I noticed a number of people had asked about the Turbo Pinto build around the time I embarked on my project. So, periodically as a go through this I'll post my trials in the hope of assisting others and avoid the difficulties I encounter.
While the Forum has been extremely valuable, most of the questions/answers pertain to "what" to use in this swap and not necessarily the "process" of acquiring what is needed.
Today I spent the full day in a local self serve yard. While this is something I do on a regular basis being there regarding Pinto's is new to me. So, I thought to those who are in the process of, or considering the Turbo engine swap I would pass on my experience for whatever value you find in it.
1. Finding a Pinto:
I've had my Pinto ('73 Wagon) about 5 weeks now. I've gone to about five different yards (all self serve) around eight trips total and found three Pinto's. I live in So. Cal. and two I found were in Sacramento. Since I hadn't yet seen my Pinto in person, while in Sac. all I got was a front turn signal lense I knew I needed.
2. Finding an 8" rearend:
Whoever it is in the San Fernando Valley who is pulling ALL the 8" rearends, PLEASE..., leave one for me. Thanks.
3. Pedals:
Today I lucked out and found my first local Pinto. It was a late 70's ESS. Though I was fortunate to have the dash partially removed it was still a hassle to get the pedals out. My car is an Auto and I need the clutch (and thus the brake pedals). There is a lot of stuff in the way.
At first I was going to pull the whole mount etc.. But, after removing what I thought was every bolt, brace etc., it still wouldn't budge. So, I went back to just getting the pedals out. Make sure you have 1/2" and 9/16" deep sockets and the corresponding wrenches. Thin gloves will give you working room and help from banging up your hands. Don't hesitate to remove things in the way. It is time well spent.
4. Clutch cable:
On the trans end it comes out with little effort. Getting the prong ended "snap to fit" piece out of the firewall took forever. In the end I used one of those flat metal spring tensioned hose clamps and it compressed the prongs. Note that I tried it three times before to no avail. The last time I also coaxed it to tighten with needle nose pliers. One of Ford's "Better Ideas" it connects to the firewall in a half second and come out in an hour! A perfect size piece of tubing would save a lot of frustration. Make sure you get all the clips, pins connector etc., when you pull this stuff.
5. Oil pan:
OK, you have to pull the starter. You have to pull the front sway bar. You have to pull the steering rack ( you need a 15/16" wrench for that). My problem was the bolt on the drivers side of the rack wouldn't come out for anything. I mean, I battering rammed the thing with a drive shaft to no avail. Eventually I loosened the tie rod on the passenger side and twisted the rack this way and that until the pan finally move... most of the way. Rotating the crank allowed the counter weights to re-position and eventually it came out. Yet, it still had to be pulled out with some effort (no damage though).
6. Oil pick-up:
The pump itself has those multi point bolts. Sometimes I have gotten by with a regular socket, but my smallest (9mm) wasn't small enough. There are only two regular bolts holding the pick-up to the pump also. The bad news is that the upper bolt hits the main bearing webbing before it backs out. Fortunately I had a hack saw blade holder that clamps the length of the blade. Be careful, I nearly chipped a tooth when the pick-up fell free.
7. I recommend you retain as many of the bolts, nut you remove. Once back home you will always loose, break a few of them.
Well, until my next "find" I'll wish anyone in the process the best. Learn from my mistakes!
Tom
Good info.
I would like to add a few things:
1) The early cars are not made for a 2.3, so some more work is needed for the swap.
2) Thats anywhere (I am guilty of that here, but I did leave a few).
3) All the clutch pedals are the same, but there are 4 different brake pedals. From my experience from 75 and later, all will interchange on the mounts.
4) YES, a section of pipe or a hose clamp is a must.
5) I have had some that were like welded in. Not something I would want to do in a JY (no pic-n-pulls in CT anyway).
8) If your not in SoCal expect RUST on EVERY fastener and for it to be a fight for EVERYTHING.
Bill
Tom, 73 and earlier cars have a different pedal design than the 74 and later cars. The 73 and earlier cars have the clutch and brake pedal on the same bolt. The later cars have the brake pedal on the bolt and the clutch pedal on its own bracket that bolts to the side of the mount. I am not sure if they interchange or not. You may have to find an earlier set. Good luck with your project.
5. Oil pan:
OK, you have to pull the starter. You have to pull the front sway bar. You have to pull the steering rack ( you need a 15/16" wrench for that). My problem was the bolt on the drivers side of the rack wouldn't come out for anything. I mean, I battering rammed the thing with a drive shaft to no avail. Eventually I loosened the tie rod on the passenger side and twisted the rack this way and that until the pan finally move... most of the way. Rotating the crank allowed the counter weights to re-position and eventually it came out. Yet, it still had to be pulled out with some effort (no damage though).
i just lift the engine. it only has to go up 2" last one i did i loosened the nuts on the mont till the were all the way lose but not off. stood a chunk of 4x4 on a jack and under the crank pulley.
the then i found out the yard i was at has a no oil pan policy but it only took me 20 min. so they believed me that it was already off.
p.s. if u jump a pinto, they take the oil pan off when u land.
On the clutch pedal argument I can VERIFY that the 71-73 ARE DIFFERANT than the 80! I pulled everything from an 80 to change my 73 wagon to a straight and when i got to the pedals...........WOULDNT FIT! i had the whole assembly and there was no way any of it was going to work. I lucked out and a friend with a junkyard had a straight early model 74 that had a 2.0 and got that assembly and put in it. Hope this helps.
>>>Tom, 73 and earlier cars have a different pedal design than the 74 and later cars.<<<
I kind of suspected that. All the time I was struggling to pull the pedals I was thinking, "I should have looked at my car first." In fact, that is why I was attempting to pull the whole arrangement. Well, if I can make it work, I'm not beyond fabricating something.
I'm kind of stuck with a '73 or earlier car. First because I like the looks, but also because here in Calif. that is the cut-off year for smog. There was a rolling exemption for a few years, but when that went away I never checked to see if if it rolled back to '73 or not. Even if it didn't that would make '75 the cut-off year.
As someone new here I was under the impression that a PINTO was a Pinto, was a pinto. Apparently Ford had a "Better Idea." Live and learn. I've made costlier mistakes.
Tom