1976 was rated at 92hp and 1979 at 88hp
Any difference mechanically or just emissions stuff?
And if it's emissions, what specifically was different?
Boring question I know....
The Feds kicked in. From what I remember reading they required the engines to be detuned which lowered emissions, but also at the expense of HP. That sound right to anyone?
Windage tray, straps and studs are totally a WASTE of money unless you are running a roundy round Pinto.
The power pully is NOT recomended for the street.
NOTICE Esslinger parts are for RACE CARS not street cars
The only way to make HP is to raise the CR.
Either by using zero-deck pistons OR shave-ing the head.
OR by installing a Turbo.
Either way you should start out with a Turbo block. They R STRONG!!!!
And almost NEVER need to be bored.
I'm sorry apintonut.
But at what RPM do you start making 250 HP with a Pinto 2.3 engine?????
Don't believe everything you read!!!!
From Pintony
Quote from: Pintony on November 19, 2007, 04:13:03 AM
...The only way to make HP is to raise the CR.
Either by using zero-deck pistons OR shave-ing the head.
OR by installing a Turbo....
Sorry Tony, a turbo does not change the C/R.
Bill
Quote from: apintonut on November 18, 2007, 11:54:52 PM
the first and easiest is the carb go to ur junk yard or your buddy that has ford parts and get a motor craft 2 brl off a 351w or 302 (or holley 350 2brl) pull the carb and egr plate off ur pinto put a or change egr out for a one inch spacer put carb on ur hp is now about 125 hp for 20-40$ (or u can use a 2x4brl adapter and a 390 holley this requires modifying the throttle cable use one from a mustang fox or mustang 2)
next the header and 2.5 inch exhaust ur at about 150+ then 100$ if u build yourself
next is most important for off the line and keeping ur engine alive with hard running this is the esslinger windage tray goes in the oil pan and is a bear to install with the engine in the car but can be done u will need to undo the motor mounts and lift the engine a bit 120$
stud and strap at this time if u have the engine out and rebuilding way worth the extra $$$
then the roller rocker and cam out of a ranger 0-40$
if u have the head off any way or have an extra check with a local head builder to see what they charge for big valve may be worth the extra cash to have a rebuilt head that will most likely last longer with more hp could be any where from 250-900$ depending on what u want done (this is not a must for 250 hp this is a must for 300+ hp)
and esslinger power pulley u should be at 215-250 hp
i would also recommend a super coil and really good wire or (make them out of tv coax cable -> ive only herd this works good:-)
plz dont forget that one of the cheapest + hp is port and polish as much as can be done this is easiest than u think using the gasket and a bright collar paint; paint the out line of it on the part (head or manifold) using a die grinder (20$ at harbor freight or free at ur buddies garage) grind all extra metal out as deep as u can dont forget the top of the manifold
then if u have a c4 find a v6 car with c4 ( most any car) and use the tork converter u now have a hight stall for 20$ or if u have a 4 speed mustang and tbird 5 speed t5 lower 1 gear craigslist 75-200$
this will run u more than the 250$ i earlier said but u can do it one piece at a time
if i left any thing out that some one els know to be important in longevity or cheap hp plz reply this is just the mods i have always done to both my pintos and rangers,
This is without a doubt the most BOGUS info I have seen in a long time. :showback:
Quote from: Pintony on November 19, 2007, 04:13:03 AM
I'm sorry apintonut.
But at what RPM do you start making 250 HP with a Pinto 2.3 engine?????
Don't believe everything you read!!!!
From Pintony
I got to agree with you Pintony, if I could get 250 out of my 2.3 Pinto engine, then I would. And nobody would go turbo cuz they'd be getting all the power out of an NA Pinto.
Hey All ,
This is great debate, but in truth , the Real numbers are shown on a dyno. If you look at Esslinger's numbers for a midget ALCOHOL injected motor, the best you may get is 300 at the crank. The ARCA Truck engine used to be sold with a 285 HP number.
The Esslinger built Ford Probe 2.3 Road racing engine didn't exceed more than 260 on racing gas.
The issue on which parts, depends on how High U spin the engine, and how often you want a rebuild. A turbo10 second 1/4 mile engine is not getting much usage. Add Nitrous and it's life gets short real fast , 400+ HP or not!
Even the 2.0 was never dynoed much past 225 HP N/A as a road racing motor, and it had block /harmonic issues. The "racing only" Cosworth YBA/YBG 2.0 required race gas or huge sidedraft carbs to take advantange of superior Head (twin cam 16 Valve) steel crank, heavy 205 casting block and other goodies for a 245 to 300 HP rating (non turbo).
A stock short block , d-port head, with usable carburation, mild cam , headers, and the usual MSD ignition should be good for 150 HP on Street gas at 92 octane. It will drive fine and that is almost double the stock amount. Any more than that, will require compromises or big $$$ for little benefit.
Remember this isn't a E30 M3 BMW, or a New Civic Si. Until the bucks are spent, that extra 50- 100 HP Normally Aspirated just aren't there. AND this won't be emissions compliant equipment on a 2.3 either.
In good faith.. Truth prevails
Pintosopher
Quote from: 77turbopinto on November 19, 2007, 10:26:19 AM
Sorry Tony, a turbo does not change the C/R.
Bill
Bill
If that was true you could run 30Lb boost on 89 Octane with 35+ Deg of timing..
Try this..
http://www.wallaceracing.com/boost-compression-ratio-calc.php
This is @ 1450 Altitude..
The Boosted Compression Ratio from your Boost of 25 psi @ 8:1 is 21.59 : 1
Boost of 30 psi @ 8:1 is 24.04 : 1
Howdy,
I agree, the comparison is: Mechanical vs "Effective" CR. One is calculated with Dimensions and PSI The other is "Environmentally altered" to a similar or greater effect i.e. Effective ratio by Boost pressure.
Pintosopher
Quote from: pintosopher on November 19, 2007, 06:50:23 PM
Howdy,
I agree, the comparison is: Mechanical vs "Effective" CR. One is calculated with Dimensions and PSI The other is "Environmentally altered" to a similar or greater effect i.e. Effective ratio by Boost pressure.
Pintosopher
X2
Quote from: map351 on November 19, 2007, 06:43:08 PM
Bill
If that was true you could run 30Lb boost on 89 Octane with 35+ Deg of timing...
The C/R of the engine itself does not change with boost, the
PSI at TDC goes up. The 'effective' C/R, or what it is called by others is different, but that is based on PSI; in a way, I see it "similar" to calculating HP, a mathmatical factor of torque + RPM.
Bill
Wow, I hate to hear that turbo motors won't live. Now I'll be worried every time I drive my 10.70 quarter mill daily driver turbo Pinto. The static compression ratio is not raised with boost. The cylinder pressure however, increases proportionally with boost. As far as the NA engine goes, I don't see real big increases without real big money. I ran a NA 2.3 Pinto in Modified Compact {NHRA and IHRA} and the most HP it ever made was 286, and that was a high dollar motor for its time. I'm looking for 1500 HP out of the new alky motor, but it has absolutely the best parts made and will be running at a minimum of 50 pounds of boost from an 80 MM turbo. What would the theoretical compression ratio be running a static of 11:1?
from esslinger.com
How much horsepower does the 2.3 SOHC Ford engine produce stock? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
What is the best way to increase horse power? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
. What type and size of carburetor shold I run? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
What is the advantage of converting my head to a roller setup? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
sorry, have never had one of my engines or cars on a dyno.
sorry, if im off i was just give out a good place to start for semi stock low budget non turbo
improved hp engine including the thing i have learned that work well from the mistake i have made.
sorry, for my post i should have dodged around giving a hp estaminet
one more mistake i have learned from
no, i did not base any of my post off of this info i fond on esslinger.com this was all from my trial and error
p.s. esslinger will build u any hp u want if u have the $$$$ to spend
Quote from: apintonut on November 19, 2007, 08:30:26 PM
from esslinger.com
How much horsepower does the 2.3 SOHC Ford engine produce stock? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
What is the best way to increase horse power? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
. What type and size of carburetor shold I run? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
What is the advantage of converting my head to a roller setup? click here
http://www.esslingeracing.com/faq.htm#
sorry have never had one of my engines or cars on a dyno
sorry if im off i was just give out a good place to start for semi stock low budget non turbo
improved hp engine
including the thing i have learned that work well from the mistake i have made
sorry for my post i should have dodged around giving a hp estaminet
one more mistake i have learned from
no i did not base any of my post off of this info i fond on esslinger.com this was all from my trial and error
p.s. esslinger will build u any hp u want if u have the $$$$ to spend
You just aint got a clue sport. BTW, PUNCTUATION be a wonderful thing.
Quote from: turbo toy on November 19, 2007, 08:07:40 PM
Wow, I hate to hear that turbo motors won't live. Now I'll be worried every time I drive my 10.70 quarter mill daily driver turbo Pinto. The static compression ratio is not raised with boost. The cylinder pressure however, increases proportionally with boost. As far as the NA engine goes, I don't see real big increases without real big money. I ran a NA 2.3 Pinto in Modified Compact {NHRA and IHRA} and the most HP it ever made was 286, and that was a high dollar motor for its time. I'm looking for 1500 HP out of the new alky motor, but it has absolutely the best parts made and will be running at a minimum of 50 pounds of boost from an 80 MM turbo. What would the theoretical compression ratio be running a static of 11:1?
Thank you.
Quote from: apintonut on November 19, 2007, 08:30:26 PM
...What is the best way to increase horse power? ...
"BEST" is a RELITIVE TERM, and is STRICTLY determend by SPICIFIC GOALS.
Bill
Quote from: turbo toy on November 19, 2007, 08:35:01 PM
....PUNCTUATION be a wonderful thing.
I politely mentioned this to him also, and apparently others have too, but it has not taken effect yet. (hey APN, it is a courtesy thing....)
Bill
Quote from: r4pinto on November 18, 2007, 09:35:22 PM
The Feds kicked in. From what I remember reading they required the engines to be detuned which lowered emissions, but also at the expense of HP. That sound right to anyone?
How were they detuned? With emissions stuff? Engine internals?
I'm just curious about
stock motors, '74-80, and why they were different.
Or did they just change the published numbers?
I'm not too sure. Some parts were prolly the emissions parts (EGR charcoal cannister, ect.) I think the carb was made different, as there were different models listed at the parts stores, and unless I am mistaken & could be the timing was retarded as well. This is just a guess, not too sure of the details.
Quote from: r4pinto on November 19, 2007, 09:54:44 PM
I'm not too sure. Some parts were prolly the emissions parts (EGR charcoal cannister, ect.) I think the carb was made different, as there were different models listed at the parts stores, and unless I am mistaken & could be the timing was retarded as well. This is just a guess, not too sure of the details.
Matt, you are the correct line. The FED standards got increasingly tight EVERY YEAR. The only easy way to comply in those days was to make changes that choked massive power out of the engine. They also made BIG changes to the gearing.
Bill
Quote from: 77turbopinto on November 19, 2007, 10:26:19 AM
Sorry Tony, a turbo does not change the C/R.
Bill
Hey Bill,
My statement WAS the only way to make HP is CR or Turbo.
My statement was NOT to claim that a turbo would change the CR.
Who Do you think you are???
I know what I was saying!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
I only posted that to "open a can of worms". Please note it worked.
(also so the first post in my turbo swap thread in the FAQ).
Bill
Quote from: 77turbopinto on November 19, 2007, 10:02:56 PM
Matt, you are the correct line. The FED standards got increasingly tight EVERY YEAR. The only easy way to comply in those days was to make changes that choked massive power out of the engine. They also made BIG changes to the gearing.
Bill
I was somewhat right??? WOW!!!! Must have been the combination of the fumes from the spray paint, Purple Power degreaser, brake cleaner & carb cleaner I was using to clean & paint my engine parts. :D
Maybe the dynos got more accurate as the years progressed :hypno:
Thinking outside the box here guys.