The garage isn't organized and most of my stuff and tools are still in boxes. I couldn't wait any longer and removed the leaf springs, shocks, and lowering blocks from the 79 Pinto to be swapped onto the 78.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20221.jpg)
Heres the 79 on jack stands and ready to come apart.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20223.jpg)
The first bolt I went to remove, broke. ::)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20232.jpg)
The parts removed.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20237.jpg)
Its the 78s turn now. Here is the drivers side.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20238.jpg)
Once the parts are swapped, the brakes will be next. The front suspension, steering and brakes go after that. ;D
WOW!!!
That is the first time I have seen someone use the T.C. intercooler on a Pinto!
COOL!!!!!
Go Pete, Get er done!
Quote from: Pintony on January 27, 2006, 10:39:00 PM
WOW!!!
That is the first time I have seen someone use the T.C. intercooler on a Pinto!
COOL!!!!!
There are a few guys running them. SVOWagon used to. TurboToy too, I think.
I'm not going to cut the 78s hood. I'll run the TC cooler for a short while. Then, I'll put in a front mount. I have a Volvo front mount and have read that they can handle only about 15 psi. I'm planning more than that and would like to keep from making 2 sets of pipes,mounts,etc.
Quote from: 78pinto on January 28, 2006, 09:50:40 AM
Go Pete, Get er done!
I'm tryin. :D
I didnt do this on the 79 but shouldve. I'm using Racer Walshes lowering blocks that take the place of the top rubber. It leaves about a one inch gap. I'm going to use one by one square tube to fill the gap. Here I'm mocking it up to see if it will work.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20242.jpg)
Hello Glassman.
That does not look right.
the spacer is supposed to go on top of the top plate not in with the springs.
Your Pinto is going to SQUEAK horibally of you do not use the rubber.
From pintony
I also noticed you have the spring upside down. Unless you just usin it to show for the photo.
From Pintony
Cant get anything by you, Tony. :laugh:
I should've noted the spring was upside down. I was just using it for the mock up to measure the gap. I was posting as my wife was calling me to eat dinner. I had to make it quick. Heres a pic. of the way it was together in the 79.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/1979fordpintowagon/2568000-R1-038-17A.jpg)
The lowering blocks are actually roundy round racing lowering blocks from Walsh. They dont have the discription on the site. http://www.racerwalsh.com/product/RWA2230 (http://www.racerwalsh.com/product/RWA2230) The old catalog I have says the blocks replace the rubber bushings at the leaf spring/U bolt mount. BY removing the rubber bushings, spring wind up and axle hop is reduced. I'm going to leave the bottom bushings in this time.
The blocks fit very tightly in the mount. I have to grind them to fit. I'm going to use super hard plastic shims between the block and leaf springs. They are 1/16" thick. I'll weld the 1"x1" tube to the shock mount bracket and put the square hole in that so the upper and lower mounts fit together like stock.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20243.jpg)
Hello Glassman,
The roundy round guys could care less if their car squeaks a bit.
I ordered a set of those blocks from R.W. 20 years ago. I had to modify them to fit the early Pinto pearch that used a round tit instead of the oval tit on the later Pinto.
I installed them the way you have and the squeak was awful.
I was so imbarrased at Street Machine Nationals putt-ing around the fairgrounds in 1987.
I used an extra 1/2 tank of gas just reving my engine to cover the SQUEAKS. ;D
After I got home i re-installed the rubber and put the block on top of the plate.
Maybe you will have better luck?
From Pintony
Your way sounds easier. I did my 76 wagon like that with 2" blocks ment for a *GASP* Chevy truck. The blocks were not solid like the RW blocks and were easy to make work. I would have to grind out yhe bottom of the blocks to fit the oval tit. Still would be easier than the RW way, I think.
This is what I came up with.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20252.jpg)
I didnt like how much slop the block had at the top. I cut the sides off of the brackets from the 79 wagon and enlarged the hole on the bottom of the blocks.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20254.jpg)
A shot during the hole reshaping.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/Misc.%20pics%20253.jpg)
I had to cut the rubber bushings flush with the top of the tit.
I have to get longer u-bolts. Before I can go further.
:tgif:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78%20pinto%20012.jpg)
Back together. :look:
Hello glassman,
I see you painted your blocks "BLACK".
That is a very good idea.... After a few years the un-protected aluminum gets really flaky.
Good Show Mate!
From pintony
plus without the rubber in there you will be more likely to start snapping and breaking things. my roundy round has the rubbers in it.
Tony, I'm going to paint everything once the car is on the road and debugged. I really need to drive it. :afro:
Yeah Demon, I think I like this set-up better. I am going to have a traction device of some sort also.
Hey Pete!
Nice to see you back at it! I'm working on getting another Pinto. Will keep you posted! Keep up the good work!
Hi Brian.
I was thinking about you the other day. Almost sent an E-mail. My lazy butt hasnt got the e-mail up and running yet. :sleep:
I'm glad youre getting another Pinto. I havent taken the 78 engine bay album down yet because its getting hits still.
The starter on the 78 is oil soaked or just plain worn out. I was going to drive the 78 for a while but Ive decided if I was going to swap starters I might as well just swap engines. I'm shooting to have it back on the road by May, 2006. I'm already fighting the urges to strip paint and detail.
Heres a pic of the 78 as of last night.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78%20pinto%20027.jpg)
It should be on all fours today,
Woo hoo!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/large/78%20pinto%20031.jpg)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/large/78%20pinto%20034.jpg)
Cool wagon! I just picked up a 86 Merkur complete engine, harness, ECU, gastank and everything else to do the swap on my 74 wagon. I also just managed to score the 86 bellhousing and am working on the rest of the parts. Still need to find the WC T5 but that should not be that difficult. Any advice on the swap would be appreciated. Love all wagons!
Jake
Getting closer to gutting this one.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20007_1.jpg)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20012_1.jpg)
The rack is out also. Next will be the master cylinder, throttle cable and clutch, brake assembly.
I need to get this done since I just lost first gear in the SVO tonight. :accident: :hypno:
Quote from: Gaslight on February 20, 2006, 07:56:00 AM
Cool wagon! I just picked up a 86 Merkur complete engine, harness, ECU, gastank and everything else to do the swap on my 74 wagon. I also just managed to score the 86 bellhousing and am working on the rest of the parts. Still need to find the WC T5 but that should not be that difficult. Any advice on the swap would be appreciated. Love all wagons!
Jake
Hi Jake,
When swapping in the T-5 with a mechanical clutch, the cable hits the crossmember. Here is a pic of my 79 wagon with an 88 Turbo coupe 2.3 and T-5 with a I dont know what year mech. clutch bell, fork and cable. It also uses the "dogbone" cable. I'm thinking about replacing that with threaded rod and nuts.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78%20pinto%20004.jpg)
FOR A REALLY BIG PIC. CLICK HERE-->http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/78%20pinto%20004.jpg (http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/78%20pinto%20004.jpg)
This picture was taken right before the engine and trans. were removed. the plastic nut is loosened almost all the way.
I'm going to notch the crossmember on the 78 and reinforce it somehow. ???
Thanks for the pic. I will keep this in mind. Is there any room to shorten the mount of the bellhousing and weld it back on?
Jake
Ill have to look at it and see. I have read about a few guys elongating the hole. Ive also heard of a few running it like it is. Theres been a couple who are running with a notched crossmember with no bracing.
Thanks Glassman for sharing the pics/info. I am planning on getting the RW blocks at some point, along with installing my T5 so this helps confirm that I might actually be able to do it myself.
You're welcome guys. Getting the info out is what its all about. I learned almost everything about the swap on-line.
Doesn't look like the hole can be moved much because of the brace.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20022.jpg)
If you haven't already read the T-5 swap thread, then you might want to know that:
"The D9 bell (4spd.) will bolt to a t-5 and will keep you from having to notch the crossmember.
Bill"
From 77turbopinto
Hey DW you can use generic lowering blocks. My first set were 2" blocks ment for Chevy trucks. Ive read that the E-Bay ones work good. You still need to get longer U-bolts. Ive had them made at tracter trailer repair and suspension shops. The last set I bought were in stock. They were longer than I needed and I had to cut them shorter.
I'm thinking of going down 3" in the rear.
Today will be a fun day. :lol: I'm going to cut the rear off the wagon.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20026.jpg)
A few of you might remember back a couple years when The idea of replacing the wagons tail lights with 93ish Escort wagon tail lights was floating around.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/1979fordpintowagon/websize/redpintoone%20escortlight2.jpg)
I still want to try it out but, I'm nervous I might not like them and will have ruined the 78s rear. I need the space the 79 is taking in the garage. So, Ive decided to keep just the last 18" or so of the rear. I can do the swap on it and throw it away when I'm done. I also think it would look cool hanging on the wall. :drunk:
It went quiker than I had thought it would. :coolafro:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20031.jpg)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20034.jpg)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/pandbz/78pintowagon/websize/78pinto%20032.jpg)
I think you need to switch to decaf!
Jake
Ok,, I would have just changed the tail-lights instead of the whole backof the car ;) :lol:
BTW what are you doing?
Finishing up an engine swap on a Supra and do a couple of things on a LS1 Nova conversion so I can get started on the engine swap in the Pinto.
Jake