Well the body is slick, the interior is all painted up, now all I have to do is wet sand the exterior and apply the paint. I've chosen to go with the pearl white( shamrock green pearl) and sublime green stripes. I'm going to black out the chrome to sorta bring the car up a few decades. The interior will be up dated as well I plan to retain the Pinto instumentation in the dash but change the back light to either blue or red and back the less than impressive factory monitoring system with either Dakota Digital or some other type engine monitoring guages( mounted in-dash) the seats are getting new black leatherette w/ sublime green beading as are the door panels. now I'm just down to the dash pad and have no idea where to get one
I got a pad cover on Ebay, looks great.
That may be what I have to do. I also need door seals, and the rear glass seal for the rear glass ( mine has the full glass rear hatch). I'm now sorrta torn between the stock front valence or a custom air dam type that are near impossible to find but it's moving right along. Yesterday I installed all new sound deadner in the floor, inside the rear fender wells and the rear cargo area this way it wont sound like a tin outhouse in a hail storm
If you don't need it to look stock you can repair your current dash pad to look better than original.
You'll need Duct tape, and expanding foam (Great Stuff), and cooking spray
pull the pad off, take a sharp knife, and cut out the sections that have warped up. cut all the way to the steel underneath. take duct tape, lay it sticky side up on a table just a little larger than the crack. then lay more across it covering the first layer completely. spray the back side of the patch with cooking spray then lay it over the crack. take a knife and poke a SMALL hole in the patch close to the center of the repair. fill the crack about halfway with great stuff. it will expand to fill the crack. once it expands you can check to see if there are any voids. if so poke holes into the tape and add just small amounts of foam. once the foam has set (about 2hrs) pull the tape off and trim the repair flush as neccessary with a SHARP knife.
To uhpolster you'll need a GOOD spray glue (I reccommend 3M) quilt batting (optional) fabric, or viynl. If you go with viynl you may find it hard to get smooth. with fabric you can get it with stretch so it will pull right around all the curves.
I believe I am going to try that trick. I found some really nice vynil/ leatherette that is very mouldable. I also found some good interior panel paint/ dye called Fusion made by Krylon. If you follow the instructions on the can it works great to bond to those plastic pieces you wish were a different color
I recovered my dash in a similar way, with the same cloth material I used for the seats. I wasn't concerned about keeping it plyable though so I used body filler and fiberglas to cover my dash and then covered it with cloth. Initially I was going with no cover, thus the fiberglas cover. I used contact cement from a can and spread with a brush. I have not had much luck with the spray cement. If you get contact cement where it shouldn't be, a little paint reducer works good without being too strong. I put vinyl on my roll-bar and then cleaned it up with this procedure.
Steve (BossPinto)
Another option would be send it off to Just Dashes. I don't know how much they charge, but apparently they can make it look like new again. Try justdashes.com.
Just Dashes charges $500 for a rebuild of a 72 dash,
Called them a before christmas, they said the turnaround time is 6 months...
WOW!
Quote from: Scott Hamilton on February 22, 2004, 09:31:03 PM
Just Dashes charges $500 for a rebuild of a 72 dash,
Called them a before christmas, they said the turnaround time is 6 months...
WOW!
That's crazy. I can see maybe half that but not 5 bills??? I would think it would be such a simple fix too being there are no speaker holes designed in. When they come up, it sure makes those mint $100 dashpads on Ebay sound like a real good deal!
I agree,,,