Finally back on my turbo pinto project after 3 years of house renovations!
So I got a hydraulic clutch conversion kit from autoworks international that is meant for a 65-66 Mustang with the hopes that I could adapt it to the Pinto (I'm putting an '86 SVO motor and trans in). Today I worked out the trans crossmember, and then attacked the firewall. Then I did the old "wait a sec, my pedal is going to pull this rod, but it's already fully extended by the spring." Uh huh, I know.
So I did some digging and did find one company that makes a pull-type clutch master, but I also read some posts about guys that reversed the cylinder and put it under the dash. One in particular mentioned putting up some pictures, but I don't know if that ever happened or where to find them.
If anyone has done this, you mind putting down some details of what you did that worked? Some pictures would be a great help too -- thanks!
If you ae using the SVO engine and tranny... why hydro clutch? those had cable pull clutches.
Jim
I was trying to avoid having to notch the crossmember for the clutch cable clearance, that's why I originally bought the kit to change over. I also didn't like that crazy linkage they've got on the bell to convert what could be rear-pull to forward pull. Also heard about those little "dog-bone" cable segments being problematic, and since I have a heavier clutch in there I wanted something bullet-proof.
You can get a straight pull bellhousing and not have to notch the crossmember.
77turbopinto has info posted here about that.
*EDIT*
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=57&topic=4106.0
Jim
I'll try to get pics of mine posted. Be careful, I bought the pull type and it was a slave not a master.
CR, thanks... pictures are always welcomed. Here's the link to the "pull-type" master I found
http://www.apracing.com/car/cylinder/data.asp?code=CP6465
I haven't had any luck getting through to the N. American distributer yet, but if I do I'll post on my findings. I suspect that this is an expensive proposition because AP's stuff seems to be geared more to the high-end racers.
I'll probably drop my steering column and/or pull the instrument cluster to see what sort of room I've got to work with. Seems like you guys that used push-type master cylinders that have the integral reservoir had to get very creative. I may be in luck since the master that came in my kit is a variant of the CNC stainless remote reservoir version (http://www.cncbrakes.com/mc.asp?grp=mc&subgrp=swo&series=711&subseries=), which would allow me to keep the reservoir conveniently located in the engine compartment and avoid the filling issues that some of you talked about. I'm determined to get this to work... I don't think my wife will let me hear the end of it if it turns out that I bought yet another kit that didn't fit (three years ago I spent a lot of $$ on a stainless tubular turbo manifold that I couldn't use because the compressor housing of the turbo I've got (Garrett GT30R) interferes with it, and shimming it out would require cutting up the inner fender that I already had done a lot of body work to).
Pull type master runs about $365; I'll be making the push type one I have fit.
Got the master cylinder for the clutch to fit, reversed, under the dash. Remote mounted the reservoir on the fire wall and all it took was a custom bracket I fabricated and welded onto the pedal support bracket. I'll post pictures and write a tech article if anyone is interested. Damn it is smooooth!
I want to perform the same operation. would u be able to talk me through this? -Chris