Here are some pictures of my Pinto. It was raced through out the north west US and Canada from 1976 to about 1986 in the ICSCC (International Conference of Sports Car Clubs). It was F Production Champion at least three times with three different drivers. It is still in original unrestored condition. I did make a few Intake and exhaust modifications that wouldn't have been legal in F Production, but intake and exhaust are pretty easy to change back. And I put in new Race seats. This is a LOW budget race car intended for autocross since I live in one of the worst parts of the country for road racing (Oregon) and I don't have the money or means to travel the hundreds of miles to reach the nearest tracks.
here's a 3/4 shot.
Here's a rear shot. I figured "If you're going to race a pinto you have to have a good since of humor."
I love it...the colors and the raw race stance....
that one to keep...
I raced a 71 about that low ..I could run over a pack of cigarets and drag them.
is the interior gutted?
Frank
Here's the engine bay. I have TRW pop-up pistons that came with it, 0.032" copper head gasket with an o-ringed block, 4 38mm Mikuni side drafts, Schoenfeld header to a 3" mandrel bent exhaust with a 5" Supertrap, a 40k volt coil to Magnicore 8.5mm wires to Autolite iridium plugs. Soon I will instal an MSD box. I think my compression is around 11:1 and I run a mixture of 118 octaine leaded race fuel and premium split 50/50. It also has a Racer Walsh adjustable cam gear and a #2 cam with .450 lift and duration of 245/252 int/exh @ 0.050. Notice I moved my brake master cylinder forward to accomidate the air filters. In the future I would like to do big valves, flow the head, and possibly run velosity stacks. But that gets pretty spendy. I haven't taken it to a dino yet, but when I do I'll post the results.
Here's the interior. The seats don't match because I bought them separately on ebay. The original fiberglass seat was much too narrow for me so the first seat was a necessity at the time of purchase.
Here's a picture of the cage.
Here's the how low it is with my 20" tall race slicks. It's not quite so bad with some taller radials. That is a golf ball used for reference.
When the car came to me it was a rolling chassy, 4 plastic crates of engine parts with a fresh bare block and a clean assembled head. It also came with a rebuildable second motor that turned out to have a spun rod bearing, so I am a crank short of having enough patrs for a second motor. Not too bad for $300.
Looks like a fun car. I always did like the white & blue color scheme. I assume the master cylinder relocation was for intake/carb clearance (neat idea). In case it is not just the photo angle, make sure your battery cable does not short on the header.
My 71's sheet metal use to crack where the fire wall meets the inner fender due to all the body flex. I would weld it up but it would crack again. It almost looks like yours has been welded up there also. If your are having the same problem, adding bars from the roll cage to the forward frame rails should help reduce flex.
The battery cable isn't as close to the header as it appears. But thanks for mentioning it oldkayaker. I will get a ziptie on it to keep it from moving around.
I had noticed the extra welds in the corners as well. I've wanted to extend that roll cage forward but I have to figure out how to make it fit so it won't be in the way. I was thinking possibly under the fenders, but that wouldn't be very direct and may not add that much strength.