I am still having a problem with the coil arcking at the + & - terminals and the coil wire. I have changed the wires to the 8.8mm and put on a accel coil. I tried the porclein resistor and it won't start with it.
When I did the original swap to the DSII the brn/pink wire was connected to a red ?resistor wire on the female side of the plug and came out on the male side as just the brn/pink ans was connected to the + on the old tfi coil, because the wires was bad on the female side I cut the red & brn/pink wire before i realised the red wire was a resistor wire.
I checked the voltage at the + side and it is 13volts running and the - side is 5/6. All the wires are hooked up correctly and initial timing set at 12.
I took it to a shop and they are not sure but I think they just don't want to work on it last time for them.
Before I start again, I was told the + wire to the coil has to be a hot wire in the run & start mode but not accessary?
Desperate need of help any ideas appreciated, really need this by Monday. Thanks again
You tried a differant coil and coil wire and its still arcing??????? :what: I dont get that since I would have said the coil is cracked at the neck where the wire goes in it. I dont have a clue on that but your right about the coil + being hot on run and start but NOT accessary. Thats just for the radio and things like that. Wished I could be more help.
Electricity uses the shortest path to ground, look in your distributer and check everything. your problem probably lies there. If the rotor is lined up at the time of fire and all is in good working condition, it will fire the plugs the easiest (shortest to ground).
??? When I put the dizzy in I lined it like the book said, so now I am wondering if I got it right, I put the engine toTDC then set the initial timing to 10-12 with the rotor pointing at #1 and dropped it in, then it says you have to line the vains up on the inner coil by rotoing the dizzy, when I did this it moves the rotor off the #1 tower. Is this right or is this where I oopsed at. It does run however. I haven't done a dura spark in 15yrs so things are still foggy? :swirl:
Not having the rotor lined up properly will create a high voltage open circuit which would create the arcing from the coil high voltage terminal to the +/- terminals. You did not mention lining up the cam when setting TDC and you may have installed the distributor 180 degrees out. I do not have the book on this distributor but the the following should work.
Place the engine on TDC and install the distributor with rotor aimed approximately at #1 after being inserted. If you get the arcing again, pull the distributor and rotate the rotor 180 degrees and reinstall. If the cam cover is off or is easily remove, you can avoid the trial and error by lining up the cam sprocket dot to the stationary pointer when setting the engine to TDC. This should get it close enough to run. If the distributor can not be rotated far enough to set the correct timing, pull the distributor and move it one gear tooth and reinstall.
This sounds crazy, but same situation happened to me. the condencer wire wire was shorting on the inside of the bottom of distributor plate. I moved the condencer wire on the inside of the distruiutor a little with my fingers and it started right up. Hope this helps. evidently the wire was shorting on the btm plate.