Well, as you all know I have been trying to figure out why my car would bog down & backfire when revving & accelerating. I fixed the problem under accelerating & to a point while revving, but the problem has returned somewhat.
It ran good for a little bit, but after I replaced a bad egr valve that whas shot beyond belief with a NOS unit off ebay the problem has seemed to return. I thought I might need to adjust the enrivhment screw, but I am not sure how much & what way to turn it to adjust it. I do have the 2.3 with the 5200 carb on it.
I was doing some maintenence on it today so I pulled the timing cover off & the belt did seem quite a bit loose so I'm assuming that might have been some of the problem.
What else do i need to check? Vac lines all good, good compression across the engine, so I'm a bit confused. It runs good for a bit but would act up after a while.
What side of the belt was it loose on. It depends on where the pulleys stop as to which way the tension is on the belt, that's why it needs to be set to the right spot before you set the tension. When the car is running it will keep tension and correct alignment (to a point) even if a little loose.
It was running fine before you replaced the egr? Do you still have the old egr? If so, I would put it back on and see what it does, but they tend to effect the tune only if they leak vac, or exhaust. I know you can just block off the holes on the intake (adapter) and vac and the car normally runs fine.
What did you do to fix it before?
Bill
Put a timing gun on the engine and with it running rev the motor and keep the gun on the crankshaft marks. See if the timing is advancing when you rev the engine. Also is your car an auto or a manual?
Jake
77turbopinto: The old egr valve was junk the rubber was all cracked up & the velve itself was all plugged up. The timing belt was rather loose all over no matter where I went to check it. I know some belt deflection is normal, but it seemed quite excessive. Before when I was having a similar problem I changed the spark plugs & rebuilt the carb. The choke & the rest of the carb is set according to specs, but I'm not too sure about the enrichment screw position. The plugs were fouling out a bit so I thought it's dunping too much fuel. Just not too sure what way to turn the screw & how much.
Pulled of the timing cover & checked the cam timing & found out it was off by about a tooth. Went ahead & replaced the timing belt since it was all cracked. but now the car won't start at all. I sprayed some starter fluid in the carb to get it started & it would attempt to start but would not stay running. I then pulled the plugs & they were wet with gas, as well as the electrodes being a little darker than I would like. Does this sound like the enrichment screw being out?
SOMEBODY HELP ME OUT HERE!!! I"M GETTING TIRED OF NO REPLIES!
Did you spin the motor one full revolution after you installed the timing belt? Just to make sure the timing marks still line up after the belt was installed?
Jake
I did twice & they line up perfectly, & after I couldnt get it started I rechecked it & the marks are still right on the money.
I would check to be sure that your AUX shaft is still in time. Pull dist. cap and set at top dead center and see if rotor is pointing at #1 terminal.
It is pointed toards the number one terminal. Even traced the wires just to make sure. I aprreciate the tips, but the problem is lying elsewhere as the belt is on properly, the marks line up perfectly & the rotor is pointing towards the number one terminal. Next tip please. I want this thing running soon as my dad is tired of looking at it in his driveway. :(
You have not stated whether or not it has any spark at the plugs?
Just got a chance to work on the car. It's been raining cats & dogs out here. Anyways, I checked & I was getting spark.
For whatever reason I found the plug wires were swapped around. I had the hood down but not latched so some kids prolly messed with it, since I had not touched the plug wires since god knows when. Anyways, the car runs & I made an adjustment to the enrichment screw, thanks to some help from dirt track demon & it has seemed to help. I can't be too sure as I don't have the radiator in the car since it's being serviced but if the problem comes back I'll post it.
You're welcome, find out which kid it was and lay a charged condenser on his bicycle seat.
lol.. shocking idea!! :evil: Now I just gotta track down the brat that did it. the neighborhood's crawling with them.
:accident: :text_yb_wtf: That damn car is running like $hit again!!! Here's what I noticed after I got the radiator & transmission fluid back in it:
Starts great, but idles high. When I shut off the car it diesels. When I rev the engine it bogs down regardless how much gas I give it. If I try to give it more gas it backfires.
The timing (both cam & ignition) are set perfectly. No vecuum leaks. New plugs wires cap rotor. No play in the distributor. Could there be a problem with the vacuum advance causing it to not run right?
All I know is I need the car to run right, but it won't do that. HELP!!!! :text_yb_asap: :text_yb_please:
Hello R4,
Is your choke plate staying open?
From Pintony
When the engine's cold the choke plate is closed. When it warms up the plate opens up & will stay open till it cools down. Isn't this how it's supposed to operate?
Sounds like no fuel delivery to carb.
Then how do I fix it?? I don't know carbs at all.
Hey Matt,
This sound`s like a vacuum leak to me...have you thoroughly checked all line`s for crack`s or leak`s? Or a bad seal on the carb base gasket...check all line`s running to charcoal canister`s and any vacuum motor`s...hope this help`s...
Rex
R4.. I`m throwing this in although I`ve re read all the posts and you`ve not mentioned working on the carb.. but my Pinto (the 1 I should of never let go)did all the same...high idle at start up ..bogged down when reving and a big swoosh sometimes with flames out the carb when pressed..when I reassembled the carb I put the float in upside down...and I didn`t seat the needle all the way..not one of my proudest moments mind you ...hope this helps
Quote from: 73pintogeek on March 16, 2006, 04:08:57 PM
Hey Matt,
This sound`s like a vacuum leak to me...have you thoroughly checked all line`s for crack`s or leak`s? Or a bad seal on the carb base gasket...check all line`s running to charcoal canister`s and any vacuum motor`s...hope this help`s...
Rex
There's only a foil hose going to the air cleaner. It's beel like this since I bought the car & didn't have this kind of problem when I bought the car. The carb base gasket is brand new, but I'll check it to see if it might be loose.
Quote from: 80bobcat on March 16, 2006, 04:14:45 PM
R4.. I`m throwing this in although I`ve re read all the posts and you`ve not mentioned working on the carb.. but my Pinto (the 1 I should of never let go)did all the same...high idle at start up ..bogged down when reving and a big swoosh sometimes with flames out the carb when pressed..when I reassembled the carb I put the float in upside down...and I didn`t seat the needle all the way..not one of my proudest moments mind you ...hope this helps
I've actually rebuilt the carb & all was put back together the right way. I dbl checked it all when I noticed a problem happening. The high idle I found to be caused by the curb idle was too high. I adjusted the idle down & now it idles fine but still bogs down & backfires if I try to give it too much gas.
It actually acts to me like it's out of gas, but it's got a full tank of fresh gas from Mobil.
Anybody?? I know somebody has got to know what my car is doing. I've been told not getting fuel, but not how to fix it. I need help with this as I can't fix it on my own. I don't know these older cars. Get me a new fuel injection car & I can figure what's wrong, but get me a carburated car & I'm totally stupid. I'm asking the questions I am for 2 reasons. 1- to fix my car & 2- TO LEARN.
Somebody please give me some help!!!
Did you put the check balls back in the accelerator pump?
There were no check balls in the accelerator pump when I took the carb apart to rebuild. just to make sure. The accelerator pump is on the side with the plunger right?
I know there were 2 check balls inder this wierd forked thingy held on by a screw & I'm about 98% sure I put them back in there.
Hello r4,
That is right. Under the discharge nozel.
Double check that they are there.
Are you getting a good squirt. Check to make sure.
Engine not running is the best way to see, but be carefull not to foul out the plugs by flooding the engine.
If not pull the nozel and use a .019 drill bit to open up any clog.
a .021 will give you a better squirt.
From Pintony
Where can I find that size drill bit at? I will check to see if the check balls are there & hopefully they are & also see if it is getting a good squirt. If all else fails I found out haynes makes a holley carb book so I'll go through that as well.
Pull fuel line at carb. and put it in a container of some sort, 1liter pop bottle is good. Crank or start engine at let run or continue cranking for about 10-15 secs. and see how much fuel goes into container. This will tell how much fuel pump volume is. I would hope it would put out at least 16 ounces in that time frame.
Quote from: fast34 on March 17, 2006, 02:10:58 PM
Pull fuel line at carb. and put it in a container of some sort, 1liter pop bottle is good. Crank or start engine at let run or continue cranking for about 10-15 secs. and see how much fuel goes into container. This will tell how much fuel pump volume is. I would hope it would put out at least 16 ounces in that time frame.
That is an exelent idea Fast34!
Also check to make sure the short fuel line near the tank has not swelled-shutt from age.
From Pintony
that actually was the first thing I did long ago. The volume turned out to be ok, but the pump was oe so I replaced it anyways. As for the rubber lines at the tank they exploded when I bought the car so they're pretty much brand new.
Friday after work I actually did some tooling around on the car thanks to some info I found in the Holley carb book by Haynes that we sell at work, & when it came to it ended adjusting the fast idle. It's seemed to have help somewhat, but not completely taken care of the problem. I'm gonna recheck timing & everything since that whole setting was messed up badly. It was set as per the rebuild kit, but aparently not set right. Thank god for customers that return a book that hasn't even been in stock for 2 weeks.
Fast idle setting "should", have nothing to do with a problem you are experiencing. Just remember that if you set your timing (ignition), to stock settings, it will probably not run at it's best.
Well, it did. You say stock timing settings aren't the best? Then what is?
well, like pintony said check the accelorator pump to make sure the check ball is in there, there IS supposed to be one. When we rebiult the carb on our 57 fairlane the check ball was actually hung up on the bottom of the accelorator pump. Do they still use the rubber and cloth things in those? If they do than I would definantly replace that, that would really cause the carb to seem like it's bogging. Also, check that spacer/gasket between the carb and intake. even a slight warpage in the intake could cause a vacuum leak, another problem so found on the 57. What we did is plug off the holes and take a block sander with some sandpaper and smoothed it out and we cleaned up the spacer and got a new gasket and then sealed it with some silicone, and she works great now. As for the backfiring... still sounds like timing to me. Oh yeah, there are lots of little passages in your carb. Something could be clogged
If you have an auto trans. timing will be alot more sensitive. Set it at around 12 to 15 degrees and try it there, that is where I have my auto car set at, WITHOUT VACUUM ADVANCE!! I have found that if the vac advance is hooked up, it will ping or pre-detonate at part throttle operation. Otherwise, set it close to where I said, then DRIVE the car with the dist. lock down loose enough to still move it , and set it to where the engine runs good and does not ping under heavy, but not full throttle. Try it with AND without vac advance hooked up. Also be sure that the vac port that goes to your dist from carb is a "timed" port, meaning it only pulls vacuum when the throttle is opening. I think you will find that it is better without the vac. especially if it is an auto. As to why your fast idle adjustment helped, I do not know, it should not have as the problem is no where near related to that part of the carbs operation.
hmmm.. i'll give that timing setting a try. Thanx ;D
Car now fixed. ignition timing was set wrong by some idiot (me) that forgot to unhook the vacuum advance before setting it. Did that, & now she's got guts to her... Only problem is it will hesitate for a brief second before taking off.. then, WHEEE!!!!!! :fastcar:
Good deal!
Now you have no reason not to be at Carlisle (you diddn't not understand that right?).
Bill
Yup, & be there she will. I just gotta replace the rear axle & reassemble the interior. It's mostly sitting in pieces throughout my garage & the floor of the Pinto.
Thanx to everyones help my car is as healthy as it could be.
first what kind of carb? if not holley it can be curb idel screws are set to lean/rich ty rule of thumb 1 1/2 turns each side
if a holley you may have poped the power valve.
if holley does it have a back fire check valve in it?
wayne johisaree@yahoo.com
First, I said in my original post it was a 5200. Second, I said in my last post the problem was fixed.