My 76 w/2.3 will not run at the right temperature, especially in the winter time, im lucky if it runs 160. However sitting for very long will raise the temperture to about 230 degrees which quickly drops back down to 160 when im moving. Revving the engine to 2000 rpm or so will cool it down mostly, too. The car has a brand new radiator, new radiator hoses, a new water pump, and has had many new thermostats in attempt to get it to run the right temp. Ive been fighting this for years but have continued to drive it this way. Usually in the summer it'll run 190 and the heater will work ok but...who the hell needs that? lol. It also acts as tho there is little coolant flowing thru the heater core, because when it does get up to the temp that it runs, the heater will only blow warm air for a minute or two then it will progressivly blow cooler air until its ice cold again but if i leave it on low it will blow warm air constantly but its never as hot as it is in my wagon with is identicly set up. Neither car has ac, neither is automatic. The new radiator in the 76 has a core in it which is a few inches wider than the original, it replaces some of that one side on a factory radiator that is just a big metal plate, so it still all bolts up like the factory one did. Also, since the car doesnt get up to the right temp, it coughs once in a while just once when i hit the throttle in a certain spot. Never does that in the summer (never seen it do it before period, except when i try to drive it when its not been warmed up, and i touch the gas too far then it will cough alot). I was reading somewhere that there was a kit to install for the heater that improves its heating capability by having coolant go thru the heater core first and then thru the intake instead of the other way around. Is is possible i need to reverse my connections? Any help on this would be appreciated guys. Thank you ahead of time!
James
it sounds like you have air in your cooling system. you can try to take it to a shop that has a coolant flush machine. if there is air in there that will get it out. also check the cap and your resovior.
A low coolant level will act like that. Change to a brand name 195 degree thermostat. Try Stant. Also make sure to have a 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix.
During your warm up cycle it is common for the temperature to rise above the thermostat rating on your gauge because the your gauge sensor is probably not in the same location as the thermostat. The thermostat will only open when that region of the engine reaches the designated temperature.
When the thermostat finally does open the temperature will usually cycle below the thermostat temperature. It will go through these up & down cycles for a while until everything gets stabilized.
To see you true operating engine operating temperature you need to load the motor and drive continuously. Example, a 30 minute freeway drive.
Quote from: twinturbor on December 27, 2006, 11:13:35 AM
it sounds like you have air in your cooling system. you can try to take it to a shop that has a coolant flush machine. if there is air in there that will get it out. also check the cap and your resovior.
Caps new, has no reservoir. Coolant level is ok, i dont know how to tell if there is air in the system tho i have done a flush on it after installing all these parts. I just used one of those preston flush and fill kits from walmart that tee's into the heater hose and puts a fitting in there to connect to a garden hose.
Quote from: Starliner on December 27, 2006, 11:30:50 AM
A low coolant level will act like that. Change to a brand name 195 degree thermostat. Try Stant. Also make sure to have a 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix.
During your warm up cycle it is common for the temperature to rise above the thermostat rating on your gauge because the your gauge sensor is probably not in the same location as the thermostat. The thermostat will only open when that region of the engine reaches the designated temperature.
When the thermostat finally does open the temperature will usually cycle below the thermostat temperature. It will go through these up & down cycles for a while until everything gets stabilized.
To see you true operating engine operating temperature you need to load the motor and drive continuously. Example, a 30 minute freeway drive.
Coolant level is ok, am using oreilly brand antifreeze which the guys behind the counter swear is prestone antifreeze bottled in their bottles instead of prestons bottles. Even on continuous trips the temperature will stay 160 or less in cold weather and 190 or so when its warm out (by warm i mean 60+ degress) The thermostat im using is a murray brand, seems to be ok in the other pinto. I think i put one in it. Im not sure where to get a stant t-stat at. But i will look for one. Thanks for the tips!
James
Years ago I had problems getting heat out of my 67 Mustang. I think it was because my grandpa put some radiator stop leak stuff in to stop a radiator leak. It never plugged the leak but it plugged up my heater core ::) No ammount of flushing would unclog it. I froze for two winters before I replaced the heater core. The car has been nice as toasty since ;D You may want to look into replacing the heater core if you are not getting ample heat out of it.
It also sound to me like you have air in your cooling system.
Good luck
PintoGuy76, There is something here that makes no sense. Fact...If you run a thermostat your engine heats to that temp. I would suggest that you disconnect your heater core hoses and shoot some air though it...that should tell you if it is plugged. Also you said you have a bigger radiator...that does not matter unless your bucking 40 below headwinds. Thermostats dont just bang open and then closed....they work gradually till the required temp is maintained. Air could be a possibility but arnt you filling it...like when i work on my cooling system I fill it then I check it the next day..and so on till it maintains level. You can also experiment by putting some peices of cardboard it front of the radiator to induce different ambient environments.
High_Horse