My lil 74 wagon (2.3) sheared the pin in the gear on the distributor again. This one lasted 2 months, i was on my way home from a trip out of town and got almost home when it broke down. Boy was i lucky. 45 minutes earlier and id have been stuck out in BFE. This car didnt run when i bought it, and i discovered it was due to that pin that had sheared. I was wondering if it would do it again, because in my mind i tend to think it shouldnt have ever sheared that pin to begin with. However, my question was answered. December 8th is when it broke down, and october 4th is when i bought the new distributor and installed it... thats 2 months and 3 days. The parts store will have to order another distributor should this happen again. I dont know what kind of pin it takes to replace it with or where to get it, so i just had them warrantee the distributor. Thats why i replaced the whole distributor to begin with anyways. But, now im at a loss because i dont know what would cause this thing to shear the pin again. The only thing i can think of is maybe something the oil pump is doing. I cant check the oil pump to see if it spins freely because the drive shaft for the oil pump is in the shape of a star and is way down in there so theres no way to get ahold of it with anything to spin it. Is there anything else anyone can think of that would cause that pin to shear? im at a loss. ;(
CAUSE??
Revving the engine when cold could do it.
Think about the thickest goo you ever tried to pour...
NOW think about it frozen!!! ;D
If you are warm where you are?
Then it is mostlikely due to worn oilpump.
Dis-Assemble, Replace, Re-Assemble
From Pintony
Tony i am about 200 miles southwest of you... temp HAS been down to the single digits latly but i havnt been driving it when it was that cold. Ive been driving my 76 instead. I have to rev them both to about 3k and hold it until they warm up or they will keep stalling and just wont go anywhere. (chokes removed on the 76 and the 74 has a pin missing that holds the choke rod on the butterly). I never have any problems with the 76 so i dont think its the oil being too cold, but i am really starting to question the oil pump itself. I guess this spring i should pull the engine and start working on some stuff. It needs a clutch too, and will get a pressure plate and throw out bearing at the same time. The clutch pedal is very stiff, i hope its the pressure plate causing that and not something else. The person who had this car before me apparently drove it until it was a POS and then pawned it off on me for too much money. But i wanted it bad! I reall should just stop putting money into it, and drive my 76, and save the money i would be spending on the 74s engine for my turbo 2.3 engine instead. Ive got the wiring harness and throttle cable for it already, just need the vam, ecu, engine, and fuel pump. :-D
If it is shearing these pins, it is the pump. If it has been rebuilt, and has a HV pump which these motore don't need, it can also cause this. Try using the thinest oil you can in those cold temps, it will help. You can buy the pins at most parts stores, they are just a roll pin that is easily driven out. On my race motors, I substitute the pin with a nail, yes a nail. I have had to do this on my 78 V6 which has went through 2 pins, and this motor has almost no pressure. The gear will only install one way. the hole is offset drilled, so be sure it is lined up when installing.
Thank you for the info. The engine has not been rebuilt but i do agree it sounds like it is the pump so i guess come spring it;ll get replaced. Ill look for the roll pins, thats what i figured they used but i wasnt sure. I was considering using a nail or something like that myself because i know it wouldnt be able to shear that. The thin oil is a good idea, i cant remember what i put in it but i think it was 10w30. Lowest i know of that i can go is 5w30.
I had a 460 V8 jet boat that would do the same thing when I ran 20W-50 conventional oil. The engine ran too cool which kept the oil too thick. And you know I had my foot in it! My cure was two part, I used Mobil 1 sysnthetic oil and added a restrictor in my thermostat location to get the engine temperature where it should be. (jet boats had no thermostats!).
I would suggest the following.
1) Run 15W-50 Mobil 1 oil for your climate. It flows good at all temperatures. It also makes the cam live. Older camshafts don't thrive on the thin oils.
2) Change your thermostat. At least a 180 degree. My preference is 195 in the winter and 180 in the summer.
3) Keep your driving speed and engine RPMs low until the engine reaches operating temperature. Then run it like you stole it, no problem!
Hello pintoguy76,
I just listed an NOS 2.3 Pinto dist. on ebay.
Along with a cam and set of +.040 pistons
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300061820773&rd=1&rd=1
From Pintony
Well ive always run the thick stuff in my other pinto (2.3 also) when it was cold and still revved it no more or less than i rev this one. I dont remember what oil i put in it this time, on either one. I dont think it was 20-50 on either one tho. I quit using that when i fixed the oil leak. The thick stuff ran out slower. lol. i think i put in 10-40 this time but im not sure. Tony, it has a new distributor in it already. 2nd new one, now.
Hey PintoGuy 76,
How about that thermostat? If it is always running cold the oil pump is working hard all the time, not just during warm up.
Try the 15W-50 Mobil 1 & a 195 degree thermostat and see what happens. I would do that before you change the oil pump. Also change your oil filter with a brand name like Motorcraft or Mobil 1 for good flow and filtration.
You have little to lose, you can justify these items as maintenance.
I know, just my $0.02 cents and your dollars!
Actually the way ive always understood it, and while it sounds a$$ backwards, is that the oil is actually thinner when its cold than it is when its hot. It makes sense because thin oil would make the engine easier to start, and would be easier on everything until the engine is warm, then once the oil warms up it becomes thicker, which would then provide better wear protection because of the extra cusion. Anyways. The car i am having the shearing pin problem is my 74 and the thermostat is working fine on it. Its my 76 im having problems getting the engine to run at normal operating temperature. It would also make sense seeing as i had just got back from an 80 mile highway trip at highway speeds when it broke and the oil i was running was 10w40 (40wt warm) which would mean the oil pump was pumping thick oil all the time at high speeds. I think using a lighter oil would buy me some time (5w30) but in the end its just a bandaid on the problem. Also the oil i was running was high milage oil, maybe that makes the oil thicker or soemthing i dunno. Its not been very long since i changed the oil and it is leaking some and i *think* burning some too so it gets some fresh oil here and there. I may go back to regular oil in 5-30 weight and just shift earlier and slow down some on the highway if i take it on the highway at all, until spring. Then i will either fix it, or my prefrence, convert it to a 2.3 Turbo. Im not kiddin when i say this lil wagon wont get out of its own damn way. LOL. Its supposed to have 10hp more than my 76 according to chiltons and even tho 74 is a wagon and the 76 is a sedan, i think the wagon may be geared lower so it should get up n go better id think. Anyways. it doesnt but id rather have a 2.3 turbo anyways and the more money i spend on this stock engine, the less i have to buy the rest of the stuff i need for my engine conversion.
Hey pintoguy 76
There are a lot of good suggestions from all the guys, I think the most valid one is not to rev the engine until
you warm the oil. The oil pressure can spike to over 120 psi at the pump, this can & will shear the rollpin as
well you know. Esslingner recommends replacing the rollpin with a #10 allen cap screw modified in following
way. Get a #10 [3/16"] x 1 1/4' cap screw & grind the head of it down so it looks like a nail head, then cut it
a little longer than the diameter of the shank on the gear, around .800 long. line up & drive out your broken
roll pin & drill out the hole in the gear & shaft at the same time. I use a # 13 drill & file the shank of the pin
for an interference fit, but you can use a 3/16'" drill if you have to. After you install the pin in the shaft you
need to center punch or peen the end so it will not come out. I have done this many times & it has worked
very well for me in all applications.
thanks for listening Dick
The choke doesnt work on either of my pintos so i have to hold it to about 2500-3000 rpm or it will not stay running. Even the fast idle of the carb will rev it that fast (2400 i think is the fast idle speed), if it worked. Thank you for the tip, i will try that next time i have a problem. The last one lasted 2 months, and i just put the new one in so hopefully it will last until spring this time since im not driving it as much as i was the last time it broke.
James