I have a homemade wood splitter. I never saw it run. It has a 1972 Ford 4 cylinder on it, #70HM6015B-A 2.0 122 CI. Right now the engine does not run and it has no compression. A leakdown test shows me the exhaust valves are the cause to zero compression. I believe it was left outside so the valve seats are probably rusted. I had the valve cover off and the valves seem to be opening fine. The head is fastened down with "spleen" bolts. Like a torx but many more points. Anyone know what size they are so I can buy the right size bit. My 2nd question is if the engine is financially beyond repair what other engines have the same bell housing bolt pattern? The shaft that exits the bell housing is welded to the clutch pressure plate, so the pressure plate\crank bolt pattern is important but I guess I could cut the shaft if needed to fit a different crank. Since the engine mounts into the wood splitter using the 4 holes on the small end of the bell housing and the engine mount holes on either side of the block, just re&re'ing another same engine would be nice and easy. I've phoned the Ford autowreckers in Langley and Vancouver BC, Canada, but the guy in Langley said, its like trying to find a needle in a haystack. The guy in Vancouver said bring the engine down and he can find something to match up. I could always swap another brand of engine in but I would prefer to stick to the easier route of staying with the same engine. Any help would be appreciated. I can always post digital pics if it would help.
Since this isn't exactly a high precision application, you might want to try doing this to improve the valve to seat seal before you invest a lot of time and effort in looking for something else or taking the cylinder head off for a valve job. It's worked for me in the past on a few marginally rusty or carboned up valves and seats. If they are really bad, this won't work, but it's probably worth a try. It's a crude method for lapping valves WITHOUT using grinding compound. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
By the way, I'm assuming here that you have already loosened up the valve stems by soaking them with some sort of penetrating oil so that they are not sticking in the valve guides, as this alone can cause a poor compression reading.
Take all the spark plugs out and turn the engine over by hand until you have TDC on cylinder # 1. (At this point some people shove the end of a length of rope in through the spark plug hole, jamming in enough so that the valves can't possibly fall down into the engine too far to grab from their stems.)
Once you have the valve spring retainer, keepers, and valve springs out of your way, (you can leave the valve seals on for this) wrap the valve stem with something like a few turns of electrical tape to protect it and also to give you something to grab onto.
Now all you have to do is to spin the valve, alternating between forwards and backwards while holding it upwards, against the valve seat. Some people go for broke and use a battery powered or electric drill, but I'd try it by hand first, as that may be enough to knock off some high spots.
After doing this for a while, try doing the leakdown test on that cylinder again. If it's now good, you may be lucky and be able to clean up the others the same way.
You may want to blow out the cylinder with compressed air before starting the engine.
BTW, I think that the 12pt. spline drive size you're looking for to use on the 2000cc engines' cylinder head is either 10 or 12mm, as those are the only 2 sizes that I have in one of my tool cabinets, and I'm fairly certain that I bought one of them for retorquing he cylinder head or replacing the timing belt on one of MY Pintos. (I've worked on other manufacturers' engines in the interim, but still haven't had to acquire a full set.)
You should be able to measure closely enough to tell which size is correct. The timing belt tensioner uses either the same size or the other size of the spline drive.
Thanks for all the info. I'll try spinning the valves. I appreciate all your feedback. :)
Took head off engine, here are pics, think I can get parts to rebuild it? Its a 1972, but I don't know what kind of auto it came out of. All ther parts guys need an application. When I say "wood splitter" and they don't know how to use engine casting #'s I'm at a dead end. Here is a link to pics.
http://w65.photobucket.com/widgets/dynamicflash.php?featuretype=bucketshow&featurename=Woodsplitter_engine_pics&pa=/h213/godtool/Pinto%20Engine/
Tell the DA parts guy that you have a 1971-74 Pinto engine 2000cc 122 C.I.
BTW that is 1 ugly 2.0