Are ther any real differences in the blocks or heads between regular and turbo 2.3 engines?
Hey Doug,
Use the turbo block when possible.
HIGH Nickel content.
I have taken the T-2.3 from breakers yards with 130,xxx + miles and they have ZERO wear on the cylinders.
From Pintony
Starting with a turbo engine is a easier as Pintony says. Below are some more differences.
The mid 80's turbo blocks had a oil return boss cast in to the side of the block. The non-turbo mid 80's block also had this boss cast in to the block, but it was not drilled. The Pinto blocks do not have this boss, but a oil return can be added to the pan.
Starting in about 1985, the blocks started to use a one piece rear main seal with no oil slinger on the crank (this is both turbo & NA). This is the same one piece seal as used by the 5.0 V8. The Pinto blocks use a two piece rear main seal with a slinger ring on the crank.
The turbo short blocks received forged pistons while the Pinto got cast.
The turbo heads had better exhaust valves, I believe it was inconel.
The Pinto heads had oval intake ports while the mid 80's had D shaped ports (both turbo & NA). From what I have read, the turbo head had a more open combustion chamber kind of D shape as opposed to heart shape. Both of the junk yard turbo engines I got had non-original heads. I have read that the turbo heads tend to crack near the exhaust seat (probably due to severe usage).
Hope this helps some.
Just get a turbo engine, running ones are fairly cheap.
Ditto on what Jerry and Tony said.
Most of the turbos crack the head, but sometimes they are still very usable.
Yes, you "can" put the turbo oil return in the pan, BUT if it is too low you might have a problem with it not draining fast enough. Any restrictions in the return can cause the oil to blow past the seals in the turbo. The best thing to do is put it in the block.
Bill
Thanks for the advice!
Right now, I'm trying to figure out what to do after being a bit cheated on a Merkur donor car that I bought last summer and finally getting to as a winter project. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120021077273 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120021077273) It seems like most of the engine parts are either missing or damaged, which really negates the propose of a donor car. Plus I have a Pinto parts car with a 2.3 off to the side.
For the damaged pieces. The head has sloppy valve guides, a burnt seat, and a big nick in one of the combustion cambers. The pistons have valve dents. The turbo is seized. The deck of the block looks like it has been dented twice with a blunt instrument, one place where the fire ring goes. Will have a mechanic friend look at it next Wednesday to see what can be salvaged from this project.
As for the missing pieces, I've gotten a false promise or two that I would be sent them. These people rarely answer their phone or email. Last time, I did get someone on the phone they hung up. Grrrrrr! >:(
FYI, I read an article regarding the turbo blocks. The article said the factory determined the turbo blocks vs. N/A blocks by weight. The heavy blocks went to the Turbos. As far as using a non turbo block, I have an opinion. My 2.5 turbo engine uses a 94 ranger N/A block. It has held up to over 350 HP countless dyno pulls and quite a few 1/4 mile runs with " 0" failures.
Just my 2c
I think the block that brad has uses a different crank too???
Smaller jouirnals I think???
From Pintony
Quote from: Pintony on December 29, 2006, 04:08:19 PM
I think the block that brad has uses a different crank too???
Smaller jouirnals I think???
From Pintony
Yes, it has the small journals.