I have always liked the "sleeper" look, but I have always loved slotted alum. wheels too. I found these at a swap meet back in the fall, with 3 of the 4 centers. I knew that the centers were available aftermarket so I got them and got the center (MU). Why someone makes a re-pop from a ONE year, ONE model item.... To the tires: Thanks to helping a friend clean up his yard, I ripped the front bumper off my Blazer and needed a new one. I found a local JY that had one cheap, and while I was there I found 2 used 215/60-14 RWL Coopers cheap too. I made a call to my buddy that found me 2 new 195/60-14 (not so cheap).
Now to paint it (bright yellow), install the all-glass hatch, detail the engine bay, install the front and rear spoilers.....
Bill
I love Slotted Rims also. I think that wheels make a car.
Yours looks great Bill. :fastcar:
turbowagonman
Thanks.
Bill
Nice look bill.
Keep your Pinto Tan, it stands out more!!!
From Pintony
Thanks Tony.
I do like having it the factory color, but the interior was so bad I had to do something with it, and the cheap thing was to go to black. The car NEEDS a paint job and the tan and black just don't seem to work well together.
Don't know when I will get to it though.
Bill
Quote from: 77turbopinto on July 05, 2007, 08:27:35 AM
Thanks Tony.
I do like having it the factory color, but the interior was so bad I had to do something with it, and the cheap thing was to go to black. The car NEEDS a paint job and the tan and black just don't seem to work well together.
Don't know when I will get to it though.
Bill
"Black and Tan"..............isn't that an Adult Beverage ;D
turbowagonman
Quote from: turbowagonman on July 05, 2007, 04:05:45 PM
"Black and Tan"..............isn't that an Adult Beverage ;D
turbowagonman
Never heard of it before, but yep!
- ->> Black and Tan is a drink made from a blend of pale ale and a dark beer such as a stout or porter. Sometimes a pale lager is used instead of ale; this is more usually called a half and half. In Ireland both Stout and Ale drinkers may order a black and tan for variety. Contrary to popular belief, however, Black and Tan is not a drink commonly consumed in Ireland.
With the central FL heat and humidity right now, my glass of iced tea is working wonders...
A NEWER look.
Bill
Would have liked to use this one, but....
Bill
Bill that looks pretty cool.
Apologies ahead of time for the quick thread hijack, but this reminded me of a Pinto spoiler story, had to tell.
Had a fiberglass spoiler similar to that on my 1976 Pinto wagon (the one in the "My First Pinto" thread). The one I had hung a little bit lower and really pushed alot of air. Anyway, had a huge rainstorm, I'm driving home from work through the Ohio countryside trying to get home fast because I gotta get to the airport to fly out to meet my girlfriend. I go down a dip in the road and into what I think is going to be a puddle, which turns out to be about a foot and a half deep. It was like hitting air brakes, there was a loud cracking noise and the car came to an almost complete stop as water shot straight up the front of the car and over the hood. It was pretty impressive.
Got home, looked at the spoiler as I ran around the front of the car and into the house, it looked fine. I grabbed my luggage and jumped back into the car. Heading down the street the muffler decides to let go and suddenly the car is making all kinds of loud noise. I pull to the side of the road and see the exhaust pipe has broken right in front of the muffler and the muffler and tailpipe hanging low (might have been caused by the water, not really sure). Luck was on my side as I found a wire coat-hanger by the side of the road and was able to twist it to fashion a muffler hanger to keep the muffler and tailpipe from scraping the ground.
I'm back in the car and now running very late. Get on I-275 going around Cincinnati, trying to get to the Greater Cincinnati airport in Kentucky (why they put it there is beyond me). Again luck was on my side as back in the 1970's (when this all occurred) I-275 was pretty deserted. So I am making up time by keeping it just below triple figures. My little Pony is SCREAMING as I am basically running the equivalent of open headers at this time with no muffler or tailpipe.
I get to the Ohio river and just as I hit the expressway bridge to cross, as I am traversing the prominent lip on the bridge, I hear a HUGE CRUNCH. I figure my wire coat-hanger muffler hanger let go and the muffler and tailpipe were probably just ripped out of the back of the car. I pull to the side of the highway and jump out and run around the back of the car and look. Muffler and tailpipe are still holding up nicely. I run around the front of the car, the spoiler is gone. I look back on the road, no spoiler. Where the hell is it. I get down on my hands and knees and look and the fiberglass spoiler is twisted and tangled up under the car, partially caught in the engine compartment and partially tangled on the transmission. So I'm trying to pull this shattered fiberglass out from under the car, shredding my bare hands in the process. Finally get most of it out, throw it all in the back of the car, and jump back on the highway and make it to the airport just in time to see my plane take off without me.
Never put another spoiler on that car.
Thanks,
-Tim
You call that a "quick thread hijack"????
Sorry about the spoiler.
I have the same concerns for mine, maybe more so if it were F/G. If the plastic one gets hit, it will rip and is not very good to repair. If a F/G one gets hit, it is easier to repair, but can damage the car. 6 of 0ne..... Needless to say I did not make the mount brackets TOO strong (I do not have the Ford ones).
Bill
At the time it was devastating to my twenty-two year old ego, which was so wrapped up in my car, but now I look back on it and think the whole thing was hysterical.
The spoiler I had was made by a company called EMCO or something like that. They made these complete custom kits for Pintos and Mustang II's and Mavericks and Capris from that period (mid 1970's). It would make your car look like one of the IMSA racers. It was designed to sit really low in the front, and it did. I figure that when I hit the water, it cracked or broke the fiberglass at a number of the mounting points and then when the spoiler was pushing through the air at ninety some miles per hour, it must have been just scraping along the surface of the expressway. Then when the lip of the bridge appeared, it was a goner.
I think you'll be fine with the one you have on there. It sits up higher, and that flexible material really helps absorb the impact if you ever do drive it into deep water. You have a point about the repairs. Not sure how you would fix that.
Looks cool though. Congrats,
-Tim
Bill,
The new wheels look GREAT! Noticed the 5 lug pattern, subtle clue to what may be under the hood ;D
Thanks.
BTW: I need to make it VERY CLEAR that these 1973 Mustang wheels are NOT A DRIECT BOLT to the Maverick rear or the Granada rotors that I have on the car; the center holes needed to be opened to 2.75" and chamfered on the inside. I knew all this when I got them, but I also have a good friend with a machine shop in his "barn"....
Bill
Damn... TOTALLY changed the look of the car... I LIKE!!
Jim
Thanks Jim.
Glad to see you back around here; I know you have been busy.
I also have to thank Paul L. for his help with the wheels.
Bill
I have the 79/80 rear spoiler and 'supporting parts' now on the car. Step one was to swap to the all glass hatch, step two was not as easy; it's hard to start drilling into the body like that. The first hole was the 'hardest', but after that I was committed and installing the rest of the holes was much more 'relaxed'. I was able to drill the flange off of the donor car and install it on the tan car. The hatch seal is SIGNIFACANTLY different, but thanks to Pintony I am good to go (BTW: I am still in need of that handle).
The 3 spoiler sections all had the mount plates busted off. I had to make new ones for the center part and I was able to use the original screws, but the outer sections just needed the plates to be reattached. The center section also had cracks in the corners of the tail light reliefs that needed to be fixed. I need to do a little more mounting work to the center section because most of the screw slots are broken. I know I will figure out something soon, otherwise I can't drive the car without risk of damage. I just have primer-sealer on them because I am painting the car and I don't want to waste time and money, and I still need to do the finish blocking on them.
We will post some photos "soon".
Bill
Now that I am back.....
One more...
Bill,
I really like the changes in your car. They really improve the looks of it. ;D
I wish I could find a small spoiler for the back of my 75 runabout.
jim
Thanks Jim.
Bill
Now with sport mirrors....
The right side is a non-remote that was found in the back of the new C/W, the left was found at an indoor swap meet (more like a flea market, way too many new junk venders, sorry...) at the Big 'E' about a year and a half ago along with the right side remote.
I am currently installing the C/W gauges. This is not fun, but at least I found the right parts to move the A/C center duct to the right to make room for the 3 gauges. I have most of it figured out, now I just need a few more hours in a day.
Also, I found out that the C/W front sway bar is .925" compaired to the regular .875 bar. Just for ha-ha's, I removed the 1.0" Mustang II bar and installed the C/W one. Hard to tell the difference because the car has a better mech. advantage on the MII bar (shape of the bar to reach around the oil pan). Yes, the MII bar rotates the endlinks to the outside and will bend and brake them from time to time (HOW do I know this??). I have another 1.0+" bar I had on my 79; it is as wide as the MII one, but the 'arm's are much shorter and I had to make custom mounts to fit it UNDER the oil pan. It worked great, went through many more end links, but when it was not popping them, it was ripping chassis spot welds.
I can't wait to get this car painted....
Bill
I was able to get the gauges in. The only thing I did not quite "finish" is the ammeter. I used the two wires from the stock idiot light and installed a light on the lower dash. After studying the book, I think there is a typo about how the gauge gets wired. Until I figure that out, I have the light. So that I don't have to dig back into the upper dash, I ran extensions from the gauge down behind the center console; when I want, I can hook it up, and maybe keep the light too.
The entire job was not as difficult as I thought it would be. The only hard part was finding the A/C dash parts I was looking for. With having a tach. on the column, it was just a matter of re-pinning the connector to the speedo, moving the tach. wires, hooking up a connector for the dash gauges (a 'pig tail' helped), unplugging the temp. switch (leaving the oil switch alone to work the 'engine' light), installing a temp. sending unit, and running a new wire from the temp. sender to the gauge.
In doing this swap I learned that there are at least 2 different arrangements for the wires in the NON- tach. speedo wire connector. Out of the 14 wires locations, 4 are in different slots. No big deal because most of them need to move anyway. A sharp tool will unhook them to move them where needed. I also found that if you open up a regular female flat tab connector, the stock speedo connector ends will slide in and lock (then wrap them in elec. tape and secure with 'zip-ties'.
For anyone attempting this swap: DO NOT CUT THE RESISTOR WIRE. You will need to move it to the 3 gauge connector. I used a regular wire from the 'pigtail' to extend it to where it needed to be. The length of THAT SECTION of wire is CRITICAL to it's 8-9 OHMS requirement to work the fuel and temp. gauges.
There were 14 wire locations used in the 'normal' NON-tach. speedo connector, but only 10 in the speedo/tach. gauge main connector. All but one are the same color(s), but the only one that was not did not need to be moved. Also there are 4 wires to the tach. connector, but left the gray wire off (works fine). The 3 gauge cluster uses only 7 of the slots (bottom row).
For some reason the seatbelt light was staying on; I always wear them, so out came that bulb. Also, my high-beam light still has a good bulb, but STILL does not work; I need to look at the switch.
I thought I had some interior photos to use as "before" shots, but I guess not, so any "after" shots would not have the same impact. Oh, well...
Connie and I took it to a cruise at a place we had not gone to before. It was so nice having a tach. that was accurate, and having a temp. GAUGE!!
Bill
Hey Bill,
I would never run an Amp Guage..
If the guage fails it will not allow U to to have any power.
If the BIG wire that comes off the Alt. is disconnected U will have NO power to the solinoid. to activate your ignition.
Install a volt guage instead.
From Pintony
I would much prefer to have a volt meter anyway so the idiot light is fine for me. I went to R-S and got a 6.3 volt bulb (the amp light wire has about 8 volts when on) and holder with a red lens.
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,8023.0.html
Bill