I just replaced the driverside floor pan because it was completely rusted through. I had a donor pan I cut out of an 80 Bobcat that was rust free. Wow, what a pain in the royal neck. It took me about 11 hours to finish. In spots the metal was so thin, the little wire welder I was using would blow through the metal as soon as I hit the trigger. Weld, Weld, Profanity, Profanity, Weld, Grind, Weld, Grind, Profanity. After all that, I am never replacing floor pans again. Anyway, the passenger side is in the beginning stages of rusting too. So what are you guys using or doing to stop rust in it's tracks and preventing it from coming back?
I brush it down to bare metal... and use POR15 on it.
Jim
Well I've read alot about Por-15 and it seems like really good stuff but I have heard alot of guys say that it peeled off after awhile but I think that it was all in the way they prepped the surface or I should say lack of prepping. The only thing stopping me from buying some Por-15 is the price. What about Eastwoods "rust encapsulator" kit?
Quote from: 77turbowagon on June 14, 2007, 04:51:12 PM
Well I've read alot about Por-15 and it seems like really good stuff but I have heard alot of guys say that it peeled off after awhile but I think that it was all in the way they prepped the surface or I should say lack of prepping. The only thing stopping me from buying some Por-15 is the price. What about Eastwoods "rust encapsulator" kit?
You are so right when you say "I think that it was all in the way they prepped the surface or I should say lack of prepping." It's all in the prep work with anything!!! I don't know anyone who has used Eastwoods "rust encapsulator" kit, but I know a ton of people, along with me, who have used Por-15. The stuff is great and it works well if you "Prep the surface correctly"
turbowagonman
I know this will label me as a smart-alek, but I have a great way to prevent rust:
Move to Arizona!
:lol: ;D
Looks like I'm going to try some Por-15. I'll get one of their starter kits to see how well it goes on.
Douglasskemp: Arizona, West Texas? Not much difference. The only rust on the car was the floor pans only because rain water was coming in through the windsheild gasket and running straight to the floor. A new windsheild gasket will be installed shortly.
Quote from: douglasskemp on June 15, 2007, 07:01:49 AM
I know this will label me as a smart-alek, but I have a great way to prevent rust:
Move to Arizona!
:lol: ;D
Now it's time for ME to be a smart-alek, All you have to do is BUY a car from Arizona or West Texas. ;D
turbowagonman
Quote from: 77turbowagon on June 15, 2007, 09:18:27 AM
Arizona, West Texas? Not much difference. The only rust on the car was the floor pans only because rain water was coming in through the windsheild gasket and running straight to the floor.
Major bummer about the windshield gasket, but I feel your pain as my 78 had that problem too. Luckily, it spent most of it's time in a covered carport.
Quote from: turbowagonman on June 15, 2007, 04:36:28 PM
Now it's time for ME to be a smart-alek, All you have to do is BUY a car from Arizona or West Texas. ;D
Well, depending on how things go, I may have an orig. AZ 79 hatch and a Utah 77 wagon going up for sale within the next few months.
Quote from: douglasskemp on June 15, 2007, 06:22:12 PM
Well, depending on how things go, I may have an orig. AZ 79 hatch and a Utah 77 wagon going up for sale within the next few months.
I live in Northeast Ohio. Shipping would be a killer on price!
I got an 80 Wagon from Wisconsin (were they don't use Salt in the winter) and the guy met me half way in Joliet Illinois.
turbowagonman
I've got some rust under the paint on my rear quarter panels. How do I go about stopping that stuff? Sand it down then por-15 it and repaint?
Quote from: dave1987 on June 20, 2007, 02:21:17 PM
I've got some rust under the paint on my rear quarter panels. How do I go about stopping that stuff? Sand it down then por-15 it and repaint?
Well, from what I have heard about Por-15 is that it is pretty much for metal you don't look at often like trunks and floor pans. I heard it's appearance isn't very appealing but I'm not absolutely sure.
Well I didn't Por-15 the floor pan but here's a few pics of the floor pan after the repair. I thought I got a before pic of the pan but I guess I didn't.
(http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/ramblinfsj/misc/100_2804.jpg)
(http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/ramblinfsj/misc/100_2831.jpg)
It's not the best you've ever seen but it will do.
What if I used it on the undercarriage?
77turbowagon that looks great!
Good Job!
turbowagonman
Quote from: dave1987 on June 22, 2007, 02:39:42 PM
What if I used it on the undercarriage?
It would be great for undercarriage use. You just have to get the metal absolutely as clean as you can get it. I mean the "Navy White Glove Test" clean. After that it should go on without any problems.
Quote from: turbowagonman on June 22, 2007, 03:38:10 PM
77turbowagon that looks great!
Good Job!
turbowagonman
Thanks man. I got the feeling that might be the easy part of the restoration. The turbo engine will be going in soon and I'm not looking forward to the wiring. We mocked up everything in the engine compartment last night with a junk spare 2.3turbo to get most of the clearance problems of the turbo and exhaust out of the way. We modified the frame side of the engine mounts to move the engine to the driverside a quarter inch and hammered the passenger side wheelwell a bit and the turbo fit great with plenty of room to bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Well, Back to work.
Quote from: 77turbowagon on June 22, 2007, 04:42:51 PM
The turbo engine will be going in soon and I'm not looking forward to the wiring. We mocked up everything in the engine compartment last night with a junk spare 2.3turbo to get most of the clearance problems of the turbo and exhaust out of the way. We modified the frame side of the engine mounts to move the engine to the driverside a quarter inch and hammered the passenger side wheelwell a bit and the turbo fit great with plenty of room to bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Well, Back to work.
Don't worry about the wiring. It looks worse than it really is, remember don't rush yourself and double check yourself BEFORE you power it up.
I do have a question though, if I understand your text right you moved the engine over to the Drivers side a 1/4"? I've never heard of anyone doing that good idea. How did you do that, Slot the drivers side Frame Mount and put spacers on the Pass side?
turbowagonman
I cut the driver side frame mount in half and took a quarter inch out of it and welded it back together. The passenger side is spaced with a quarter inch piece of plate steel with the bolt holes drilled in it. We bolted up the the mounts, dropped in the spare engine as a mock up, and everything cleared for the most part. With a little pounding in certain spots on the wheelwell, everything fit.
I just used this stuff of the driver's side floor pan in my 78 sedan that has gotten bad. It's rusted through in spots, but not to the point that it's destroyed. I plan to cut it out and put a new one in at some point of time though. Great stuff
Well I ordered some Por-15 a few days ago and got it last night. I used it on the fenderwell where the battery tray was. It was badly rusted so I welded in new sheetmetal where needed and Por-15ed the rest. I also bought some of there Por Patch that comes in a tube which is Por-15 just thicker. The Por Patch feeled inthe holes beautifully and then painted Por-15 over that. The finish turned out nice and smooth and it cured rock hard. So far it performs as advertised. I'll get some pics of before and after.