Im looking for a Power Brake Pedal and bracket also with clutch pedal for my 76 pinto, to convert it to power brakes from manual. I have all the rest of the parts. I happened to run across a Mustang II that has power brakes and a manual transmission. Will the brake bracket and pedal from it work? Or does the Mustang II use a seperate pedal/bracket assembly? I also need to know if the air conditioning setup from a 79 pinto will fit in the dash and under the hood of my 76 pinto? Both are sedans. If anyone has any info on this please let me know!! Im NEED to know this stuff pretty badly.
I installed the a/c box in my 77, but it was from a 77. I found a 79 a/c car, removed the box, and from what I can tell it is the same (or at least fit/bolt into a pre 79). The heater cores have different part #'s for the different years, but like I said, they look the same. When I get the chance I will remove the core from the 79 and compare them. ALL the underdash parts/ducts are different for the a/c set-up. Are you planning to install the full a/c system?
I did not think the pedals were different for p/b and m/b cars so I can't help you there. Also, I don't know if the MII's had the same parts, but a dealer might be able to tell you if they have the same part #'s. Someone here might have the part lists too.
Bill
Thank you. I just bought a 79 Pinto parts car that has factory air. Im hoping all that stuff will fit in my 76, and i beleive it will, bit i guess ill see. I got the whole car for cheap and it has a motor trans and rear, so even if the AC stuff doesnt fit, i wont be out the money. I'm going to replace all the AC parts that i can while the stuff is apart, so i dont have to take it apart later on.
Also, what would be better, to use a replacement 76 AC/HEAT core, or a replacement 79 Heat/AC Core?
I would get the one for the box. The box might have some changes made to it for those years but still fit in the older ones. I would test install it before getting the core (just use the empty main box)
BTW: You WILL HATE working with it. Take you time and disassemble as much as you can before you try to get it out from under there. It is like a ship in a bottle. It is very easy to snap the edge of the duct that goes up to the cowl. Pull the seats, console frame, guages, carpet, radio, glove box and door, and ..... Just get everything out of the way, trust me, there is not much room to work.
Bill
Also, the boxes use some different mount holes, but in the same basic pattern. The car will have dimples were the new holes need to be placed.
Bill
Yeah i knew i was in for a hell of a job. I hope it will be worth it tho. Nice flat firewall for my turbo swap (and still have heat, and get AC out of it too!) I need to find pictures of a pinto that has working AC installed, so i know what i need to get that goes outside the firewall in the engine compartment. The parts cars compressor and hoses and stuff were already gone when i got the car.All thats left that you can see is the stuff that is sticking out of the firewall for the hoses and stuff to connect to....and the heater/ac box and all its stuff inside. I will definantly test fit stuff before it all goes together. I really think it will be fine tho. I cant imagine them making a different heater box several different times...
Ok...my 76 will have the dimples for the 79 box? Indicating where i need to put new holes?
The reason I put that a/c box in my car was for the turbo swap too, but I have my doubts on if there would be room to hook up the a/c. The evap. mount block will be in about the same location as the blower motor was. It is smaller, but having that much heat near it might be an issue too.
As far as I can tell the dimples will line up in my 77 for the 79 box (2 different core part #'s), but you can double check that on yours. The dimples shoud be visable from under the hood. I made a template from cardboard to check it before I drilled mine. I used the other holes to mount the heat shield. I have a pic. in "carbbed turbo" on page 3 or 4.
Did you see my post in the FAQ section about the turbo swap?
Bill
I'll find a way to make the AC work. hehehe. I will probably in the end move the o2 sensor down in the pipe a little, and/or use one of bobs centermount headers (from turboford.net) to move the turbo and stuff to the center of the engine instead of the rear of it. If theres a way to make the AC work, i will find it. :-D Thanks.
James
I updated my last post.
Bill
I'll look at the pics section and the FAQ
James
The center dump header will give you less hood room if that is an issue for you. For me it was, I like the sleeper look.
Bill
Just a possible word of warning:
I'm sure the heater box design changed between 73 and 76/79, but the heat in my 73 absolutly sucks. I tried flushing the heater core, which helped a little, I Finaly replaced the heater core and it made no difference. Replaced T-stat in engine and checked to make sure all of the heater doors/ducts were opening, which they were. The heat still sucked.
My old man had a 73 without A/C and he said the heat would run you out of the car and that mine was really weak compared to his. So I've come to the conclusion that the Factory A/C units limit the heat output. Just hope this doesn't happen to you.
Also, its major PITA to change the heater core in A/C units, so put a new one in when you install the box. Its also much simpler to remove/replace the box if you pull the dashboard out, but to do that you have to remove the windshield...so if your windshield is cracked, might as well kill two birds with one stone.
-Harry
From what I remember the 79-80 dash can be removed without removing the windshield (glue in). When I removed the box from the 79 in the jy, I removed all the bolts exept the ones under the windsheild, and was able to slightly rotate the dash for more room.
The box has a door that only lets the air pass thru either the core or the evap., but not both at once. My car has the a/c box with the evap removed, but the door is still in it. The a/c cars tend to have a heater shut off in one of the hoses to stop the flow of hot coolant into the box when the a/c is on.
Bill
The windshield is fine on my car, i think the gasket needs to be replaced tho. The heat on my 76 doesnt work worth a d*mn as it is unfortunatly. Its a non ac car right now, i had another 76 just like it and the heat worked ok on it i think. Im beginning to wonder if maybe this isnt worth doing....AC sure would be nice tho....and the flat firewall for the turbo swap...i guess i'll see....
The a/c box is much easier to deal with when the evap is removed, and the drain is cut off the bottom (along with the other stuff I mentioned).
Bill
I think you'd be better off driving your 'burban, lol stick with what you like, stay away from my pintos!!! (just givin you a hard time burb, lol)
lol. The burb doesnt have AC (that works). There is a clog in the AC hoses somewhere. My pinto will be sweet when its done!! I cant wait!! You need to show me your pintos :)
there are pics of my first one in the "your pintos" catagory, but it got wrecked, my other pintos are going to be finished before i take pics i think.
Here's some input on the different questions. First, on the AC issue. The boxes changed somewhere in early '78 production and went thru '80. If you look at the control assy for the later cars, you'll see that "Off" is all the way to the left, plus they use a different heater core. On the earlier units, the AC settings are all the way to the left with "Off" to the right of the AC settings. This may create some issues if you attempt to use the earlier control assy with the later box. Also, the later control assys mount differently than the earlier ones do. As far as the difference between manual and power brake pedals goes, the power brake pedal is longer overall and also longer from the pedal pivot point to the brake pushrod pin. The reason for this is to REDUCE the leverage the pedal provides. If you attempt to use a manual brake pedal with a brake booster you'll end up going through the windshield because there will be too little effort required to provide maximum brake. The power brake pedal mounts in a higher set of holes on the pedal bracket due to the additional length of the pedal. Ford actually lists four pedal brackets for Pintos: two for power brake with std or auto trans and two with manual brakes with std or auto trans. I believe a bracket for an auto with power brakes could be easily modified to accept the clutch pedal for a std trans. The brake pedal would have to be swapped for the one for std trans or the auto unit modified to work. I hope this info helps!