Not that Im an expert on all turbo applications but I have built a few. Also knowlagable in 71-73 Pinto's and as for Pangras I can help you out there also. If I cant help Im sure I can find someone who can.
Any ideas or tips on putting a 85 ford 2.8 V-6 in a 71 pinto with little or no effort?? Ha Ha .Really if you know anyone or have parts list required we would thank you......don
What do you suggest for a fuel system? Sumping the stock tank, a fuel cell, etc.?
My car won't be street driven often, so using a cell isn't a big deal for me.
A fuel Cell would be perferable, however I am using the stock tank modifyed for -6 line on my 2.5 turbo car and it workes fine but dont let it get lower than 1/4 tank or it will start to starve. Im going to be using the Summit Pro Street with foam and sender pt#sum-290108 ( make sure it has a ford sender) for my Pangra Project.
I just need to know what i need to put a 2.3 turbo in my pinto i just got it. I am installing a 2.3 4 speed now so i can drive it for now but i want to go with a turbo 5 speed and i need to know if i can go turbo without useing the wiring out of the t-bird and use the factory pinto harness. Or just any info i have seen a few turbo t-birds but i have never seen a pinto changed over so any help would be great . Thanks
HUH, well, thats about a full page for your answer SO, Ill do the short version ( for now). First off to do the 2.3 turbo ( EFI version) you will need a donor wire loom, computer and sensors. The pinto harness will not work at all ( in place of ) the EFI wire loom. To get a BUNCH of info on the install go to www.turboford.org
and search this topic.
Thanks turbopinto 72 . I have another ? What will a 75 pinto run with the turbo in it. Just looking 4 a guess . I have alot of diffrent gears that i can go with so gears will be up to my choice .
Well, that depends on a lot of things. My 72, with a stock 84 SVO motor ran low 13s with a 5speed trans and BFG Drag radials and 3:55 gear. The same car now runs low 11s. You car will weigh more so that will affect your ET. Dont count on going out to the track and ripping off 13s with out going through a lot of trial and error becouse it take some time to get the bugs out.
72, What did you do to your "stock" 84 motor to get into the 13's? I don't want to piss you off or anything, but I find it VERY hard to believe that it ran low 13's. I've done some work (not much) to my 88 T/C motor and I'm running mid to high 14's. I also am running a 5 speed and drag radials. I did have 3.55s , but with the shitty first gear in the trans, I changed to 3.00. With the 3.55s, the motor revved so quickly off the line, that the turbo couldn't even build boost. I found that the car went faster if I started out in second gear. That is way I went with the 3.00 gears. Anyway.....even when I had the 3.55s in the car, it was nowhere near 13s....what gives?
SVOwagon
First off, weight gives. My car weighs 2380 with 3/4 tank of gas and a 6 point rollbar. The early runs did not have the bar so It weighed about 2300 lbs. Im thinking that is probably lighter than a wagon by about 100 lbs or so. There is a tenth right there. Next is the 60ft time On my 13.29 sec 1/4 mile et I ran a dismal 2.03 60ft, but my guess is if you are having a tough time building boost your 60 ft times are lousy. I do have an innercooler and I did run 17/18 lbs of boost. Dont know what you are running but every lb of boost is about 10 hp. I did have an adjustable cam pully which I had set at 8* retard. I also had a 3" exhaust system. The day I thru a rod I ran a best of 13.10 @ 102.58. and a 1.9 60 ft. I did a lot of tuning on that motor so it was not right out of the box. As a matter of fact my first run was a 14.79 @ 96.25 mph spinning the tires to a 2.44 60ft but the second run was a 13.66@ 98 and a 2.03 60ft time. Any way, Id would be more than happy to help with your combo If I can.
Well I guess I did jump the gun a little, :-X Do you think I should put different gears in? My boost is only at 15...pinges like hell if I go higher, even with 93 in the tank. I just got my 3" done and not had time to run it yet. Maybe that will help a little. I'm thinking the gears are holding me back. I would like the wagon to run faster before I start really digging into the motor.
One more thing about the boost, is it better to have more boost and less timing...or more timing and less boost?
SVOwagon
If you are pinging ( or more like detonating ) you cant run more timing. I would back off the timing a little. I think stock is 10* adv at 1000 rpm. I run my 2.5 at 6* advance and 20 lbs boost. What you realy need is to get more fuel in that thing. Want injectors are you running? If you dont have the fuel you cant have the boost. As far as gears I would leave the 3:55s in it and forget it for a long time. There is more to be gained in the motor than with gears right now.
It's not pinging (detonating) anymore, just if I try to run more then 15 psi. If I back the timing off (don't know what it is set at right off hand) and added more boost, will that help any? Kind of like the way your 2.5 is. I'm running the stock 35 injectors. So you are saying to put the 3.55s back in? Ok here is a run down. MSD 255 in-line pump, SVO .60/.48 T3, Gutted and ported intake, 94 5.0 throttle body, mild port E6, LA3, 88 T/C intercooler ( not helping much, no hood scoop) 3.00 posi, 15 psi, 215/60/14 BFG drag radials, K&N filter, big VAM....I would think all of this would be good for at least low 14 to high 13. What do you think? I know my driving needs some help...but I'm no rookie..I've been driving the hell out of this thing for about a year and a half.
SVOwagon
Yes put the 3:55s back in. your 35 lb injectors need to be like 45s or even 52s. Mine are 52s and need to be like 72s. Now, a word on gutted ported intakes. I am CONVENCED that a gutted intake will kill the motor. Yes I will say it again. A gutted intake will kill the motor. I know this becouse of the melted #1 piston sitting in my 2.5 right now. I feel that becouse of the longer runner to the #1 chamber, that if you use a gutted upper and especially rotate it forward the #1 chambe WILL run lean ( check you pulgs ) My #1 plug was allways a little cleaner than all the rest but I didnt know how badly it was running lean ( and I had all my injectors ballanced by RC Engenering) IF I had it all to do again I would have left the Intake ported ( gasket matched ) and not gutted anything. I dont think there is anyone who can tell you that they gained X hp simply by gutting the upper. If I were you I would put a ranger roller cam in it with an adjustable cam pulley, port the snot out of an E6 ex manifold ( i.e. being able to stick a 5/8 wrench thru the #4 ex port and pulling it out of the turbo flange) get that 3" ex system on it and think seriously about a chip of some kind. also, if you can try and find some 103 unleaded to take the edge off the detonation when the thing gets hot.
I ran high 13's in my 74 with a 160k mile TC motor and an IHI set at 15psi. It was on BFG's with 3.55's.
OK....Thats it >:(..I'm putting the 3.55s back in. Killer74, is there anything else you can tell me that would help me get into the 13s? I have more mods on the way, but would like to see 13s with the way the car is now...(after I but the 3.55s back in that is)
SVOwagon
Hmmmm....I had a Volvo intercooler on board. My car seemed to like the 3.00 gears better....I was able to boost in 1st.
Brad, thinking about your post on the gutted upper. I don't see how it would cause the #1 to run lean. The bottom runners are equal aren't they? And with the injectors at the cyl. shorter runners would be the ones to lean out wouldn't they?
I've actualy run a holley 600 and a plate NOS kit on top of a stock lower intake and never had a problem.
the #1 cyl is furthest away from the fuel supply so if you had a volume or pressure problem #1 would be affected.
Just some ideas ;)
Great now I don't know what to do. (gears) From my experience, with the 3.55s the car wouldn't make boost in 1st, but it seems to me that my car should be in the 13s and all I can think of is that the gears are holding me back. When your car ran 13s, can you list the mods that were done to your car at that time. And, how did the car react when you change the gears to 3.00. Thanks
SVOwagon
I take it back....I ran 13.88 @110 after I put the 8" rear, and traction bars.
The 3.55 gears were in my little rearend and I kept breaking axles. I was running low 14's with the 3.55's cuz I couldn't build boost in 1st. I was able to spray (75 shot) that motor into the 12's
the only mods I had then were a good MSD, volvo IC, and 18 psi. That was with the IHI. I haven't got a good pass out of the new combo yet :-\
I'm about to throw a tarp over it and forget about it for a while!
110mph, that should be about a mid 12,s or a bit lower in the quarter mile! I ran 12.7 at 106....are you getting any traction? What was your 60ft time? Mine was 1.777 with no tire spin using 26X10.5X15 M/T ET streets.
On the problem of the number one cylinder running lean, I was wondering if the stock fuel rail is still being used? With size 52 injectors, there is about 50% more fuel needed. The stock rail gets its delivery at the rear (farthests from #1). All the other injectors including the fuel return take fuel from the rail before it reaches the number one cylinder. If the fuel rail has been upgraded, never mind.
I used the stock unit but added an extra fuel entry point at the ( end) of the rail giving it a 2 point fuel entry and 1 return. I used a Paxton fuel regulator and a 930, 255 gpm pump.