When doing a swap, what should be used for an alternator, the original from the car, or the one that would have gone with the donor engine?
Bear in mind the Pinto is going to be stripped to bare essentials; no stereo, DVD player, cappucino machine, fish finder, GPS, nothing.
What's the best way to go?
Thanks
Paul
Its depends on weather you are going to an EFI setup or a carb set up. An EFI setup needs at least a 100 amp Alt minimum. You need to make sure your battery stays at a healthy charge ALL THE TIME or the ECU wont work correctly.
I will be going carbureted, so perhaps I could get away with the Pinto alternator...
Thanks
Paul
Yeah, a standard 60 amp will work then
I know we are all Ford fans, but I went with a GM 1 wire alternator (internal regulator) it sure cleans up the wiring mess under the hood.and is strong enough to handle my MSD ignition. They are also reasonably priced.
My alternator just went out on my 74. Id be interested in doing this swap. Could you please explain it more. Maybe a write up of a how-to.
Thanks Matt
So, does this Chevy 1 wire spin the same counter clockwise direction as a 302? does it matter what direction a alt. spins to produce pos.+ current?
What is recommended as far as being the easiest? using the stock alt. or chevy 1 wire with a carb set up?
thanks
As a convention, with alternators, the spin direction is described while FACING the engine with the alternator installed, agreed?
Is your 302/5.0L a (relatively speaking) recent one with a serpentine belt? The older ones that I'm used to dealing with that had/have a standard or multi rib style V belt all spun clockwise. (I mostly work on 15-20+ yr. or older stuff anyway.) That gets you up through the late 80's at least, AND BY USING A NEWER MODEL YEAR FOR TROLLING THROUGH REPLACEMENT PARTS LISTINGS, you may find a cheap and much more powerful, but still Ford type alternator, which may make line up and mounting easier.
This may not need mentioning to many of us, but whatever you use, be just be SURE when you're all done that it lines up as close to possible to PERFECTLY with the other pulleys.
Use a straight edge to confirm the alignment-your eye probably isn't calibrated finely enough for doing this over any significant distance. Fairly close (anything over 1/16" out of line over less than 12" or so) ain't really good enough, because a tight belt will get worn out more quickly from the unequal pressure. Some (especially the thinner multirib type) can fray and "walk" sideways MUCH more easily when the pulleys are only "fairly close" to being in line.
I've seen a LOT of the multi rib belts come to me installed wrong with one pulley having the belt being off sideways by one or more ribs from the others, or with a TOO NARROW belt being used to compensate for misalignment of pulleys. This second instance is a BAD IDEA for several reasons, the most obvious ones being severely compromised belt strength by the reduced width, and lessened transmission capability of torque, which increases belt slippage.
I also used the GM 1 wire with the smallest pulley they had, works great. Eliminated the OEM ign box and replaced the guts of the distributer with the Pertronix module for the 302. Sure runs alot smoother and eliminated a bunch of wiring. Total cost- 2hrs. and 165.00.
Speaking of belts, here's a good way to know how tight is tight enough:
When you install any new belt, intensionally make it slightly looser than you think is proper.
Now, using a timing light, run the engine at different speeds whlie observing the belt with the timing light shining on it. If the belt is loose, you will nbe able to see the belt flutter as one speed or another.
Stop the engine and tighten the belt a little at a time, running the engine after each adjustment, doing this until the flutter just goes away. That's tight enough.
Extra pressure=extra wear to the belt and any bearings involved+wastes some engine power which is being used to overcome the EXTRA resistance of the belt to being stretched PAST the point of efficient power transmission.
P.S. You will need to retension the belt after a couple of hours of operation, by which time the belt has initially stretched. After this second tensioning, the belt will be relatively stable for a long time.