About 10 years ago I dragged the rear half of a 67 Mustang coupe home with the intention of making a trailer out of it to tow behind my 67 Fastback. My kids were young and if we went anywhere for more than a day trip, there was no cargo space in the Fastback trunk. The trailer was to provide additional cargo space. I never made the trailer. I thought about making a smoker out of it but that never happened either. I work 60-70 hours a week so my project time is limited. About 7 years ago I decided I would make a trike out of it and wanted to use a 2.3 Pinto motor as the power plant. As I've stated, I had 3 Pintos between 1983-89 and always liked them and the 2.3 engine. I looked for a Pinto and as you know, they aren't cheap and aren't plentiful. I found the 1980 orange one 5 years ago but couldn't make the deal. I waited 2 years, called again and this time I got for less than I originally offered. I dragged it home but it had to wait its turn as I had other projects in front of it. Last Fall I started doing the body work on the Mustang. It was a rust bucket and should have gone to scrap but I like to make something useful out of junk. I cut both quarters off, welded in new rear frame rails, new trunk floor, wheel houses, quarter panel skins, taillight panel. When I got the Mustang to build the trailer, I didn't want the roof. Once I started on the trike project, I realized the roof would be nice. I contacted the guy I got it from and he still had the roof. I acquired it last November, cut it down, and welded it back onto its original body. That was a chore...the lead in that area made it challenging to weld it back on. After the roof was tacked on, I put it away for the Winter and resumed in the Spring. I sold the 82 EXP I restored between 2014-2017 that my son had no interest in so it freed up floor space now it was the Pinto's turn. I got it to run, now the engine is out. Next is to fab a frame and mount the Pinto Power Plant onto the frame, then resume body work. If I can fab the frame, get the engine/tranny on the frame and get the body in epoxy primer, I will feel that I got a lot done this year. My outdoor and garage projects end in November. I am in the heating business so it's 7 days a week/70 hours until late March. Here are a few pics so you can see what I'm up to...
The driveshaft is going to be quite short...18" at the most. Does anyone have any expertise in driveshaft lengths and what are the limits in shortness? I don't want this trike to be very long so it's got to be short. The aircraft tow tractors I worked on in the Navy had very short driveshafts but I don't remember the exact length. This is going to keep me awake at night until I find out what the limits are. Any advice on the driveshaft and anything else that pertains to my project will be appreciated. I hope no one is upset that the Pinto is a doner...it's too rotted to ever see the road. Sometimes you have to know when to say that something has seen its better days. It's getting a second life in a cool project that is going to be my retirement toy. My Mustang and Harley will stay in the stable but this trike ids going to be cool!
I can't wait to see the finished product!!!
Dwayne :)
I will be sure to keep everyone update on my progress. I'll probably have a million questions as I design and build it.
Tomorrow I am planning to start fabbing the frame for my project. I have about 12" of Mustang frame from the parking brake cable mounts-forward to tie into. I plan to use the forward leaf spring eye bolt as the positioning connection and use a couple of other bolt/nut attachment points, but then weld and add extra brackets to really make a solid connection between my "new" frame and the existing, old Mustang frame. I am going to try to figure out a way to tie it rearward to the rear Mustang frame rails so it is completely solid. I will send updates and likely ask for advice.
I didn't start fabbing the frame as I said I would, but I did remove the front and rear seats, all the rodent-smelling carpet and insulation, and I was able to get the entire, intact wiring harness out from the left kick panel to the taillights. I was able to remove two of the four shifter bezel screws but will have to drill out the other two. I have the parking brake lever disconnected but haven't disconnected the cable yet. I will be cutting out the firewall, transmission hump and driveshaft tunnel to graft into what is left of the Mustang. I need to get the intact, under-dash wiring harness out next weekend. I plan to use as much of the Pinto as possible in this project. This trike is going to be my retirement toy (i'm 5-6 years away) and I want it to represent the three vehicles that meant the most to me: Mustangs (teen years to current), Pintos (Navy and college), and motorcycles (since a kid to current). This will be all three. Some day I will be too old and feeble to hold my Harley up but this trike will let me be a biker, and a Mustang and Pinto enthusiast for years to come!
My progress: I mocked up the firewall and trans hump to the Mustang body. I bolted the trans mount to the tunnel to be sure I get the shifter linkage in the right position. I removed and stripped the steering and suspension from the front frame section. I will be grafting that into the remnants of the rear Mustang frame with c-channel and 2 x 4 square tubing. I will bolt everything and tack weld, then drag it to a weld shop I use and let him weld everything solid. I have a Lincoln ST-125 wire feed that is great for bodywork and light gauge steel but I want to be sure this is solid and strong. I am going to spend part of today welding patches in the Mustang floor under rear seat section. I want to sand down the body and spray with epoxy primer over Labor Day weekend. My goals before November 1 is to get the frame buttoned up, the engine bolted back into frame, and the body in primer. Then I can put it away for the Winter. I only do oil changed and tire rotation, and emergency repairs, if needed over the Winter. I work 7 days a week and the shop becomes a storage barn in the Winter. It will come back out in the Spring and the build will resume. How do I move this thread to the "Your Project" section? I think it would be more appropriate there.
Quote from: rob289c on August 16, 2020, 04:39:55 AM
How do I move this thread to the "Your Project" section? I think it would be more appropriate there.
I took care of it for you. Have a great weekend!
Dwayne :)
Thank you for moving this thread. I participated in a Back the Blue Motorcycle Run today, then another Pinto owner stopped over to look over my parts to see what he can use. Heading back out to the shop to continue cutting/patching the rear floor area.
Quote from: rob289c on August 16, 2020, 03:23:07 PM
Thank you for moving this thread.
Glad to have been of help.
Dwayne :)
Last week I took the subframe to a sandblaster to get it blasted and epoxy primed. I hope to have it back soon so I can fab the transition from the Mustang frame to the Pinto Frame. Over the weekend I fabricated under-seat floor patches for the Mustang section and welded them in place. I welded the Pinto Parking brake mount in the Mustang's driveshaft hump. I cut the Mustang parking brake cable mounts off the frame and relocated them to the underside behind the rear seat. What was left of the cables fit perfectly to the Pinto Parking brake mechanism. I placed the rear seat and inner quarter panels in place to see what it will look and feel like. Of course I sat in it, pressed the accelerator and pretended to "drive" it! Next weekend I plan to start sanding the body with a plan to spray epoxy primer Labor Day weekend. I hope to have the subframe back by then so I can fab the transition, pin the two frame assemblies together, then take it to a welding shope and have everything welded up solidly and professionally .
I got the sub frame back from the sand blaster in epoxy. Looks good. There is some Swiss Cheese in the bottom of the lower frame rails but that will be boxed in after my transition piece from the Mustang Frame to the into sub frame is inside the rails. I got a new tank of Argon/CO2 for the welder yesterday so I will be back on it this weekend. I picked up some 80 and 400 grit sandpaper so the sanding starts this weekend with the goal of spraying the epoxy primer Labor Day weekend.
Progress: Wire wheeled, sanded, and scrubbed the last two weekends. Today I shot epoxy primer. It's sealed from the elements and I can do a little body work before I put it away for the season. The bodywork will consist of filling my welding seams and smoothing out areas that can use it. I fabricated my transition piece to get me from the Mustang frame to the Pinto sub frame and it's at the welder's shop. I hope to get it back this week so next weekend I can tie the two frames together, then take the whole assembly back to the welder to get everything tied together properly. After that I can bolt the engine back into its frame and wheel it into the corner till Spring!
Quote from: rob289c on September 06, 2020, 04:20:14 PM
... It's sealed from the elements and I can do a little body work before I put it away for the season. ...
I forgot many people close up their pools after labor day in areas like upstate NY. And here I am in the nicer area of So. Cal. (typically 80's or less in summer/ 60's at night) and it is 109 with predictions as high as 115!!!
We had several days in the 90's this Summer with essentially no rain in Jun and into July but now were into the 70's and there will be a few straggler days in the 80's but it's all downhill from here. I will close my pool next weekends. It doesn't get used much after mid-August so it's a waste of electricity and chemicals to keep it open. It's going to rain on and off all day today.y
Trike Content: It's 6:00 AM here; in a few minutes I will go out to see if the primer is full cured.
Progress: Frame transition pieces are now bolted to the Mustang frame rails. I installed the engine/tranny back into the Pinto subframe. The next step will be to line up the Mustang and Pinto subframe to determine how long I need to make the framerails to tie the transitions to the subframe. I want to be sure the hole for the shifter ends up exactly above the linkage below. I expected to get that all done this past weekend but I ended up doing bodywork on the underside of my son's car doors and that took longer than I expected. I wanted to get them sealed up before Winter or the driver's door would have had major cancer after the Winter.
Anyway, be next weekend, the two frames will be connected, engine removed, and the assembly will go to the weld shop to get everything properly welded. More to come...
It is so nice to see a project progress. While it seems to happen on all car forums, it seems more prevalent here that cars a bought, parts are purchased..., and little to nothing happens. People vanish into thin air. It makes me wonder what happened to all those Pinto's? Soldier on, I know you are seeing cold weather soon so here is hoping for an early spring.
Last night I "rearranged the furniture" to see it mocked up. I need to cut about 4" off the rear of the tranny hump to get the accelerator and brake pedals a little closer. I have a 34" inseam but it's would be tippy toes to "floor it" the way it is. There is a support brace in the hump just forward of where I originally cut it and wanted to leave it but I will remove it, modify, it and weld it in a new position just forward of where it currently resides. This is an "engineer it as you go" project. There is no template, it's not a kit, and certainly not a restoration project. It's a one-off that gives me something to think about when I wake up in the middle of the night and can't get back to sleep! I think after this coming weekend, I will have the length of the hump and frame figured out, and engine once again removed so I can get it to the weld shop to tie the two frames together.
I can't wait to see the finished product!
Dwayne :)
Yea, you and me both! :D I think this is going to be my last automotive project. I want to enjoy my toys and not just work on things! I only get weekends for my projects so they take longer than they should. I think this is going to be a cool toy and looking forward to see how it ends up. I have all kinds of ideas so we'll see what it ends up being when done.
Today I pinned the fames together. Tomorrow I will remove the engine from the chassis and get it ready to take to the weld shop. I also cut off about 6" off the driveshaft tunnel. It shortened it up a bit and allows better reach to the accelerator. I would have gotten more done today but I spent several hours helping my son install a stupid siren system in his car. It was against my better judgement but I was able to spend time with him and teach him some mechanical skills. He usually fights me on everything so since he needed my "assistance" I worked on his project instead of mine.
All loaded up on the dolly. Will transport to the weld shop on Tuesday. Hopefully it will be back by the weekend so I can once again re-install the engine in the chassis and tuck it away for the Winter. Over the Winter I need to figure out the front end. I will have to hire a custom MC builder as designing and installing it is beyond my capabilities.
After being at the weld shop for a month I finally got it home a couple of weeks ago. The Pinto and Mustang frames are married together and a caster is mounted to the crossmember so I can move it around the shop. I re-installed the engine and tranny for floor space saving purposes. It is in its Winter spot and I won't mess with it until at least April. Today I made the decision that it is not going to be a trike. Finding an appropriate motorcycle front end and then finding a shop that is willing and able to fab and mount it was going to be difficult and expensive. I have decided to keep it a four-wheeler. It will be an open-air, engine-exposed buggy. Not a trike, but still a cool project. I am going to buy a Mustang II front end kit that will provide upper and lower control arms, steering rack, tie rods, brakes, and other pieces/parts. It will be a lot cheaper than going the MC front end route. I will need to get my sway bar and strut rods back from the guy I gave my leftovers to. I don't think he will have a problem with that (I hope). I think this will be a better way to go and will ne a cool little roadster. In retrospect, I would have done things differently if I thought about going this route than making it into a trike. It wil come together more quickly this way. I will post more when I get parts or get back to work on it in the Spring.
Rob,
I knew that you were building a trike, but never seen your project until now. Your moving it to the project section helped me to discover it-😃 It is much more elaborate and bigger project than what I had pictured in mind! I am impressed! I cannot wait to see it the next time I am in the Rochester area!
Happy Motoring,
Dan
This is the kit I am going to order for my Pinto/Mustang Roadster:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-IFS-w-New-Stock-Control-Arms-Springs-Shocks-and-Spindles,35670.html (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-IFS-w-New-Stock-Control-Arms-Springs-Shocks-and-Spindles,35670.html)
There is another kit but it has 2" drop spindles. I think I am better off staying with the stock spindles. If for no other reason, I think it would be better for alignment purposes, not to mention normal ground clearance.
Has anyone else bought and/or used this kit? Was it a direct bolt on? Was it necessary to purchase anything else? I know it doesn't come with a sway bar so I will have to get my back that I gave away. The good news is I don't think the recipient had plans to use it so I think he'll give it back. It appears to be a complete kit. The one mod I will have to make is to have the rotors drilled for a 4x4.5 lug pattern. I have no plans to change the Mustang rear end to a 5-lug so I want all 4 wheels to be the same 4-lug pattern. I am going to use Ansen Sprint Slotted Mags on all 4 corners.
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=American+Racing+Authentic+Hot+Rod&wheelModel=VN69+Ansen+Sprint&wheelFinish=Polished&tab=wheels (https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=American+Racing+Authentic+Hot+Rod&wheelModel=VN69+Ansen+Sprint&wheelFinish=Polished&tab=wheels)
I am thinking 15x7 in the rear with 225 60 15 tires...any advice in the front? I am thinking a smaller, tire in the front. I don't know if the rims come in 15x6 and not sure of the tire size...maybe a 205 60 15? It would give it a little bit of a raked look.
Any feedback on my change of plans or advice? Any experience with the front suspension kit I am planning to buy? Is there any real difference between Mustang II and Pinto? The kit says it will fit an '80 Pinto. I thought the trike project would be cool, but finding someone to engineer the front was going to be a challenge and registering it in the People's Republic of NY would be even harder.
It's me again, Dan. I can understand your concern with the registration process being a native New Yorker.! If I were you, before going further with the Trike project, I would read up on not only the motorcycle and car registration laws, but those regarding one-offs, special production, and replica car registrations requirements. After reviewing each and every one of them, select one that comes the closest to your project and tailor-design your project accordingly. It will assure your ability to register and road-worthiness. I also encourage everything not to be newer than any laws or regulations concerning EPA, crash tests, and related requirements. Hence the one offs and replica regulations being your friend. Your engine, frame, vin numbers, and the like seems to be in the 60s so you should be safe. Fingers crossed!
Happy Motoring,
Dan
Thank you for the advice...I reached out to NY State DMV long before starting the project and I have all the info saved. I think it's going to be easier to register now that it is going to be a 4-wheel vehicle rather than my original plan of a 3-wheel. That would have been a bit messier. Since my last post on this project, I ended up ordering the complete Mustang II front end kit, but rather getting the one with the stamped steel control arms, I got the one with the tubular arms. It will be a bit sturdier. My only concern is it is a strutless system so I don't know how camber will be adjusted? I also order many other parts: some for the Mustang portion and some for the Pinto portion. I have received some already, with more coming. I will be able to hit the ground running as soon as Spring gets here!
Hey, Rob...I know it's only a couple weeks since you last posted, but wondered if there are any updates on your trike project? The weather has been holding up, so thought maybe you may have done something more? I cannot wait until Spring! Chuckling...
Are you getting all the parts you need, or is there something that you are looking for? Maybe we as members can pitch in the search?
Happy Motoring,
Dan
I've been collecting parts for the last few weeks but I won't be working on it until at least April, and maybe May depending on how the Winter goes. In November I rearrange my shop and everything goes into its Winter spot, not to be moved until Spring. I will attempt to attach the parts list that represents my orders and receipts to give you an idea of what's in receipt and yet to come. Green shade means it is been received. Yellow means it has been received, but not by me. I wasn't allowed to ship the header to NY State but I will have it in my possession before Spring. Unshaded means I have not yet ordered or received. I have a few more things to order so I will have plenty of material to work with once the weather breaks. The first mission will be to degrease and clean the underside of the Mustang, including the rear end and leaf springs, then spray epoxy primer and black paint. Then I can start/finish bodywork and get ready for primer and paint (frame and body). Once that is done, I can detail the engine and tranny, weld the cowl back to the firewall, and weld that assembly to the frame. Then I can start putting everything together. I have plenty of time for new ideas to pop into my head so there will be a plan. Thank you for inquiring...I won't have many updates through the Winter but I will have questions and updates on which parts I have purchased or plan to purchase.
I ordered and will soon be receiving 4 of these rims. The pic shows 5-lug but I will be getting 4--lug. I think they will look cool on my Stang-Bucket (a play on T-Bucket). I got an update on my front end kit...the BO parts will be received on 12/28 and should ship shortly thereafter.
Hi Rob,
Those wheels are similar to the ones available as factory options from Ford. I recently saw two of those original OEM wheels on Amazon priced at $160 for two. The seller did not have the other two, but in your case that's all you need. Would you like for me to locate the ad again for you?
Happy Motoring and holidays!
Dan
Thanks Dan, but I'm all set. I have received 3 of the 4 I ordered and the 4th one will be here soon. I ordered the 4x4.5 bolt pattern rather than the Pinto 4/108mm pattern as my Mustang rear axles are 4x4.5 and it is going to be a lot easier to get the 5x4.5 rotors that come with my front end kit drilled for 4x4.5 than it would be to remove the Mustang axles and have them re-drilled for the 4x108mm pattern. I want them all to be the same bolt pattern so I can rotate tires. I just got a BO notification that my front end kit still isn't complete and there is no estimated ship time. That's fine with me. I don't need it till May and they won't charge me until they ship. They can store the parts for now, rather than me storing them! I am looking forward t Spring so I can get back on this project! For now I work 7 days a week and emergency calls don't stop just because it's Christmas...
Your logic makes complete sense! For some odd reason I was thinking you were using the mechanicals from a Pinto as you parted out a Pinto for this project, although having a Mustang rear body.
Are you a firefighter or an EMT? ER doc? Regardless, thank you for your service during these trying times!
Happy Motoring,
Dan
I'm using mechanicals from both the Mustang and the Pinto. The rear half of the Mustang is where I will sit. So the body panels, seat, rear suspension, rear axle, rear brakes and, tail lights are Mustang.
I grafted the Pinto front subframe to the Mustang rear frame. So the Pinto portion is the engine, tranny, driveshaft (to be shortened), radiator, front suspension and brakes, cowl, firewall, dash and components, steering wheel and shaft, wiring harnesses, parking brake lever, and misc. other parts.
Since it's no longer going to be a trike I should inquire about changing the title of the thread. The trike idea was cool but I think it will be easier to make it a 4-wheel buggy. I'm committed now since I already bought the front end kit and 4 rims! I was out doing my oil change and tire rotation on the daily driver and spent a few minutes looking at my project wishing Spring was here!
As for my profession, I manage 4 locations for a large propane company. My entire civilian career has been in the energy and HVAC industries. This time of year we are extremely busy. I have Drivers and Techs that work all hours so when they're working, I'm working. I spen 6 days a week in the office and Sunday is on and off the computer supporting my men. I am retired from the military (23 years of Navy and Air Force), 19 of those years were Reserve and Air Guard.
I'll be 60 this coming year so a few more years of this and I'll be able to slow down a bit and do something different. Then I'll have more time for my Harley, Mustang, and the Mustang-Pinto Buggy I'm building!
I'm back...I have started back on my project. When I cut the Pinto up for my project, I cut the cowl away from the firewall...I spent a full day last weekend welding them back together. I did a hack job cutting it apart so putting it back together wasn't much fun, especially with all the seam sealer that was melting and burning! Today I was making patch panels for what was left of the floor area of the firewall. The entire floor was rotted away so I fabbed in patches. Not real pretty but will be functional. I will finish it tomorrow, then fit it to the frame and figure out how to marry it to the Mustang driveshaft tunnel. Once it is fit properly I will make some markings so I know exactly where it goes. I need to remove it, finish the metal work, then do the corrosion work, prime, paint and then re-attach permanently. I am working with junk and making it up as I go along. I'll be glad when this part of the job is over!
Glad to see that you're back at it! It's quite a project and I can't wait to see how it turns out!
Dwayne :)
I discovered that I am going to have to do some driveshaft tunnel modification on the Mustang half of the vehicle. The Pinto tranny tailshaft is in a much higher position than the Mustang. I am going to have to get the driveshaft shortened (to about 24") so I can get it mocked up then modify the tunnel. I save parts of the Pinto tunnel so I should be able to use them. Of course this means I will have to modify my seat frame so it will sit with the higher tunnel. In the meantime I will shift gears and do some body work for a change of pace. I will take and post some pictures so you can see what I'm playing with.
I was in Rochester last week, but I was not able to find time to contact you to see if I could come by to see your Trike project and other Pintos you may have. My apologies...
I will def keep you in mind when I return to Rochester in August.
Happy Motoring!
Dan
Please do...I will be going to NC Aug 18-23...otherwise I will be home. Yesterday I did my driveshaft measurements and this AM I took the driveshaft to a shop to have it shortened to 23 1/4" and have new u-joints installed. When I get it back I can modify my driveshaft tunnel. Tomorrow I am going to start some body filler work on my weld seams. I am also going to cut the roof back to about the point where the rear windows are, then cut about 6" of the leading edge of the roof and graft it on to the roof I welded on the Mustang portion. It will stiffen the leading edge up so it doesn't flap in the wind. I saw it flapping when I towed it to the weld shop last Fall. It will also make for easier ingress and egress with a shorter roof. It may ba hard to visualize but I will send pics to clear things up.
Here are some pics from today's work. I found a spot on the leading edge were the inside width is 48" and the same dimension on the roof in a sport where I could shorten it. I cut the leading edge off the front portion of the leftover Mustang roof and about a foot off the roof as it was. I then welded the support piece in place and welded the leading edge on. The entire roof is now shorter making it easier to get in and out, and the leading edge I still have more welding to do but for now it is tacked on well. After that it will be grinding, then epoxy primer, body filler on all roof weld joints and block sanding. The driveshaft should be done this week. I look forward to getting it back so I can get it and other associated parts fit properly in the chassis. I have a long way to go...
I haven't made much progress on my progress...I have been caught up in a multitude of other tasks. The two attached pics show recent work. I finally welded the leading edge of the roof on and ground the weld down. I have a little more to go, then I can clean, sand, spray more epoxy, then apply body filler to complete the roof work. The other pic is a side view to show you how it is coming along. Note the 23 1/4" driveshaft on the floor. I hope to get more done this weekend and l a lot more done before I have to stop work in November. I have too many irons in the fire...I will be happy to retire in the next few years!
I've been off the grid for a while, mainly because I didn't make much progress on my project over the Summer. I have done a few things recently. When I put the dash in place I realized I couldn't get into the "cockpit". I decided I would have to section the cowl and dash to move everything forward. I also (mistakenly) decided to narrow the dash. I cut about 3" off each end, then welded it back together. I will be relocating the headlight switch to the former windshield wiper switch position and I filled in the spots where the vents were. After sectioning the cowl, I have plenty of access so I didn't need to narrow the dash after all. Too late, and I will make it work. It cost me the better part of an afternoon. There is a 79 in a nearby junkyard that I may consider salvaging but I probably won't. The cowl sectioning consisted of cutting out the vent portion and welding it back together. You'll see from the pics that it is really narrow and provides the room I needed to get in and out of the cockpit. I am going to remove the cowl/firewall from the chassis and weld up what was left of the rotted floor. The trans hump will eventually get covered with diamond plate and will be secured to the frame. I am going to fabricate some radiator support to firewall rods like a Model A to further stiffen things up. I wish I had accomplished more over the Summer but had a lot of other priorities. I have a few weeks before it gets rolled into its Winter resting spot so I will post any further progress. Thank you for reading...
Yesterday I finished patching and stitch-welding what was left of the firewall. It looks like Frankenstein but welding patches inside and out stiffened it nicely. It was corroded and flimsy. It will be covered by diamond plate so it won't be seen. Today I sprayed two coats of epoxy primer and it is now curing. While I had primer mixed, I shot the leading edge of the roof that I welded on earlier this Spring. One more thing I may do before putting it away is to shorten the steering shaft to move the steering wheel a little more forward. That will complete the need for sectioning the dash and cowl to give me more room to enter the cockpit. I am just about done for the season, so I will probably power wash the whole unit and put it away until Spring. I hope to have more time to spend on it next year...
Thanks for sharing your updates and pictures! I will have to swing by your place to see it the next time I am in Rochester!
Happy Motoring!
Dan
This past Wednesday, on our last day of relatively warm weather, I sprayed the engine side of the firewall and underside of the trans hump gloss black. I used tractor enamel with hardener so it should be fairly durable. I let it cure until yesterday (Saturday) and reinstalled it temporarily back onto the chassis. Today I am going to temporarily mount the dash and start figuring out how I am going to shorten the steering shaft to give me more access to the cockpit without moving the steering wheel too far forward. I think I am going to eliminate the broken rag joint and use a 3/4-36 spline x 3/4 DD U-joint directly on the splined end of the steering rack and eliminate the factory u-joint and the overall 8" of round shaft that goes to the rag joint/rack end of the steering shaft. I may have to use a short section of 3/4 DD shaft stock and a coupler to get the overall length correct to allow cockpit access and put the steering wheel in a comfortable position. As I've said before, this is an "engineer it as you go" project! I had previously cut the parking brake mount assy out of the Pinto and welded it into the driveshaft tunnel of the Mustang so it is between the seats like a Pinto vs under the dash on a 67 Mustang. I installed the parking brake lever and cut the vinyl out of the old seat cover and will have the upholstery shop modify the new seat cover to make a neat access hole for the lever. I did a hack job of cutting the section out of the old, but the upholstery shop will do a much nicer, neater job with the new. I'm just trying to mock things up at this point. Today I am also going to install the trans mount bolts so the tranny isn't hanging, requiring a jack stand or blocks of wood under the tranny while in Winter storage. It is just about ready to push into the corner for Winter hibernation. Dan, you are welcome to stop by any time you are in the Rochester area. I look forward to meeting you!
I'm back!!! I started back on my project a few weeks ago. I did a little frame repair/stiffening and now I am into the bodywork faze. I'm not that good at it so I spend a lot of time applying and sanding body filler. I will take and post some pics tomorrow. I have the Mustang rear seat frames and seat covers at the upholstery shop; he said I will have it back in September. I ordered wheel adapters to get me from the Mustang II front end kit's 5x4 1/2 lug pattern to the same as the Mustang rear 4x4 1/2 lug pattern so I can use the same 4-lug rims at all four corners. The adapters also widen the front track as the Pinto/Mustang II is narrower than the Mustang rear so it will be more stable. I relocated the Mustang parking brake cable brackets from the frame rails to behind the rear seat so now the transplanted Pinto parking brake is functional. I scraped, wire wheeled, then used Simple Green and a small wire brush on the underside so it is now clean and I can epoxy and paint. I am trying to get all the frame and bodywork done so I can spray epoxy and paint, then I can start assembling the vehicle. I have the engine out and mounted on the engine stand. My plan is to remove accessories, clean, sand, prime, paint. I don't plan to do any internal engine work. I will paint the block and oil pan Ford Blue, leave the head natural, remove unnecessary emission controls, and reinstall back in the frame. I have a mid-80's T-bird valve cover, a chrome air cleaner, and a ceramic coated header to "dress things up". There will be no hood so the engine will always be on display. I need to fabricate tranny mount brackets to lower the tranny a little. The Pinto tranny position is higher than the Mustang so the 23 1/4" driveshaft is too close to the Mustang driveshaft tunnel. This project has been interesting and I need to get it done! I want to retire when the economy straightens out and this is my last automotive project. I have my '67 Mustang Fastback, my Harley, and this Pinto/Mustang buggy (no longer a trike) will be the extent of my toys. If I have any issues getting it titled, it will become my golf cart to buzz around the neighborhood! I will send progress pictures tomorrow...
Quote from: rob289c on July 23, 2022, 08:36:54 PM
I will send progress pictures tomorrow...
Welcome back! Looking forward to your pictures. Surely I'm not the only person here who has been patiently waiting to see when you were going to resume work on your project.
Dwayne :)
Here are four pics of my bodywork to date. I'm no expert but so far, so good. I did some this AM, but it started to sprinkle so I pushed it back inside and did some other chores. I am going to go back out to do more spreading and sanding. I'll be glad when this phase is complete. More rain is coming so I better get back out there. I do it outside to keep the dust out of my shop. If I can keep on the bodywork, I have the week of 8/15 off so my target would be to spray the underside, frame and body with another coat of epoxy then, and if time the frame, underside and interior black. I can do the exterior body later or next year if I run out of time. Once the frame is painted I can assemble the front suspension, do all the brakes, figure out my steering and get the engine back in.
Engine and tranny out of frame and separated. Just getting the engine mounted to the stand was a project unto itself. I had to make my own brackets. The ones that came with the stand worked fine for my 289, but no the 2300.
It looks like your bodywork is coming along well!
Dwayne :)
Thank you...I have quite a bit to go. I had to weld the roof and the leading edge of the roof on as well as the quarter panels so I have a lot of blending in to do. I had to form the body lines at the trailing edge of the roof at the top of the quarter panels. I am filling in spot weld indents and smoothing out the rear window opening. A lot of difficult to access areas. I have to keep reminding myself that the intent was never to make a perfect show car out of it, rather just save two pieces of junk that should have been scrapped long ago! During the week I won't be able to work on it and I will lose more than half my upcoming Saturday to other commitments, but should be able to spend a lot of time on Sunday. I can't wait to get this part done so I can get on to more fun parts of the project. On Friday I ordered my wheel adapters...the y are already here! Shipped from CA to NY over a weekend, standard bulk USPS. I will continue to post progress until I have to roll it into the corner this Fall. :o
Can't wait! ;D
The weekend is here...I will get to work on it tomorrow AM until about noon at which point I will have to stop and get ready for a one-year-old's birthday party (hooray). Sunday I will have until about 2:30 to play with it so I hope between those two sessions I can get a lot done and move me closer to primer and paint. I'll post an update at some point this weekend...
Have fun!
Between Saturday morning and Sunday afternoon I was able to make progress. Nothing that is readily apparent so pics aren't included, but lots of small improvements. I am taking this coming Thursday and Friday off from work so I am hoping that I can wrap up the body repair phase or get close to completion by the end of this coming weekend. I have other commitments that are going to eat into my sanding time but I should be pretty much done and ready to shoot epoxy. I may wait till Saturday August 13 as I took that next week off so I should have plenty of time to prep and spray. The car club I belong to is hosting a show on Saturday, 8/20 so Friday, 8/19 we will be setting up and wiil be working the show all day Saturday. I will continue to post progress as I make it...
Progress can be painstakingly slow if done properly, but it is STILL progress! Keep up the good work!
Dwayne :)
I thought I would have ben further along by now but I continue to mix, spread and sand body filler as often as my busy life allows. I have about 6 small trouble areas that I will try to rectify tomorrow. Then I will give the areas I did bodywork a coat of polyester putty to fill sanding scratches and other small imperfections. If all goes well, that may happen tomorrow or at worst on Friday. The car club I am a member of is hosting a car show on Saturday so I will spend part of Friday helping to set up the show field and do other last minute details and Saturday I will be at the show all day. On Sunday if all bodywork is complete, I will DA the rest of the body and scuff the frame, then blow down and clean all surfaces in preparation for primer and paint. I will be working out of town for the next two weeks starting 8/22 but will be home for the in-between weekend. I hope to epoxy prime the entire body and chassis, including the under side. I will them paint the underside, frame, and interior shell, including the interior of the trunk area with black enamel. After that, if I get a warm September weekend I will paint the body. If not, I will paint the body next Spring. In the meantime, I will remove engine accessories, sand, sandblast, clean, degrease, prime, paint. I will clean and degrease the exterior engine, paint the block and oil pan Ford Blue, keep the head natural, remove any unnecessary emission controls and vacuum hoses, re-gasket any external mating surfaces, install the header, then put the fresh-looking 2.3 back in the chassis. Then I can assemble the front suspension. By that time it will be time to push it into the corner for the Winter and resume in the Spring. I will keep you posted as I make progress.
I fixed my trouble spots but found a little more to fix. Did I mention I am sick of doing bodywork?!! I didn't get to do the polyester putty yet. Maybe tomorrow if I get back from pre-car show set up duty. I did blow down, then damp sponge the body before I rolled it back in the garage. I will get it dusty again after applying and sanding the polyester. There will still be some body imperfections, but at this point I will live with them. This was never meant to be a show car and there were a lot of compromised body panels that I had to salvage and make presentable. At least the quarters and tail light panel are new and will look decent! I did fit the rear valance panel to the body in an unconventional way that is actually better than the factory method. I am able to jury-rig and improvise to my heart's content since I am not building a concourse-correct car. If the stars align, I may be able to spray epoxy the weekend of 8/27-28. If I do, I will send pics.
***Dwayne: Can we change the Title to "Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster"? It is no longer going to be a trike***
Quote from: rob289c on August 18, 2022, 07:13:24 PM
***Dwayne: Can we change the Title to "Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster"? It is no longer going to be a trike***
A roadster it is, my friend. Happy to help!
Dwayne :)
Perfect...thank you! After my last body work session on Thursday I was going to say "good enough", but then I decided I wasn't happy with the body line at the top of the 1/4 panels so on Friday after I got back from car show set up I did a little Bondo build up so I can create a sharper line. I am about to go out and sand to see f I can shape it properly. At some point I will have to call it quits bit I want to get it as good as my limited body skills will allow. After I get it shaped I will do the polyester putty on the major body repair areas and call it good. I will blow off the dust, damp sponge again, wipe it down with solvent, then wipe any bare metal surfaces with DuPont Quick-Prep, then pray for a decently warm September weekend so I can spray epoxy and black enamel. More to come...
I spent the better part of the day creating the top ridge on both quarter panels, and blending the filler down toward the trunk opening. It came out pretty good, but it caused me to re-do areas that I had already done. I didn't get to the polyester finishing putty but will do that next weekend. I also still have to sand the cowl area. I have to sand the body filler on the cowl itself, the rounded portions at each end, and where I welded patches in to cover up where the hood hinges attached. I'm sure it will be another good day of sanding. Hopefully I can wrap up this body filler sanding mission next weekend.
That sounds like a plan! I can't wait to see this thing come together!!!
Dwayne :)
Did I mention that I got my tires mounted? After primer and black enamel on the frame, underside, rear wheel wells, cabin interior and trunk area, I will assemble the front end and bolt on the tires/wheels. 225 60 15 on 15x7 rims.
Yesterday I spread the polyester filler and today I sanded. Not sure if it made much of a difference but it sure created a lot more work! I also started sanding/shaping the cowl section. It is rounded and irregular shaped so it is going to need a lot more massaging. I will be working out of town again this week, then Labor Day weekend is a total loss to me as far as this project goes. Saturday my VFW is hosting a charity cruise in and as one of the organizers I will be there all day. Sunday is a family reunion, and Monday my wife wants me to take her to the NY State Fair. I would rather sand Bondo and I don't even like doing that! It looks like it will be the following weekend that I will get time on my project. I am getting closer to being able to spray primer and paint. I pray that the weather stays warm. The long range forecast that we get at work suggests a warmer than normal pattern through September and into October so that bodes well for my plan. Once November starts I can't work on projects...only daily driver maintenance and repairs. I will keep you posted on progress as I make it.
Sounds like a busy weekend coming up! One thing is certain: that project will be sitting there waiting for you whenever you have the time to sand. Tedious as sanding is, it makes all the difference in the world in your finished product! Keep up the good work!
Dwayne :)
I am spending every spare minute I have on this thing...I'll be happy when I can drive it around my circle. In the background I am trying to work with the Commonwealth of PA trying to get the title for the abandoned Mustang section that is making up the rear half of my project. If that doesn't pan out, I have a couple of other options to get this thing registered and on the road...
Quote from: rob289c on August 30, 2022, 06:52:00 PM
I am spending every spare minute I have on this thing...I'll be happy when I can drive it around my circle. In the background I am trying to work with the Commonwealth of PA trying to get the title for the abandoned Mustang section that is making up the rear half of my project. If that doesn't pan out, I have a couple of other options to get this thing registered and on the road...
I don't know how it works in Pennsylvania, but in Virginia, where there's a will, there's a way... although you may have to jump through numerous hoops to find it! Good luck!
Dwayne :)
No project progress this weekend. I may go out very early tomorrow (Monday) AM before I have to go to the State Fair and fill and finish a couple of tiny imperfections and spread another coat of filler on the cowl section. It won't be a lot but every little bit of progress gets me closer to the finished product. The forecast of rain tomorrow may buy me a little garage time...as much as my wife wants to go to the Fair, she likes getting wet a lot less! Forecast is for more rain in the AM and clearing in the PM...
As for getting my project titled and inspected, my goal is to get the title from PA for the Mustang portion. I want to register it as a 67 Ford: no side marker lights and no emissions. Even if they can provide me with just the VIN, I can run with that through the State of Vermont to get a Vermont Title, then get it titled in The People's Republic of NY. If that fails, The Pinto is titled in my name so I can register it as a 1980 Ford, but then when NY decides to enforce original equipment rules, I will have to incorporate side marker lights, and all 1980 emission controls which I plan to completely discard. I could go down the path of a "custom" or "homemade" car but there are way more hoops to jump through and much more scrutiny. I will prevail... 8)
Your New York weather forecast sounds just about like what we're having here in Virginia. It started raining here about 3:00 a.m. and, while it hasn't been much more than a drizzle so far, it's supposed to keep going until about midnight tonight! It would be lousy weather to be traipsing around a State Fairground! I took my twin aunts out for breakfast this morning to celebrate their 92nd birthday. Frankly, when I saw the rain this morning, I suspected they might cancel, but they didn't. I took along a big umbrella just in case. I wasn't too worried about myself, but I didn't think it would probably be a good thing for them to get drenched if a real downpour occurred while we were out. I got them fed and back home without incident, so I count that as a win. Our annual breakfast outing has been a tradition since they turned 80 back in 2010; I never dreamed we'd still be doing it twelve years later!
Dwayne :)
It's getting to be quite common for people to live to 100 and beyond.
When I was growing up, it was RARE for someone to get to 100 yrs.
My last remaining aunt is now 105!!
Quote from: caravan3921 on September 05, 2022, 02:00:11 PM
It's getting to be quite common for people to live to 100 and beyond.
When I was growing up, it was RARE for someone to get to 100 yrs.
My last remaining aunt is now 105!!
No one in my family has made it that far yet, but my paternal grandmother made it to 95. The aforementioned twins are two of her seven offspring. I do, however, know a lady in my church congregation who is 102 and still in good health. She will turn 103 in February assuming all goes well!
Dwayne :)
My mother just turned 95. We have a friend who just celebrated his 101st BD and is still mentally sharp. Another friend's motber-in-law died in July, two months short of her 110th BD. She was one of our counties first covid cases. Other than a mild fever, she was never sick. The only reason she was even diagnosed was because the nursing homes started checking for symptoms.
100 is quite a milestone...hats off to your family members that got there and beyond! Some of my relatives have had long lives...90's and a grandfather that was 101. If I make it that long, I hope I am healthy physically and mentally!
Pinto Content: I did a little sanding one evening this past week. No progress yesterday...I had VFW Officer Training from 0800-1300, then to a music festival to benefit ALS research and cure. I will be out in the garage today doing some final sanding and seam sealing, then organizing and cleaning the shop in preparation for primer/paint next weekend. I will have to cut my garage time short today as I have a 5+ hour drive this afternoon for another work week out of town. I got up at 0330 this AM to get a head start on all things that need to be done before I hit the road.
I made progress on my titling progress. While I wasn't able to get the title from the Commonwealth of PA as they only keep records for 10 years, they did send me a Vehicle Abstract for the Mustang that includes the last title holder's name and address and more importantly the VIN. That in itself will help me title the car registered. I'll buy a reproduction VIN Tag on line so it will be official!
More to come next weekend...
Rob
Yesterday (Sunday) I didn't do any final body prep. It was raining so I couldn't do it outside and I didn't want to make any more dust in the shop so I did some organizing, swept, then blew out dust with leaf blower, then power washed the floor in the area I will paint in. I did some seam sealing but need more sealer to finish. I am out of town all week so I will have to reconvene this weekend when I get home. I asked my wife not to plan any activities for me so I can at least finish body work and prep for primer on Saturday, then spray primer on Sunday. I have a lot to do it a short amount of time and weather is going to work against me in the upcoming weeks...
Quote from: rob289c on September 12, 2022, 07:29:56 PM
Yesterday (Sunday) I didn't do any final body prep. It was raining so I couldn't do it outside and I didn't want to make any more dust in the shop so I did some organizing, swept, then blew out dust with leaf blower, then power washed the floor in the area I will paint in. I did some seam sealing but need more sealer to finish. I am out of town all week so I will have to reconvene this weekend when I get home. I asked my wife not to plan any activities for me so I can at least finish body work and prep for primer on Saturday, then spray primer on Sunday. I have a lot to do it a short amount of time and weather is going to work against me in the upcoming weeks...
It sounds like you made good use of your time despite the weather! Getting all that dust out of the garage before you start spraying primer and paint is a definite must! Your schedule sounds a bit like mine except, fortunately, I do not have to travel out of town for my work. In fact, my place of employment is only four miles from my house so I can't say that I lose much time to my commute. lol My problem is that I play guitar in two bands, each of which practice weekly, and of course schedule events as they come along. That's in addition to being organist at my church, full-time caregiver to my invalid wife, and chief moderator on this forum. That's not to even mention that I also do the shopping, bill paying, laundry, cooking, cleaning, etc. because my wife cannot. I work full-time, but my 80 hours per two-week pay period is condensed into seven days: three one week and four the next rather than the more normal eight-hour shifts, five days per week. I generally get about 5 - 6 hours sleep per day. As much as I used to enjoy projects, whether they be around the house or restoring an old car, I simply can't do it anymore. There are just not enough hours in the day! I am not complaining... not at all... I am simply saying I can understand the obstacles you encounter when working on a big project! For that reason, I find your progress even more amazing! Have a safe work week!
Dwayne :)
Yep, lots of similarities to my life...I typically get to work around 0600 and leave roughly 12 hour later, M-F during Spring Summer, Fall and 0600-about 1500 on Saturdays in the Winter. 26 minute commute each day. Due to my being an "elder statesman", my travel is occasional, but is to train new managers as they get hired. I really end up working 7 days a week, but not all day on Saturdays and Sundays outside of the heating season. On one hand it can be tiring, but on the other, 100 MPH all the time keeps me going. I have other responsibilities in my VFW and car club, and do all the "man work" and some of the "woman work" (no disrespect meant) around the house. Like you, not bragging or complaining...it's just the way it is! :) I'll get home Thursday night, and Friday after work I plan to get right back on the project so I can do as much as possible over the weekend. I'm envious of your musical abilities...I took guitar lessons as a kid but never stuck with it. I am good at playing the stereo. ;D
I don't think I mentioned in my earlier post that I work the overnight shift, generally getting off at 8:00 a.m. Again, I'm not complaining; I sought that shift many years ago and have always preferred it to working during daylight hours. I have been with the same employer for 42 years, all but the first nine months of which has been night shift.
As for the guitar, I learned fairly early in life... took a few lessons around age ten, but quit when I fell in with a group of "elderly" neighborhood guys who played Bluegrass music in their spare time. Looking back on it, I have to laugh at their senior citizen status in my mind. The oldest of the bunch was approximately twenty years younger than I am today! Only one of them is still living now, and he has so much trouble with arthritis that he can no longer play. At any rate, the things I learned playing with that group were so much more valuable than anything I learned by way of formal lessons. When I was in 7th grade, my guitar was the sole musical accompaniment for our school's Christmas program! It was about that time I started applying what I had learned about the guitar to the piano, and later to organ, becoming a self-taught keyboardist. Between the ages of 12 and 16, I played organ for an outdoor worship service at a local campground every Sunday during the camping season. Between the ages of 18 and 35 I held a paid position as organist at a local church. I then took a hiatus for a number of years, moved my membership to another church and ultimately, was offered (and accepted) the organist position there 21 years ago. Still playing after all these years, and surely will so long as I'm able. Music, regardless of the genre, is as vital to my well-being as eating or sleeping. Like you, I think going "full speed ahead" is what actually keeps me going!
I'm anxious to see what progress you make on your roadster this weekend.
Dwayne :)
I got home this evening...back to my regular office Friday AM. Our company is giving us the afternoon off so I will rush home and get a few hours of work done on my project. My son mowed the lawn yesterday without me having to ask so that is one task I won't have to do. My wife asked me to go to an Oktoberfest tomorrow evening so I need to get any final sanding done, get the surfaces clean, and get the "paint booth" ready. Maybe I can spray Saturday, but I have to spray by Sunday. Pics will be posted.
My Mom is a keyboardist. She is 85 and starting to slow it down a bit but still plays a few gigs here and there.
Quote from: rob289c on September 15, 2022, 07:16:25 PM
My Mom is a keyboardist. She is 85 and starting to slow it down a bit but still plays a few gigs here and there.
Good for her! In my first paid church position, I played organ along with an older lady who played piano. We played together as a team for 13 of the 17 years I was there. She retired at age 93, which left me as a solo organist for the first time since the old campground days. My current pianist partner is male and 73 years old. He played there for about ten years before I signed on, and we have played together for 21 years now. His wife is the choir director. I think it's safe to say we all love what we do.
Dwayne :)
I'm sure the congregation appreciates you playing. My Mom fills in at two churches and sometimes is the house musician at a museum. She has cut back on her old folks home playing as she is getting to be one of them!
Pinto Content: Yesterday I did final bodywork and sanding. There are blemishes that I either couldn't get perfect or stopped trying. I have been working with distorted metal in the area where I welded the roof on so while it won't be perfect, it was never supposed to be. It would have been a lot easier if I had gone the Rat Rod route! I have scuff-sanded the entire body and frame and blown it down. I have to final sand the quarter panel extensions and the side ornaments. In a few minutes I am going to wipe it down with a damp sponge to catch any residual dust, then with degreaser. I need to be spraying epoxy primer by noon at the latest so I can give it at least an hour cure time. I need to spray black enamel on the underside, cabin interior, trunk area, and frame by early afternoon as we are going to get some rain in the PM.
I will post pics later...
This AM I did all my prep work: cleaning the surfaces, wiping down with degreaser, tack cloth, jacked it up, got the gun and paint materials ready. I didn't start spraying till about 1:30. Spraying the underside didn't work too well. I will have to paint it with a brush. No big deal; there isn't that much of an underside. I sprayed all exterior surfaces, the trunk area, frame, and cabin with Epoxy. Came out pretty good. Since I got a later than desired start and the primer isn't quite cured, I am in a waiting pattern before I can spray black enamel. It is about 5:00 now so I am hoping that by 6:30 I can do the black, then get everything cleaned and put away so I can put myself away for the night! Pics of epoxy attached. Will take pics of black later after spraying...
Two more pics after shooting epoxy. My exhaust fan pulls any airborne particles out. It's a furnace fan on low speed. I made a square to round transition and attach an Air FOrce Heater Hose to it to route it out the back door of my garage. I use blue tarps to segregate the rear 2/3 of the garage from the "paint booth".
Started shooting Black shortly after 6:30....done and cleaned up at 8:30. Long day, but progress was made! I only painted the under side of the decklid black. The top side will be body color. I only have so much of the body color and no one will see the trunk area and underside of the deck lid unless the truck is open so I didn't want to waste it. The body is going to be leftover Medium Gray Metallic from my EXP project.
Quote from: rob289c on September 18, 2022, 08:08:43 PM
Long day, but progress was made!
:o What an understatement!!! You made AMAZING progress! It looks great!
Dwayne :)
Tomorrow (Saturday) I will brush paint the underside. Red Oxide Primer first, then black enamel. That will seal up the underside and my next thing will be to start detailing the engine, engine accessories, and any other "under hood" parts. I ordered a bunch of stuff from CJ Pony Parts and Rock Auto that are starting to trickle in so I have what I need to do a lot of the remaining work. I bought an engine gasket and seal kit so I can re-gasket any external engine parts. Might as well do it now with the engine on the stand rather than later when it is in the chassis. I want to get the engine back in the frame before I put it away for the Winter. I also ordered a VIN Tag with the VIN stamped on it now that I know what the Mustang VIN is. I'll have to start working on the titling process. I need to check with the upholstery shop that has my seat frames and covers to see if he's made progress.
There is a car show that I should patronize on Saturday but in order to stay on schedule, I can't sit at a show all day just to be cordial so I may pop in as a spectator only for a few minutes and make a donation to the show organizers. I have a wedding to go to this afternoon (Friday) so that is kind of getting in my way too. Anyway, I continue to make progress but there is still a long way to go.
Sounds like another busy weekend you have lined up there! Keep us in the loop!
Dwayne :)
Today I helped my wife decorate outside for Halloween. We have a tree that gets hundreds of orange lights and takes over two hours to do, among other lights and decorations. We had good weather today nd she had an Saturday off so we did it.
This afternoon I brushed red oxide primer on the underside, including leaf springs, differential, axle housings. Tomorrow I'll brush black enamel on and use black spray paint on any of the hard to get to spots. I need to take a good look at the engine and put my game plan together for some disassembly, cleaning/degreasing, sanding wire wheeling, priming, painting. Will do some re-gasketing. I have taken deliver of mot of my recently ordered parts. I have a few more that will come this week. I am looking forward to assembly in the near future. That's when it gets exciting!
The underside is now black. It took longer than I expected but it is sealed up really well. I didn't get a chance to use the rattle can black in difficult to brush areas. What I brushed on was still wet and/or tacky and I had enough paint on my hands and arms so I figured it would be better to wait than to mess up what I had just brushed on.
More to come next weekend...
Sounds like pretty good progress under the circumstances. I'll bet your house looks neat all decorated for Halloween. My daughter-in-law handles all the outdoor decorating at our house. She hasn't started on Halloween yet, but they're going on a vacation trip next week and she says she'll do it as soon as they return.
Dwayne :)
Today I started removing components from the engine. I stared with the alternator and power steering pump and brackets. No problem with the alternator. I was able to remove the two top power steering pump bracket bolts, but the lower one broke off. I won't get into the details, but will divulge that I spent a substantial amount of time, effort and frustration getting the bracket off. The process included a hammer, angle drill, pry bar, and while I did finally get it off, I cracked the bottom of the bracket by getting overzealous with the hammer. I removed both motor mounts. The left side looks like it had been replaced at some point but the right side is defective. I have two new ones and a new tranny mount so all will be replaced. I pulled the distributor out. I removed the radiator hoses and disconnected the heater pipes. I removed the fuel pump and the guard that is over it. I removed the fan, fan spacer, and water pump pulley. I removed the timing belt cover. My next challenge is getting the crank pulley off. I got the bolt out with my impact, but when trying to pull it off with a 2-jaw puller, the inner groove started bending. I will take any advice from the experts on how to get it off without ruining the pulley. Is heat advisable? I think it might ruin the crank seal, but I need to get it off so I can replace the timing belt and clean up and paint the pulley. I plan to replace the seal anyway. I have sprayed penetrating oil where I could hoping it will loosen things up. I loosened, but didn't remove the water pump and thermostat housing bolts. Next weekend I plan to remove the intake and other fuel and emission system components. I will have to figure out what I need to keep for vacuum hoses. I want to eliminate as much as possible. I plan to remove and block off the EGR. The stock air cleaner won't be used so there are a bunch of hoses I won't need. I have a header so not cat converter will be used. There is a pic below of a component that I need help identifying. It is under the intake/carb and has a HW line that runs to or from one of the heater pipes on top of the engine. If anyone can identify it, please let me know what it is, what it does, and if it can be eliminated. Once I get more stuff off the engine I will clean it with lacquer thinner, then prime, paint, reassemble, and put it back in the chassis.
I got some good news on the title. The person I got the Mustang portion from found the title. The previous owner signed it over to him but he never registered it in his name. It is a PA title so he and I will have to go to a Notary in PA to get it in his name, then get it signed over to me. A bit of a hassle, but it's what I will have to do to get it in my name and registered in NY. I ordered and received a VIN tag that is stamped with the correct VIN so it will look official.
I'm in crunch time with a short window of opportunity to hit the goals I set for myself before calling it quits for the season. I will carry on...
Crank pulley off, Intake off, water pump off, t-stat housing off. Exh manifold bolts loose but haven't taken it off yet. Need to R&R timing belt and tensioner, but need to clean up and prime and paint the inside of the timing belt area before replacing belt as it will be left exposed. I will start degreasing the block, head, and oil pan and prepping for primer and paint. I have a Mid-80's T-bird valve cover so the one on it won't be used. Progress...
Today I removed timing belt, aux shaft sprocket, Crank sprocket (both were a PITA!), removed timing belt housing, oil pan, valve cover, and other pieces/parts. I cleaned and degreased the removed parts and hardware. Primed and painted block, oil pan, new water pump, t-stat housing, timing belt housing, timing belt cover. I have a couple of pics below. My phone wouldn't send all the pics so I can't post them all. I need to remove the cam sprocket so I can replace all three seals. I will paint the cam sprocket as it will be exposed. So far it's looking good. I need to get the rest of the pieces/parts done so I can reassemble and reinstall before month-end.
It is, indeed, looking good!!!
Dwayne :)
Thank you...I will do more this weekend.
Nice! -Love your garage, :)
Thank you. I made more progress yesterday. More cleaning, degreasing, priming, painting of parts. I replaced the crank, cam, and aux shaft seats. Started reassembly. Will do more parts prime & paint today. I will do more assembly today. I will have to cut my day short...I have a 5+ hour drive this afternoon as I will be working out of state this coming week. I will post more pics of my progress later.
My garage: it started off life as a 22.5' wide x 22' deep attached garage. When we moved here in 2003 I really wanted to live a little more in the sticks and have a 40x60 pole barn. I cam across this house in a small rural development. It is on a circle with about 40 homes and I am on the outer ring on a dep lot that backs up to a nice hedgerow. The house was 4.5 years old and almost in foreclosure. The former owner was a single mom that pretty much trashed it so with some cleaning, painting, and flooring we got a a pretty nice newer home at a bargain price. The deep lot gave me the idea that I coule add on to the garage to create my own "pole barn". So now I have a 22.5' wide by 66' deep garage. The whole setup is pretty nice. Over the years I've made the place the way I want it. In the Wintert serves as a garage to house 6 cars, 2 motorcycles, shop equipment and tools and other stuff. In the Spring, Summer, Fall it is a shop, and it also serves as a "party hall". Now I will complain...22.2' isn't wide enough. Of course the whole thing should be at least double in size!
The story of your house sounds like mine, with the exception of the deep lot. It's on the outer edge of a circle, was four years old when we bought it, but had been totally trashed by the original owner. We bought it for roughly half its appraised value at the time but there was a lot of work to do. Fortunately, it was mostly cosmetic and within my scope. I spent the first couple years whipping it into shape, and I have to say it has served us well. We will have lived here 25 years this coming December, and the house has undergone several renovations to meet our needs. My problem is that it's a large house on a small lot... no room for a garage at all. Oh well! I would have moved on years ago, but my wife was one of those kids that was uprooted and moved due to her parents' work for her entire life. She attended over a dozen different schools and never felt she got to put down any roots or form any lasting friendships. When we bought this house, she said she was never going to move again! So far, she has stuck to her guns on that attitude whenever I've mentioned the possibility, but I still hold out hope that we can move someday. I could do with a little less house and a nice garage; for me, that would be Heaven.
Dwayne :)
Over the weekend I got the timing assy put together and continued cleaning/degreasing/painting parts. I had to quit a bit early on Sunday as I had a 5-hour drive ahead of me. Had to mow the lawn/zoop up leaves, and other chores so I could be away for a week. Pics below of my progress. The valve cover got a quick spray of black paint (it was blue), then I sanded the ribs to bare aluminum. I like the look. It will be powder coated as a permanent coating. I had to trim and massage the baffle under the oil filler cap in order for the gasket surfaces to mate. It is only on temporarily so I can see how it will look. I cut the timing belt cover down so I can see the cam pully go around when running. I degreased and painted the intake with aluminum engine paint. I have more to do but it will have to wait until next weekend...
While degreasing the intake, I noticed the coolant port felt slimy so I took it to the kitchen sink and ran hot water into the port. dirty water and small bits of debris were coming out. I continued to fill and shake the intake and more and more debris loosened and came out. Eventually water started coming out of the small hose barb and more and more debris started pouring out. I kept it up for at least 10 minutes until clean water and very little debris came out. I noticed a little more external grime so after taking it out to further clean it I decided to run hot water through it again. Glad I did...large chunks had loosened came out. Classic sign of a poorly maintained cooling system. There is probably similar debris in the block's water jacket. Once it is time to run the engine again, I will run some coolant system flush through it. I am a little leery of doing that as I know some of the dislodged debris will re-lodge itself in small spaces and maybe do more harm than good. What do you guys think? I asked in a previous post what it is and what purpose does the thing in the picture serve? I am pretty sure that's where the debris was hiding before flushing the intake. What was not cooling when the small hose port was plugged? There is a 2-hose vacuum port on the opposite side from the water barb. Just trying to understand what all the vacuum -operated components do so I can decide what to keep and what I can eliminate.
I BRAZED UP THE WATER PORT ON MY INTAKE ,BOCKING IT OFF AND GOT RID OF ALL THAT EXTRA PLUMBING.MOTOR WARMS UP FASTER <SAVING FUEL>AND LOOKS A LOT CLEANER TOO.
So no overheating or no other negative effects? It is plumbed into top heater pipe that runs along side the valve cover. What is/was it's original function?
Rob, when I had my 2.3 out, I changed the freeze plugs. The one in the back of the head looked good, but when I removed it there was an area on its' backside almost completely corroded through. With your freeze plugs pulled you can reach into the block and remove a lot of gunk and material from the water jacket with your fingers and a magnet.
What is the best way to remove them? Hammer and screwdriver and pry them out? And for replacement...tap them in with a hammer? Is there a special installing tool? Do you put any sealant on the lip before installing? I've never replaced them...it was always done by the machine shop after hot-tanking.
Get an old extension or big screwdriver or punch and with a hammer hit the plug right inside the edge. It will drive the plug sideways in the hole and you can pull it out with pliers. You can put a film of sealant on the outer edge of the new plug and use a similar size socket or such to tap in the new plug.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=removing+freeze+plugs&&view=detail&mid=D1411E708B1592EB8697D1411E708B1592EB8697&&FORM=VDRVRV (https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=removing+freeze+plugs&&view=detail&mid=D1411E708B1592EB8697D1411E708B1592EB8697&&FORM=VDRVRV)
Got it...thanks!
ROB289 :NEVER HAS OVERHEATED EVEN ON THE HOTTEST DAYS.I PUT A 5/8 DIA H PIPE IN FRONT OF HEATER VALVE SO WATER CIRCULATES ALL THE TIME.OLD FORD TRUCKS HAD THEM FROM THE FACTORY.
You must not have heat in your car? I was planning to reinstall the hater box if there is room. I won't get to that until some time next year....
I HAVE HEAT ,NEW HEATER CORE TOO.THE H PIPE BYPASSES THE HEATER CORE WHEN THE HEAT IS OFF.WATER COMES OUT OF WATER PUMP AND RETURNS TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING.TURN HEAT ON AND VALVE OPENS TO CIRCULATE THRU HEATER CORE AND BACK TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING>THE H PIPE PART # IS 84515 FOUR SEASONS LINE.THIS SET UP WORKS WELL.
I looked at a few vendors and the H-Pipe is not in stock. I am far from that point in my project anyway so I will check again in the future. Thank you for providing the P/N!
HERES A PIC OF MY HEATER HOSE SET UP
Is your heating system otherwise stock or is that an aftermarket heater valve?
IT'S A STOCK HEATER VALVE
CAR HAD AC,GOT RID OF THAT, SO HEATER VALVE IS VACUUM OPERATED.NOTICE VALVE IS ON THE HOSE FROM WATER PUMP.
Mine was not AC so I don't think I have that same type of valve. When I get to that point I will investigate further and see if it is something I can easily do.
The pics below represent the progress I have made to date. I installed the fuel pump, fuel pump bracket, thermostat, motor mounts, intake, carb, distributor, power steering pump, alternator, belts. I degreased and wire brushed/wheeled the exhaust hangers, rear tie downs, tranny mounts, accelerator linkage and the line from the fuel pump to carb. I sprayed them all with rust convertor. I will spray them all black over this week, although it is supposed to be cold so I may wait until next weekend. The header, air cleaner and valve cover are just on temporarily. The header will come off before putting the engine back in the chassis. I will bolt the stock exhaust manifold and lifting ring back on for the installation. Next weekend I will change the tranny filter, then bolt the engine and tranny back together in preparation for reinstalling the assembly back in the chassis. If I have time I will assemble the front suspension, brakes, and steering. If I run out of time, I will just roll it into the corner until April/May. I have an issue with one of the motor mounts and will post my question/concerns on the "Ask the Experts" forum. Moving right along...
Today after doing a PM, Tire Rotation and Rear Brake Job on my daily driver Mazda 6, I removed the header from the 2.3 and re-installed the factory exhaust manifold and rear lifting lug. Then I removed the engine from the stand, installed the ring gear and plate, the torque converter, then bolted the engine to the tranny. Then I bolted on the starter. I removed the tranny pan and cleaned out the green oil that was in there. I had previously drained the fluid...not sure what the green stuff was. I installed a new tranny filter, then cleaned, primed and painted the tranny pan. I installed the new trans mount. Tomorrow AM the engine-trans assembly will go back in the chassis. I have to wash the two Harleys, the Mustang, and the Mazda. I need to start arranging the garage for Winter storage. I think I am going to have enough time to assemble the front suspension before the cold sets in. That will put me ahead of my goal for this year. At some point I have to run the mower around and zoop up leaves tomorrow so I may not get to the front end...I have a couple of weeks before we start mandatory Saturday work days so I think I can get it done.
Now, THAT is progress!!! I'm impressed!
Dwayne :)
A little more progress...i reinstalled the engine this morning. My goal was to get it back in before November 1 so since I met the goal a bit early, I am planning to assemble the front suspension. If I don't get to it, I made good progress. If I do, I'll be in better shape to get it done next year!
Congratulations on meeting your goal and good luck on assembling that front suspension. It would, indeed, put you in a good position for next year!
Dwayne :)
I have to say I'm envious of you guys that have all that garage space. I have a 2 car garage that between counters/workbench and laundry is more like a 1-1/2 car garage. My long unattended Sunbeam Tiger has sat on jackstands in the middle for 22 years. You sure are diligent. All the best in the completion.
Wittsend: I would love a Tiger. Poor Man's Shelby. Is yours a 260 or 289?
Today was to be the day I assembled the front suspension. It didn't go as planned. I enlarged the lower control arm mounting holes to 5/8" as the instructions stated, but that's as far as I got. I thought that if any part of this project would be a brainless, bolt together process, but I was wrong. The lower control arms do fit as I would have expected. The front tube hits the horizontal flange of the crossmember so it doesn't fit as it should. I also tried to install the steering rack. The mounting bolts are 4 1/2" long. The cross member alone is 4" and there is about 2" of the mounting bushing on the rack so the 4 1/2" bolts aren't even close. I will be calling Speedway tomorrow to talk to their Tech Dept. I need this to work. Maybe whoever picked the parts off the shelf for the kit pull incorrect parts. I was hoping to have it on 4 wheels today but it wasn't in the cards. I'll find out more tomorrow. I did put the rims and tires on the rear to see what it was going to look like. The good news it that I will have the paperwork I need to register it this week.
The Tiger is an early car, the 101st one made. Originally it was a 260 car but somewhere in life it got a 289 (5 bolt). I did a lot of work on it between 2000 (when I bought it) and 2004. Then for one reason or another I always had some other car (including my Pinto Turbo engine swap) that I felt I could get done faster and the Tiger always sat. Family obligations got in the way too. I retired in 2014 but that didn't seem to change anything. In 2019 I actually did some quarter panel repair but as winter approached I again got diverted.
I have a 1961 Corvair Lakewood station wagon. I actually have had it longer than the Tiger (since 1995). So in the winter of 2019 I decided that I would work on the Corvair ONLY IN THE WINTER and only when the days were nice. Then Covid came and the Corvair just kept rolling into Spring , Summer etc., etc. and here we are with 2023 staring us in the face and nothing done on the Tiger and the Corvair with significant done..., but still a long way to go. Such is life.
Your Tiger looks cool. Hopefully you can finish it some day and also the Corvair. I like the 1965 and up COrvairs more than the early cars but they are all cool. There s a 327-powered one that goes to a cruise in that I go to.
Sweet Tiger! My friend Randy has a super nice Alpine (the 4 cylinder version of the Tiger) and had a Tiger that came disassembled with the parts in bushel baskets! After 20+ years he finally realized that he'd never get to it, so he sent it all to a restoration shop. After they stripped the paint off, they discovered the whole bottom of the car was made of pop rivited heating duct metal. He was so disappointed he sold it off.
Update on my front suspension setback...the lower control arms that came with my kit were not meant to be used with a stock Pinto crossmember. I was crystal clear when I called to inquire about a font suspension kit that I was using a stock Pinto platform, yet the recommended the kit that I purchased. It was a $200 upgrade to the kit I originally had selected and the selling point was that the tubular arms were better than the stamped steel arms, and best of all, they eliminated the need for strut rods, providing more clearance for a header. I felt it was worth the extra $200 so that's what I got. After calling Speedway on Monday, I have a set of tubular, but stock mount lower control arms coming and should be delivered tomorrow. That will solve my problem but is costing me more $$$, engineering and work. The first step for installing the original arms was to drill out the 1/2 mounting hole to 5/8. You guessed it...the arms I now have to use use 1/2 bolts. Now I have to close the holes so I can use the 1/2" bolts. I have a plan that includes using 7/16 Grade 8 flat washers (opened up to 1/2"), welded to a 5/8 OD x 1/2 ID sleeve. The sleeve fits nicely in my enlarged mounting hole and the washer will be welded to the outside of the crossmember where the mounting bolt goes through. I will send pics after I do the work that will better explain. I have layed awake the last three nights trying to come up with a good way to return the mounting holes to 1/2" and came up with this plan. I will do it on Saturday and am confident it will work. My next challenge is that I don't see the mounting tab for the sway bar on the control arm. I have reached out to Speedway to see if they sell a bracket that I can weld to the arm. I'm pretty sure they do. I don't know why it wouldn't be included if these are supposed to be tubular, stock replacement arms. I'll find out soon enough...
Over the weekend I fabricated my bushings that returned the lower control arm mounting holes back to 1/2" after enlarging to 5/8" for the control arms I wasn't able to use. I made two trips to the hardware store to buy the bolts to mount the lower arms. I initially went to there to buy 1/2" x 5" but made a call at the line of scrimmage to buy 4 1/2" as the 5" looked too long. I should have stuck with my first idea as I went back to exchange the 4 1/2" for the 5" bolts. Today I found the original bolts that are perfectly serviceable but too late now. I also found the one steering rack mounting bolt that I was able to salvage. I had to cut the other one off as no amount of penetrating oil, heat and hammering would budge it. I need to buy another one: 5/8" x 7 1/2" or x 8", Grade 5. Today I screwed the ball joint into the right lower control arm. I had to use a 24" pipe wrench with a 2'+ pipe for extra leverage. Speedway sent me two right lower control arms so I am waiting on the left arm. I hope it will be here before Friday. I took Friday off (Vet's Day) and it will be warm enough to paint the arms and other misc parts black. Today I sprayed primer on the two upper arms and the right lower arm. I wire wheeled the sway bar and attaching brackets, and the brackets that mount the front brake hoses to the frame. I sprayed all those parts and the driveshaft with rust converter. They will get painted on Friday. By Sunday the paint will have cured so I should be able to get the front suspension assembled. I am eating the elephant one bite at a time!
I had a busy weekend doing other than Pinto/Mustang work but on Friday I painted the upper and lower control arms. Today I mounted the upper and lower control arms. I haven't installed the coil springs yet. When the lower control arm is horizontal, the compressed length of the springs are about 9". The new springs are 13.5 inches. The instructions say they need to be cut but they don't say how much to cut off. I am going to start by cutting 1/2 of a coil off and see how that sits. It could be trial and error...I don't want to cut too much off. The only weight on the front end will be the frame, bumper, headlights. There will be no hood, fenders, doors, so I won't have much weight to compress the springs. I ordered the 300 lb springs with the kit.
Take your time cutting the springs. Better to cut numerous times then to cut them too short. Remember too that you are cutting for compressed height equivalent, not free length. Lastly every time the spring gets cut it makes it stiffer. So what measurement had one effect, the next successive cuts will be somewhat different. Given the weight distribution of this configuration I would also put equivalent weight in the seats of the driver and passenger.
I don't plan to get crazy with cutting. I am going to try to get this done next weekend in between working, hanging Christmas lights and whatever other activities that present themselves. I keep saying that I should put it away for the season but I can't stop myself while I continue to make progress!
"I keep saying that I should put it away for the season but I can't stop myself while I continue to make progress! "
I hear you. I have a 61 Corvair station wagon that has sat for nearly 28 years. In the Fall of 2019 I told my wife I'm either doing something with it..., or getting rid of it. I slow down my car activity in Winter (I get cold REAL EASY). But the Winters in So. Cal. have been rather mild and dry. So, starting with the Winter of 2019 I adopted a "Winters Only" approach to working on the car (as whether allowed). Well, Covid came and I just kept going, all seasons, all years from 2019 to present. This week I hope to start the rebuilt motor, but still a lot more to do. But, yes, I know the drive to get (just) one more thing done and it just keeps rolling.
Good to hear there is progress made on the Corvair. I wish our Winters were warm enough to continue on my project. Of course my job success relies on cold weather so I can't complain about the Winter weather. Our highs are in the 30's now so it's only a matter of time that I will be forced to put it away. If I can get the front end together and on 4 wheels I'll be satisfied. I'll have to see if I can use the floor jack to compress the springs of if I have to use a spring compressor. I'll know on Saturday...
I did practically nothing on my project this weekend. I went to the office both Saturday and Sunday mornings to try to get caught up on things. The heating season is here and the ops-tempo is fast and furious. The threat of the Lake Effect Snow in Buffalo and Watertown puts panic into our customers so they all think they need propane deliveries. While Buffalo gor over 6' in some spots, we had next to nothing for measurable snow in the Rochester area. I spent Saturday and Sunday afternooons hanging the exterior Christmas lights. I did the ones that require the 28' extension ladder yesterday and the lower ones today
Pinto content: I placed the firewall/cowl in place to get it off the sawhorses it has been on for the last couple of months. I'm trying to make space for Winter parking. It isn't sitting correctly as the ratchet strap that holds the tranny tail shaft in position prevents the tranny hump from sitting down into position. It is tilting forward but I think it is coming together and looking kinda cool!
I plan to try to install the coil springs and spindles on Thanksgiving. It is supposed to be in the mid 40's. Today it was in the upper 20's.
Happy Thanksgiving All!
This morning after some food prepping and dish washing I snuck out to the garage and installed the coil springs and spindles. I cut 1/2 coil off each spring. Not sure if that was enough but I didn't want to cut off too much. I can always cut off more later. I had to go back in to help the wife so I didn't do anything else out there. Saturday is supposed to be a nice day so I will install the steering rack and tie rods and probably install the rotors, wheel bearings, calipers, sway bar and other related parts. I am going to have to heat and slightly bend the strut rods to get the bolt holes to line up at the lower control arm and get the rod to go through the frame as it should. The strut rods are from Speedway, not the factory rods. I am going to have to grind a little material off the strut rods too so they will fit with the sway bar mount in place. The mounts need a little massaging with the grinder too. I'm surprised they didn't fit out of the box. Anyway, pics attached. I haven't tightened/torqued anything yet. I am still on the front caster so no weight on the front suspension yet. Once I have weight on it I will see how the suspension sits. It looks a bit off right now and the springs look somewhat bowed so I may have to cut some more off. I am looking for anyone's opinion on this...
Yesterday I made some progress and hit a speedbump. I installed the sway bar mounts and sway bar except for attaching the end links to the lower control arms. The sway bar bracket I bought from Speedway doesn't allow for connection to the factory-style end links. I will have to fabricate something at a later date. I also mounted the caliper adapters to the spindles, but only finger-tight. Pic attached.
My speed bump is that the steering rack that came with the kit has mounting holes that are about 3/4" to narrow. My subframe has 16" on center mounting holes; the rack mounting holes are 15 1/4". I have e-mails to Speedway and am hoping that tomorrow (Monday) when they get to work they have a different rack that will mount to my factory crossmember. I am finding that even when Speedway claims that parts are for a 1974-80 Pinto or 1974-78 Mustang, what they really mean is that you must use their crossmember, not the factory crossmember.
I will update on the steering rack. In the meantime, I decided to cover it and push it into its Winter spot. I wasn't ready to put it away but will have to see what Speedway can provide.
I found an offset bushing kit that allows the 15 1/2" mount rack to mate to the 16" crossmember. I will hopefully confirm this with the Speedway Tech Support person tomorrow and order it so I can continue...
You were at it deep into the cold weather so that has to bring a degree of accomplishment . Spring will come soon enough.
We still have 70 degree days here in So. Cal. The bad news about that is mosquitos. I am SO susceptible to getting bit that I use to joke that there were only four mosquitoes in California, and they all knew where I live. Meaning, there are VERY few mosquitoes in California..., until last year. Now we have some mosquito from Asia and here it is late November and the other day I had 9 bites on my foot even though I ALWAYS wear sox and shoes. Regardless I was able to get the Corvair engine running after its refurbishment. My son was in town for Thanksgiving and shot a You Tube video of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx7eY6y1EQ0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx7eY6y1EQ0)
Congratulations on getting it running! Quite an achievement!!!
Dwayne :)
Glad to see the 'Vair runs! That will motivate you to continue on it!
I am hoping my steering rack offset bushing kit arrives today or tomorrow so I can get the rack bolted in. I am going to try to find sway bar end links that mount differently than the stock ones, utilizing the lower control arm mounting brackets I bought from Speedway. It will save me fabrication time and effort. I already bought stock end links so I would have liked to use them, but may not. If I find a suitable substitute the brand new Moog end links will become available. They are a somewhat hard to find part in case someone is looking to score a pair for use or for stock. I contacted the guy I gave my factory strut rods to and he hasn't used them so I will be going over to get them from him tomorrow. I will see if Speedway will take the ones back that I bought from them and give me store credit. In order to use them I would have to heat and bend them as the angle is different than the factory rods. I really don't want to modify them. I don't recall my old ones having any defects so if I can use them after wire-wheeling, prime/paint, I will. My weekend is a little full: Saturday 0800 haircut, 1000 funeral that is an hour away, run to get the strut rods, then home. Sunday I have a VFW gathering to attend that involves adult beverages and a dinner, so I may not get much done on the project but I will keep you apprised. I'm on borrowed time anyway so anything I get done at this point is a bonus.
Yesterday I went to visit my old Pinto...it looked pretty sad sitting in the field. Mice chewed up the rear seat bottom. The interior was in really great shape. It's a shame it has gone to waste. I was able to get what was left of the two front suspension assembles. This morning I removed the strut rods. Penetrating oil, heat, and impact got the nuts off. I had forgotten that the sway bar end link mounts were attached to the factory strut rods so now I have them back too! I should now be able to use the factory end links I bought. I had to go to a VFW function today so I had to stop playing with my Pinto stuff at 11:30 to get ready. I didn't have a chance to compare the angle of the OEM strut rods to the Speedway arms, or wire wheel them, but I will get to that. See my "treasure" in the attached pics. I made an ebay purchase today...a Mustang II grill assembly. I am going to build a nose cone around the grill. It has the light assemblies so I think the Pinto running light/blinkers will pop right in. It has the Pony and looks to be in real nice shape in the pics. I would like to find an inexpensive header panel so I don't have to build my nose from scratch but it looks like I may have to. The header panel includes the headlight surrounds which I really don't need and they are fairly expensive, or at least more expensive than I want to spend.
Last evening I removed the old bushings and washers form my re-acquired OEM strut rods and placed the old one on top of the Speedway rod to see what the difference was in the angle. I knew if was different as the Speedway arms won't line up with the frame mounts when attached to the lower control arms. The attached pic shows how much they differ. It was more than I thought it was. There was quite a bit of exfoliation corrosion under the bushing area on the OEM rods, so I have decided to bend the Speedway rods to the same angle as the OEM rods and use them rather than using the 40+ year old OEM rods. I will transfer the sway bar link brackets from the OEM to the Speedway rods so I can use the new, factory links that I already own. I have been warned that heating the rods to facilitate the bend will weaken the rod, but there isn't much stress on them and I don't think it is going to cause a catastrophe so that's how I plan to make the bend. I will bolt the two rods together so the lower control arm mounting holes are lined up, then clamp them in a vice, heat the new rod, the bend it to the same angle as the OEM rod so I can use it with my stock crossmember. As with everything with this project, I engineer it as I go. I also will be removing the steering rack mounting bushings and installing the offset bushings so I can use the 15 1/2" mount T-Bird rack on my 16" Pinto crossmember. I don't know how difficult it will be to remove them, but will find out this weekend when I go out to play in the garage.
Some progress made today...Last week I ordered and yesterday I received a Mustang II grill. I think it will look cool. I will need to fabricate a surround to make it look like it belongs on there. I mocked up the steering rack to my crossmember. Even with the offset bushing kit that was supposed to allow the 15 1`/2" on center rack to bolt to my 16" on center crossmember, it was still about 1/8" off. I had to resort to removing a little material from both mounting holes on the inside edges. It is in place but I need to buy longer mounting bolts. I bought 8" Grade 5 bolts but now know I need 9". I'll have to see if the hardware store has them that long. I also heated and bent my Speedway strut rods to match the OEM strut rod angle. I test fit them to the lower control arms and through the frame and the sway bar end links to the brackets I salvaged from the OEM strut rods. Everything seems to line up. I am only doing finger tight. I will anti-seize everything when I do the final assembly. I will do a little more tomorrow...
Yesterday (Sunday) I returned the 5/8 x 8 steering rack mounting bolts hoping to find some 5 x 9 1/2 bolts. 8" was the longest they had. I ended up ordering them on line. Not cheap...$32 including shipping. I also put together the strut rods and bushings so I could see everything in place. My next issue is figuring out a way to adapt my new, stock, aftermarket power steering hoses to the T-bird-style rack that came with my Speedway kit. The T-bird rack has o-ring to 6AN flare fittings, and the Pinto hoses are inverted flare. I don't know if there is some sort of adapter fitting or if the inverted flare can be cut off and the end flared and use a 6AM flare nut. I will post the question on the Ask the Experts forum. I will also enlist the guidance of my local hydraulic shop. I don't want to have to buy new hoses or pump.
I got good news when I opened the mailbox tonight...the transferrable registration arrived in the mail from the previous owner. In NY, vehicles older than 1973 do not get issued a title. Proof of ownership is with a transferrable registration. I can now register this thing in my name as a 1967 Ford. I plan to do that ASAP before our governor decides to make it harder to register an old vehicle.
I need to check with the upholstery shop to check on my seat frame and cover. He's had it since August. He knows I don't need it back right away, but I would like to get it back so I can check seating position and for adapting the steering wheel/shaft to the rack. I am going to have to shorten it some but until I get the seat in place I can't do anything to it.
I am pretty much done working on this thing until Spring. I covered it back up, pushed it back into the corner, and backed the Ranger up to it so it's "trapped" in its spot until April or May.
Quote from: rob289c on December 12, 2022, 07:47:39 PM
I am pretty much done working on this thing until Spring. I covered it back up, pushed it back into the corner, and backed the Ranger up to it so it's "trapped" in its spot until April or May.
Well, at least you've had a productive summer!
Dwayne :)
Yes, I did...and got a bit more done than I originally planned. I'm looking forward to Spring so I can get this thing done and drivable. When I wake up in the middle of the night I can't get back to sleep because I lay there engineering the next steps in my head. Once it's don I won't have to think about it other than to just enjoy it (I hope!). I know I will be tempted to do a few things over the Winter nd will keep y'all updated...
Here's hoping for a few warm days so you can get a good nights rest. LOL I know the feeling. Our 35 night/60 day California temps are freezing to me. How I ever survived my New Jersey childhood I don't know.
Winter is finally upon us and being in the Propane business, we pray for cold. I don't expect to do much on the project until Spring. Maybe some day I will live in a warmer climate so I can play with my cars and motorcycle for more of the year, not to mention, maybe get away from the NY politics...
I'm thinking the same, too cold for these bones in Wisconsin. I used to like the cold in my younger days. I'm eyeing up Florida myself. The hot humid days will be bad, but at least my body will function correctly lol.
Yesterday I went to the DMV and registered my project as a 1967 Mustang. I had to insure it, then register it, then cancel registration and turn in the plates (Pay $1.00 to turn in plates), then cancel the insurance and wait for my refund. It it was a 1973 or newer, I could have titled it in my name without having to insure it. Anyway, I am officially the owner and now I can put it on the road once it is roadworthy. That had been a concern and I had a backup plan but now I feel better about getting it on the road "legally". ;D Also, my steering rack bolts arrived but I haven't gone out to install them. I worked today so no garage time. I may go to the office tomorrow too; I have a project I need to complete so likely no garage time this weekend.
Well, congratulations on becoming the legal owner! Some states can make titling/registering an older car an absolute nightmare. Virginia is one of them, and put me through hell before finally titling my '79 Continental Mark V. It took almost a year from the time of purchase until I had it legally on the road. So much nonsense!
Dwayne :)
I got lucky...when I first got the back half of the Mustang the plan was to make it into a trailer to tow behind my 67 Fastback. It was to provide more cargo space for travelling when the kids were small, plus be a novelty for car shows and cruise-ins. It didn't have a title or registration but I figured it would be easy enough to register it as a homemade trailer. As time went on and I decided to make it into a drivable vehicle, I had some concerns but did research what I would have to do to register it as a homemade car in NY which I figured would involve jumping through a lot of hoops. When I got the Pinto, I titled it in my name so I could have titled this vehicle as a 1980 Ford, but pursued other options to get a title for the Mustang portion. I was able to get the vehicle abstract form the PA DMV which included the VIV and previous owner and after contacting the guy I got it from (not the last registrant), said he found the PA title. The previous registrant had passed away but had signed over the title to the other guy. I compensated him for his troubles to register it in his name, then transfer ownership to me. Long story short, I now legally own it and should have no trouble registering and getting it inspected when I get it ready for the road. The stars aligned for me... :)
Always good when a DMV story turns out right. Glad it worked out for you.
Quote from: Wittsend on December 18, 2022, 11:41:28 AM
Always good when a DMV story turns out right. Glad it worked out for you.
Ain't that the truth!?!?!? :P
Although my project is on Winter Hiatus, today I replaced the right motor mount. I purchased two mounts months ago and when I installed this Fall I found that one had an M10 stud (correct), and the other had an M11 stud (incorrect). The incorrect one, M11 - 1.75 needed a nut that I couldn't find anywhere. The mounts don't come with nuts so I couldn't use the one from the old mount. I temporarily threaded an SAE nut sloppily on to hold it in place, then ordered another so I could get one with the correct M10 stud. Now I will return the incorrect one using the more recent order...the other one was from well over 30 days ago so I couldn't return it without buying another. Thank God the recent order came with the correct stud!
So there you have it....an off-season progress report.
Quote from: rob289c on January 02, 2023, 07:03:54 PM
So there you have it....an off-season progress report.
Way to go!!!
Dwayne ;D
The upholstery shop called today. My seat is ready to pick up. I can't get to it until Saturday. I'll post pics after I get it and set it in place. Spring can't get here soon enough...for several reasons!
I picked up my seat today. Overall it came out pretty nice. The upholstery shop owner did say that the seat cover material was pretty crappy quality and wasn't completely satisfied with the way it came out. It looks fine to me and this isn't supposed to be a pristine show car anyway. He had to modify it by cutting a slit in the center for the parking brake lever to protrude through. On a Mustang, the parking brake is under the dash and pulls rearward. I cut the Pinto parking brake well out of the area between the front seats and welded it into the Mustang driveshaft tunnel between the rear seats. Since that isn't where it normally would have been, the seat cover needed a slit cut. He did a nice job of building up material around the slit to create more integrity. As a side note, it was almost impossible to find rear seat-only upholstery for a Mustang. I had no need for the front seat upholstery as there are no front seats in this ride (will be driven from the rear seat) so I didn't want to buy an entire kit. What I found wasn't high quality, and not even a proper reproduction with correct ribbing, but it was all I could find so that's what I got. Take a look below. I have the interior quarter panels but they are green and not ready to be installed. I hope Winter is over soon so I can get back on this project...
When someone restored my 73 Mach 1, they didn't use original looking covers or door cards, but they still do look nice. A guy could go broke trying to keep everything original looking. I think the seat turned out great!
Yep, thanks...good enough for me! I got the seat frames from an old, defunct junkyard and the original covers were blue and in terrible shape. The burlap was rotted and vinyl ripped and cracked. I did a little fabbing and welding on the frames and now with the new padding and seat covers, they are WAY BETTER!
I think that seat looks pretty good. From what company was the material purchased?
Dwayne :)
I can't remember who I bought it from...I bought it 2-3 years ago. I have the packing slip and/or invoice in my project folder. I can look it up. The upholstery guy was pointing out deficiencies that are noticeable if you look for them but it's good enough for this project.
No progress on my project this weekend. Single digits on Friday, below 0 Friday night and early Saturday morning. It warmed up today so I hosed out the garage floor, sprayed the salt off the cars, and hosed down the driveway. The power washer is in the basement and didn't get it out. A few more weeks of Winter and Spring will be here...
Still snowing here in Upstate NY, but Spring starts tomorrow so it's a matter of time. I plan to rearrange the shop mid to late April so I can start working on it again. I am looking forward to getting back on it and getting it running and roadworthy over the course of the Summer. I know my wife will want me to do other things, but this project is high on my list to get done. I envy those of you that have nice weather year 'round and can can play with your toys whenever you want! Hopefully soon I will be making more regular progress reports, and requests for advice and help...
Quote from: rob289c on March 19, 2023, 10:05:12 AM
Still snowing here in Upstate NY, but Spring starts tomorrow so it's a matter of time. I plan to rearrange the shop mid to late April so I can start working on it again. I am looking forward to getting back on it and getting it running and roadworthy over the course of the Summer. I know my wife will want me to do other things, but this project is high on my list to get done. I envy those of you that have nice weather year 'round and can can play with your toys whenever you want! Hopefully soon I will be making more regular progress reports, and requests for advice and help...
Looking forward to it!!!
Dwayne :)
I finally spent a little time on my project after a long Winter! I didn't do much but it's the first progress since November unless you count replacing the right side motor mount in January and getting the car registered in my name in November or December.
So today my progress was to permanently mount the steering rack. I won't re-hash all the details but late last Fall I had to order longer mounting bolts as the T-Bird rack requires spacers between the rack and crossmember. By the time they came in I had already pushed the car into its Winter spot. I had to cut about 3/4" off the right side bolt as it would have hit the bellhousing by the starter.
Next on the list is routing and installing the power steering hoses. Fair warning...I may be asking for guidance in routing them. I can't remember how they were routed when I disassembled the car. Something that has to be done first is to get the hose ends at the rack end cut off and converted to AN-6 flare (female). The originals are o-ring bubble flare and the T-bird rack has flare adapters. I don't want to buy hoses, pump or rack so the easiest thing to do is get the hose ends modified. Hopefully the local hydraulic shop can do it. The former shop owner (retired) says they can do it.
When I go to install, I will likely need guidance on hose routing. I'm glad to be back on it. I hope to make good progress this Summer.
Quote from: rob289c on May 07, 2023, 05:47:02 PM
I'm glad to be back on it. I hope to make good progress this Summer.
I'm glad to see you back at work on it as well, and I share your hope for making good progress!
Dwayne :)
Yesterday I dropped off my power steering lines and today I picked them up. Flare ends were installed at the rack end, just like I needed! I loosely fit them to the rack and the pressure line to the pump and the return to where the cooler will mount. The routing seems odd. the pressure line essentially goes vertical from the rack, then to the left, then turns inboard to the pump. I don't remember how they ran when I disassembled the car so maybe they are correct. Since there is no inner fender to attach them to, it may make them look like they are routed incorrectly. As long as they don't leak or impinge on anything else, I will be pleased. I don't think I will get much time on it this weekend. I have some other must do chores on Saturday and Sunday will be devoted to Mother's Day: Mom, Wife, and Mother In Law.
Quote from: rob289c on May 10, 2023, 07:33:04 PM
... and Sunday will be devoted to Mother's Day: Mom, Wife, and Mother In Law.
Yea, that is one day you don't want to mess up. It could affect your car hobby for the rest of your life!
I JUST REPLACED THE WHOLE STEERING SYSTEM ON MINE. `NEW ' RACK , PUMP AND ALL HOSES AND OUTER TIE RODS.THE OLD RACK FELL RIGHT OUT BUT THE NEW RACK WOULD NOT GO IN UNTIL I RAISED MOTOR UP .THE BODY WAS CONSIDERABLY LARGER DIAMETER.I MADE A BLEED TOOL OUT OF A 2 INCH RUBBER FREEZE PLUG ``PICTURED ''. PURGED ALL THE AIR OUT WITH MY VACUUM PUMP AT 45 LBS,CYCLED THE WHEEL A COUPLE TIMES,WORKS JUST PERFECT.DRIVES GREAT!
Glad it went off without a hitch. Are all your new steering parts "stock" Pinto or T-Bird or other "kit" components? Nothing on mine seemed to be bolt-in ready.
THEY ARE ALL STOCK REPLACEMENT PARTS ,THE NEW RACK FITS PINTOS & MUSTANG IIS WITH 1 3/4 INPUT SHAFT LGTH.
Today I decided to change the rear brakes on my project. I purchased the parts months ago. Remember, the rear is a 6 cyl 67 Mustang with drum brakes. The car must have had a brake job not long before it was put out to pasture. The hardware actually looks good and the linings on the shoes are quite thick. The linings were bonded, not riveted and have separated from the shoes so they are getting replaced. In addition to the shoes, I am replacing the wheel cylinders. That is where a problem surfaced. Since the front brakes are Pinto disc, I bought rear wheel cylinders for a front disc/rear drum Mustang. Of course, they don't fit. I should have bought wheel cylinders for a front and rear drum Mustang. I ordered them today. I replaced the left side shoes and cleaned everything up. I will have to take them back apart when I replace the wheel cylinders. While I had the drums off, I wire wheeled, primed and painted them silver. They look nice. I also replaced the rear brake hose. I'll have to finish the job next weekend.
Tomorrow I will be changing the Harley oil and primary lube. Weed eat and lawn mow. A few other chores and a party to attend. I have a Veterans MC run on Monday. Probably won't get much more done on the project this weekend.
I hope y'all enjoy the holiday weekend and remember those that gave all for our freedom.
I catch a lot of military shows on Smithsonian Channel. As I get old it makes me grateful that I was never called to fight. So many died young. My older brother did two tours of duty in Vietnam. One with sentry dogs and one on river boat patrol. Thankfully he made it back and also survived a career as a Federal Agent (he was Military Police in the Army). Both the draft and the Vietnam war ended just before I graduated HS in 1975. I had considered the military given the peacetime aspects but I had to have surgery right out of high school due to a track injury and my life took its own course from there.
I'm glad your brother made it back. I have a high level of respect for Viet Nam Vets. My war (Desert Storm) was relatively easy. I did 6 years Nave and 17 years Air National Guard. Overall it was a good career as an Aerospace Ground Equipment Technician. Met good people and went to cool places. Learned god technical and leadership skills.
Progress today: I removed the rear axle cover, drained the old gear oil, cleaned out the housing and cover. Cleaned both mating surfaces. Primed, then painted the cover and bolt heads silver. Tomorrow I will install the cover with new gasket and fill with 75w90 synthetic lube. This was done in between the oil change, tire rotation and inspection of my Mazda6 daily driver and mowing the lawn.
I also started working on getting the firewall and transmission hump in place. I have it "shimmed" with pieces of wood and steel to get it it the correct position. I took measurements at key places and I think I have it where it needs to be.
Tomorrow I'm going to have to do some metal fab, welding and bolting in place. I need to fabricate radiator support rods to tie the radiator support to the firewall. Then I need to tie the rear of the transmission hump to the forward section of the driveshaft tunnel. At that point the cockpit should be fairly solid.
I will do this in between doing the oil change, tire rotation, and general maintenance on my Ranger. Another full day in the garage.
I didn't do as much on my project as I originally planned. I did install the rear axle cover along with the original axle tag. It is a 2.83:1 ratio...I wish it was at least 3.25 or 3.50 but it is what it is. I filled with lube and reinstalled the 23 1/4" driveshaft. It's more like a propeller shaft. I put the tranny in neutral and found that with the rear wheels off the ground, I can spin the driveshaft in the forward motion but can't in the reverse motion. Is that normal? I did push the vehicle rearward but it was much more difficult than without the driveshaft in place. The front is rolling on a 6" caster so maybe it would be easier if on four regular sized tires? I check my firewall position and trimmed one of the shims but didn't do any welding. That will have to wait till next weekend.
I did do the PM on my Ranger. It is rarely driven so a few years have elapsed since the last PM. It got oil change, greased outer tie rods, lower ball joints, and rear driveshaft u-joints. I lowered the spare tire and inflated. The spare tire carriers can seize up if not exercised periodically. The underside of the bed is pretty rotted due to NY Winters. I will have to find a good used bed or make it into a flatbed. Otherwise it's a pretty good 20-year old truck. I have a 6 1/2' plow on it so it is useful when we get heave snow, or for returning bottles and cans, getting mulch, taking stuff to the scrap yard, etc.
More next weekend...
I made pretty good progress Saturday and today. The Floor of my donor Pinto was all but gone right up into where the firewall met the frame. When I disassembled, there was essentially nothing left so I had to build it with scrap sheet metal. I fabbed and welded off the frame and didn't get it perfect. It didn't sit on the frame as it did from the factory. I had to put spacers between the firewall "floor" and the frame so it would sit in position. The right side was off a lot more than the left side. I welded nuts to the underside of the spacers so I can bolt the firewall in place. I've got everything in place and it's solid! I do need to remove the assembly so I can weld everything up good and solid. That will be next Saturday's project. Some parts are just tacked in place due to access. That was yesterday's project. This afternoon I fabbed and installed radiator support rods. It helped triangulate and stiffen the cowl and firewall. I am going to have to remove the whole assembly and do some more body/prime/paint work. I'm glad this part is behind me. I have spent considerable time trying to figure out how I was going to get the assembly in the proper position and make it solid so now I can move on to other project needs.
I received the correct rear wheel cylinders but didn't get around to installing them or the right side brake shoes. That will be for another day. Next Sunday is Father's Day and I attend a car show in my home town so I will get done what I can on Saturday but will make no progress on Sunday.
It's coming along nicely!
Dwayne :)
Every bit I do gets me closer to completion. I'll get some done on Saturday but nothing on Sunday (Father's Day). I think I will finish he rear brakes and put off the cowl bodywork for another weekend when I get both days to work on it.
Some, but not much progress: I removed the firewall and trans hump assembly so I could gain access to weld my frame spacers properly. The first pic shows that the right side needed taller spacers than the left, Two attaching points on the left side didn't need spacers at all. I drilled holes in the frame large enough to put nuts down into the frame and welded them in place. I need to prime and paint to prevent corrosion. I also tack welded a piece of the driveshaft tunnel back in place. I had previously cut it out as the driveshaft was hitting the tunnel. I thought cutting the forward section would give me the clearance but it didn't. When I have the engine and tranny up into the correct "Pinto" position, it sits too high. I creates to steep of a driveshaft angle and the forward end of the driveshaft hits the tunnel. The fix is to build lowering brackets so the tranny tail shaft is angled downward. I haven't done this yet but it is on the docket for a near future project. With some engines the rearward drop could cause oil pooling under the valve cover but the is an oil return at the rear of the head in the 2.3. I know it's not ideal but I don't have a lot of choice and this is not going to be a race car, or a daily driver so it will be fine. I need to test fit the seat to see if I need to trim off the bracket I had previously welded onto the driveshaft tunnel. I didn't get to the rear brakes. That will have to wait.
I did a lot of yardwork today. I trimmed hedges, bushes, the entire back hedgerow. I weed whacked and mowed. I did some weeding and mulching. Tomorrow I will be at a 600-700 car car show with my Mustang. I have about 500 fliers to pass out for my club's August show. No project progress tomorrow. Happy Father's Day to the Fathers out there and to the rest, I hop you celebrate a Father or at least have a great Sunday!
What you are displaying, and I have found to be true is to just keep going. Even if it is only little things. So, often people start a project..., but never finish it. While doing my Corvair wagon project there are days when I ask myself, "Why did I get involved with this???" But then I'll go out and do a little something and the next time it gets easier to do 'a little something more.'
If it is any inspiration I got my homemade floor replacements finished and a fair portion of the interior done. Keep at it, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I can't quit now! There is light at the end of the tunnel and I want to drive this thing. Even if it becomes my neighborhood "golf cart" I ned to get it to completion/. I think I'm in Year 4 with it. The Mustang in the previous pics was a 14 year project!
Great advice!
Dwayne :)
Progress today: Primed and painted the firewall brackets that I welded to the frame last weekend. Difficult to see in the pic as it is all black. Painted the transmission dipstick tube black and the handle of the dipstick red. Spent the bulk of the day applying and sanding body filler on the cowl. I'm just not that good at it so it takes multiple applications and sanding effort. I got it pretty good. There are a couple of spots that aren't right that I will attack during the next bodywork session.
It was supposed to rain today. I was doing the bodywork in the driveway and expected to have to move the firewall/cowl/trans hump inside when it did and I planned to finish my rear brake job. Since it didn't rain I stayed on the bodywork mission and didn't do anything on the brakes. Maybe tomorrow. I ordered the rear brake lines from CJ Pony Parts earlier in the week and they are due to arrive on Tuesday They will be installed next week. I also figured out how I am going to build the transmission mount lowering blocks. I cut some 2x2 square tube into appropriate length sections and will weld tabs to them. That will be a future project and pic.
Next weekend I have to sand/prime/paint my son's (really my) Impala front clip. It is a black car but has a red front bumper and white hood and fenders due to a deer hit. We are going to paint with black Rustoleum. I will use hardner and it will shine nicely when done. It will look better than it does today. With 280k miles it is far from a show car. That is going to cost me time on my project but it has to be done...
I will report any progress I make tomorrow.
I did a few things to my buggy today. I installed the transmission dipstick. I finished the rear brake job. That included new shoes and wheel cylinder and painted drums. I also mocked up the dash and dash pad to the firewall/cowl assembly. I re-mounted the assembly back on the frame so I could see what is is going to look like. I made a mistake a while back (2 years ago?) when I narrowed the width of the dash. I thought it was going to be necessary, but found out it isn't. I am going to have to do a little more fab work to fill in the ends to get it back to proper width. I think I am going to modify it to house small front speakers. I'll make a silk purse out of a sow's ear (old saying). Anyway, it is coming along. Lots more to do but it is taking shape. Another post coming...
I decided to see how it was going to look.
I forgot this one...
The Dash, Dash Pad, and inner rear quarters are going to be black. The orange and green are going away! I've got a lot left to do but mocking it up to see how it looks is motivating. Everything is an engineering work-around. It's "figure it out as you go".
Depending on how my Impala Paint job goes next weekend, I may try to get this buggy on four wheels. I'll get it off the front caster. I am going to have top figure out how to shorten the steering column shaft and get a universal of some sort.
I totally agree that the mock-up would be motivating. I've enjoyed watching this project progress.
Dwayne :)
I'm a little bummed that I have to do the Impala paint job. It's going to tie up portions of my Saturday, Sunday, and Tuesday. (Monday I work and it will be the day I let the primer cure). It's a small job (only the front clip) but it is going to chew up time that could be spent on my project or other tasks.
Anyway, some small project tasks I will attempt over the weekend are to fab and install my new transmission lowering blocks. Due to driveshaft interference issues I had to drop the tranny a couple of inches. All it really did is to allow the engine to tilt rearward a bit so I need to fab pieces that will allow me to attach the trans mount to the mounting points in the transmission hump. The other small tasks I can complete are to install the rear brake lines and mount the rear axle vent hose.
Since I will be spraying primer and black enamel I am going to remove the strut rods and brake caliper adapters and spray them while doing the Impala. They are uncoated and I don't want them corroding. The steering knuckles are also uncoated but I am not going to remove the coil springs and control arms to get them out. I think trying to spray them with the gun will be a challenge so I will mask and carefully prime/paint with rattle cans.
Of course, removing and painting the strut rods and caliper adapters will prevent me from getting the thing on four wheels but that can wait till the following weekend. I want to get it on 4 wheels to put some weight on the coil springs so they can settle into their "normal" position.
Another task I will start figuring out is how to un-do my mistake of narrowing the width of my dash. I never should have done it but I can't turn back the hands of time. It will be a little cutting, metal fab, welding, and body filler work. I hate fixing mistakes but I will get through this.
In case I don't post anymore this weekend, a Happy and safe 4th to all!
Rob
Last weekend my focus was the Impala paint job so I didn't do much (really nothing) on my project. With the Impala paint behind me, I made good progress on my Pinto-Mustang Roadster this weekend. Yesterday (Saturday} I fabricated, test fit, welded, and painted my transmission lowering mounts. I used 1 1/2" square tubing and 1" flat stock. They fit perfectly and will do the job is intended. Today I assembled the front end. I had fit everything last Fall and left everything finger tight. Today I torqued the T-bolts that hold the upper control arms in place, torqued the upper and lower ball jpoints, re-installed the strut rods, sway bar links, and caliper brackets (all painted last weekend with the Impala). I also packed the wheel bearings and installed the rotors. I installed the front shocks. Earlier in the week I cut about 24" out of the center of the '67 Mustang front bumper and welded it together in an area that won't be seen. I will mount that at a later date. I test fit the steering column. I think it is going to work just fine. I am going to have to get a u-joint to adapt the rack to the column. I may have to get a section of Double D shaft and adapt a bit.
Next weekend I need to install the front wheel spacers/adapters so I can install the 4-lug front rims. It will then be on four tires so the front suspension can settle. I hope I don't have to disassemble it and cut more off the coil springs. I think it's going to be good. I need to keep after this so I can get it done or almost done this Summer. I still have to do some metal work and body work on the dash, then some seal sealer, then more primer and paint work. I'm getting there...
Yesterday I got it on 4 wheels and removed the caster. I had to use wheel adapters to get from the 5 lug 4.5 hub/rotors to the 4 lug 4.5 rims I am using. They are two piece adapters, I had to cut about 1/4" off the hub studs so the two halves would mate properly. They widened the front track a bit but from what I have read, it should offer more stability in turns which is good considering the short wheelbase. I bought 225 60-15 tires for all four corners. In retrospect I should have bought a smaller, narrower tire for the front. My thought was that with all 4 the same, I can rotate properly for maximum tire life. I don't think this will get many miles and it would look better with smaller, narrower tires up front. Let me know what you think. Anyway, I loosened the upper control arm pass through nuts and the lower control arm mounting bolts and bounced the suspension several times as advised in the kit. I will torque to spec this AM when I get out in the shop.
I also plumbed in the rear brake lines and secured the rear axle vent hose through the grommet that routes and terminates the end into the frame.
I don't know what's next. I have a abbreviated garage day today. We are hosting my father in law's birthday party so I can't get into anything too deep or too dirty. I may test fit and fab mounting brackets for the grill. It's starting to look cool so I want to see it in a more "finished" state. I need to get the steering shaft universal joint. I think I can use a 3/4-36 end at the rack input end and a weld-on 3/4 round after I cut the original Pinto rag joint mount and get it to the correct length. I may mess with that a bit too.
I will continue to report progress...
All I got done today was to torque the control arm mounting hardware and the steering rack mounting bolts. I test fit the steering wheel/column and realized that even after removing the factory u-joint and 3/4 round shaft, I may have to cut it even shorter. I didn't have time to mess with it but will have to put my engineering cap on to figure out how to connect the shaft to the rack, but also how to mount the column to the dash. I also have to re-engineer the way the brake pedal assemble mounts under the dash. I modified the dash and cowl so I have less room than a stock Pinto. Where there's a will, there's a way...
I think the next mission will be to mount the brake pedal assembly, mainly so I can secure the steering column in place so I can figure out what I'll need to connect the shaft to the steering rack input. I need to see if the u-joint will have to be 3/4 round or 3/4 double D at the column shaft end. I was wracking my brain on how the column was mounted and was looking through all my Pinto parts and didn't find what I was looking for. Finally I looked at the brake pedal assy and saw that it is what the steering column mounts to. I will try to mock up whatever I can under the dash so I can figure out how all that will go together and see what I have to modify to make it all work with the narrowed cowl and dash. More to come...
Of course, nothing on this project is cut and dry or easy. Since I removed 8" from the center of the cowl and 3" out of the center of the dash, the brake pedal mount didn't fit and impinged on other under dash components. I had to cut the mount to get the brake pedal up and in place. I have a little more trimming to do on it but it all has to come back out anyway so I will do it later. The next issue is the brake pedal mount is also the steering column mount so now the mounting points on the column are in the "wrong" spots and since the brake pedal mount has been modified (cut), I have to engineer a way to mount the steering column. I spent time yesterday disassembling the column and brainstormed a way to modify the tube to move the mounting points up the shaft closer to the steering wheel to figure a way to make the mounting point not impinge on the brake pedal travel. It is going to involve cutting a section out of the steering column tube then re-welding. I need to figure out a way to secure the column it the proper position I am going to have to cut a section out of the steering shaft but not going to do that until after I receive my u-joint and mount it on the steering rack input. I will use my best effort to measure and hopefully not mess this up.
I did make some other progress yesterday. I installed the rear shocks. I installed the front brake hoses. They are 18" and another 4" of length would have been nice. I'll have t see how it works and will change out if necessary. I wanted to install the rear section of exhaust, but unfortunately, the single exhaust I removed from my Mustang years ago was from a V8 and the single exhaust intermediate travels down the left side of the car and I need it to travel down the right side of the car. I'll get that figured out.
Heading out to the shop now. Hopefully I can report success on the steering column project.
Yesterday (Sunday) I performed surgery on the steering column. I cut 5" out of the middle of the steering column tube to account for the 8" I cut out of the cowl. I did this in order to move the column mounts closer to the steering wheel. I had to weld the two parts together, then grind smooth and prime/paint. I had to section it in the center has the lower end of the tube has the steering shaft bearing and has dimples that hold the lower mount in place. It's hard to describe if you haven't gotten up close and personal with your steering column. Anyway, I think what I did will provide me with the clearance I need. I received my u-joint so now I need to attach the u-joint to the steering tack input, then position the steering wheel where I can comfortable reach it while still being able to get in and out of the cockpit, then weld the shaft and u-joint together. Again hard to describe if you aren't here to see it. This coming weekend I will test fit it and figure out how I am going to secure the column into its position.
It's been a month since I last posted, mainly because the progress I've made on my project has been hard to quantify, but also because of lack of activity on the site. I'm happy to see that there are some recent posts, so I decided to update you on my progress. I have been working to mount the steering column. I ran the brake lines but the long one from the proportioning valve/distribution block to the rear. Two years ago I cut about 3" out of each end of the dash, thinking I had to narrow everything but realized it wasn't necessary. After realizing my mistake I have dreaded the reconstruction but I did it last week. Luckily I saved the steel I had cut out...I must have known I might need it! I put tiger hair over the seams and roughly sanded/shaped it. Next will be regular body filler to hide my scabbed work. It will look decent...I wish I hadn't cut it apart! I also took 3" out of the top of the dash and welded it together. That will also get some additional body treatment. I have struggled supporting the steering column. When I narrowed the cowl I lost some of the under dash space where the brake pedal mount was also the steering column mount. I had to modify (cut) the mount, then put a spacer between the master cylinder and firewall to get the right brake pedal height. I fabbed a bracket and used some threaded rod for the forward steering column mount, but I need to come up with another way to reinforce the setup at the rearward mounts. It will come to me one of these nights that I can't sleep! As you've heard me say before, everything about this project is an engineering (and sometimes re-engineering) feat. Everything I am doing will have to come back apart so I can remove the firewall/cowl/trans hump so I can seam seal,, then prime and paint again. I'll be glad when it is done.
Good to see you making progress. Yes, I thought the site had seen its last post. It was THREE WEEKS between posts. I've often contrasted this site with the Corvair site I'm on. Both the Pinto and the Corvair have similar build numbers over same number of (nine) years. Yet here we had one post in three weeks. On the Corvair site we get about three posts in 15 minutes. And the irony is this is the ONLY Pinto site. Corvairs have two large sites and a number of lesser sites. If this site ever folds (hope it doesn't) I hope they offer and the Mustang II site accepts the historic posts from here. After all the Mustang II and the Pinto share a common platform.
I've also had to fiddle the steering column. I used the tilt column from my donor Turbo Coupe. It actually fit rather well but the adaptation of the column to rack was a bit of work. I found a more appropriate joint in the wrecking yard (newer Mustang) but had to hand grind the mating ends to fit. It will be interesting to see the final product. Hope you can post a video to YT showing it driving around.
If I can get sufficient time on this I may be able to drive it around my circle before I put it away for the Winter. It won't be painted till Spring but I may be able to get it running, rolling, and stopping in the next couple of months. I have been working out of town and out of state at times so it's hard to stay on it for any duration. My issues with my steering column are related to my sectioning (narrowing) the cowl and dash and losing that under dash space. I had to shorted the steering shaft and the column is going to be a bit to the right so the ignition switch isn't in the way of the instrument cluster and dash. I think I can "mask" it to make it look presentable. Also, the position has to allow me to get in and out of the cockpit but not be so far forward that it's a long reach for the steering wheel. ANyway, it has been quite a project...:)
Today I acquired a Mustang II header panel. I am going to mount it like a nose cone and build a shroud around it to blend it into the radiator support. I already had a grill that included the running lights and pony and will use them instead of what came with this assembly. It is in better shape. This one appears to have been from a Cobra II and the Cobra emblem is missing. The grill and running lights have some damage. There is also a crack on the lower part but I can repair it and it will be more than suitable for my application. I am likely going to cut the headlight sections off and use what is known as Dietz Style headlamps instead to keep everything narrower. I'm not 100% sure on that but I don't want the nose to be as wide as it would be with the factory headlights. Pic attached and just sitting on the bumper mounts for a "what will it look like?" shot. Any thoughts on this?
I think that will provide good contrast to the 1967 Mustang styling at the rear.
Dwayne :)
Yes, it reinforces the fact that it is a Mustang coming toward you! I thought about a '67 grill, then an '05-'09 grill, then I remembered the under-appreciated cousin, Mustang II and decided that would provide a better fit and the look I was after. The header panels are outrageously priced on e-bay; I was fortunate to find this one locally from a guy I have met at car shows. He has a '77 Mustang II Hatchback and he had two of them. I was able to buy the one in worse shape for a fair price so I'm happy. I'll have to do some fab work to mount it, then decide how I want to blend the panel into the radiator support. I will be out of the garage soon to make a little more progress on the dash. The sooner I can get everything mocked up and fitting correctly, the sooner I can take it all apart so I can get the firewall sealed up and another prime/paint session, then reinstall.
Yesterday I did some Bondo work on my dash. I think it will look OK after my cutting and welding surgery. I wish I had never sectioned it but there is no going back. I think I am going to cut the Mustang II header panel at the green masking tape then blend it into the radiator support. I am going to try to attach a screen shot of the Dietz-style headlamps I am planning to use.
Looks like it's coming right along nicely!
Dwayne :)
I am going to try to make some progress over the next few days but have been working out of town quite a bit. Fall and then Winter will be here soon so that will put an end to my progress. I have to make hay while the sun shines! I hope to have some more to report over the next few days...
Unrelated content: yesterday I attended the Vintage Grand Prix festivities in Watkins Glen NY. The Mustang Club I was a member of when we lived in PA had been invited to display cars at a former Ford Dealership on the main drag so I joined them. I had my '67 on display amongst the Shelbys, Cobras, late models, and other fine rides. Mine got a lot of attention! It's the sliver fastback in the first attached pic. It was quite an event. There were various road rallies and a parade of cars throughout the day. Corvette was the featured car for this year but there was a variety from Corvettes to MGs, Porsches, Mustangs, Lotus, Ferraris, American Muscle, etc, etc. It's a festival for all car enthusiasts. Unfortunately I didn't see any Pintos or Mustang IIs...
That's a pretty sharp looking '67 you've got there! Looks like a fun event!
Dwayne :)
I've had the 67 for about 29 years...it was a special order car (Silver Frost paint), and otherwise nicely optioned for 1967. I "unprofessionally" restored it starting in the Spring of 1995 and it took me until 2008 to drive it again. I did everything myself except tranny rebuild and final body prep and paint. All done in between building a career, part time military, raising babies/children, and other life duties. Kinda like my current project. I do so many other things that get in the way of my auto projects...
Thank you for the compliment on my car and yes, it was a fun event.
Very little progress this past weekend. I had good intentions, but...on Saturday I decided to weed my garden. I had a full wheelbarrow and went out to the hedgerow to my dumping spot. Upon exiting I got attacked by a swarm of yellow jackets. I took off running with them chasing. I began beating them as much as I could. I was wearing shorts so my left leg and arm got the worst of it with some on the right leg. They were down in my left boot, in my left glove and anywhere else they could torture me! In the process of beating them off, I reinjured my left arm to a point that I am in more pain than I had with the original injury on July 23. I tore my left distal bicep tendon. It didn't detach but slight tear. Anyway, between the sore arm and the swollen arm and leg, I laid low and did nothing on my project. Today I removed the brace that connects the top and bottom of the radiator support and removed the grill and brackets from the header panel I got over Labor Day weekend so I can start planning how I am going to mount it. That's it...nothing else done. I will be heading to Ocean City MD tomorrow AM for a few days of R&R...more for my wife than me. I have used vacation days to work on my project and other things for me so I figured I better do something for her before I have to hear about it! I won't get to work on it again until 9/23...
Wow, sounds like a real world version of those Dodge Hornet TV Ads! Hope you recover soon.
Years ago I lifted up a loosely fitting rear seat in one of my old, long sitting cars as I was curious how far rust extended. I plunged my hand between the two seat halves and yanked the bottom section upward. To my immediate horror was a Opossum with its gnarly teeth inches from where I had just plunged my hand between the seats. I've been a suburban boy all my life and we never had pets. So, "Critters" are not something I'm fond of. I think in 1/2 second and taking all of three steps I was 50 feet away.
I'm with you on critters, especially any kind of rodent! I even have recurring nightmares featuring rodents of all types that nip at me!
Not a ton of progress this weekend. A few tidbits...I keep trying to reinforce and strengthen my steering column mount. I found that a bracket that I removed from under the dash during Pinto disassembly was just about the right dimension for the right side mount. I believe it to be a bit more sturdy than the threaded rod I had previously used. I have no idea what it used to support or connect, but it found a new home. I have an idea for additional bracing of what is left of the brake pedal mount that used to double as the steering column mount in its original configuration. Hopefully that will stiffen things up a bit more. As a reminder, by sectioning the cowl, I lost a lot of under dash space so it's engineer it as I go. Another thing I did was to weld the endcaps back onto the dash. My blunder of narrowing the dash has caused me days of extra work that still isn't done! I also ran the brake line from the distribution block to the rear of the car but I need to return the 2nd 40" line I bought and (hopefully) get a 30". That should allow me to tie it in at the rear junction block and finish the brake line plumbing. I am hoping next weekend allows for more project work. I lost a lot of time preparing my shop for a woman party she held today so that's behind me. I'll report more as I go...
Some progress but not a lot. I plumbed in the rear brake line and the port from the master cylinder to the inlet of the distribution block. All brake lines are now in place. I didn't tighten those at the MC as I am going to bench bleed the MC in the car. I made up lines that will return the fluid to the MC so I don't have to take it from the vice to the car and install it full of brake fluid. I fabbed some additional steering column supports and did some trimming of other home made supports under the dash so I can actually get the dash in its proper place. One of my under dash supports was in the way so I trimmed it and relocated another one ever so slightly so it was no longer in the way. I got the heater box out of its hiding place so I can see if will fit under the modified dash. It is going to be an open air roadster but If I can make the heat work, it will be one less thing for my wife to complain about. If I can make it fit, I will likely have to modify the glove compartment: make it less deep, or hopefully not, eliminate it altogether. If I can make the Heater Assy fit I will replace the heater core before permanently installing. Today I also realized that my supposedly 75-78 Mustang II grill is really from a 74 and doesn't quite fit the 76 or 77 header panel I recently procured. 74 was a one year - only design. The good news is it's in really good shape considering the year and I can modify the grill and header panel to make it work. The header panel was broken in the lower left corner so I epoxied it together. It will be completely cured by morning. I will put in a "splint" to strengthen the joint (perforated strapping), then fiberglass and body filler it to hide the repair. I am going to have to cut off the mounting tabs and fab my own to mate the 74 grill to the 76-77 header panel. Hopefully it will be for the most part un-noticeable. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will have all the dash and firewall work done so I can remove it, and do a final prime/paint, then permanently reinstall so I can get closer to running. As always, I will post progress until it gets put away for the Winter.
Hoping winter delayith its coming. Then thou may completeith thy project! :)
OK, I left this as it appears (there actually it text before the smiley face). SO MANY TIMES I will type in the default 10pt type..., and when it posts to the forum the font is teeny-tiny! Why? Typically it happens when I back space more than once. It never shows in the typing pane as small but it switches to the tiny font AFTER I SEND IT. This has happened at least 100+ times. The only solution seems to be after I type I need to highlight the text, go to the Font Size and select the 10 pt. (even though it is already 10 pt.) and THEN it actually appears as a 10pt. font and not something miniscule.
You and me both...Last year I was able to stay on it through November and even did a little bit in December. The problem I have is that once Winter comes, I am in the Propane business and it is our busy season, not to mention, I end up with 6 cars, two motorcycles, and a bunch of other stuff in the garage so I can't get to this thing until Spring. I will keep plugging away while the weather cooperates. I am taking off Fridays and Mondays through October starting this Friday so I don't lose vacation days and I should get some more done. I removed the vice grips from the header panel this AM before I left for work and it stayed together so the epoxy held. I will massage it later in the week and make it stronger and prettier.
I cut the headlight buckets off the header panel. It is fiberglass so my cutoff wheel made it a quick, easy job. I am making a "nose cone" with the '74 grill to cover the radiator. I will try to get the grill installed in the header and mock up the header panel, front bumper and headlight assemblies that are supposed to arrive from Speedway today so I (and you all) can see what the front end is going to look like. I will have to remove everything afterward and do some sanding, welding, and prepping for primer and paint. The header panel needs to be massaged with some body filler to get it ready. I repaired the crack in the lower left (right as you look at the pic) corner with epoxy and did some rough sanding to smooth it out a bit. I will reinforce with some strapping and tiger hair, then massage the whole thing. I am entering my marathon stage with Fridays and Mondays scheduled off from work through the month of October so am going to try to get as much done as possible over the next few weeks.
Today I disassembled and cleaned the heater box. The mouse nest is now gone. the dead, dried up mouse that was caught in the blower wheel is gone. I test fit it, then tried to put the dash in place. The cowl duct wouldn't fit under the dash. I cut that section off and now it fits with the dash in place. It pulls incoming air from under the dash now. The temperature damper will still be used to have heat or no heat. The fresh air vents and defrost ducting and outlets won't be used and have metal welded over the former outlets. Since I won't have a windshield or a need for the defroster, I removed the heat/defrost damper and will repurpose it to block off the top of the plenum that formerly fed the defrost duct. I will lose the glovebox storage area. The heater box takes up that entire under dash space with the narrowed cowl and dash. I don't know if I will use the heat but it is there in case I need it. I will be ordering a new heater core. The existing looks to be in good shape and appears to be original. I'm not taking the chance so a new one will go in before assembly. Yesterday I finished with my steering column bracing so today I removed the steering column and bracing and then the firewall/dash/tranny hump. It will get a good cleaning, caulking, then primer/paint. Then I can reinstall permanently and start the completion process. Tomorrow I will weld my under dash support brackets solidly while the assembly is out of the car. I will solidly weld the steering shaft to the u-joint while it is out of the car too. I have a little more body work to do on the dash and cowl. This part of the project has been tedious and once done it will go together much more quickly.
Those four-day weekends all this month should be a real boost to your efforts! I love your updates!
Dwayne :)
Substantial progress is my hope and plan, and also get my PTO bank down to the 56 hour carryover threshold so I don't lose any. I have "donated" lots of vacation time over the years and it's use or lose. Just recently NY mandates a 56 hour carryover policy.
Unfortunately our weather has taken a turn for the worse. Our high temps are only going to be in the 50's and low 60's for the rest of the month (normal) which isn't optimal for body work and paint but that's part of my short term plans. Not final body paint, but a little filler, sanding, epoxy primer and black enamel.
I think I will install the header since the firewall is off as it will probably be easier to fit that way, That means I should probably get the rest of the exhaust system figured out, purchased, and installed. Like everything with this project, it's figure it out as I go. I originally wanted to repurpose parts of the single exhaust I took off my Mustang 30 years ago but it comes down the wrong side of the car and over the wrong side of the rear axle. I may be able to cut it, re-position it, and weld it back together. I'll have to see if that's possible. Otherwise I'll have to buy a 65-66 6-cyl Mustang intermediate pipe and slightly modify it to make it work. Then it will be fuel supply and return lines. Every bit I do gets me closer to completion. Then I can have fun driving and showing it and doing other things that aren't getting done! I will report more later after today's tasks are complete.
Progress today: I caulked all the seams in the firewall. I use 30-year silicone caulk vs seam sealer. Works just fine. In an early part of the project when this thing was going to be a trike, I had cut the cowl off the firewall. After deciding to make it a shortened 4-wheeled buggy I had to weld the cowl back to the firewall. It wasn't a fun job as I was welding jagged sawzalled edges through seal sealer that catches on fire. Almost as bad as welding the roof on through lead filler! Anyway, the seams needed caulking. I also caulked the floor patch seams. I welded all the connecting points of my brake pedal/steering column mount. Now it is rock solid. Don't mock my welding on the left side...the thing was still in the car when I fabbed and tacked it together in an awkward position with under dash stuff in the way. Doing the rest in the vice came out much better! I welded the steering shaft to the u-joint and the two shafts together and primed. Lastly, I made the defrost damper into the defrost plenum block off plate so now all warm air will be directed to the under dash heater outlets. I ordered the new heater core last evening so I will be able to button up the heater box by next weekend. Tomorrow I have to do some Impala exhaust work so my progress will be less than I want.
Not a lot of progress today. I spent 2+ hours welding a rusty exhaust system on my son's Impala, then shortly thereafter we had a power outage. I cleaned off the firewall with compressed air, then solvent. Then a little bodywork on the cowl section. I scuffed the epoxy primer I sprayed two years ago so I can re-spray. I had intended to do that today and spray black enamel on Friday, but with the power outage, now it looks like epoxy on Friday and black next Sunday or Monday. Hopefully those days will be at least 60 degrees so I can spray and it will cure properly. Unfortunately, the next two weeks is supposed to have below average temps. I checked my spray gun to be sure it would be ready and noticed the fluid tip seal was missing. That explains why it was fluttering when I sprayed the front clip of the Impala earlier in the Summer. Working out of town the next few days so nothing to report until at least Friday.
Received new heater core yesterday and installed last evening.
That's pretty impressive progress, considering the Impala work and the power outage!
Dwayne :)
Today I sprayed the primer on the inside of the firewall, cowl area, and radiator support rods. Sunday or Monday I will spray the black enamel. Whichever of the two days has the best weather will be spray day. My gun sprayed perfectly today as opposed to when I did the Impala. The missing fluid tip seal was the culprit! Also ready for black will be the steering column shaft and brake pedal/steering column support and associated bracketry. I am going to install the header while the firewall is off. It will be easier than doing it after it is back in place.
The firewall is now black. It was 54 degrees in the shop when I sprayed. It will take a few days to cure. Supposed to get up to 65-67 degrees by Thursday. I'm working out of town T-Th so I won't be tempted to touch it. I spent a good deal of time making and installing brackets to hold the '74 Mustang II grill into the '76 Mustang II Header Panel. I had to cut the grill mounting tabs off the header panel and make other modifications to get it to fit. The grill will have to come back out so I can prep the header panel for paint and while out I'll have to modify the grill mounting brackets to move it to the right about 1/2" so it is centered better. I also made brackets and modified existing brackets to mount the header panel to the Pinto radiator support. This coming weekend the firewall will be re-mounted, hopefully for the last time and I can really start to assemble the car. I still have to finish the bodywork on the dash but I think all the interior parts (dash, dash pad, steering column, inner quarters, package tray) will have to wait till next year to be painted. I tried unsuccessfully to modify the over the axle portion of the exhaust yesterday. I cut it and thought I could turn it to get it to go over the right side when the original configuration is over the left side. Anyway, I had to abort the mission and welded it back together in it's original position in case I or someone needs it for a 67 Mustang single exhaust for a 289. I will get the exhaust figured out at a later date. I'll have plenty to keep me busy over the next few weekends but I won't hear it run till next year. Too many other thing to do both on this project and other obligations. More to come...
Progress over the last few days: Installed header. I did it before reinstalling the firewall so I had more room to work. You would think it would be a quick and simple job...maybe 1/2 hour? How long should it take to screw in 8 mounting bolts? I spent no less than 4 hours! I had to heat and beat the #3 tube to clear the frame. I had to cut the mounting tab off the frame that attaches the bracket from the crossmember to the frame. Had to remove the bracket, cut the welded on nuts off, the flip it upside down and re-position. Final attachment to be done later. I had to dimple the tube next to the lower mounting bolt on #3 so I could get the bolt in. It looks cool but what a PITA!
I re-installed the firewall, radiator support rods, the brake pedal and steering column support. Installed the heater box with heater hoses poking through the firewall. Re-installed the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Tightened all brake line connections. Bench bled the MC in the car. Easier that way than doing in the vice then having to carry a full MC to the car and install. Filled MC with brake fluid. Bled rear brakes. Discovered banjo fittings at the front calipers leaking like a sieve. Long story short, I had to flip the hoses over. I installed them the way they looked correct but now I know otherwise. I had to track down new crush washers and a replacement banjo bolt since I broke one. As you can tell, another, "should be quick and simple" job went to Hell. In the end, it is now leak-free and system bled. I fabbed and installed the fuel pump to carb fuel line.
I temporarily hung the muffler that I took out of my Fastback 29 years ago. I had to cut the final 8" off the tailpipe, the turn it 180 degrees and welded it back down. It it's original configuration it exited on the right side. Now it is going to exit on the left side. Swapping sides cause the tailpipe to sweep upward rather than downward, hence the need to cut it off and turn it so it now sweeps downward on the left side. I need to use a section of the intermediate pipe that came off my fastback and connect to the header collector. The collector goes from 2 1/2" to 2" which is what the old Mustang exhaust was. I will have to have an exhaust shop make and install the pipe that will connect the intermediate pipe to the inlet of the muffler. I can't use the old one because it came over the left side of the axle, and now it will come over the right side of the axle.
I squirted motor oil down each cylinder, rolled the engine over several times, then a few more squirts of oil, then reinstalled plugs.
Upcoming projects will be to attach the brake lines to the frame and firewall. I need to install the fuel tank, then plumb in the fuel supply and return lines. I need to finish the bodywork on the dash and repair the dash pad. All interior and body paint will have to wait until next year after it is warm enough. I will clean my wiring harnesses and start reinstalling. I will be re-wiring the ignition circuit. It was suspect when I got the car. I got it to run, but lots of insulation issues. I have a Duraspark wiring kit so I should be able to fix it up better.
Back to work tomorrow. Hopefully more progress next weekend.
A couple more pics...
It is really starting to look like..., well..., a car. Until now I was unsure of what this would look like. Here's to hoping you can get a lot accomplished before it gets too cold.
Yep, I'm getting there. I have many "next steps" planned to make the best use of my time. I'm looking forward to hearing it run, but that won't be till Spring. I will report more next week.
I think it's really starting to come together! Good job!
Dwayne :)
This morning it was still fairly warm (65 deg), so I pretty much finished up the dash bodywork before the cold front swept through and dropped the temp to the low 50's. It's not perfect and there are some sanding scratches but it's "good enough". If you remember, I created all this extra work for myself when I mistakenly narrowed the width of the dash. Anyway, it's stored away and I probably won't touch it till Spring. I need to fix the cracks on the dash pad. I've watched some YouTube videos where they do it with body filler. Probably not the best way to go but I have no better ideas at this point. In the end, it will all be black. No more orange.
I also did a tweak to my brake pedal. After bleeding I have good pedal, but I felt it went to close to the floor when felly depressed. You may remember that I had to install spacers between the master cylinder and the firewall to get the pedal to sit lower. My original spacer length was a little too long. I cut about 1/4" of each one and now the pedal sits a little higher than the accelerator as it should and the travel isn't too close to the floor.
I then fit the old intermediate exhaust pipe and fabbed a hanger so now I have exhaust hung except for the over the axle piece that I will have to have made once I get the thing running and on the road. I dropped the gas tank in place and found I had to move the muffler to the left a little bit so the tank didn't touch the tailpipe.
That's pretty much it for the project. I put all my body fillers, hardners, primers and paints in the basement for Winter storage. I will pull it all out again in the Spring. I got new tires for the Fastback yesterday so today I put them back on the car and got it off the jack stands. I filled the tank with non-ethanol and Stabil so it is done for the season. I had to decorate my shop for Halloween so my wife can entertain Tuesday after Trick Or Treating.
I'll do more tomorrow and report.
Today's progress: I fabricated and installed "floor frames" to attach the not yet made floor boards. There aren't going to be full floor boards, but I plan to have diamond plate made up to sweep down from the firewall and over the trans hump. No need for carpet in this open air buggy. The framework I made and will have covered will give the driver and passenger a place to put their feet. Entry into the cockpit will require "stepping through" and sitting. With real floorboards, it would be difficult getting in and out.
I installed the radiator and hoses. The lower hose took a weird turn at the bottom radiator connection. I hooked it up anyway but may have to get another one as I don't like the way it fit. I started installing the heater hoses but I'm not sure if I have them routed correctly. I am going to initiate a "Help" post in the "Ask the Experts" section so hopefully someone will have some guidance for me. I think that was all for today. Every session gets me closer to completion.
I didn't make a lot of progress over this past weekend. On Saturday I spent time brainstorming how I would mount the headlights. I got the idea that I could mount them at the outer edges of the grill like on a 67 Shelby. To do that, I would have to remove the running lamp/turnsignal assemblies and cut out the grill where the headlights would go. I wasn't set on this option as I liked the position of the turn signals which would have to be relocated, and there wasn't enough space behind the grill to the radiator to make the headlamps appear to be flush with the grill. They would have protruded about 3" and look like bug eyes. I was also going to lose the two upper grill to header panel mounting points. Nevertheless, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a Dremel-type tool so I could perform the grill surgery without hacking it up. I spent quite a bit of time running errands and had other things to do so I didn't jump into the project. Instead, I slept on it and decided to try to find a better option for the headlamps. I have another option that I will share after I do it. For now, I can't elaborate. I think it will look fine and hopefully be sturdy.
I spent quite a bit of Sunday washing motorcycles and my Fastback in preparation for Winter storage. I also began rearranging the shop so I can store everything. At the end of the day I installed the heater hoses in the factory orientation. I had to install a 3/4 to 5/8 adapter as the heater core pipes are 3/4 but the pipe to the water pump port is 5/8. I also struggled to figure out where the bracket on the 5/16 tube that goes between the upper heater pipe to the intake mounts. There was nothing "under the hood" where it would mount. It wasn't until after looking at the stock valve cover that I discovered the mounting point. My T-Bird valve cover doesn't have that hose mount so I will relocate it to the firewall.
Anyway, that was pretty much it for progress. I hope I can do more next weekend. I would like to get the headlights in place...
Looks like good solid progress to me!
Dwayne :)
Yes, every little bit gets me closer to completion. If I was retired I could work on it every day...that day is coming soon...could be any time, up to 3 years, then I'll do something PT or contract work with my current employer. Working out of town again this week and the next several so no weekday progress.
I spent a decent amount of time this weekend in between other chores and errands but I didn't make a whole lot of progress. I fabricated headlamp brackets and tack welded them in place. I started making brackets to attach the narrowed 67 Mustang front bumper. I'm only part way done with that and not sure if my path is correct. Again, it's engineer and improvise as I go. I will be tacking them in place, then the entire header panel and grill will have to be removed so I can weld the headlight bracket and bumper brackets solidly in place (I hope). That will have to be next weekend. The bumper brackets will be painted black like the rest of the chassis so they will blend in better and not be so noticeable, From the pic, it looks like I may have to put a spacer under the left headlight. Back on it next weekend...
Every little bit counts! Looking good!
Dwayne :)
Thank you....
Zero progress this weekend on the project. I did however go out the breakfast with my car club buddies Saturday AM, got a big chunk of my wife's Christmas present taken care of, got most of the Christmas lights on the house including all the ones that require the 28' extension ladder. I went to the 174th Fighter Wing Alumni Thanksgiving Party today. I am hoping this coming weekend I will get something done on the project.
I am re-thinking my headlight and bumper mounting ideas. I may come up with a different setup if it is practical and can figure out a better way to mount them than the path I am currently on. More to come, but I'm running out of time. After this coming week I will be working 5 hours away until Christmas...
Happy Thanksgiving to all!
I did very little on my project over the Thanksgiving weekend, but I am satisfied with what I did. I cut (2) 6" pieces of 2" angle that I will weld a tab onto and bolt to the bumper brackets. You will see in the "above" pic that I have them vice gripped in place. It will extend the bumper forward and give me more surface area to weld the bumper mounts to. There are pieces of of angle under the bumper on each side that you can't see. They are temporarily bolted in place and I will weld them to the angles I will bolt to the brackets. That will solve my "how do I mount the front bumper?" problem.
The next thing I am thinking of is either fabbing a headlamp bracket to be welded to the top of the bumper brackets, and mount the headlamps to it, of maybe mount the headlamps to the outboard bumper mounting bolt hole. It will be solid enough, but pending a warm spell and some extra time, I'm probably not going to tackle that until Spring. It will allow me to eliminate the chinsy headlight brackets I made a couple of weeks ago. I don't like the way they look and they aren't as solid as I would like. I only tacked them in place for easy removal if I came up with a better idea.
Pic # 3 shows that it is in its Winter resting spot. I will be working away from home until Christmas and there will be plenty of other tasks for me to do so this might be all my progress until Spring. I will watch to see what others post and advise of any additional progress I make over the Winter.
No progress today and none planned for tomorrow. Today was LOF, tire rotation, and shift cable repair on daily driver. Tomorrow LOF and tire rotation on wife's car. Other obligations sprinkled in. Maybe next week...
Some progress this weekend. I fabbed and welded the latest iteration of the bumper and headlamp mounts. One per side. The attached pic doesn't really show how it came together or how it mounts to the car, but it will be under the bumper and mostly unseen. In the Spring it will become black when I get the paint gun back out. I need to drill out the mounting bolt holes and grind down some of the welds to make it prettier. I still need to figure out the actual headlight mounting point but I think I have a good idea for that. If we get any more 40 degree weather, I will continue to make progress.
Wishing you more 40 degree days! We woke up to snow this morning :(
Dwayne
This coming weekend is looking promising weather-wise so I will likely get a little more done. If/when the Winter weather takes over, I will start making plans for final body and paint, windscreen selection and order, wiring harness clean and prep, battery box/trunk mount and cables to the engine bay, and a host of things I haven't even thought of yet! I am looking forward to Spring and it's not even Christmas yet!
Today I hogged out the bumper mount bolt holes and mounted the assembly, including what I have made for headlight mounts. I still have some more to create for the headlight mounts but it seems to be coming together. I'll take and send pics once I have the headlights mounted.
Quote from: rob289c on December 17, 2023, 02:36:04 PM
Today I hogged out the bumper mount bolt holes and mounted the assembly, including what I have made for headlight mounts. I still have some more to create for the headlight mounts but it seems to be coming together. I'll take and send pics once I have the headlights mounted.
Sounds good!!!
Dwayne :)
Today I mounted the headlights...it's temporary, but I think this is going to be the permanent configuration with a little extra bracing welded in. I have the fore and aft part of the mounts vice gripped in place. I'll tack them in place the next time I get the welder out.
Our weather is going to turn colder next week and I continue to work out of town so progress will be sporadic until Spring. If I do anything, I will let everyone know.
Merry Christmas and a Happy, Healthy, and Prosperous 2024 to all!
Rob
It's starting to look like a Mustang II - I'm impressed! Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Dwayne :)
The only thing I did to my project this weekend was to pull the cover back so I could look at it! Happy 2024 to All!
Considering you are in the land of Ice & Snow doing ANYTHING is an accomplishment. It is 60F-65F degrees here in So. Cal. and it still takes a strong act of my will to want to go out and work on my cars. But then I have a condition called Renaud's when if the temperature goes below 85F my hands and feet feel icy cold - even in the summer. It was so blatantly obvious when a group of us were at a Science Museum and stood before a thermal camera and I look so decidedly different. I guess you could call me "The Hidden Minority" based on (thermal) skin color.
It was cold here today...started out around 32 with snow at 0730, and by afternoon it was mid-20's but sunny. Weird weather. I was outside working with techs this AM, but parked in front of the computer all afternoon. Next week I will be evaluating techs (outside) so I'll have to bring the insulated gear. If I keep my hands and feet warm, the rest of me will stay that way.
Stay warm and only 3 more months of Winter!
Looking at it is better than not looking at it! lol Happy New Year!!!
Dwayne :)
Since nothing has been posted for a few days, I will let you know that I have done nothing on my project since 12/24. It might be a while before I even lift the cover to look at it! Otherwise, I hope all is well with all. I'll let you know if any progress is made and if there is anything of value to report.
No progress to report but there have been signs that Spring is coming. I know there are several more weeks of Winter, but every day gets us closer to the end. I am looking forward to working on my project again. The next major progress will include bodywork and paint so I need it to get and stay warm. There will be other smaller details I can work on but the major progress will be after paint has been sprayed.
Something to look forward to for sure!
Dwayne :)
I ordered and received a valve cover grommet and 1/2" 90. It will ultimately be tied into the air cleaner. I ordered it from Rock Auto for an '88 Ranger as I was guessing where the valve cover originally came from. It took a little silicone spray and manipulation to get the grommet in, then I had to use the heat gun to soften the grommet to get the 90 in place. It will have to come back out later in the project when I completely sand down the valve cover and either powder coat or paint with hi temp engine paint. I just sprayed it with general purpose black spray paint so I could see what it was going to look like. It was Ford Blue when I got it.
Seems like a good guess. The center indent in the valve cover I believe is for the fuel injection manifold to cross over and provide hood clearance.
Yep, that's what it is. I like the look...it reminds me of the "Cobra Power by Ford" valve covers on my Mustang's 289.
I DO love progress!!!
Dwayne :)
Hopefully soon there will be more of it and on a much more regular basis!
We had snow this week but the trend is for improving weather patterns. Hopefully I can transform my Winter storage barn into an operating shop soon. I need to get back on my project so I can get it done this Summer. I have priming and painting to do so I need it to really warm up. There are some other odds and ends I can do until it's warm enough to paint so I will hopefully start posting progress again soon.
Quote from: rob289c on April 06, 2024, 07:20:31 AM
I will hopefully start posting progress again soon.
Definitely looking forward to it!
Dwayne :)
I think next week my Winter Storage barn returns to workshop status! I will be starting back up on my project.
Unrelated, I have an 03 Ranger with a rotted bed. There is rot around the wheel wells and the bed floor. If there wasn't a bed liner in it, it wouldn't hold any cargo. Today I just bought a Mazda bed from a guy that gets them from NC. Rust free and the same color. The body lines are slightly different, but it will bolt on. I will clean up the underside, epoxy, enamel, then coat with fibrated roofing tar. That will get me a few more years out of the truck. While the old bed is off, I'll clean up and seal the frame with POR 15 or similar. The left side wheel well is way worse than the right side in the pic.
Sounds like a relatively simple and inexpensive way to keep your otherwise functional truck alive and well. Looking forward to seeing the next phase of work on the roadster.
Dwayne :)
Yesterday I rearranged my garage and got my toys accessible. The Harley got it's annual oil and primary fluid changed. It doesn't get tranny gear oil change this year. I put the battery in the Mustang and fired it up. Took it to the end of the street and back. Only put 500 miles on last year so no oil change. Re-torqued the lug nuts as I bought new tires last Fall just before putting putting it away. Glad I did...there were some that were loose. The project car just got rolled around and admired. I think the first things I will do is repair the cracks in the dash pad and get the rest of the interior parts (dash, steering column, rear interior quarter panels, rear package tray, junk tray) ready for adhesion promoter, primer, black paint. I have to work in some gardening/weeding and other home projects, then a week in FL at the end of the month but I plan to make some progress in the next few weeks.
It sounds like you got a few things accomplished over the weekend, and that's a good thing!
Dwayne :)
I finally did something other than look at my project. I made repairs to my cracked and otherwise unsightly dash pad. I used a heat gun and razor knife in the areas of the large cracks and dug out the bad foam too. I filled the deep crevices with crumpled aluminum foil, then regular body filler. After fully cured, I used a lightweight, flexible body filler (Porpoise Putty) and skinned and sanded it smooth. See before and after below. Future treatment will be adhesion promoter, primer/surfacer, then the black paint the rest of the interior parts will get. Progress...
Ah, progress... one of my favorite things! Glad to know you're back at it!
Dwayne :)
Looking forward to how this turns out and more importantly how it holds up. On my Datsun 510 I filled the cracks with spray foam and then sanded. Then I bought a sheet of vinyl and wrapped it. But that dash didn't have the complex curves of the Pinto.
I have thought about spraying some type of smooth but textured product on before the black paint. I'll have to do a little research to see what's suitable and available. Or maybe not...
I won't be making any progress this weekend. I'll be out of town. I hope everyone enjoys the holiday weekend while remembering why the holiday exists...
Rob
I finally got some garage time over the weekend. Some progress: I brainstormed what to do about a windscreen. I am thinking it is going to be plexiglass or some other clear polymer. I made a template out of poster board. I had to think of a way to mount it. I came up with an idea for clips and built one out of cardboard from a toothpaste box. It will allow me to mount the lower edge, and will provide a 45 degree (or so) windshield rake. My other Mustang is a 40 degree rake but for this application I think a 45 degree will be good. I would like the metal for the clips cut and bent professionally with a shear and brake so they look right and not a cob job. I will have to fab some sort of braces for the top of the windscreen and attach to the dash or some other secure spots. I also removed the Mustang II header panel and removed the grill from the header panel. I will be doing body work on the header panel to prep for primer and paint. I will also clean up the grill so it will be ready to reinstall after the header panel is in paint. I also popped the orange steering wheel off so I can prep the visible portion of the column for black paint. I had to use my harmonic balancer puller to get it off. It goes right on and off now. I will not be re-using the orange steering wheel. I have a 13" three-spoke wheel with a Mustang center. Over a year ago I ordered and received a rear deck package tray that has provisions for 6x9 speakers. 64-67 Mustangs didn't have factory 6x9 rear rear speaker cutouts so this aftermarket part provides that option. I will have to trace and cut out the openings when I get to that point. I finally opened the box and set it in place to see what it looked like. I will make it work. I got the rear inner quarters out of hiding and did some corrosion control and paint stripping. The next "major" step will to get all the interior parts painted black. Dash, Dash Pad, Rear Inner Quarters, Junk Tray, Steering Column. Then I can start prepping the body for primer/surfacer and top coat. I took inventory of the paint products I have left over from another project, visited my local NAPA, and made a list of what I need to buy to ensure I have enough product to complete the job. There is so much left to do. I need to secure the brake lines to the frame. I need to fabricate and install fuel supply and return lines. After paint I need to get the wiring harnesses in place. I need to get a battery box and mount it in the trunk and run pos and neg cables to the front. I still think I can get this thing to a point that I can run it around my circle before I have to put it away for the season. I need to make the best use of my time but I still have other automotive maintenance and home/yard projects to do. This coming Sunday is Father's Day so I go to a car show in my home town in my Fastback. That kills a day of productivity. Some time in July I will have to go to TX to see my son graduate from Air Force Basic Training. That will keep me from making progress. If I keep making small steps of progress I can get this thing done.
I know projects can seem unending, but I think you're moving along magnificently! Glad you found some time to work on it!
Dwayne :)
Tomorrow is Saturday and I need to make the best use of the morning and early afternoon. I have to go to a neighbor's kid's birthday party (begrudgingly) and then I will be participating in a Father's Day Car Show on Sunday in my home town which means no Sunday progress. I mowed the lawn yesterday so I don't have to do it tomorrow and maybe I can get some more time on my project. I will report tomorrow evening on what I am able to get done.
Quote from: rob289c on June 14, 2024, 08:32:31 PM
I will report tomorrow evening on what I am able to get done.
I'll be waiting for your report! Have a great weekend!
Dwayne :)
Yesterday (Saturday) I cleaned, sanded, and did body work on the Mustang II header panel (nose piece). I used body filler on the top and sides where it will be visible and only sanded the underside and other unseen parts. It will get few coats of primer surfacer, then bodycolor. After that I got the dash pad back out for a little more massaging. So more body filler and sanding. I think I have it as good as I am going to get it. I also continued stripping the green paint off the rear inner quarters. The need to be scuffed, then epoxy, then interior black. For only a few hours of work I did OK.
Today we went to a car show in the fastback. I had a great spot next to the lake (Owasco Lake, one of the Finger Lakes in NY). 80 degrees, low humidity and sunshine all day. I heard they had a record # of cars, but don't knw the actual count. I know they have topped 700 cars several times in the past so there were at least that many.
We are in for a heat wave this week. I hope next weekend will be more productive on my project. That's all Folks... ;D
I'd say you made pretty good progress, all things considered. We're going to be experiencing that heat wave too. Stay hydrated and try to stay in cool places!
Dwayne :)
Hopefully a lot more this coming weekend!
Today I reviewed my inventory of paint products and made a list of what I need. I want it all in stock so when the time is right I can prep, mix and spray. I went to NAPA and placed my order. They had everything except for the quart of FP 410 Primer/Surfacer. That will be in Monday. Afterward I went home and sanded the dash, glove box door, and ash tray. They are all but ready for epoxy and black paint. I may spray them with a few coats of primer/surfacer before the paint. Tomorrow I will do the final prep on the rear inner quarters. They will then be ready for epoxy. I made lists of which parts and assemblies need which coatings so I can be organized and not have to re-mix any products. I'm sure something will be forgotten but if I can keep that to a minimum, that will be a win.
Yesterday (Sunday) I wire wheeled the inner quarters from the Mustang. Paint removed and wiped down with paint prep solvent. They are ready for epoxy. That was pretty much it for my project work.
I think next will be to scuff the body that is in epoxy in case I sand through to metal or body filler so I can touch it up while I have epoxy in the gun spraying other parts.
Most of the day was spent weeding the garden, weeding around the patio, trimming shrubs, raking the clippings, weed whacking, mowing. Worked like a dog!
I made 0 progress on my project this past weekend. I am cleaning out and organizing two rooms that my wife and son have badly cluttered over the last several years. I am reclaiming one for a grandchild nursery and the other to be a guest room. I found things I haven't seen in years. Tossed some, will donate some, some have been stored in a better way, and some will be returned to use now that I know they are still in existence. I hope next weekend is more productive on my project!
This morning I sanded the body. I had sprayed the epoxy 2 or so years ago so it needed to be abraded. I used 600 grit. Next weekend I plan to spray more epoxy on various parts, brackets, etc and weld the Pinto transmission hump to the Mustang driveshaft tunnel to tie it all together. That work area will need a squirt of epoxy too. I also found a high spot on the left sail panel and sanded it down so that will need a squirt too.
I am going to paint the dash pad with Krylon Fusion Hammered Texture Black. It claims to adhere to plastic and vinyl so it should be suitable to spray on the body-filler repaired dash pad and the hammered texture should hide the repaired areas better. I will clean with solvent first, then adhesion promotor, then the paint. Fingers crossed it comes out looking nice.
I leave for San Antonio on the 16th and am taking the 15th off. I am hoping by then I will have sprayed 4 coats of urethane primer surfacer. When I get back I can sand it smooth in preparation for color coat. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks the body and paint portion of this project will be over!
You seem to be very happy having the weather to get back at it. it is really coning along. I was curious what the plans for the area circled in red are? It would seem wood might be a good product to make a "finisher" on that end.
BTW (as inspiration) I finally got my Corvair wagon running decent enough to get it to Cars & Coffee last weekend.
I love your 'Vair! A friend in HS had a '66 2-door that we used to tool around in. Another buddy had a '65. I like the ones that were like a pick up but you (I) never see any of those.
As for the door jam area, I am planning to just paint it body color. I am also looking to fabricate a triangulated piece out of round tubing that will be welded to a hinge at the firewall and extend back to where the striker plate would be to function as a door. Really it will give the illusion of safety so neither driver nor passenger accidentally falls out. It will just be pinned closed. As for wood to give it a finished look, I have no talent with wood and limited wood working tools. I am planning to cover the sides of the firewall with diamond plate to give it a "finished" look and also diamond plate on the floor sections to cover up the raggedy transmission hump and give that a more finished look.
Last night during my "I can't get back to sleep" session, I remembered that I still need to get the clips that will hold my windscreen to the cowl fabricated. I need them ASAP as they will also need to be epoxy coated and painted. I would like to not have to do another epoxy session...I want to spray everything at once while I have it mixed and in the spray gun. Especially the small amount I will need to mix and spray on the clips. Improper planning on my part...I should have had them fabbed already. I may opt to have them powder-coated at the sheet metal shop as they perform that service too. Then I won't have to worry about epoxy and paint. Anyway, we're getting closer to the weekend so I hope to have more progress to report by Sunday.
Edit: on the inside vertical edge, I am going to install black windlace over the edge to cover it up. It is the same material that the Mustang had from the factory.
Yesterday I did something that I have thought about a lot but didn't want to do. I tied the rear of the Pinto transmission hump to the rear floor section/driveshaft tunnel of the Mustang body. The hump and tunnel are of different shapes and sizes so I knew it was going to be a PITA to fabricate with no special metal working tools and then getting it tacked and welded in place. The right side was pretty easy as it was just a filler piece that with a little massaging, it went together pretty easily. The left side was a little more complicated. I had to fab a sort of a block off panel, then the filler piece. Neither side is pretty, but with a little grinding, primer, seam sealer, and paint, it will be a functional repair. It is solid and now the firewall/trans hump are tied to the rear of the body. Like most parts of the project, it took way more time than I thought it would at the onset. My plan is that once all together I want to cover the hump and down over the frame rails with diamond plate. That will give it a more "finished" look. It is still going to be a "step into" cockpit and will not have full floors. I'll be sure to post pics when complete.
The other thing I have in work is I have a small metal shop fabricating the 9 windshield clips I will need to hold the windscreen in place at the cowl/firewall. They are making them out of stainless so I won't have to coat them. Not sure of ETA, but I don't need them right away anyway.
I will make more progress today and will try to get a progress report posted this evening.
Progress today: I was out in the garage at 0600 grinding the welds I did yesterday. Then I put away yesterday's tools, and started picking up shop. I had to quit at 0700 to get ready to go to the barbershop. After that and a few errands, then I pushed the car outside, blew off the dust and other debris with compressed air. I then wiped the body and interior with a damp sponge. I seam sealed the drip rails and the seam between the bottom of the quarter and the rocker, as well as some other areas that needed it. I continued to rearrange, sweep, and get the garage ready to spray epoxy. Tomorrow I start a week off from work. I plan to shoot epoxy after running morning errands. I won't make any other progress until next weekend as I will be going to San Antonio to watch my son graduate from Air Force Basic Training. Next weekend I plan to spray the interior parts black.
This afternoon I sprayed epoxy on various brackets, the dash, glove box door, ash tray, interior panels and a few spots on the body. I beat the storm that is just arriving. Everything will have to sit as-is until I get back from TX. I'm not sure on my next step. I wasn't going to worry about primer surfacer on the dash but I think it will be better in the long run if I do. The reconstructive bodywork is visible and the urethane might hide it a little better. If that's next, I need to prep the body and spray it and the dash at the same time. Once a product is mixed and in the gun, I don't want to have to mix up another batch down the road. I want to do it all at once.
We spent T-Fri in San Antonio to watch our son graduate from Air Force Basic Training. Like when our daughter did it a few years prior, it is a proud experience for parents.
Project update: before we left I had sprayed pieces/parts with epoxy. This AM I sprayed the floor brackets, dash brackets, bumper/headlight brackets and the inside of the interior panels with black tractor enamel.
This afternoon I sanded the truck lid, quarter panel extensions, and side scoop inserts to prepare for urethane. I then masked the car. Tomorrow I plan to wipe the body and other parts with solvent, then tack and spray urethane primer surfacer. I hope to get 4 good coats, or as many as I can spray before I run out of material. I will let it cure through the week, then sand it smooth next weekend. At that point I will be able to spray color when my schedule allows. Getting closer...
Sprayed urethane today. Next will be to sand it smooth, then color. I got good coverage, but have tiger stripes. I will have to widen the fan and open the fluid when I spray color. The pics look similar to the previous posts, but it is a different product on the car now. I may sand it next weekend but don't think I will spray color yet. I need to take my time. I have my HS reunion next weekend and have to look at a siding repair at my Mom's house. I need to clean out the garage (sweep, leaf blower, power wash) to get and dust/debris out so I can spray in a clean environment. I think waiting another week for color will be better in the long run. Anyway, I made progress over the last two weeks.
Yesterday (Saturday) I sanded the urethane I sprayed last weekend. It seems to have come out pretty nice. Next Saturday I will wipe any residual dust off it with a damp sponge, then on Sunday, solvent wipe, then paint. Today I sprayed various parts with interior black. The paint is almost 50-50 leftover semi gloss and satin. It looks pretty glossy after spraying; I hope it flattens out a bit after curing.
Every little bit gets me closer to completion...
Progress for sure. Keep at it, it will eventual be complete. Sometime the last "mile" is the hardest.
That's usually when I start taking short cuts and do shoddy work! ;D There are so many small details left to do but I will feel much better after the body and paint part is done. I'm not that good at it so it's not going to be show car quality, but that was never my goal anyway. I think the next phase will be to fabricate supply and return fuel lines, then secure fuel and brake lines to the frame. Then I can install the wiring harnesses and get ready to hear the engine run for the first time in three or four years. I'm going to trunk mount the battery so that will be another project: buy and mount a battery box, and routing long cables.
I'll have to find some sort of radio. I have the factory radio bezel. Does anyone know of something that will fit in the hole? I'm not interested in any high performance sound system...just want to have FM radio available. I have JBL 6x9 speakers for the rear deck.
I can't get over how much progress you've made while I wasn't paying attention! It's looking good! I didn't realize I hadn't been online for so long either... have had lots going on. A little over a month ago I bought myself a 2017 Mercedes-Benz E400 cabriolet, so I've been out riding around with the top down instead of spending time on the computer. lol This is the seventh convertible I've owned, but there was a six-year lap between this one and the 2015 Mustang I sold in 2018. Feels good to have the wind blowing through my hair again! Your progress looks amazing. Can't wait to see the finished project!
Dwayne :)
Quote from: dga57 on August 01, 2024, 11:24:58 AM
... Feels good to have the wind blowing through my hair again! ...
Dwayne :)
If only I could have that experience. :( The "land clearing" on the top of my head is getting close to a complete flesh toned Cul De Sac. ::) Happy motoring! As we all get older the days to enjoy keep getting shorter and with less comfort. Grab them while you can.
My little project will almost be a convertible. There is a bit of a roof, but will be an open air vehicle. I'll get that "wind in my hair" feeling, although there is a a lot less up there than I started with! I had three convertibles when I was a teen: '70 Cutlass, '65 Mustang, '68 Mustang. I loved those cars. Haven't had one since.
I can't remember if I mentioned it previously...I procured my windscreen. Polycarbonate (Lexan). I'm waiting on the clips I am having made to hold the bottom of the windscreen to the cowl. Then I can install but will have to dream up some sort of support for the top of it. During one of my sleepless nights it will come to me.
I am going to spray body color at some point over the next three days. Sunday looks to be the best day weather-wise but I could do it as early as tomorrow (Friday), or even Saturday. I want to get it done so I can move on. Will report more after paint.
Today was high humidity and started raining while I was painting, but it is now Medium Gray Metallic. Not the best day to spray, but even perfect weather wouldn't make a silk purse out of this sow's ear! ;D I had just enough paint for 3 good coats and I wish I had just a little more...I ran out as I was giving the left sail panel its final coat so there is a little tiger striping. I didn't have enough to blend it in. Anyway, other than the expected orange peel, it came out pretty good. I won't touch it till tomorrow afternoon. We are getting our daughter's dog tomorrow morning (babysitting)...he better not decide to investigate and scratch it!
I don't know if I will do anything else to it this weekend. I need to keep my paws off it so the paint cures. I accidentally touched it...I had a rag on my left shoulder and as I bent down to look at the paint it started falling off. When I went to grab it, I accidentally touched the left quarter panel and made a smudge. Maybe it will buff out later. Too soon to touch right now. Anyway, another mission accomplished and I can move on to other things.
I unmasked everything and wiped down dust from the last several months. I had a helper for a few minutes and torqued the front wheel adapters. I had previously only snugged them so now they are torqued with Loctite. Back on 4 wheels so I pushed it back into its spot. Now I can get up into he overhead and get parts that I can now start to do reassembly. The orange steering wheel is only temporary. More next weekend...
You're making progress! Awesome job so far...
Thank you...I look it over every time I go out in the garage...I see a lot of spots where I should have spent more time and attention to detail, but then have to remind myself that I spent more time than I really wanted to and my skill level is novice at best. I can't knit-pick a few pinholes and underlying crappy metal. This was never intended to be a show car, but as you know, you always wish it was better! Overall I am satisfied and it will garner a lot of attention when I drive it to its first cruise in! I know the Mustang purists are going to tell me that I ruined a perfectly good Mustang until I show them what I started out with! She was a real beauty...
Wow! That IS a major upgrade!Good luck.
It's been a lot of work and it's engineer it as I go. One modification generally leads to several other work-arounds to figure out. I made a punch list of to-do items to get me close to the end but there are many I didn't list that will pop up.
Today after work I installed the side scoop ornaments and quarter panel extensions. I also got a couple of boxes of parts and the rear window assemblies out of storage so I can start cleaning and installing.
Tomorrow (Saturday) I will be attending a car show that is part of a street festival in my home town, and Sunday I will be back on the project.
Today I did a lot of little things that don't show up as progress, but all necessary. I bolted the dimmer switch in place. I washed the Mustang II grill and reinstalled the marker light assembles. I packed it back up and it's back in its box awaiting installation. I spread out the under hood and rear lighting wiring harnesses out on the floor and got reacquainted with the connections. I labeled the ends with masking tape and Sharpie when I removed it, but some of my writing isn't legible. I think I have most of it figured out. am going to wipe down the harnesses with mineral spirits before reinstalling. I am going to have to re-wire pretty much the entire ignition section as it was in bad shape and I had to cob it together to get the engine to run prior to removing it. I bought a Duraspark II wiring kit about three years ago so I should be able to make it serviceable. I cleaned, lubed and installed the speedo cable, and re-installed the to floor frame pieces I fabbed last Fall. I set the shifter in place just to see how it looks. I disassembled the rear quarter windows and cleaned all the old dry grease out of the roller tracks and rollers. I washed the assemblies so they are nicer to handle. I still need to degrease the regulators, re-lube everything and install. I cleaned the transmission lines but I think I need to get new ones made. They are pretty corroded at the radiator end. I don't trust them for the long term. I will take them to the local hydraulic shop to get new ones made. I wire wheeled the rear valance attaching hardware, the trunk lid hardware, the coil mount and starter relay mount, then primed and painted black. Soon to be installed. I took the instrument cluster out of it's box and realized I missed painting it what I sprayed black paint a few weeks ago. I'll have to mix up a small batch so I can hide that hideous orange! This AM I ordered 25' of red and 25' of black 1 ga battery cable and lug ends. I am relocating the battery to the truck so I needed quite a bit of cable. I also ordered a tube of 3M weather strip adhesive so I can install the trunk weather strip, then I can mount the trunk lid. Once that's on, I will polish the paint. I think that's it for now. More next weekend.
This needs to be black!
This is a non-productive weekend when it comes to my project. My employer is a major sponsor of our county fair so I spend every evening manning the booth, my car club's annual car show was yesterday, today I have to strip, then wax the floor at my VFW. Friday before bed I went out to the shop and adhered the weather stripping to the trunk lid. I am looking to install the trunk lid to the car later this afternoon when I get home from the VFW.
A few more things to report: The deck lid is installed but not yet perfectly aligned. I am going to loosen the quarter panel extensions, then put the big dog pillow on the decklid, a piece of plywood on top of it, then a piece of railroad track on that for weight to hold it down. Then I will get under the car (the gas tank is not in place) and loosen the decklid mounting bolts and trunk hinge bolts. Then I will move the decklid and quarter panel extensions into the best positions, then tighten everything down. That should align things pretty nicely.
Beyond that, I installed tightened the power steering hoses, but still need to get some cushion clamps to mount and secure them. The pressure hose connection at the pump concerns me...It is an o-ring seal and it doesn't tighten like I think it should the instructions say it is a swivel fit so I have to believe it is installed correctly and won't leak. I connected the throttle cable to the bracket and snapped the fitting over the ball. I also bolted the trunk lid latch on to the bracket at the rear of the trunk area. I started looking at how the fuel line should be run. If anyone has a narrative on how it runs between the fuel pump to the rear, including how it runs down and mounts to the frame rail will be welcome.
Lots of little things to do that take time. Gotta keep making progress!
I was going to bend my own fuel lines and even bought a length of line. After looking at my Fastback's fuel line I decided the intricate bends at the rear around the trunk area were going to be a PITA so I broke down and bought a one-piece 5/16" fuel like for a 67 Mustang for CJ Pony Parts ($90 :o). I will use it at the rear and modify as necessary to get it to fit up to the fuel pump. It was way too long for this project so I already cut 3-4' off the front. I will repurpose the part I cut off to be used as one of my transmission cooling lines. As for the fuel line, I did test fit at the rear yesterday but I am going to have to remove the left rear shock and maybe disconnect the parking brake cables to get it in the right spot. It isn't going to be a fun job. Once I have it bent, I will use it as a pattern to bend up the 1/4" fuel return line and install them together. The Mustang didn't have a return line, but the the Pinto does. I was able to get a Mustang gas tank sending unit that has supply and return line tappings. Yesterday I also aligned the deck lid as best I could. It is an aftermarket part and I don't like the way the left and right lines fit the top of the quarter panels, but as I keep reminding myself, it was never intended to be a perfect show car. This morning I installed the trunk lock assembly. It needs further adjustment and I will mess with that at a later time. Tomorrow I plan to compound, then polish the body. No wet sanding as the paint is single stage metallic and several body men and other research said DO NOT wet sand it. What I do tomorrow will be fine.
Today I am riding the Harley to Syracuse for a 174th Fighter Wing Alumni Picnic with a guy I served with. He also happens to be my son in law's father. Maybe I will get a little progress on the project later today, but it may have to wait till tomorrow.
Today I compounded, then polished the body. Overall it came out nice and has a nice luster. Unfortunately I burned through the paint in a couple of spots...nothing I can do about it now. I also hooked the transmission lines back up. I was going to make new lines but put the old crusty ones back in. I put the fuel line back in place but ended up cutting it and will make it a 2-piece line with a double flare union to connect them. Trying to manipulate and modify the one-piece Mustang line was proving to be too much trouble. Anyway, I made progress and getting closer to being able to start and then drive it.
Quote from: rob289c on August 25, 2024, 06:08:28 PM
I made progress and getting closer to being able to start and then drive it.
That's the day I'm looking forward to!
Dwayne :)
You and me both! It's getting closer.
I made a little progress over the weekend, although it doesn't seem like I did. I installed the two, rear quarter glass assemblies. The job didn't go all that well. I had cleaned the glass and tracks a few weeks ago, but I still had to clean the regulators. One of the regulators had a bent arm and I'm not sure if I bent it back to the correct position. It may still be a little off. Anyway, I did the passenger side first as that was the demonstration on the You Tube video I watched over and over and started and stopped through the process. It doesn't seem to go up and down through the full travel. I think I may have to start over. I did the driver's side and it seems to go up and down better but there is still some irregularity and doesn't seem "quite right". I did replace the rollers on both sides so that isn't (shouldn't) be the problem. It is an awkward job with limited visibility but I think I have the process down pretty well with all the fumbling around I had to do. Last evening I watched another video that used a different method, but in the end, the result should be the same. Sometimes when you take a break and try again it goes more smoothly. I also discovered that 68 window cranks are different from 67. My regulators are 67 (65-67 are the same), but my window cranks are from a 68 that I got from a junkyard when I got the inner quarter panels. They don't go on. I will have to order two for a 65-67. They are only $15 ea, but the problem seems to be the set screw is crappy. It is slotted, while the original is allen. Hopefully I can use the set screw from the 68 handles as long as Ford didn't have a "Better Idea" and change the thread from 67 to 68!
That was all the time I got on my project (most of Sunday). On Saturday I weeded a garden that was overgrown and cleaned gutters and downspouts. I knew both needed to be done but I put it off all Summer as my goal was to get this project in paint. I still have other "didn't get to it" projects from he Summer that need done before the weather changes. This time of year work ramps up and my time gets scarce so every minute has to count. This coming weekend I have other events scheduled that will prevent me from making as much progress as I would like but I do plan to spray some interior parts black as the weather will be conducive.
It's been a while since I've posted...mainly because I have made very little progress! Too many other tasks, activities, and commitments have gotten in the way. This past weekend I did do a little. I painted the dash pad, instrument cluster, and rear package tray with my interior black paint. That exhausted my supply of leftover EXP Project paint. I had done come bodywork on the dash pad to fix the cracks. I used adhesion promotor first, then a hammer texture rattle can to try to hide some of the imperfections. It came out pretty good. The instrument cluster and rear package tray got the regular spray gun treatment. I am taking off the week of 10/7 so I home to make good progress then.
Wow, the first post at the PCCA site in NINETEEN Days! The patient has a pulse - barely.
The dash looks great. What did you do to repair the cracks? I scrolled up but didn't see anything. I have tried in the past to do repairs but in the end while the gap filled I had to cover it with vinyl cloth to look half way decent.
The dash looks really good! I enjoy following the work on your roadster project. Please keep posting updates!
Yesterday I was able to get on this site for the first time in over a week. I tried to share recent progress but it didn't post. THis may not either. If it does, I will share what I did today...
It appears the site is working again. On Friday I fabbed the rear portion of my fuel return line. I use the pre-bent 5/16 supply line I got from CJ Pony Parts as my pattern and made a copy with 1/4 line. Today I got the full length of the supply line in place and the rear portion of the return. I need to get a 60" section of 1/4 and run it up toward the fuel pump then tie in both lines at the tank and fuel pump. I wire wheeled all the fuel line and brake line hangers so next weekend when it warms up I can prime, paint and install. I still need to replace the valve stem seals but that's a job I've never done so I'm a bit apprehensive. I also need to get back to the rear quarter window installation job. The passenger side needs to be re-done. I think the regulator arm needs to be bent a little. I'll figure it out.
I will back up to the dash repair as it looks like my Friday post isn't going to be published...for the major cracks over the instrument cluster, I used a razor knife to cut out the affected areas at an angle. I filled the "excavations" in with aluminum foil. Then regular Bondo, then I skimmed the entire dash pad with a lightweight filler (Porpoise Putty) and sanded smooth: 80 > 180 > 320 grit. While it isn't perfect, it is much better than what I started with. After final sanding it got 3 coats of adhesion promotor, then 3 coats of Krylon "Hammer Finish" textured black rattle can paint. The textured finish masks some of the imperfections. Not perfect but good for what I am building.
So glad the site is working again as I have missed reading about your project! Glad you were able to make some progress.
Quote from: 1972 Wagon on October 14, 2024, 09:59:34 AM
So glad the site is working again as I have missed reading about your project! Glad you were able to make some progress.
Me too! Scott told me he was going to take the site down for some much-needed maintenance, but didn't specify exactly when that was going to happen. I guess we all got caught off guard!
Dwayne :)
I was afraid it was gone for good. I'm glad it's back. I should be able to make more progress coming this weekend.
1972 Wagon: I see you've had your Pinto for a long time. It's great you have kept it so long! I drove Pintos between Sep 1983 - Jan 1989. Two wagons and a hatchback. They were reliable and easy to maintain and repair. They got me through 4 hears of Navy and the first three years of college. I drove them until they wouldn't. This current project is only half Pinto but it keeps one that would have been junked alive.
Way back in 1972, my parents ordered two Pintos- a yellow sedan for my older brother and the green wagon for my mother. When I started commuting to college, I got to use the wagon. We use to joke that my dad loved the wagon so much that he would sell us before the car!
Quote from: rob289c on October 14, 2024, 07:34:54 PM
I was afraid it was gone for good.
Around here there have been numerous "disappearances." I believe one lasted as long as a month. So, if the site can't be found check back periodically because it likely has a few of its nine lives left. I remember when this was a happening place. At least 10 to 15 new posts a day. A month or so ago we had one new post in the whole month. And to my knowledge this is the only specific, dedicated Pinto site out there. Go figure.
I won't mention names but there were two people in particular that seemed to drive people away. And there were three to five lesser players each with their own issues. NONE of them are around today. It seems the gold has run out and there are just a few who linger in this near digital Ghost Town. The most active thread (seems the ONLY active thread) is Pinto powered but not even a Pinto. No offense intended Rob, only making a point. I'm glad you are here. Dwayne isn't the site owner but he sure strives to make sure there is still a light on in case wayward Pinto owners come back home or a stranger wanders into (digital) town.
I'm still here and enjoying reading the posts and was thinking this site had died and I was feeling quite sad about it. I kept checking and then voila, it was back up! I, too, remember 15-20 years ago when I first joined, this site was so active! I wonder what will eventually happen to this site. I heard there is an active Facebook Pinto site? But I'm not on Facebook. The triple digits are finally subsiding here in Phoenix and so we plan to take the Pinto out of storage sometime this week. It doesn't have AC. It was in June that we put it in storage after a complete engine rebuild. It's a '78 and in Sept. 2025 we've owned it for 20 years! Around 33,000 miles. (I periodically look at Pinto sales on eBay and they appear to be mostly wagons.)
I'm glad a few of us still "hang out". I wasn't here for the heyday, but it would have been nice to have been a part of. Of course, that would make it all the more disappointing to see it lose members. I think forums such as this were a thing 15 years ago but a lot of users have migrated to other social media. I'm not a social media kind of guy. I avoided it until I was forced to get a FB account but I don't want to get sucked into sitting there scrolling like I see others do.
As for my "Pinto Powered", and not complete Pinto project, I take no offense. I am offending both Mustang and Pinto purists with this thing, but the reality is I saved part of a Mustang and parts from a Pinto that in both cases would have (should have) been in a junkyard and crushed a long time ago! While dismantling the Pinto, I gave a lot of parts I didn't need away (free) to other Pinto owners, gave what was left of the body to another Pinto owner, and after I am done with my project will give the remaining parts to another Pinto owner that has already claimed dibs.
Project content: This weekend I will finish my fuel line project and maybe install the trunk mounted battery and run the pos and neg cables up to the engine compartment. I should run speaker wires at the same time so I can button up the interior with the inner quarters. I got an e-mail that my battery box arrived today. I may install the dash, dash pad, and instrument cluster too.
Sounds like a plan! Hope you have the time to get all those things accomplished!
Dwayne :)
I have been side tracked by a daily driver issue. Long story but a transmission problem. After my local garage replaced the neutral safety switch a year ago, I had an intermittent issue of the "D" disappearing on the dash, then the tranny would downshift from 5th to 4th, to 3rd. Not a good thing. It hadn't happened in about 8 months but recently started doing it again. I took it to the Mazda dealer to have them diagnose and repair. Inconclusive diagnosis so I had them order and install an OEM Mazda neutral safety switch, or as they call it, a Range Selector Switch. Now worse than ever. it goes forward in all gear positions, including Reverse. There is a point I can find Reverse in between P and R but I have to hold it there and it won't stay. They don't know what to do. The thing is, I drove it to NJ and back (600 miles) this past week and other local driving including to the Mazda shop with no issue. I need to get this figured out.
I did get a 60" 1/4" brake line to be used as the return fuel line and installed it. I need to get another short section, then secure both supply and return lines and tie in with flexible hose. I plan to do more today.
Hope you have a productive day and accomplish your goals!
Yesterday I didn't get anything done on the project. Today I got a 12" 1/4" line and fittings and installed it. I need to do a couple of bends, then I can tighten all the fittings and tie the fuel pump and fuel tank ends in with flexible fuel hose. I also primed and painted the brake and fuel line hangers and screws. I will likely secure the lines tomorrow. I cleaned up the short section of pipe that screws to the taillight panel (Mustang) to the tank and primed/painted the hardware. I would like to get the entire fuel system buttoned up.
My wife hit a deer this AM on the way to work so the unplanned drive to her work to look it over and file the claim, then the drive to the body shop killed some of my productive time. Going to the transmission shop to tell them my tale of whoa on my Mazda, then dropping it off there this PM also killed my productive time. Hopefully tomorrow will be better and I can get more done.
Glad it sounds like your wife is OK. Hopefully the repair to her car won't take too long and that the dealership can resolve the transmission issue on your Mazda. It's just frustrating to have it all happen at once. Maybe this weekend you can have time for your project!
Thank you for the well wishes and concern. These are merely speedbumps and will all be overcome.
Today I was able to finish up my fuel system. I installed the gas tank, fuel filler neck, and gas cap. I tightened all the fuel line fittings and connected the rigid fuel lines to the fuel pump and gas tank. I then test fit the rear wiring harness. I will be using the Pinto harness. I was concerned that the Pinto harness would be too narrow to reach the Mustang Taillights but it appears that they will fit just fine. I am going to have to make a few of modifications: I will have to splice the Mustang backup light wiring into the Pinto harness as the Mustang lights are in the lower valance panel. I will have to splice the Mustang license plate lamp wiring in to the Pinto harness. Lastly, I will have to splice the Mustang fuel gauge/float assembly wire into the Pinto harness. The Mustang uses one wire. The Pinto uses two and both have different connectors. I think the 2nd wire on the Pinto harness is for a low fuel warning light?
Tomorrow is another day and I plan to get more done. I am going to attempt to get the rear passenger windows operating properly.
Good to hear you made a lot of progress!
Yesterday (Wednesday) I made very little progress but the good news is that I got my Mazda back from the transmission shop so I have that back. So far, so good. It selects gear positions, shifts and drives as it should. I did investigate how I am going to run the rear wiring harness, speaker wires, and battery cables from the trunk to the cab and under hood. Didn't do anything permanent...just trying to brainstorm ideas. I also set the battery box in place in the trunk to figure out how I am going to secure it.
Today I got both rear quarter windows installed and operating. Both go up and down. The right side rollers will come out of the track if it goes down too far. I am going to have to install a stop to prevent it from going down too far.
I am going to spend some time tomorrow figuring out the wiring harness and battery installation. I need to go to NAPA to pick up the fitting I ordered and will use to hold the valves in place when I do the valve stem seal replacement. The first tool I bought (a hose that is supposed to screw into the spark plug hole would not thread in the 14mm hole. It also wouldn't accept a 1/4" npt air fitting at the other end as it was supposed to. I took it back and ordered a fitting that I will use instead. I've been procrastinating on that job but I'm going to have to just jump in and do it. I don't want to permanently install the valve cover until the seals are replaced.
Quote from: rob289c on October 22, 2024, 06:18:52 PM
Tomorrow is another day and I plan to get more done. I am going to attempt to get the rear passenger windows operating properly.
With that attitude, I'm sure you'll get it done! Hang in there!
Dwayne :)
Yea, "Stuff Happens." This year I really started to make progress on my "24 years on jackstands" Sunbeam Tiger. Then I got Covid and a lingering cough. Right after we had a heatwave that made the garage unbearable and as that dissipated I have now hurt my back and can barely hobble around. I've barely gotten anything done in three months and I'm not sure with the back issue when I'll be able to resume.
And what is it with backs? It was mildly sore but I still functioned at 90%. Then one day I was simply sanding, leaning on the car for support and elevated ever so slightly and WHAM! It has been 10 day and not getting better. Chronic problem since my early 20's and always the Very, VERY lower muscles right above the hip. It goes out a few times a year typically erasing 6 weeks of any year to getting work done. :-(
I'm sorry to hear of your back troubles. There's nothing worse than not being able to do normal activities due to pain and/or injury. Hopefully it will get better soon. I find that walking on my treadmill helps keep my back loose.
When I was in my 20's I always wondered why the "old guys" (30's and 40's) were always complaining of back pain. Now in my 60's I get it! Actually in 2004 I had a bulged disc and related sciatica. It did get better but I always have some degree of back discomfort. Probably arthritis now. Mine is worst after a day of climbing ladders or under a car all day.
Today I started mounting my trunk mounted battery box. It came with two flimsy plastic securing clamps and tiny screws. I decided to make my own out of 1" angle iron and welded them to the trunk floor. I cleaned up and primed the new brackets. Tomorrow I'll paint black and finish mounting the box. I started routing the 1-0 pos and neg battery cables. I'm concerned that the seat frame may impinge on the cables. I'll continue with that tomorrow. I may run the pos cable through a section of 3/4 heater hose to give it additional protection. Will report more tomorrow.
I agree about the battery box flimsiness. In my Corvair I transferred it to front trunk ("Frunk") and (bad back in consideration) mounted it high since the current price of $150+ batteries causes me to 'share' it with my other old cars. I welded 4 nuts to the body metal and then put a steel plate over top of the bottom of the box and screwed it down. This way the hold down strap goes under the plastic box and the metal plate and make things secure.
Regarding backs: I'm thin and relatively tall thus I have a small muscle structure. I also have an elongated torso so it is asking a lot of little muscle to keep me in balance. I had sciatica for 1.5 years. I was a teacher and used a wheeled elevated stool. The stool back pivoted and I would literally sit backwards on the stool and lean over the tilted back to rest and stretch my back as I used the white board and scurried about the college TV Studio which was split among four rooms when in Production. You do what you have to do to get the job done.
I like your idea about reinforcing the bottom of the battery box. I'm just going to strap it through my custom made brackets and cinch it down. It won't go anywhere.
Today I bought all the 3/4" and 1" cushion clamps the hardware store had so tomorrow I will likely secure the battery cables a I route from the trunk, through the cabin, and into the engine compartment. I wanted to buy 4' if 3/4" heater hose to run the pos cable through for extra protection, but NAPA closed at 2:00, the hardware store had it for almost $4 per foot, and Advance Auto didn't have any. I figured Advance would be cheaper, but it was more expensive. Advance has been disappointing of late. Unless it is a product that I could also get at Walmart, they just don't seem to have what I need when I go there, not to mention, the counter guys are not car guys and don't understand what I am looking for.
Tomorrow (Sunday) I should make some progress. I will be on the road next week so after tomorrow, i won't be back on it until next weekend.
Today I got a better idea on my trunk mounted battery cable routing. I watched a few videos and discovered that I need to install/incorporate a 150 -200 amp, manual reset circuit breaker. I never gave it a thought. I will get one on order. I also decided that I am not going to run the ground cable from the trunk to the engine. I am going to connect the ground from the battery to one of the rear bumper mount bolts and another ground cable from the front frame to the engine block. I have the small ground strap that attaches from the back of the engine to the firewall. I had been worried about how to route the positive cable to the front. I was concerned that the the cable might be in the way of the inner quarter. There is plenty of clearance and I have a pretty good path to the starter relay. A lot of worrying for nothing. I have the cable temporarily routed but not secured until I after I get the circuit breaker. The positive cable will route through on the right side of the car and the other factory rear harness routes down the left side. In both cases I think I have a clear path but there are no rocker panels so both harness and batt cable turn inboard and will run along the frame. I also removed the mounting bracket from the old rear bumper, wire wheeled the bracket and attaching hardware, primed and painted. I am going to mount the rear bumper after the paint dries. I have some "surgery" to perform on the taillight housings. The lower portion on both sides are badly corroded. I disassembled one and cut the corroded portion out. The other has two screws that I am having trouble removing. I am going to exercise patience so I don't ruin the housing or lens. I am going to let the penetrating oil work. Once that one is apart, I will weld new metal in place, then seal it up, prime, and paint silver. I think that's all I got done today. I also had "leaf duty". Most of the leaves have fallen so any future leaf removal will be smaller in scale. On the road until Thursday evening so nothing more to report until next weekend.
Kind of funny how front mounted engines will often get rear mounted batteries, and my rear engine Corvair..., I did a front mount. I too had concerns about wire chaffing and just used far cheaper clear tubing from the hardware store. I already had it and needed only 2' to run down the sharp edged door hinge area. Then it was a trip through the door sill plate trough, under the rear seat and to the starter.
Years ago at a swap meet I bought what I would call an industrial suitcase that seemed to originally house test equipment (I had intended it for video lighting gear). It was all of $3 and there were a number of random things inside that came with it. One of those things was at least 20 feet of #4, yellow silicone wrapped, fine strand wire you see in the picture. That is probably $60 today. It works just fine! There are less costly wires out there but the strand count is lower and the insulating material both combined to make it stiffer.
I think my cable path is clear and safe enough that I won't have to sleeve it. Where it will be visible I will encase in that black corrugated stuff to help it blend in and offer some protection. I'm in my hotel wishing I was home working on my project. The week will go by fast and I'll get more done.
Some progress made today. I spent roughly 3 hours repairing the bottoms of my taillight housings. Both were badly corroded, one much worse than the other. I cut out the cancer then fabricated patches and welded in place. The really bad one had very little good metal to weld to but in the end both are pretty sturdy. I will prime, use some tiger hair to seal and smooth things up, then more primer and paint. I need to order taillight lens gaskets, and clean up the rubber that is encrusted with corrosion from the original corroded taillight panel. Once everything is in place, none of it will be visible and will be functional. I am saving about $200 by repairing and re-using the old parts. I have a set of new taillight bezels that I will put in my Fastback and use the ones currently in the Fastback in this project. They are pitted, but in much better shape than the ones that came with the project Mustang.
Tomorrow I will do more and report.
Other projects today: attempted repair, then replaced an entry door knob set. They don't last long. I also disassembled and PM'd my dehumidifier. The drain had plugged and wasn't draining. I cleaned the evap coil and drain pan. All good now,
Progress today: Mounted the rear bumper. One of the mounting bolts is going to be the battery to frame ground point. I also washed the taillight lenses while doing the breakfast dishes. Dawn detergent did a nice job of removing 57 years of grime.
Battery is mounted in the trunk. I made the following cables: battery ground to rear bumper mount, frame to engine ground, positive battery to trunk-mounted circuit breaker, Circuit breaker to starter relay location. I haven't crimped the lug at the relay end yet as I want to secure the cable and mount the relay first so I make it the correct length. Another day's project. I also need to make the relay to starter cable.
I wanted to do more but taking down Halloween decorations, leaf duty, mowing , and other household chores took precedence. More to come next week...
I only made a small amount of progress this weekend. I sprayed the remaining corroded areas of the taillight housings with rust converter, then primer. Then I spread tiger hair over the repaired area. I haven't sanded it smooth yet. Once I do, they will get another treatment of primer, then silver paint. I ordered and received the taillight assembly gaskets so once the housings are in paint, I can reassemble them. I bought more cushion clamps and speaker wire so I can get all the rear wiring properly run and secured. While the interior panels are off I need to swap rear window channels from side to side. I found a resource that identifies why my rear windows don't go all the way down: the channels are currently on the wrong side. Hopefully swapping them will correct the full travel issue. In the near future I need to replace the valve stem seals and install the valve cover, then install the front grill assembly, front bumper, and headlights. Then I can reinstall the engine compartment wiring harness, and install the dash and dash pad. That will allow me to connect all the wiring harnesses. If I can get that done I will feel like I made good progress, although I didn't get to hear it run or drive it.
My excuse for not doing more is that our first grandchild was born yesterday. Our daughter was induced and has been at the hospital since Thursday AM. I had to take my wife there and back several times and I wasn't able to get too deep into any of my projects.
I will be travelling for work again this week but should be back at it next weekend.
Happy Veterans Day to all those that served. Thank you for serving...
Congratulations on the new addition to your family!
Thank you...she is a beautiful baby girl!
Yes!!! Progress AND a new granddaughter!! ;D ! I know the feeling (well, excluding the progress ::)) because the due date for our first grandchild, also a girl, is Sunday, November 17th. We're all giddy with excitement! Our son and daughter-in-law will be celebrating their 12th wedding anniversary next month and we had pretty much given up on them ever making us grandparents. Enjoy!
I think you're making great progress on that roadster and the taillights look amazing. Keep up the good work and you'll have it on the road before you know it! Thanks for sharing!
Dwayne :)
Dwayne, I will be praying for a healthy baby granddaughter for you and an easy delivery for your DIL! I haven't had a chance to spen time with our new addition as I have been out of town this week. I'll see her over the weekend.
Well, this seems like the place for baby grand daughters. Our first (and only..., so far) will be 11 months tomorrow. All the best to the new moms/dads (and grand parents).
Yesterday (Saturday) I spent the first bit of time with our baby Shelby (fitting name for a Mustang family). No crying...just laid there while I held her.
Pinto content: I didn't spend much time with the car. I swapped the rear window channels side to side. Now both sides go all the way down. Much better now that I have the parts in the right places! I ran the speaker wires on both sides. I need to get different wire clamps for the left side rear harness. The cushion clamps I have are too big. I will buy some smaller diameter plastic clamps and get that side secured. Then I can reinstall the seat and inner panels.
Other than that, I spent most of my time transforming my shop into a Winter storage facility. The bikes and Mustang are put away, as are other items. I hung the Christmas lights that require the 28' extension ladder and 15' step ladder. It was 50 deg and dry today so it was the right day to do it. I'm going to run out of project time so I need to make more project next weekewnd!
Good morning, friends! Sadie was born 2 days ahead of her due date, arriving Friday afternoon. She was ultimately delivered by C-Section because her head position had changed which somehow or another caused her umbilical cord to get tangled. At any rate, she, mama, and daddy are all doing fine. I got my first look at her Saturday morning and held her for a few minutes, then last evening my wife and I visited and spent nearly two hours with them. My wife held her for a few minutes but then handed her off to me because she started getting fussy. She calmed down and stayed in my arms for the duration of the visit. I bottle-fed her while her parents ate and ended the evening with a diaper change. It's been a LONG time since I last did those things, but we got along pretty well. Thank you, guys, for your good wishes. Rob, I'm amazed you made any progress at all! I've accomplished nothing the last several days! lol
Dwayne :)
Congratulations on Sadie's addition to your family! Glad all are doing well.
Quote from: dga57 on November 18, 2024, 08:26:14 AM
" ... Rob, I'm amazed you made any progress at all! ..."
Dwayne :)
I'll second that, especially when he says, "I didn't get much done ..."
When my wife delivered our son (33+ years ago) I was shocked to see how spiraled the umbilical cord was. It seemed like a few more twists and nothing would have passed through! When he was about 1 years old we put him in one of those "suspended over the doorway Johnny Jump-ups." He was a total spaz and I very readily saw how the cord got so twisted. ;D
Dwayne, congrats on Sadie's arrival! Her name is in the title of one of my favorite Beatles songs. Our granddaughter wasn't in the correct position either...they were able to turn her and immediately induced labor. It was almost 3 days before she was born. They tried avoiding a C-Section and were successful. I hope your DIL recovers quickly.
We just went and saw our Shelby after picking up my wife's car at the body shop. Deer hit damage has been repaired!
A little progress today: I previously only installed two of the required four rear bumper mounting bolts. Today I Installed the other two including new washers and anti-seize in case they ever need to come back out. When I installed the outboard left bolt, I attached the negative battery cable to be the main ground point. I secured the rear wiring harness to the inner body shell and it is now hidden behind the interior panels. I crimped the lugs on the end of the speaker wires, then I installed the speakers to the rear package tray, then the package tray to the rear deck. That required surgery that I didn't expect. The package tray I bought is supposed to allow 6x9 speakers in 65-67 Mustangs as the rear decks didn't come with cutouts for that size speakers. Unfortunately it wasn't a drop-in and I had to cut out additional metal to make them fit. Pretty much like a lot of this project. I re-installed the rear seat and interior panels as I shouldn't have to see anything behind or under until Spring. Tomorrow will be a non-project day. I'll get back on it next weekend. I will be meeting my car club buddies at a fire department for breakfast, then head to Syracuse for the 174th FW Alumni Thanksgiving Dinner so those two events will kill the day.
If I don't post between now and Thursday, I wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. We have a lot to be thankful for...
It's been over a month since I made any progress and today may be the last until Spring. Today I attached the grill into the header panel, then the header panel to the car. Then I mounted the front bumper, then the headlight buckets. I think that will be it for 2024. I'll resume in the Spring. I hope everyone has a good Winter and a Healthy and Prosperous New Year!
I haven't done anything or posted anything in a while. Just saying hello. Stay warm to any that are in the Polar Vortex!
Tuesday night here in northeast Florida, sleet, ice, and possibly snow are predicted!
We're at 12 deg today. About 8" of snow yesterday. Over the next few days in Upstate NY we could see snowfalls measured in feet south of Buffalo and up near Watertown. I'm in the Rochester area and may get another 3-4" tonight and tomorrow. Thursday we start a warm up with temps in the mid-20's. Pretty standard stuff for us...stay warm and safe in FL!
We could sure use some of that "solidified dampness" here is So. Cal.. My wife's cousin lost her home (among hundreds..., maybe thousands) in the Altadena "Eaton" fire. The first picture is her location (small circled area near center). Red is destroyed, green some damage, black no damage. Second picture is the house..., well what is left of it.
That is all very sad. Hard to fathom how it can happen. I pray for your wife's cousin and others that have lost possessions and lives. A lot of people complain about our NY weather, but really, we get 4 seasons: Spring, Summer, and Fall are nice, and Winter is really a short annoyance. We're half way through it at this point. We don't get hurricanes, tornados (very rare), earthquakes (very rare), tsunamis, wild fires or mudslides. All in all, our weather isn't horrible, but the hot rods, motorcycles and other toys have to be put away a few months of the year. The NY politics bother me more than the weather.
It seems like recently that no area of the U.S.A. has been spared from severe weather of some type. Florida's seasons are more subtle than areas further north, but I love that cold weather never really lasts long. We've had a few nights below freezing, but by Monday, the temperature is predicted to be 70? again.
For me, I'd like a compromise...maybe a Carolina? Still has seasons, but not the extreme hot of Florida and not the Winter (and taxes) of NY.
Just checking in after a long absence. I've been on a special assignment in Michigan and not a lot of time for anything other than "must do" tasks. I stay out here for three weeks, then go home for a weekend, Going home next weekend, then back out here. Hopefully this will be done soon. With the weather changing I want to get back out in the shop to "finish" my project. I'll look over the recent posts to see what I've been missing.
Quote from: rob289c on April 06, 2025, 05:44:01 PMJust checking in after a long absence.... I'll look over the recent posts to see what I've been missing.
LOL, no new post (March 6th to April 6th) in 30 days. Hope you get back to your project as you were about the only regular poster here.
I should talk..., had the Pinto AAA-ed home as it was running crappy about this time last Spring. Paid the $148 registration in August 2024..., and it is still on the refrigerator with a magnet. I bought a new battery about 4 months ago..., and it sits on a trickle charger. The wife keeps coming up with projects and I'm too skilled and too frugal to let her pay someone else to do them. I'm a victim of my own success. ;D :(
I look forward to when you are able to start posting about your project again!
I'm home for the weekend, but won't be touching the project. Yesterday I worked on my Ranger. Check Engine light was on...I had to bypass a section of rotted purge valve tubing with a foot of hose and hose clamps. Hopefully that was the only issue. Then re-installed the deck on the mower and changed the oil. Got it ready for my son to start mowing while I'm away. Went through 2 weeks worth of mail and did the administrative and bill paying tasks. Then dropped the Ranger off at the repair shop and picked up my daily driver Mazda. I had the rear springs replaced on the Mazda and the Ranger needs an antilock brake sensor replaced. I'm going to drive the Mazda back to MI rather than flying this time. The Lake Erie Lake Effect snow machine should be off for the season. I had to jam on the brakes on the way home yesterday and the right front seems to have hung up as I could smell it and feel the heat so I'll have to investigate today before driving 8 hours tomorrow. I have plans to replace the front pads, rotors, calipers, and rear pads and rotors this Summer but not prepared to do it now so hopefully I can free up whatever hung up yesterday. Going out shortly to rake my back yard. It's an annual Spring ritual to get the debris up so the grass grows and don't chew up sticks with the mower.
Wow! Your weekend chores make me feel like a sloth! I keep looking at my yard where the wild onions and spiderwort seem to have emerged overnight. I usually mow around the spiderwort as it is one of the few plants providing spring food for bees. We are surrounded by hay fields so there are very few food sources for the bees. Have a safe drive back to MI!
I went home again this past weekend...too many things to do Nd not enough time to do it all! I did do a little on the project though. I pushed it out of its Winter spot so I could get the Harley out. Then pushed it right back. Late last Fall I made repairs to the bottom of the Mustang tail light housings, then smeared Tiger Hair over the seams to seal things up. Sunday I sanded the fiberglass smooth. It's not perfect but it is mostly on the inside and bottom where it won't be seen. When it warms up I will prime and paint silver inside an out. That's all I accomplished on the project. I should be done with this Michigan mission on May 23, then I should be home for a while. Hopefully I can get a lot done and get this thing drivable.