Pinto once I get it... It won't be pretty, but atleast it will be the 2 tone colors instead of 2 tone plus ugly color.
Title: Re: True Blue '72
Post by: Glassman on August 20, 2004, 11:21:10 AM
When I restored our boat trailer I painted it with Plasticote. I ran out of paint on the tird coat so I bought some Krylon by mistake. Well I ended up stripping and repainting the lower side of the frame.  ::)  I learned that I should test everytime I go to paint on a little area of what Im painting. I know I know Ive read a million times to do that, but, I thought I was using the same brand of paint.