I have passed this on to a couple other members and used it myself so thought I should do up a little tutorial.
here is a "cheap trick" to referb the chrome trim on the interior bezel's
Sharpie makes a silver permanent marker... I've seen them at Wal-Mart and Office Supply Stores.
It will not be an exact match for the chrome strip from factory but... if you do it all... it looks a lot better.
The only tip I have when doing it is the tip of the marker needs to be nice and wet. No old dried up markers and buy 2. One way to get the tip real wet is to shake the marker with the tip away from you. Grab some napkins and be careful as the cap will fill with ink and the tip of the marker will get messy, that's what the napkins are for. Anyone who has used the sharpie markers on plastic will know if you keep tryng to do the same area over and over it will not turn out even and keeps coming off. With a really wet tip it will cover in one pass and look good. With the tip nice and wet it's almost like painting it on. Take it in baby steps and take your time and will look great when done.
now... some before pictures on my 77 cruising wagon...
and some pictures after I finished...
BTW... also works on the lettering on the wiper and headlight switch and doesn't block the backlight.
It definitely gives the interior a fresher look!
I just redid the paint around the air ducts and my heater controls with some Testor's silver model paint. It wasn't easy to apply at all, but it looks a lot better. I wish I would have known about this before then!
I've been communicating with a company online by the name of Bare-Metal Foil Co. They product a thin chrome foil that is applied to model cars to give them a very realistic chrome look. They sell this foil in sheets of 6" x 11 1/2". I have been trading emails inquiring whether or not it would be an ideal subsitute for the original chrome on the gauge cluster trim on a real world vehicle. The person I am communicating with is telling me that he does not see any problem with it, but if the gauge hole is wider than 6" it would be best to cut two half circles and apply the chrome trim in two parts. I am still curious as to how well it would come out, but I would suspect overlapping of two sections may create a hump in the foil. I am still awaiting a reply on this concern.
I found a different paint marker in the craft department made by Elmers called Metallic Painters it comes in 2 different tips fine and medium I used the medium, but the fine would have been better for some parts It gives more of a metallic look than the testors silver that i had tried before.
Phils toys
When I was working on the interior of my F150, I used a silver leafing pen that I purchased at my local craft store. That was four years ago and it still looks great. Provides a somewhat shinier finish than the paint pens and permanent markers. Since then, I have done the same on my buddy's Thunderbird and intend to do it again on my Pinto once I have the other interior stuff finished. :)
Dwayne
WOW! I'm glad I posted this. Looks like some great ideas.
Quote from: dga57 on March 03, 2008, 09:20:14 PM
When I was working on the interior of my F150, I used a silver leafing pen that I purchased at my local craft store. That was four years ago and it still looks great. Provides a somewhat shinier finish than the paint pens and permanent markers. Since then, I have done the same on my buddy's Thunderbird and intend to do it again on my Pinto once I have the other interior stuff finished. :)
Dwayne
Hello Dwayne,
Please tell us more about this leafing pen?
Manufacturor or part #s
From Pintony
pintony,
the counterpart to the one i used is a gold leafing pen, the silver was not listed as a leafing pen, but was listed to be used for the same things.
phils toys.
I found this from Krylon
http://www.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=8&productid=1763&content=product_details
Available in 18 Kt Gold, Silver, Copper, Pale Gold and Red Shimmer
I also see them on Ebay...
Hi!
This is the first time I've been on the computer since I posted about the silver leafing pen. I was going to answer Pintony's request for more information but it looks like you've already found it. The one I used was made by Krylon, same as in the link. Works like a charm!
In an unrelated matter, I continue to be unsuccessful with posting photos of those quarter panels I bought from Black Car Parts. My son worked on trying to post them for about three hours Sunday. He has resized them using three different programs and we still get the "too big" message! I haven't forgotten about it... I just can't seem to make it work. Sorry. :embarrassed:
Dwayne
How mirror like is this Krylon leafing pen??
I received word back about the bare-metal foil. The guy I have been talking too said as long as the base layer is applied flat and correctly, the foil is so thin that it should not have any "hump" or see-through of overlapping at all. I may purchase a sheet and make an attempt.
Here is something interesting I just found:
http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/alclad.htm#1%20oz.%20CHROMEPrice%20$8.95
http://www.spazstix.com/xcart/home.php?cat=300
Mirror-like? I wouldn't say that... but, then, the edging used originally wasn't either. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on the bare metal foil. I've used it some in building models and found it to be more trouble than it's worth... not easy to work with at all. Your experience, however, may be quite different. Keep us posted on the outcome.
Dwayne :smile:
I took apart my cluster gauge last night to detail clean the gauges and mounting bezels and paint the center of the dials with some silver testor's paint. It seems almost 60% of the front bezel is chromed. I do not know if they used a plating process or what but it seems to have somewhat of an over spray. This could also be due to them painting over the chrome to make the front bezels black.
There are a few things I am planning to experiment with in order to find something that matches to the stock appearance, and I will definitely keep everyone up to date with my tests.
I ordered two 6" x 11 1/2" sheets of ultra bright chrome bare metal foil and a bottle of adhesion promoter for it tonight. I should have it here by Saturday this week or Monday next week. I will be pulling the extra instrument cluster face out of my storage unit tomorrow to clean up and prep for experimentation. Updates will be following!
Last night I finished the gauge bezel that I pulled from the 77 Bobcat for experimentation. Total work time came out to 7 - 8 hours, consisting of removing the original material by means of a polishing compound (so as not to scratch the plastic), cleaning, applying the foil, burnishing, masking, painting, clear coating and touch-up.
The foil is thinner than paper, which makes it difficult to work with without tearing. Not only this, but the slightest defect or foreign object beneath the foil on the base surface will show though, which means that the prep process must be perfect for a good looking final product. Covering a curve like the gauge holes was not easy, and when burnishing the edge of the foil it wrinkled slightly.
Overlapping the foil was just as I feared. The foil is so thin that even overlapping surfaces shows through. The only way I found to ensure it looked nice in the end, was to do a 1/16 inch overlap, keeping defects to a minimum. Which Started out just fine until after I removed the masking tape and the foil came up and tore a little bit in a couple spots. This left me with having to cut out a small piece of foil to cover up the hole, adding one more overlap.
The first picture below shows the bezel after all of the foil is applied. Notice that the foil wraps around the edges with excess foil on the sides. I did this so that after painting and clear coating, the paint and clear coat would help to hold the foil to the bezel, keeping the foil from being torn off when detailing gauge cluster with a micro fiber towel.
Overall it came out pretty nice. Although the photos make it look better than it does in person. I am not saying that it doesn't look nice, but when the bezel is in direct sunlight, the overlaps of the foil come out much clearer and it gives the shinny surface a rough appearance.
Nice work Dave! I love the initiative and ingenuity in this group. All of these small but important restoration tips really make a large stride towards excellent restorations. I am regularly "thwarted" by the overabundance of inexpensive (well, everything is relative) and abundant reproduction parts for Mustangs and many, many other cars. While we are forced to "make due" with used parts, the efforts here are remarkable and worthwhile.
I hope one day that Pinto parts will be a common sight, not an exception. Until then, nice work!!
Chris
That looks great. Step by step breakdowns would be great so we can try if we like.
Thanks Chris and r4pinto!
I am currently looking for another bezel, as I would like to try a different approach of applying the foil. Updates will be posted when I find one. :)
Looks good! I have an extra bezel if you want it (I just changed mine, remember?) PM me your name and address and I will send it to you when I get paid on the 7th.
Chuck
The Bare Metal Foil "solution" won't work for this application.
It has been cold and damp here in Idaho for about three weeks now.
I went out to my storage unit to get my snow tires out and took a look at the bezel I did work on. The foil is bubbling up in spots and makes it look nasty.
Hmm, what other possible permanent solutions might there be?
Thanks for the offer Chuck! However, until we can think of another way of doing this, I recommend you hang onto it. :)
Ok, I ran across this in a model car magazine and checked out the website, its called Alclad 2, it is a metallic coating for model cars and airplanes. It is applied with an airbrush. Maybe this will help. I am going to order some "chrome" and try it (I already have an airbrush)
http://www.alclad2.com/alclad-home.html
As long as it isn't a paint, it should be okay. I know that the chrome paints like rust-oleum or krylon are just metallic flake added to the paint, and if you touch it (even after drying) it will turn gray because the metallic flakes are flattened out.
Hopefully this isn't the same about this metallic coating you are looking into. I would love to hear your results, so keep us updated! :D
Im going to bring up another ancient thread.....sorry
But how about sign vinyl?
I run a sign business, and we have mirror chrome vinyl.
http://www.oracal.com/products/all-colors.asp?seriesID=176 (http://www.oracal.com/products/all-colors.asp?seriesID=176)
This does NOT show what the chrome looks like - actual product is MIRROR like, just like new chrome.
I can cut this into (size??)1/16" strips at any reasonable length (up to 30 yds) relatively cheap. The strips apply similar to a decal, can be trimmed easily, and are semi formable (go around corners) For the guages...I would cut out circles the size of the guages, then trim to fit, and free hand cut the excess to be used elsewhere.
Just an idea!
Ohhhh! You wanna be fussy?? You want red chrome? Blue chrome? Gold??? All possibilities! ;)
http://cgi.ebay.com/SIGN-VINYL-SMOOTH-CHROME-BLUE-8-10-X-5YD-COBURN_W0QQitemZ130334184488QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e5885d428 (http://cgi.ebay.com/SIGN-VINYL-SMOOTH-CHROME-BLUE-8-10-X-5YD-COBURN_W0QQitemZ130334184488QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e5885d428)
http://cgi.ebay.com/SIGN-VINYL-CHROME-SILVER-24-X-10YD-COBURN-NEW_W0QQitemZ130335012076QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e589274ec (http://cgi.ebay.com/SIGN-VINYL-CHROME-SILVER-24-X-10YD-COBURN-NEW_W0QQitemZ130335012076QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e589274ec)
What is the price for a sheet of this sign vinyl? The "chrome" on my deluxe door panels is peeling off, and what that shiny stuff was mounted on is soft plastic- not ideal to use a pen or paint on. :)
bluepinto,
The stuff comes on rolls, normally in 10yd incriments (aprox 30 feet). Rolls normally cost $50-$75. But that is WAAAAAAY too much material for what you need....heck, you could dang near do a whole car with 3 rolls.
On that thought..... :laugh: :o
j/k
Anyways...I go through alot of stuff like that, and if someone needed, sat 1/16" strips, by 24" long, I can get THAT done cheeeap. If the peices are smaller yet (envelope size) thatd save on shipping too.
If Im thinking of the same peices you are, the chrome is roughly 3/8" wide. Well, I can cut 3/8....probly better with1/2" strips, then just trim the excess.
I can cut any size. Basicly I am running a few inches off the roll, and cutting lines in it every xx.xxx" (what ever width needed) so there are strips for you to use.
Ive NEVER tried this....BUT, I do have an old dash cluster off a parts car I think Im gonna go outside and retreive......MAYBE, we'll see what we can do here! Ill keep ya'll posted!
Well, I tried it, and it works fairly well. I made a new thread here
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php/topic,13314.0.html (http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php/topic,13314.0.html)
Like it says, wrong color, but it did work. Now, I may think about using a suppliment adhesive, just to make sure it's permanent. Maybe a clearcoat over the finished product.
Quote from: dga57 on March 03, 2008, 09:20:14 PM
When I was working on the interior of my F150, I used a silver leafing pen that I purchased at my local craft store. That was four years ago and it still looks great. Provides a somewhat shinier finish than the paint pens and permanent markers. Since then, I have done the same on my buddy's Thunderbird and intend to do it again on my Pinto once I have the other interior stuff finished. :)
Dwayne
WORKED GREAT! Thanks Dwayne!