i have read about a few people using 2 left musatng II motor mounts for a v8 swap. i have the oppertunity to buy some mustang II mounts, except it is the left and the right and the tranny mount. does it have to be 2 lefts or can i use the left and the right
thank you
i used a pair Left and Right.
Had to remove the Frame mount on the Left (drivers) side and move it back.
I just left it out set the motor in place bolted the frame mount to the motor mount tack welded it to the frame to be properly welded in with the engine back out.(this is just the way i did it :rolleye:)
Tim
thank you for the information, it sounds like that will be the way i will be doing it too , since you made it sound so easy
I have said it before, I will again:
Anyone building a V8 Pinto should NOT use Mustang II motor mounts.
My reason is that they are made of unobtainium.
Why use such a rare and expensive part? With minor work you can use other ones that are made in the aftermarket and are very inexpensive.
Bill
I have a set of Hooker V8 motor mounts for a 71-73 Pinto. The instruction sheet calls for the use of two Ford mount mounts, D7ZZ-6038-B left side Mustang II V8 motor mounts. Which mount in the aftermarket will work in this situation and with what modifications.
Thanks, Bob
Falcon V8 rubber mounts and some "early days" aftermarket mounts.
I found these mounts on ebay and paid way too much for what they are. Realistically they can be made with some fab work and 1/8 plate steel fairly cheaply. The best part is you just go to napa to get the mounts for $18. However ive heard that under high TQ/HP that these mounts have a rep for tearing. (Read 400+hp)
To find the mounting spot I turned the C4 trans mount around and drilled some new holes to locate the v8 trans mount and thus the engine. Then I found the spot to drill holes for the mounts. Word of warning though, don't just drill holes in the "frame" and expect the "strength" of the steel to hold the bolts tight. I welded some tube steel in each hole to actually hold the crush of the 1/2 13 bolt and nut. The reason i didn't weld the mounts in is that with my modified Mustang II headers i had to install the entire assy (trans,headers,Engine)as one unit. With the mounts permanently welded i couldn't have gotten the headers past very easily even with the load leveler i have.
Another issue is that the engine doesnt sit exactly in the middle of the bay. Its offset slightly to the passenger side. How much ? Im not sure.
If you can to make life a little easier on the trans tunnle get the mustang II bell, 144tooth flywheel(28oz), separator plate and convertor. There still is some clearancing issues that you have to deal with so REMOVE the heater box if you intend to keep it. Its very close to the other side of the banging and its made of fiberglass so it will shatter. I cut and welded clearance ( not very well but it worked )
Headers are a toutchy and expensive subject. Old Blackjack/Cyclone Mustang II headers will work with the early style cable shaft BUT to clear the header the engine needs to sit way to high. About 2" to 3" higher than i wanted. So there needs to be mods to the headers I personally rebuilt the entire header so much so that i would use them as a pattern, but start with a pile of tubes and flanges Especially since i paid 250 for the headers and then another150 for tubes and collectors, then another 220 for the coating. :what: :what: You do the math. :surprised:
Note: Ive heard some peps say bad things about the cable "shaft" Mine personally was in nice shape,however also am replacing it with a NOS one to be safe.
The hooker solution is the easiest solution but i hate the look.
Early exhaust manifolds that dont turn down like from a low HP 289 are the easiest way out. However UHHGGG!!! (dont mean to offend as i know some have done that here. Just MO :smile:)
Dont let my opinion sway you though when were talking upwards of 500 to 1000 for headers. Is the extra 20 hp worth it? You decide.
I know this was just supposed to be about the mounts. I got carried away LOL
Good luck
Mustang II frame side engine mount brackets do not "direct bolt" into a Pinto, early or later. This means you need to do work somewhere, so why not save yourself lots of money?
I was planning to build a V8 Pinto when I bought one. Not to say that I could not do it myself, but I found one local that was nice but in need of some work. I had to pull the engine and tranny out to do some work. The stock Pinto squishy tranny mount was still in it, but I replaced it with one for a 68 Mustang with very little effort. Before I swapped the mount, I took a BUNCH of measurements to insure the tranny was back where it was. This is the way I was going to do the V8 swap too, locate the tranny, get cheap engine mounts, and modify the frame side brackets to meet the mounts.
Because my engine sits VERY low, I swapped out the starter with a GR one to make some room to the crossmember. There is about 1/8" from the rack to the pan, but they are both rubber mounted so I am not worried. Until I did the starter, it had about the same room, now I have better than 1/2".
Yes, the engine needs to be slightly to the right because that is where the tranny is, and you need the room for the steering shaft.
Also, I have the full heater box in my car. No issues or modifications to the firewall either. If someone wanted to move the engine back a bit, it would be the easy way to make room.
Bill