OK now that I have your attention.. How much can I shave from a '74 2300 head safely. Mind you, I don't want to create an "interference" motor. I'd like to have a few thousandths cushion in case the T-belt breaks @ high RPM. I'm looking to increase my HP from the dismal stock 88 to 130-140. I'm all about a N/A motor, turbos require extra maintenance. If I'm not gonna boost it, then I need to put the squeeze to it another way.
Thanks for your help.
more than 30 thou will cause interference if the t belt breaks.but you can safely take 60 thou off,It will net you one full point of compression.
Ok I'm guessing that .030 is safe & .060 is not, Being dyslexic I read that twice to make sure I didn't get it backwards LOL
That said, .030 will get me from 7.5:1 to 8.5:1 CR right?
Add in a holley 390 carb, Ranger roller cam, and header & I SHOULD get my magic 130-140 hp right?
Correct,The 74 2.3 should have 9:1 static take off 60 thou you got 10:1
Many thanks earthquake!... now to get off my keyster & get to work on it!
Remember that shaving the head or decking the block on these motors retards the cam timing.If you cut it much you may need an adjustable cam pulley to get the cam timing correct.The Ranger roller cam won't give you any more HP.I don't think the mods you listed will give you the 130-140 HP you desire.Just my two cents.
How much further do I need to go for 130hp?
I forgot to mention that I was going to get a veriner cam pulley.
My main goal for this project is to do sensible mods to up the HP & handling to take on the Honduh's the kids drive. All the while keeping it's daily driver usability, & reliability. Oh & I'm NOT gonna be doing any drag racing.
I think that with a decent intake,carb,cam,adjustable pulley,good ignition and header you have a good start,but head work is going to make the biggest difference.The 2.3 head needs attention.Cutting the head to get the compression uo to around 10:1 and 92 octane will help tremendously,but it really needs porting,especially on the exhaust side and in the bowls.Just mild porting in the bowls with a little radiusing and blending and a set of 1.89/1.59 valves and a good set of springs will give you the most HP for the money.I think this combo will give you the numbers you want and should let you run with the NA ricers.It's not going to be a world beater and you won't be able to run with the turbo cars,but it will definately make you respectable.Hope this helps.
Thanks Turbo Toy. I guess I'll be looking for a head to work on. I know a guy who's built the SNOT out of a Ranger 2.3 so I suppose I'll be handing it over to him for a port/polish job. I'l have him gasket match the head & I'll do the intake the same way.
I agree with turbo toy, the 2.3 heads do not flow very well and need to be opened up a bit. Always thought it odd that the 2.0's flow better. Just remember when porting, the exhaust side can be mirror smooth, but keep the intake side a bit rough to aid air/fuel atomization. It doesn't hurt to cc the chambers after porting to make sure they are the same.
You'll need a fairly healthy cam to get your NA hp numbers as well. One of my favorite 2.3 street cams was a Crower 270-H Compu-Pro. It had a nice loping idle and good midrange torque. I doubt they make it any more. I've attached the specs for those interested. There are undoubtedly similar cams available.
What extra maintenance? Yea, the install is a bit of a pain, but if you leave it stock (150ish HP, non-I/C) is is very durable.
130-140 from a N/A (carb-ed) 2.3 will cost more than a turbo swap and won't be all that street happy.
Just my $.02
Bill
Weren't the Ranger 2.3's 140hp? I know they were EFI & the dual plug heads. I'd think it's achievable with a carb & still be streetable. I'm only after 1hp/cu-in. I'm after an old school torque monster. Right now I know I make most of my torque below 3k rpm. With the auto trans, I can hold it on the brake @ 2500. That translates into max power out of the corners.
I'm looking to have a "canyon carver" I've ordered a set of Wilwood slotted front brake discs & am working on an 8.8" rear end swap. That way I can get a bolt on rear disc conversion. I have, waiting in the wings, a wagon rear sway bar & already have Koni adjustable shocks on the car. Once I get the chassis fully sorted, I'll be looking @ engine mods. I don't need all that "go" without a TON of "whoa".
My "racetrack" of choice is a road called "The Tail Of The Dragon" US HWY 129 through Deal's Gap NC. 318 turns in 11 mi. To give you some idea of just how crooked this road is, it covers only 5.5 miles of straight line distance, with 11 miles of road. Those of you who are motorcyclists may have heard of it.
"Tail of the Dragon"? I have a few videos I downloaded of a guy driving a later model fox Mustang 2.3t down that road. Sure is fun to watch. That wouldn't happen to be you would it?
Nope, not me. :text_yb_warning: Videos will get you arrested at the speeds I travel on that road! :text_yb_warning:
I have fun there & a lot of stock 4wheelers have trouble keeping up with me, but I wanna run with the modded Miatas! Dang those little buggers are nimble!
Even with what I consider crazy speeds I get passed by sportbikes (aka crotch rockets) I know i don't have a prayer of holding them off, but I'd just as soon not hold them up!
Quote from: crazyhorse on February 12, 2007, 05:08:55 PM
...I wanna run with the modded Miatas! Dang those little buggers are nimble...
Get a modded Miata.
Bill
I really like "Buck Creek Gap", it's Hwy 80 between Marion NC. and the park way. If you want to run with the modded Miata's you need a turbo. It's really fairly simple and I promise you, you will love it. As stated earlier, you can do a turbo setup a lot cheaper than you can do the NA mods and have twice the HP. Maint. is next to zilch as long as you keep the boost reasonable.
CAN ANY BODY TELL ME HOW HARD IT WOULD BE TO INSTALL AN INNER COOLER ON A 2.3 THAT IS NOT INTER COOLED, AND WHAT PARTS I WOULD NEED
Quote from: JELLO on February 18, 2007, 11:31:22 AM
CAN ANY BODY TELL ME HOW HARD IT WOULD BE TO INSTALL AN INNER COOLER ON A 2.3 THAT IS NOT INTER COOLED, AND WHAT PARTS I WOULD NEED
A 2.3 or a 2.3T?
Don't waste you time unless your engine has a turbo. A turbo compresses air, when it does it makes the air hot, the I/C will cool it back down. A N/A (non-turbo) engine does not heat the air, so there is no need or benefit for an I/C.
If your car has a turbo the best bet is for a front mount (in front of the radiator) and just fabricate exhaust pipes and brackets as needed, As far as I know there are no "bolt-in" kits for this.
Bill