Hello,
I am upgrading from my stock one-speaker AM/FM radio to something a little nicer, but I don't have much experience installing/customizing the electronics. The only stereos I've put in are from modern wiring harnesses where you just plug 'n' play. What I've done is cut off those rubber coated power links, and now I've got two blue wires with a red stripe, and one wire that is yellow. My new stereo has a yellow wire (for memory) a red wire (power) and a black ground wire. Do these three link up properly, or do I have to do some major upgrades to my car's wiring harness?
My stereo is a Panasonic cassette deck, with an AUX for my CD or Ipod player ;) I've made all the dash mods and everything fits together, I just can't get the power to link up properly ... I may also need an Amp to power everything the right way.
I've also put in two Panasonic 6" mids in the back, and haven't upgraded that center dash speaker up front yet ...
Any help would be great! Thanks!
The stock wires SHOULD be there for the power, speaker, light, and ground. You will need to find a full time "live" for the memory or run a new one, and run wires for any new speakers.
Is the new raido set up for 4 speakers? If so you can get a replacement "speaker" for the front that has 2 small ones so you can wire it that way.
Bill
The blue wire with the red stripe is for illumination.The yellow wire is the 12 volt ign. lead.You will need to run a 12 volt constant lead to the fuse box or ign. harness.And for the ground wire just screw it somewhere to the metal of the dash.You should use a star washer on the ground lead so it gets a good ground.Bill is right about the speakers.Good luck with your install.
I'm about to install a stereo in my "Pinteaux", too. Where are the better places to install the front speakers? The kick panels look a much too shallow and lacking in resonance. The doors look better for bigger speakers but look like they will require all sorts of cutting. Through the upholstery panels and everything.
What I did was install the 6" speakers in those plastic panels that have the "armrests" for the rear seats. They fit nicely and only required minor cutting -- I think a 4" hole did it. For the front, I was going to hide some tweeters that are 2" or smaller somewhere in or on top of the dash.
Does anyone know a good place to run the memory for my stereo to in the fuse box? Should I just tape off the two blue wires with the red stripes?
There is live all the time at the fusebox.
If you are not running the lights you can tape off those wires, but if I rmember correctly there might be two wires, one for power in, one for out to the lights on the heater control panel.
Bill
That would make sense about going to the heater ... the control panel there doesn't light up with my gauges anymore. My new stereo lights come on with the power ... would connecting the two blue wires w/red stripe together be OK for providing power to the heater control? Or is that a no-no?
I can now get power to my stereo, need to wire the memory to the fusebox and for some reason when I hook my speakers to the new stereo's harness I'm not getting sound. It is supposed to have 4x50 watts of power but I may need to add a 'real' amp.
Haha, I thought this was going to be a two-hour project, and now it's taking a WEEK!
Thanks for the tips (and keep 'em coming!)
Some will hate the thought of this but: Just cut the doors and put your 6 1/2" speakers in them. When you remove the door panels, you will see where there is a factory spot for them. They will not interfere with the windows rolling down. Sometimes, when you buy new equpment from a stereo store, they come installed. If you feel you cannot do it right, then either find a store that does this, or see how much they'll charge you to do it. It is not worth the money not spent to ruin your door or panels!!! I cut mine with a jig saw and it looks great, and they sound so much better in the doors.
Okay, here are a couple of ways that I could go on the doors. I have a couple of new 4"X6" Legacy speakers, but they would be best mounted inside the door and the split level on the bottom of the doors is throwing that off, unless I make a plywood filler or something and Liquid Nail it in there. I also have a pair of big chunky '80s Sanyo 5"x7" speakers that could cut the hole and mount on top across the door metal and upholstery panel.
Since this is a wagon, I am going to put the a pair of 6"x9" rear speakers back in the panels behind the wheel wells.
I put 6 1/2" in my doors with no problems. Just cut away part of the panel, and the door metal and they'll fit. Just about the middle of the speaker is where the bottom of the door panel will be when installed. If you want a photo, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you some. Looks good and sounds better.
i have used the cig lighter as a source of power for certain radio functions. dont smoke so dont need the lighter in the car lol
Do not use the pintos factory power wires.they don't carry enough current to operate many of todays modern decks,you'll blow fuses all the time or the deck will go on and off due to the low current.Run all new wires,you can use the factory switched lead if you use it to energize a relay.The memory lead is not so critical very low current.
Quote from: poisonpinto on August 21, 2006, 10:42:43 AM
What I did was install the 6" speakers in those plastic panels that have the "armrests" for the rear seats. They fit nicely and only required minor cutting -- I think a 4" hole did it. For the front, I was going to hide some tweeters that are 2" or smaller somewhere in or on top of the dash.
Does anyone know a good place to run the memory for my stereo to in the fuse box? Should I just tape off the two blue wires with the red stripes?
For the memory wire you can run off the lighter.With the low drain of this lead you can still use the lighter without problems.
I'm early in my attempt to put four 5x7 speakers in Wee Beastie. Hoping to mimic a factory installed look. Will even hide the speakers under 6x8 factory grills done done. Have a 1/4" and 1/8" plywood fillers under the bottom part of the door speakers. May add a 1/16" fillers later. Have to remove the rear plastic panels to install those right. Will have to scrounge up a impact screwdriver to remove those rusty screws in the floor.
My other two pictures.
BTW, I like the look of those clunky '80s Sanyo placeholder speakers. Look like they should be blasting some New Wave.
Not that any of us did that with the Pinto sound system that we had back in the '80s. ;)
Here's an option that may be worth considering.
I have been comparing and substituting various minor electrical componets from 80 to 86 F-Series trucks to Pinto applications.
There is a place in Kansas that has a whole lot of stuff for Ford, Dodge, and Chevrolet trucks. Long Motor Corporation, (aka LMCtruck.com ), has a dual voice coil, oval speaker, (left & right in one unit), that measures 5" x 7" that sells for $50.00. This speaker would mount in the original center, (mono), Pinto location. The unit would be connected with your final manufacturer's directions, with some of the usually frustrating where do I go from here, however left is left & right is right, power and ground follows, especially grounds, there is no limit of grounds in a motor vehicle that I am most humbly aware of.
As far as I know, (early), Pinto's did not have stereo.
Now I'm not sure what the original Pinto unit measured, but I'm sure that the unit I've mentioned may have it's place. There would be some sound balance issues, with the rest of whatever system you may wish to install, simple, (your original request), it may be with some advice from your local car audio folks. I must say that I do not recall a device of this nature in my 8-Track heydays.
An interesting concept that I've never heard of that I'm willing to invest in.
Another issue is that it only, (if your a member of the 1/4 mile club, can hear the unit said distance from location), may handle only a 120 watts as it is advertised. As far as a guarantee, I fly the Space Shuttle during my lunch time.
Am planning on one of these in my truck, how it would work in my Runabout, I plan to ask one of the car audio warlords, and their existing suppliers. You do not have to go far to find them.
Just a thought.
Al
I wouldnt worry about the blue wires at all! They are to run power to remote switch on amps. Use cigar lighter as mentioned, cut away at the doors....I will! Yellow must go to constant and red to accessory, thats any fuse that lights up a light tester with the key on but not when off. Wire that sweet thang up and burn out while listening to your jams!!!