I've been working on the 2.3L engine in the 77 Bobcat. I've replaced the battery, fuel pump, distributor, rotor, voltage regulator, plug wires, air cleaner, air filter, pvc filter, and will be finishing up with belts and hoses tonight. I put new gas in the tank, along with some STP Gas Treatment, but was unable to drain the tank prior (it did sound empty). I can get her to turn over when I spray starting fluid in the top of the carb, but thus far not beyond that. I'm not sure where to go next with this other than having someone check the carb, the lines and the fuel tank, something I'm not sure I can do myself but would pay someone if it would get me on the road, so to speak. Any other ideas or thoughts on what I might check here? I'm planning on installing new plugs but my socket wasn't quite deep enough, and I'll change the oil and filter once I get her running long enough to warm it up. I just can't get there yet...
How is the Fuel filter?
This should work if you have clogged fuel lines, try just running a rubber hose from the fuel pump to a gas can on the ground.
How close is your timing? I see you replaced the Dissy. so did you make sure the Cam and the Crank were both at TDC? You can have the Crank at TDC and the Cam be out 180° so check that. The cam has marks on it also (two dots one on the cam and one on the head).
Hope that helps.
turbowagonman
I've never changed a fuel filter before, but it doesn't look overly difficult so I'll give that a shot tomorrow. The rubber hose thing I'll have to get some more info on. This was my first fuel pump, and though I'm not 100% certain I did it properly, I feel reasonably confident. I'll need to know which line to unhook and replace with a hose. I want to be certain about this one as I have a tendency to set things on fire anyway and a gas line is something I want to handle carefully till I'm a little more comfortable doing it. I don't have any idea about checking the cam and crank at tdc. I've read about it, but I don't have any experience with it. Is it something a rookie can handle? I know I'll need a timing light but beyond that I'm probably ok. Is it possible to check this when the car won't run though? Any help would be appreciated.
On the rubber hose thing, the Line coming from the Tank (should be steel) is the one you need to disconnect. Then you will have to make a short Steel line with the same size fitting on it (as the one you just removed) and screw it into the "hole" in the fuel pump (the same one you removed the fitting from) then attach the rubber hose (from the short Steel line and fitting) using a hose clamp. Then take the other end of the rubber hose and submerse it in the small gas can.
As for the fuel filter I believe it should just be an in-line before the carb or it may screw into the front of the carb.
To check TDC of the Distributor, Cam & Crank:
Crank, it is marked on the Crank pulley just make the pulley read "Zero" (on the pulley) into the groove on the timing chain cover. You'll be at TDC!
Cam, if it is the Blue Timing Belt cover, which it should be, you'll have to remove the outer cover to expose the Cam pulley and there should be a Dot on one of the pulley teeth, line that up with the mark on a "Tab" or "Inner timing belt cover" (not to sure because it has been so long since I did this on an N/A Motor) if it has three marks such as the Turbo Motor line it up with the center mark. Your cam will be at TDC!
The Distributor (Dissy), on your Cap it should be marked with a "1" that is cyl. #1, put a mark on the Dissy itself with a magic marker then pull the cap off and see if that is where the Rotor is pointing. If not you will have to pull the Dissy and line it up on the re-install. You could just be off by a tooth, with that you can just make up the adjustment with loosening the Dissy and move it a little.
So check the Cam & Crank first if both of those are at TDC and your Dissy is off by alot it is oas simple as just removing the Dissy and do a re-install with the Rotor pointing at the mark you made with the magic marker. Your right, you will need to get a timing light and find out the spec for the Timing which should be marked on the Label on the Valve Cover. If your label is gone or wore out call a parts store. With everything set at TDC it will start but will be a little rough running but once you get the Timing set right it will smooth out. One suggestion I have when you are setting the timing, put a chalk or light paint mark on the Crank pulley (when engine is not running) at the recommended timing degree mark (on the pulley).
I hope this helps to get your Bobcat running.
turbowagonman
I picked up a fuel filter last night and tried it out today. I didn't have any trouble getting the old one out and before I installed the new one I checked to see if any fuel was coming out of the line when I tried to start the car. (I did have an assistant on this particular step) Not a drop of fuel came out of the line. I know there is fuel in the tank; it just isn't getting to the carb. As I said before, I know the car will run with starting fluid sprayed in the top of the carb, so I just have to get it there on its' own. My local parts guy suggested taking the fuel line off at the tank and blowing high pressure air into it, which I will give a try later this week. Other than that, and retracing my steps to the new fuel pump I installed, what else is there I can do?
Did you try the cranking test with the gas cap off? I'm not sure if your rig uses a vented cap or not, but if your gas cap is supposed to be vented and isn't, that will cause problems.
One other possibility is that the pickup tube inside the tank is plugged with "stuff". Since the tank has fuel in it, the easiest thing to do would be to pressurize the fuel line from the fuel pump to the tank, and try to blow the line clear. Make sure the gas cap is off! Don't go too hog wild with the pressure, it shouldn't take much.
?????
Quote from: bob55 on June 02, 2007, 10:47:12 PM
One other possibility is that the pickup tube inside the tank is plugged with "stuff". Since the tank has fuel in it, the easiest thing to do would be to pressurize the fuel line from the fuel pump to the tank, and try to blow the line clear. Make sure the gas cap is off! Don't go too hog wild with the pressure, it shouldn't take much.
?????
That is a great Idea bob55. Only down side to it is if there is Varnish in the line it will end up being trapped in the Fuel Strainer at the end of the Pickup tube in the Tank. I do agree that is the best way to start, after removing the line from the Tank
AND Pump then blow air through it. Re-attch the line to the Tank then blow into the tank (from the Pump side of the line) to see if the "Fuel Sock" (strainer in tank) is clogged!
PLEASE dont take this as me trying to discredit your idea bob55.
Another thing to check FlyerPinto, is the line clogged from the Pump to the Carb? It's a lot easier to get to then climbing under the car, start at the easy point then working your way back.
turbowagonman
Good point, turbowagonman! Could be the sock itself is all gunked up, but like you said, start with the simple stuff first.
Bob
I'm heading out tonight to work on the Bobcat and see what I can do. I'll check the lines from the fuel pump first and if I can't get anything done there then I'll have to try something you folks suggested with the tank. It may take me a few days to get through these different approaches as I'm working a lot lately, but as soon as I have some news I'll be back. Thanks guys.
Curious if you ever fixed your problem. I installed a new pump on my 78 Sedan last week and it's already shot. I tested the fuel pump pressure and I'm only getting 1.5 PSI. I'm very irritated as it's my only car. For now I'm walking to work....
Not repaired as of yet. But part of the issue is a major addition to the house that has my cars out of the garage and in the yard, a look the neighbors haven't said anything about but can't be terribly pleased about either. The nice thing is my garage now actually has a concrete floor and the fleet is tucked safely inside. Once electric is restored I'll be able to get back to work on the car. Right now it's just a little difficult. Have you come up with any solutions to your problem yet?
Quote from: dave1987 on August 13, 2007, 03:50:43 AM
Curious if you ever fixed your problem. I installed a new pump on my 78 Sedan last week and it's already shot. I tested the fuel pump pressure and I'm only getting 1.5 PSI. I'm very irritated as it's my only car. For now I'm walking to work....
Try removing the gas cap. Also, you might want to pull the sender out of the tank, the pick-up could be clogged.
Bill
I've got the fleet inside and I'm still waiting on electricity to make life a little easier. I did finally get the doors fixed on the Cruising Wagon (the stud the doors latch onto had lost its plastic seal so I bought new ones to replace them. Then the plate that held the thing fell inside the body cavity...) and I'm lining up some other goodies as well. I'll keep you all posted. Incidentally, I bought new software for my computer so I can finally upload some pictures this week.
Great, just great. My fuel pump has gone out again! I just got done doing a tune up and oil change too. I'm here at my parents and I was about to leave but the car wouldn't start!
Not even a year old and this pump is dead.
How hard is it to install an electric pump with a cut-off switch???
That's odd that you keep going through fuel pumps like that. What is it doing to make you think it's another bad pump? Not doubting you, just trying to help.
Because all of the pumps that I have gone though have been remanufactured ones since my warrenty doesn't cover anything else. A free pump is a free pump at this point in time!
I will be converting to an electric pump soon though, once I get all of the parts together. Still need a fuel pressure regulator and an inertia switch.
It could be over revving too though.