I noticed there are a few pintos that have turbos on this forum. I was looking atTurbowagimans S.W. on the potobucket & got to the pic of the wiring :hypno: if you don't mind me asking what (wiring did you start off with? I have a 77 turbo T-bird engine & trany. The wiring part is over my head. Sure could use some help. If it wasn't for that,I would of had this in my S.W. 5 years ago :lost:
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,3008.0.html
Quote from: RapidRichy on September 19, 2007, 11:28:11 AM
I noticed there are a few pintos that have turbos on this forum. I was looking atTurbowagimans S.W. on the potobucket & got to the pic of the wiring :hypno: if you don't mind me asking what (wiring did you start off with?
I used an 86 Merkur XR4Ti wiring harness. I started off with that computer but now I have a PK1. Belive it or not but I only had to lengthen 6 or 8 wires to make it fit in the location I have it in.
That is for an Injected engine, is your engine Injected? I didn't even know they made a Turbo T-Bird in 77, or did you mean an 87? The motor that is in my car is an 88 the same thing basically as an 87.
I've got all this stuff listed in "Your Pinto's", here is the link:
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,7234.0.html
turbowagonman
Oh boy another brain fart. I meant 87. I guess thats thats better then setting here having a hard boiled egg & beer one. Thanks Richy
Tubowago what did yours run in the 1/4. Heres some of the stuff I have for that.http://mustangsandmore.com/memberpages2/RichardSwart.html
A 2.3 turbo pinto at 2500 lb with a FMIC T-3 3" exhaust should run right in the mid 12s with NO problem..
Quote from: map351 on September 29, 2007, 12:08:04 PM
A 2.3 turbo pinto at 2500 lb with a FMIC T-3 3" exhaust should run right in the mid 12s with NO problem..
Better add just a few more things
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on September 30, 2007, 02:40:39 PM
Better add just a few more things
We have a 3200Lb Capri in the 12.30s only a set of valves and a little bowl clean up & a PE..
Vids> http://good-times.webshots.com/album/552689740ERZOiw?start=24
WOW! Not to highjack a thread but please tell me your combo, boost, etc.
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on October 04, 2007, 12:13:34 AM
WOW! Not to highjack a thread but please tell me your combo, boost, etc.
The best pass on the Capri is a 1/8th 7.86 at 86.32, 1/4 12.38 at 112.78. @ 22lb boost
Stock junkyard short block,Pocket ported, big valve head, ranger roller cam, new valve springs and seals Esslinger adjustable cam gear, all converted to round tooth timing belt set-up. Gutted, ported, knife edged and rotated upper intake. Stack T-3 turbo with clipped wheel, ported E-6 exhaust, 55lb injectors. ( the car went 12.50s with 35lb injectors)
373 rear gear, NPR intercooler..
Mallory 685 IGN. box.
The 60' are still off a little the car needs a 10.5 or 11' tire there's E/T streets on now.
As you can see there's nothing exotic all stock or junkyard parts. The Hp is around 330..
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Now on the other of the spectrum Dave Flanders makes between 900/1000 Hp with his 2.5 on Alcohol @42 lb boost!
"Thanks guys - I was glad Huber beat me to the 8's because it took the pressure off but it was time to prove a point. I knew the car could do it under any conditions and last night was a real test of that...traction was horrible and 84 degrees with humidity so thick you could cut it with a knife. The 2 step was turned way down so it didn't spin but it also left soft, the boost was 42psi (up 2 from usual):
60ft - 1.3468
1/8et - 5.726
1/8mph - 122.53
1/4et - 8.917
1/4mph - 153.72"
Thanks for the info. My best times to date, 95% stock including boost, are in the 9.30's in the 1/8, thats spinining the tires threw first, nearly sideways in second and I know theres more since my trap speeds are nearly 84mph, but I need slicks. With 2 tracks closing in our area in the last 3 months I almost feel like "why bother"
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on October 04, 2007, 11:58:06 PM
Thanks for the info. My best times to date, 95% stock including boost, are in the 9.30's in the 1/8, thats spinining the tires threw first, nearly sideways in second and I know theres more since my trap speeds are nearly 84mph, but I need slicks. With 2 tracks closing in our area in the last 3 months I almost feel like "why bother"
Life starts at 20Lb of boost! You need a set of E/T streets or Quick times and a air bag on the right rear spring. Rear sway bar works too..
Make sure you have a GOOD BPV...
On average how much does it cost to turbo a pinto? Any cheaper than a V8? It sounds like a nice project.
It really depends on what you can buy a donor car for... as a donor is the best way to do it.
It can be a fairly cheap road if you are frugal.
It is not uncommon to see donors for $500-750. Take what you need and sell the rest to recoup your investment.
As the pinto came with the 2.3 in it... it is an easier swap from a make it fit and look nice standpoint.
The engines are EFI, so the wiring and fuel system is more indepth than a carbed V8 tho.
You have trade offs no matter what you decide to do.
Jim
Quote from: fomogo on October 05, 2007, 05:49:35 PM
It really depends on what you can buy a donor car for... as a donor is the best way to do it.
It can be a fairly cheap road if you are frugal.
It is not uncommon to see donors for $500-750. Take what you need and sell the rest to recoup your investment.
As the pinto came with the 2.3 in it... it is an easier swap from a make it fit and look nice standpoint.
The engines are EFI, so the wiring and fuel system is more indepth than a carbed V8 tho.
You have trade offs no matter what you decide to do.
Jim
X2.
Bill
It sounds like one of those situations where the easier one is the one that turns out to be more convenient to find parts. Either way, both are an awesome way to give your pinto a little more go power.
A 'donor' for the V8 swap would need to be a V8 Mustang II to get all the "correct" parts, otherwise you will do much more fabrication.
Finding a 'donor' for the EFI turbo 2.3 is much easier, and most likely cheaper in the long run.
Both need lots of custom parts fabricated or modified.
Before you buy the donor, get a MIG welder and learn how to use it. A sawz-all and a hand held grinder are a must too.
Sorry for not mentioning this before: Don't spend more time with the car than you do for school. Your education is far more important that any car; cars will come later, and you will have more money to spend on them if you get a good education/career.
Bill
Ive got access to all of those tools thankfully. Ive got to admit Ive only used a MIG welder a few times and I was pretty bad at it. Putting a V8 or a V6 is in the far future though.... I dont even have any way to pay for it at the moment.
As much as I dislike being in school I always make sure to get my work done before I go out and play. I was told the same thing when I started to build computers so Ive got some experience with fighting off a potential addiction :)
So I take it there is a lot of wiring when it comes to a V6 turbo. Ive always thought these older cars were much more "mechanical" than "electrical." What do you need to wire in?
Quote from: Smeed on October 05, 2007, 08:31:02 PM
...So I take it there is a lot of wiring when it comes to a V6 turbo...
What V6T?
The wiring is more to do with if the engine has some sort of ECU or not.
Bill
The first poster said the wiring was over his head. I thought there may be more electrical components when it comes to any turbo.
Smeed, I know you understand this. I am posting this info in detail for others that might read this thread.
Cars that have a points set up (pre-75 ish) tend to have the least engine wiring to deal with; just a few wires.
The later cars (later Pintos included) don't have points, they have a spark module (box). There are more wires, but not a lot.
Later on, cars had ECUs (computers). These engines need a bunch of sensors, so they have a more complicated engine control harness. (like the one you posted the photo of)
The later turbo Fords had a BCS (boost control solenoid) added, but other than that they are ABOUT the same as that engine without a turbo. Installing or working with CFI or EFI for someone with little experence can be overwelming (like it was for me when I started my turbo project).
Bill
Putting a V8 in a Pinto (Today) is a complete waste of time & money! If you look there's a lot of turbo 2.3s in the junk yards or Craig's list dirt cheap. It's a direct swap. Wiring harness, any early fuel injected Mustang,Merkur,T-Bird it's simple with all the info out there.
I've had V8s since i started driving from 514 in a falcon ,427 SO in a 67 Mustang, 289 Hipo in my Shelby..
I'll take a Turbo 2.3! In the right car (Pinto or early Falcon) with the right combo you'll have a reliable daily driver with the ability to make low 12 sec passes and get terrific gas mileage!
The V8 & carburetors are history...
Having both of them, I will say they each have their good and bad points.
Yes, the 2.3T is better on gas, but nothing beats the sound of a 302 with dual Flow-Masters coming from a Pinto.
Bill
Quote from: 77turbopinto on October 06, 2007, 08:54:16 AM
but nothing beats the sound of a 302 with dual Flow-Masters coming from a Pinto.
Bill
Giving you a headache listing to the flowmasters from the V8!:lol:
I'll stick with the quiet exhaust and the Turbo singing..
Quote from: map351 on October 06, 2007, 10:52:54 AM
Giving you a headache listing to the flowmasters from the V8....
??
I never said I got a headache.
Bill
Quote from: Smeed on October 05, 2007, 05:08:37 PM
On average how much does it cost to turbo a pinto? Any cheaper than a V8? It sounds like a nice project.
Here's how lucky I was. My doner was rolled & smashed in the front, I paid somewhere around 300.00 for it (forgot now). After trying to push it on the car trailer for a good half hour, (as a joke) I tried my 87 f-250 key in the ignition and it worked. My brother reset the fuel switch as I spliced the cut battery cable and WA LA! It started. Sticking my head out the door (the roof was smashed) and hearing belts, pulleys and radiator colliding, I drove that sucker on the trailer. The impound yard guys were cracking up.
This is on TF..
He bought this pinto on eBay for 150.00 Bux. :lol:
http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=023415
Hey guys, had my pinto out for the last time of the season and got a new pb. We were finally blessed with some good track prep and good air (3500da) went a 10.67@125 first pass of the day and then went 10.58@125 with a 1.56 60' This is with a total stock 200k shortblock. Tried again today and blew my wastegate vaccum hose off and popped the head gasket between the 1 and 2 cylinders. Should have some Video up in the next day or 2.
Updated specs
Chassis type:71 Ford Pinto trunk, 6 point cage
short block mods/compression ratio/displacement:2.3 untouched
head/port work/valve size: big valve, mild porting
cam specs/degrees adv-ret: 2277 straight up
intake/throttle body: knifed lower rotated upper,supercoupe tb
intercooler:12x22x3 ebay air/air 2.5" ic pipe
nitrous system/shot size: zex dry .037 nitous jet
exhaust manifold: Homade log type
turbo:HY35 Holset
wastegate: 40mm external (ssauto)
exhaust size:3"
engine management: Holley Commander 950 3bar map 85lb injectors 255 pump
a/f ratio, total timing, boost: 30psi
fuel octane/brand/leaded or unleaded:94 oct, pump gas, Diy meth kit on @ 20 psi
hp@rpm:405 nitrous/365 without
flex plate/flywheel:stock pinto
convertor/clutch:restalled pinto 2200 rpm stall
transmission:C4, tci manual valvebody
rear/ratio/tire type/tire size:8" posi,3.55,26x10.5 ET streets
Race weight without driver:2020
ET/MPH:10.58@125
Thanks guys, Matt if I could get my 60's down I'm sure it will go faster. I think I might do a rering/crower rod shortblock this winter and see if I can pull off a 9.99 next year with the Iron head.
I realize it's a stretch but it sure would be nice for some "industrious individual" to put together a blow-by-blow methodology for installing a turbo motor into a Pinto...or a V8 for that matter. Sure, it's a lot of work, but I'd pay for such a volume. There are some of us guys who are real good at body, paint and details - and then there are those who can do a motor/drivetrain up in their sleep. I lean more towards the former, but I'm not ashamed to trod new waters, so to speak.
Right now, I just dream of a completely sand or media blasted Pinto body that I can start from scratch with - that would be SLICK....nothing like a frame off resto to get the blood flowing. I'll never forget doing it to my '57 Chevy, and it is a very, very rewarding adventure.
Chris
I have thought about putting a book together. The reason I have not done it, it that with so many different turbo Ford harnesses from the different years/cars, I know that without ALL the information on how to work with all of it (something I have not done), it would be incomplete. Yes, I could just put together a full "how I did it", but that would limit anyone trying to use it as 'directions'. Add into the mix, say, someone that buys a 'turbo' harness that winds up NOT a turbo harness, buys bad parts, and then they blame me for having incorrect info, or they don't follow ALL the steps and FRY the ECU, and blame me; no thanks. As much as I love Judge Judy.....
Stuff like that would make me want to limit the info in such a book, and if so, I would also need to title and describe its content correctly as such because I don't want others to feel the same way I did when I bought that $8. "V8 Pinto" book on ebay. I put it in the trash the day I got it (5 years ago). IMHO: It had NO information I did not already know, that I could not have thought of, found HERE, or found out at a Ford dealer in 2 minutes.
I have posted 95%+ of what I would put in such a book right in the FAQ section on this site. If you need more info, or have any questions, please ask me.
Here are a few tips for this project.
1) Don't hack up the stock Pinto harness. If for some reason you have to end the turbo swap, you can get the car running again with the stock engine.
2) Don't start this project without HAVING ALL the parts you THINK you need.
3) If you can, get a KNOWN RUNNING donor (engine and harness). That way you know if for some reason it does not run after installation, you will know where to look.
4) Have a way to cut, fabricate and weld parts before you start. Either get all the equipment you need or have someone that has or can do it for you. There are lots of parts that need to be made or altered.
5) Don't rush.
6) Don't be affraid to ask questions.
Bill