Someone helped ventilate my 80 Pinto by breaking out the driver's side glass :wow:. Thanks to a kind individual I have a new one and am attempting to install it. I noticed there are 2 circular things that attach the glass to the metal bar that raises and lowers the glass but I'm not sure how to remove them from the bar without breaking them and then reinstall. By touch, it seems like there is a cotter pin or something on one side of the round pieces but I'm not sure. Anyone done this and have a good way to install the glass? Thanks :peace:
If they are like th 77/78 like I think they are, you need to drill the rivets out of those two pins. To re-intall the glass you use bolts with lock nuts.
Bill
Gearhead440,
Be exceptionally carefull.
High_Horse
77turbo & High_Horse,
Thank you both for the advice :iloveu:. I'll see what I can do about drilling and using appropriate reinstallation hardware and I'll make sure to wear some type of glove when I perform the work. I already have to clean the glass out of the interior and inner door well so I dont need more glass in my face. The worst part is that the body and interior are in very good shape, aside from some exterior patina, and I'm finally ready to begin some work in earnest. I have new front seats from a Conquest (Pinto seats are fine, I just like the other ones) and the only thing that needs any attention is the carpet. Since you have both been there, can the carpet be cleaned in some fashion or is replacement the way to go? Considering it is 27 years old it may not survive the removal process, never mind the cleaning. Thanks again :D
GearHead 440,
It really depends if the carpet has been garaged or exposed to allot of direct sunlight. Your not going to know unless you try to move it. You can get a new one though, mine fits nice. Hey!!! Did you say Conquest seats?? Are they bolted in?How do they fit?? GearHead did you ever post any pics of your car??
High_Horse
Don't forget to use the plastic washers when you re-intall the glass.
If your carpet has no holes, you can dye it back to it's original color (or close to it anyway) with vinyl dye. Use light applications and brush the carpet betweeen coats.
Bill
High Horse,
Have not done a trial fit of the seats yet but they do bolt through the floor. They are leather, "wrap around" seats that are much more positionable than the original seats. I also have some 73 seats for the real 70's look and feel but with my daily driver application I think I'll stick with the Conquest seats. I have a black interior, black carpet, headliner, dash, seats, door panels, etc. I took really good care of it "back in the day" and it is still in exceptional shape. I've had it out of the weather and sunlight since 2000 but it is now outside due to other circumstances but it does provide motivation. No current project pics yet but I do have a few from 20 years ago :lol:. I'll either have to borrow a digital or take money from the project fund to purchase one. I can always take regular pics and scan them but I'm not sure of the quality - will see soon. The rear only needs brakes and gear oil and it is ready to install. Gas tank is waiting for a warm day for reinstall as well. 302 engine is rebuilt and is awaiting a good cam and heads to return from machine shop. The only items I dont currently have in my possession are front end rebuild kit and shocks. Everything else is just waiting to be installed and connected. I'll have to play the exhaust routing and muffler placement by ear, using your pics as reference, when that time comes.
Turbo,
Thanks for the reminder about the plastic washers, bolts and locking nuts. I'll be removing the carpet next weekend, 3/10/07, and will know at that time. I took good care of it along the way and, as far as I know, there is only 1 hole in all of it on the passenger's side at where the kick panel meets the door frame. I always used rubber floor mats front and rear so feet never touched the carpet for all the 20 years I've had it. I'm hoping to slide a small piece of black carpet under this and call it good. I also have heat padding / sound dampener for the fire wall / select places under the carpet. One thing Ive seen used is roofing shingles on the floor board under the carpet to act as heat shield and sound deadener - still contemplating this one. Once I get the carpet out and cleaned and if it survives, I'll look for some fabric dye. The interior will require the least amount of work for the entire project since it is all there and in very good shape. I am changing out the speedometer and guages, though, so some wiring will be requied. Body work is also at a minimum but I will need a fresh coat of paint.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement! :yinyan:
Well, the carpet was shot so I ripped it out - new carpet is now mandatory. Floor pans are solid and original color. Mounting brackets for Conquest seats arent even close so that will necessitate drilling new hole and using grade 8 bolts to retain them. High Horse, thank you for the warning. I was doing well until I had to use a chisel. I was lucky and didnt cut my thumb on the door hole / window access opening as badly as I first thought. I was worried until I cleaned it up. No feeling on one side of it yet but hopefully it will heal with not further complications and I am current on my tetnus shot. Thanks to all and remember to always wear your mechanics gloves.
GearHead440,
Well I am glad you did not hurt yourself to bad. Some of those stampings are just as sharp as a razor. I bought my carpet from stockinteriors.com 130 shipped. It seems to fit ok. CookieBoy had a question about how it fit around the trans tunnel and I have to admit that mine could have been tighter but I don't know what he did or is doing about it. I probably could have threw mine in the pool for awhile and induced shrinkage but hindsight is always 20/20. Sounds like your having a good time. I always enjoy the small talk subject (What did you do yesterday?). And the answer.....Working on my Pinto....AAAHHHHH....HHHHAAAAAAAA!!!!!! Never had anyone say....Whats a Pinto. Keep it up GearHead440....Looking forward to riding with ya.
Don't use roof shingles....They don't breath....Use carpet padding with spray adheisive like I did in my picture....you can spray as you go and it removes easy if you want to later.
High_Horse
High_Horse,
Thanks for the info on the carpet and words of encouragement. I have spray adhesive and also have some heat reflective matting I picked up a few years ago that I intend to place at the fire wall and floor pans where the exhaust will be routed. It is a good 1/4" thick so that may help my carpet take up some "slack" if need be. Also, I cleaned up the oil pan I fabbed a many years ago and it looks good. Are you or do you know anyone using a windage tray? I have one for a 302 Boss and intend on using it with the appropriate studs as long as there is no interference with the pan. It is about time to start taking some pics of "progress" as it evolves. Thanks and I'll keep you informed.
GH
GearHead440,
With all due respect I don't suggest anything with a moisture inpenetrable Layer. You will only breed rust. I have some heat tape that has been working way better then expected to cover your pipes with that I would be happy to send you. Anyway, I am curious to see your progress so please keep us abreast of your progress.
High_Horse
High_Horse,
Thanks for yor patience. Due to my day job, I tend to over-engineer things a bit and will follow your advice. If I would just have looked at your interior thread, I would have had my questions answered. I, too, have used the heat roll around exhaust pipes for other projects and have some laying around (just like everything else) so I will take your advice. Additionally, I will follow in your footsteps with the Rust Arrestor Extend, and Alex Plus from DAPP. Since your carpet came with the padding, I'll just order it with the padding. My interior will require nothing like the makeover that yours did but, man, you work wonders. Thanks again!
GH
Ok, so after nearly cutting off my left thumb removing the plastic washers that hold the glass to the lift bracket, I lost one of them - figures. So I made one out of 1/8" thick pieces of wood cut to a 2" diameter. The hole in the glass nicely accepts a 1/2" dowel rod so I drilled a hole in the center of the dowel rod, sawed it off to about 3/8" long and ran a screw through the center of every thing. This actually works very well. Whenever I re-assembled it all yesterday, I used the plastic pieces in the bracket hole located about the centerline of the door and the wooden washer in the bracket hole closest to the door latch. The window moves up and down in the front track with no binding. After a liberal coat of white grease, everything slides up and down well but now, the middle part of the window does not go all of the way up but the back part of the glass goes up nicely. I can run my thumbnail all the way across the top in the middle of the window. The original glass went all the way up with no problems. Do I need to go back in, remove the plastic and put wooden pieces in to correct for the height difference? Also, is there a place that makes the rubber pieces that go at the top of the door / window interface? I need to replace this also, and maybe this will help. Man, I really wish they wouldnt have broken out my window - what a PITA >:(!
Any moisture that gets into the door will effect the wood.
There are adjustments that you can make to the window to get it to close correctly. I normally put the window as far up as it will go, duct tape it so it can't fall, then loosen the adjusters, put the window in the full closed position, and tighten the fasteners.
BTW: White grease will wash out over time. The original stuff will out survive roaches.
Bill
Thanks for the replys, Bill! Since you are batting 1,000 on my questions, got any good lottery number picks?
Take all the money that you would have wasted on tickets and put it toward a house.
Bill
:lol: My standard response is: "I know that I won't win anyway so why play?" Your odds are better at getting struck by lightning than winning a state or "powerball" lottery.
My favorite: You can't loose if you don't play.
Bill
I removed the wooden washers and went to Lowe's for some real pieces. A nylon spacer, 1/2" diameter by 1/4" thick with a hole drilled in the middle works well. I also picked up some rubber "washers" and a few stainless steel 1 1/2" washers with the correct size screws and nuts. This allowed me to sandwich the glass between the 2 rubber washers with the nylon spacer in the window glass hole, place the 2 metal washers on the outside and slide the screw through and double nut it. Took some maneuvering and colorful metaphors since the "access" holes are just about the size of my hands but it all tightened down. I pushed the window to the top and attempted tightening but I think the window "slider arm thing" has just enough slop to prevent it for fully raising the window in the middle :(. The back part is fine, though. "Curiouser and curiouser", said Alice. :P