I have ruled out ALL posibles like fuel, wiring, sensors,etc. When under boost at 12deg it will die off and sound like a blown head gasket, which has been changed, and fall flat on its face. No knock sensor. I cant seem to figure it out. I have the Boport stage one cam and he told me to run it straight up at 12deg. If I set the timing at 20deg spout out and plugged it back in then it would run better. My thought is that the cam needs to be adjusted a tooth due to when I ran it at 12deg and adjusted the cam with cam gear 9deg forward it ran better. That worries me cause now the cam timing is off using the string method. Any suggestions? I am leaning towards bad cam timing but dont know what else to do. No codes came up by the way.
From what you describe it sure sounds like cam timing, but I am confused-what is "the string method" ???
String method= with the cam timing mark pointed at the distributor gear and the crank at tdc, it will form a straight line when you stretch a line from the cam bolt to the dist gear bolt. The two timing marks will be in line with the string.
I think I explained that right???
Hmmm...never heard of that. Try this- pull the valve cover, put engine on TDC. The two front lobes should be pointing at 10:00 and 2:00, forming a shallow "V". If not, you are 180 out, turn engine around 1 more turn and line up TDC again. Get a piece of flat metal 3" wide by 6" long and balance it on top of the cam lobes. There are two ways to do the next step.
1. Take a tape measure and measure from the metal to the top of the head on both sides. If they are the same, the cam is at 0. If the driver side is less, cam is advanced. If driver side is more, cam is retarded.
2. This is the way I like. Place a small carpenters level on the back of the head. Jack up the side of the car to get the bubble level. Now place the level on the piece of metal that is balanced on the cam. You may need to turn it at an angle so it will sit on the metal properly. Make sure the metal sits squarely on the cam lobes and is not tipping to one side or the other.
3. If the bubble is level, the cam is at 0. If it is off one way or the other, the cam is off.
I did that and the cam is now set right. When the other guy timed it for me he retarded the cam 1 tooth. He is a mechanic so I didnt question him. He broke... I fixed. Thanks that trick worked well.
Quote from: 71pintoracer on April 14, 2008, 12:46:14 PM
Hmmm...never heard of that. Try this- pull the valve cover, put engine on TDC. The two front lobes should be pointing at 10:00 and 2:00, forming a shallow "V". If not, you are 180 out, turn engine around 1 more turn and line up TDC again. Get a piece of flat metal 3" wide by 6" long and balance it on top of the cam lobes. There are two ways to do the next step.
1. Take a tape measure and measure from the metal to the top of the head on both sides. If they are the same, the cam is at 0. If the driver side is less, cam is advanced. If driver side is more, cam is retarded.
2. This is the way I like. Place a small carpenters level on the back of the head. Jack up the side of the car to get the bubble level. Now place the level on the piece of metal that is balanced on the cam. You may need to turn it at an angle so it will sit on the metal properly. Make sure the metal sits squarely on the cam lobes and is not tipping to one side or the other.
3. If the bubble is level, the cam is at 0. If it is off one way or the other, the cam is off.
I've got my Head off my Runabout (2000cc) again because they installed the center cam bearing where the oil comes out the screw hole and not the spray bar hole... Had timing issues as well when the head was on the car the first time-- I too have a warm cam installed (Iski).. Your method seem very clear and doable.. I like it.. Will be getting my head back from the shop after the re-re- do and will try it.. thanks...
Glad to help guys! ;D Scott, when you do your 2.0 you will have to take off the oil spray bar, make sure to cover the oil return holes so you dont drop the little bolt down the hole and ruin your day!
Now I seem to be running really rich. What do I check for that? I know the injectors are fine and the tps is set at .90v. Would the IAC cause that?