can anyone tell me what kinda mark I am looking on the Cam Pulley (Top Pulley), Mine has three mag wheel type holes and two small not thru holes, but my Clymers Book says to look through for a mark, but I dont see one..
But for TDC, I am going to use the visual method, watch valves in head, and put coat hanger down SP hole 1
2.0 or 2.3??
Shoot,forgot that......... 2.3
Hello PPR,
Remember... If the belt is off tdc is tdc.
At TDC the #1 and #4 Piston are @the top of the cylinder and #2 & #3 are at BDC
If you have the valve cover off it is a simple matter of putting the #1 cam lobes level to the hed plane. Esslinger describes this as the E-bar method.
On the 2.0 toy look through a hole one the 2.3 you must have the timming cover "Back 1/2 installed"
The cover has the pointer and the arrow is on the edge of the gear. The arrow need to be at about 5 -0-clock.
If you are not running a timming gear? LMK I let you know how to do the mech. timming that way.
From Pintony
If you're just replacing a worn belt and your timing is still correct, theres a little trick my dad taught me that will help a lot.
Take a knife and cut a slit about halfway through the old belt and then start cutting in the direction the belt turns. Like you're trying to make two belts out of one. When you get half of the old belt off, the other half will still be there holding the engine in time still.
Now, slip your new belt on the newly exposed gear surface (may have to releive the tensioner a little and just keep pushing it on until it bottoms on the old belt. Take your knife and finish cutting across the old belt and just pull the rest off. Slide the new belt the rest of the way on and your good to go.
I've used this method and it works well. The hardest part about these timing belts is making sure the aux. shaft doesn't turn and throw your distributor off.
-Harry
Hey Harry,
Have you ever installed a new belt in the middle of the San Mateo bridge? ;D
From Pntony
I think that is what is missing, the back timing cover. I have the front, but no back..............
OK If the timming cover back is missing the arrow on the gear should ba at about 5- oclock.
I am almost sure the crank keyway and the cam keyway should line up.
The keyway for the cam should be "DOWN" and the crank keyway should be "UP"
Thanks Tony. I just got done looking at it again (i am fighting a cold), I found a "Pin Mark" on the camshaft pulley, and by watching the valves and the piston (down the #1 sparkplug) it is about 1/3 to 1/2 turn off. So I am going to order a new timing belt tomorrow, and get it all back together.
What is this about not running timing? Is this possible, how do you do it, and what is the advantage...
I normaly use a paint pen and mark a few spots (dots) on the gears and belt before I pull off the old one. I put the old one on it's side, put the new one on top, and "transfer" all the marks. Line up the marks when you install it.
I like the cut belt too, will try that next time.
Bill
I have a way to identify the bottom marks. On the bottom gear, there should be a little triangle shape on it. There is also a notch that is cast into the front seal cover, line them up. Also, on the little slinger, looking guide piece, look at the front of it, as it would be installed. If you clean it well, you should see a little etched line on it. If you line it up with the notch, it will be on TDC. I like to take my hacksaw, and cut along the etch about 1/4" deep, then grind it smooth. Makes for quick checks at the track as far as timing goes. Try and find the rear cover half, it makes it alot easier to do a quick reference check at the track. Remember if your head is shaved alot, you will have to elongate the hole that bolts it to the head.
;D Thanks for all y'alls help. I got it running tonight. Once I replace everything, I took out the distributor, put it back in facing #1, still wouldnt start. Looked at the cap, and moved the wires to the right posts, and she fired right up. The locking bolt was loose when I removed the distributor, so it must have jumped and advanced or retarded it self, along with the driver. Again, thanks for the help. Now I have time to paint it...maybe...