Any body got any ideas why i can't get any better than 16.00@ 82 mph. heres what i have 78 pinto 2.3 turbo [87 T bird] c4 3000 stall spooled 8" and 3.55 rear 14" tires i shift at about 6000 rpm it seems like it doesn't want to pull any more past 6000. iam using a 90 F150 inline stock fuel pump Not enough fuel? timing set @ 10 and Boost @ 10 any input would be great
thanks Bruce
Put some premium in the tank and reset your boost to about 17 lbs, (just add power to your bypass switch if you don't have it hooked up) You should also have the computer wired or switched into premium mode. It will come alive! I run the 10 lb mode when running regular and commuting to work...BORING! It almost feels like the turbo is worthless.
My IHI is running at 18lbs, which according to fellow board freaks, is about maximum before inefficiency or explosion.
It might not need to pull past 6K. The Hp/Tq curve is about at 5500 rpm. You may be loosing Hp by shifting at 6K. You might also be spinning the tires.
Are you also running an intercooler? Major gain there also.
I never run past 5500, my times fall off 2 tenths in the 1/8 if I go to 6k
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on October 09, 2006, 10:06:17 PM
I never run past 5500, my times fall off 2 tenths in the 1/8 if I go to 6k
Yep. and BTW the limit of a stock bottom end ( in my case) was 18 lbs at 6k rpm. Also, by my calculations your 16.00 run, considering your 78 weighs in at about 2500 lbs should have ran about 85 mph. That translates into about 120.63 HP.
Im using a Gillis valve and Sunoco 94 if i increase the Boost to 14
what should the timing be set at. And what fuel pumps are you guys using? o yeah iam using a stock t bird ic thanks for your help.
Bruce
7 more lbs of boost @ 10hp per lb... yup puts it at about the factory 190 or so rating.
I'm running the stock in-line 84 Turbocoupe pump which was the same as the f-250 460 engine pump. Your pump is probably just fine, and leave the timing set at 10 degrees.
Thanks for now guys i appreaciate your help i built this car for my wife I run a 82 mustang 302 11.60 @ 112 she said it would be nice to run at least 14.00, s i will try your suggestions this week.
If you have the I/C mounted in the stock location, do you have a scoop or ductwork to it, or just sitting under a hole in the hood? If so, I bet it is not getting enough air into it. If you are looking for power, a FMIC is a must.
What VAM/computer/injectors are you using?
The things most talked about to improve performance it to disconnect the KS and bump the base timing one or two * (spout out). Just listen for detonation.
Where is your pump mounted? If it is too high you might not be getting the all gas you need; they don't like to lift the fuel.
Yes, be sure you BCS is plugged in the harness.
How old is your O2S?
What do you have for an exhaust system?
Do you have any trouble codes?
Did you build the car?
Bill
BTW: Cheap, are you running a stock e-6?
In answering all your questions, I have an 82 mustang scoop, with a 87 thunderbird intercooler, stock 87 VAM, computer and injectors, K&N cone filter, knock sensor is still connected, fuel pump is mounted low on frame rail below gas tank, haven't checked codes yet, and yes i built the car. whats an e-6?I will upload pics to show you as soon as I can. thanks again. Bruce
QuoteBTW: Cheap, are you running a stock e-6?
Stock and unported, when I get around to replacing the IHI with my t-3, I'll open it up.
Quotewhats an e-6?
Exhaust manifold.
Quoteknock sensor is still connected,
Bill's right, unplug the sensor, not sure about the bumping the timing part, mine pings at 10 degrees with premium gas only. Works perfect with with a high octane race fuel 50/50 mixture. I'm going to pull up to a 76 station in a week & a half & filler up with some pump gas race fuel to experiment on a little more timing.
Rather than unplug the knock sensor which actually serves a very important purpose. Try adding a timing retard device that is boost referenced. So that you can retard the timing based on psi in the manifold. I run 18 on low and 22 psi on one of my cars with 2 knock sensors hooked up. I just use a timing controller.
Jake
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on October 10, 2006, 10:57:24 PM
...Bill's right, unplug the sensor...
I only mentioned that there is lots of talk from people that do and get good results (I have not done it). When I first got my Pinto running, my KS was pulling the timing so bad it would not rev beyond 3K, AND I had A code for the KS. I put in a new one and it has been fine. From my research, the more you advance the timing, the SLOWER the spool. For my car (86 T/C T5 and a 3.40 geared rear), I go through 1st and 2nd so fast it has no chance to spool anyway. AAMOF: I think it pulled harder with the 2.79's. Also keep in mind I have never raced my car.
Quote from: Gaslight on October 11, 2006, 07:45:13 AM
Rather than unplug the knock sensor which actually serves a very important purpose...
I do agree with Gas. It is critical that you don't have detonation, but from reading a BUNCH of posts, there seems to be a problem with the stock KS; it reads NON-DETONATION as detonation, and will pull the timing for the wrong reasons. If you decide to run without one, you NEED to listen. There are other things that will help prevent pinging too. Again, from my reseach it seems that Ford was ULTRA conservative with the set-up of these engines to keep from doing too much warranty work. That indicates to me that there is some room to play with things.
Putting any scoop on a hood does not mean that it will get air. Ford did a BUNCH of wind tunnel testing to see HOW MUCH air went through the stock T/C i/c and what the air temps would be. Unless you either get lucky, or do wind tunnel tests you might not get the air you think you will. If I wanted a scoop, I would install one like TurboToy's. I would put MONEY on that one working. A FMIC is a easier way to go to be sure.
Cheap: Can you post a pic of the IHI in your car? I would like to see the room, or lack there of, that the W.G. has to the frame. I plan to put one in my wife's car.
Bill
It's not pretty, I just cut and banged and removed the blower motor until it fit. I'm still in a mockup stage and planed a rebuild and cleanup later...I'm having too much fun right now with it.
Maybe this little guy will fit with no problem.
Hey, that's like a turbo, just smaller!
I have my BOV plumbed the same way at the turbo inlet.
Can you grab a photo of the w/g actuator for inside the w/w? I know I will need to cut some there, just would like to see how it fits. Thanks
Bill
To tight of fit for the camera. Plus, as I said, it's not pretty. I was getting frustrated installing the manifold and turbo and started banging things. I'll fix it, and the battery rought, later. FYI on the mini turbo, that will be on a 16hp v twin Briggs and Stratton over the winter.