I'm sure I've seen this topic mentioned here before, but I can't find where it was now. I need a new floor for my 77 Bobcat HB, and probably for one of my Cruising Wagons as well. Anyone making these things, or is there anything that anyone has successfully adapted to fit Pintos? I can have someone create them I suppose, but I don't weld yet myself. What am I up against? There has to be a common need for these things... ???
All of mine have had very good pans, but I have seen a couple of Pintos with rotted floors. The areas that tend to rot are fairly flat and easy to make. I don't know of any aftermarket floors, nor do I know of what car that is close (even if you find some, after you buy and modify them, it might be cheaper and easier just to make them). There are places out there that will repair them for you, just get a few different quotes as prices will can be quite different on shop to the next.
Bill
I know 77-80 Pinto/Bobcat floor pans are the same because I just got done replacing the driver pan on my 77 Wagon with a 80 Bobcat HB pan. So best I can say is find a donor car. From my experience it is a P.I.T.A.
I've done Two 80 floor pans and found the easiest way is to use 14 ga. sheet metal and cut it lange, bend it to fit , and then trim it to fit. When doing this make sure you cut away ALL the "Cancer", going into good metal makes it so much easier when you are welding the new pan in.
turbowagonman
Thanks for the input. You might explain P.I.T.A. for me though...Another question. If I get the metal set to go, how do I properly align holes for the seats, just kind of wing it, or possibly measure against a car with a good floor? Also, my car cancer seems to go up a ways around the footwells, same solution basically?
P.I.T.A. = Pain In The A$$
Q: If I get the metal set to go, how do I properly align holes for the seats
Did you already cut the whole floor out??? Is your floor THAT bad. If it is um......
If not measure where the holes are at presently, and try to mark the Rockers and take your measurements from there.
I know with my first project they were bad but I only had to replace the sheet metal by Front holes so I measured what the spacing was from the rear holes.
If you do have to replace the whole floor and haven't cut it out yet, do it front half first measuing hole location off of the remaining back holes. Then the rear half measuring hole location off of the new front holes. Keep in mind you need to weld the New floor pans to the Sub-Frames.
Now, if your car is that bad with rust, meaning you have to replace the whole floor, what is the strength of the rest of the car? How strong are the Rockers? How is your Front Shackle at the Leaf Springs? ???
I don't mean this in a way to slam your car, I'm just asking are you throwing good money to bad? I scrapped a car that I had alot of hours in and a TON of money thrown into fixing the cancer on it. Then I bought a car (10 years later) that had nearly no Cancer at all and after digging into it there was some there in the cracks and crevises. No large holes in the floor just a ton of tiny pin holes so I replaced the floor pan by where the Drivers heels are at. I guess what I'm saying is try not to dump alot of money into a car that has alot of rust because it will re-surface in 5-6 years. I can attest to it.
If you are doing this for practice or to re-sell do it as cheap as possible.
If you are doing this as a keeper really look into what the whole car overall needs to be done, put it down on a list, then sit down and review the list.
turbowagonman
Listed is a website that makes reproduction floor pans for the mustang II. Will they match????
http://www.dfortuna.com/
Good info.
I'm not sure if they will fit though. :(
turbowagonman
From the picture, the floor pans look different.
I'm going to get some photos of the car soon and try to post them here. I've been having difficulty getting pictures on here thus far; I'm pretty certain the fault lies with my settings as the photo files are larger than acceptable. There is a good amount of rust on the car, and I'll get more specific in a while after I spend some more time out there. I would love to have someone look at this and tell me what it will take to repair this car. I want the car, so I'll spend the money. I took my Cruising Wagon to D and D Restorations in Covington, Ohio. They do a lot of Concourse grade restorations on things like Ferraris and Rolls Royce, though they also have an AMC Concord and some 76 Bicentennial Cadillacs in there. The guy said he could easily see $30,000 to $40,000 going into the CW. I said not if I was going to stay married...I'm willing to spend some money, but not like that on a car that will never be worth half what I would invest. I have a figure in mind for my Bobcat, and if I can stay under that figure, I'll be ok. I just have to find someone who can do some welding and cutting, or learn to do it myself. I'm having my garage floor (currently gravel) concreted as part of a major construction project here at the house. So very shortly my backyard will have a small car lot look going for it with both Cruising Wagons, the Bobcat and a Mustang II setting inside the fence. After the floor is done though I can get more into the Bobcat, gravel is tricky in some ways. The sewer guy seems to want my Mustang II. I might just let him have it if he brings money.
Quote from: FlyerPinto on June 19, 2007, 08:00:35 AM
I'm going to get some photos of the car soon and try to post them here. I've been having difficulty getting pictures on here thus far; I'm pretty certain the fault lies with my settings as the photo files are larger than acceptable.
I had the same problem (with the file size being too large). When I went on "Your Pintos" there is a bit of good info on how to post pics there. I'll attach a link here, check it out.
turbowagonman
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=40&topic=232.0