Am I correct in assuming this cut black w/red wire feeds the blower motor?
Beginning to rectify sins of the previous owner.
According to a wiring diagram, there is a Resistor wire or resistor in the leads from a connector (Red/Black) that feeds the Blower motor. If that's a fuse holder in the image, then look further into the wiring to the motor. Could have a problem with the motor and the fuse was overload protection against a failing motor. Most blower motor circuits have a Variable resistor to allow for the fan speed changes at the switch position.
That is a cobbled together rig in which the factory wire was cut, connected to an inline fuse holder which was then crammed into the hot side of a fuse location.
I assume it is for the blower motor due to the blower not working and the fuse holder being severally heat damaged.
And speaking of wiring diagrams, what is a good source for comprehensive wiring diagrams?
Quote from: powderblue76 on February 05, 2018, 08:19:25 AM
That is a cobbled together rig in which the factory wire was cut, connected to an inline fuse holder which was then crammed into the hot side of a fuse location.
I assume it is for the blower motor due to the blower not working and the fuse holder being severally heat damaged.
And speaking of wiring diagrams, what is a good source for comprehensive wiring diagrams?
My reference is a Clymer Pinto manual, which has all the diagrams for each model year. I'll bet that fuse holder was to replace the Resistor wire in the harness that is for the voltage speed control to the motor. The wire may have failed and he put a fuse holder to make it work. The motor may not even be OEM.
Worth following up on , from the switch all the way to the Motor.
Pintosopher
I agree with Pintosopher.
I also noticed in the picture that the factory fuse holder and fuses have a fair amount of corrosion on them. And that the factory Heater - A/C fuse (fan motor) has the appearance of being blown (see image). The repair might not be as hacked as it appears. Whoever put the modren style fuse in might have been avoiding a troubled spot with the corroded factory fuse holder. Therefore what looks like a hack is simply reasonable way of working aound a problem.
As mentioned above work your way to the fan motor and you will likely find the cause of the problem. The motors tend to have the lubrication dry up or leaves/twigs etc. prevent the fan from rotating. This puts a load on the motor that blows fuses. Seeing how the replacement fuse holder is fried I'd suspect someone kept installing higher rated fuses to keep them from blowing until thet exceeded the rating of the fuse socket. Cleaning/lubing the fan motor or replacing it if fried will likely be necessary.
If you have a non-A/C car (fan mounts in the firewall, not under the dash) I recall a wire simply passes through the fan mounting foam and can be very suspect to abraiding the insulation off. I'd also look at cleaning the corrosion on that factory fuse holder. Sadly they are typically thin steel coated with copper and a tin like plating. Once they start to corrode it can be very difficult to stop. Perhaps a thin coat of solder over the fuse contact points would help somewhat.
Thanks for the replies.
This is indeed an A/C car, and also the heater core is bypassed due to having a leak.
When we get that all torn down to replace the core i will do a thorough systems check too.
I did mention the wire was just crammed around one of the fuse ends, right?
I hear getting the heater core out is a pleasant undertaking.
The seats will be coming out.
Tried to modify that last reply, it got messed up.
I am wondering if a light application of bulb grease would be appropriate after cleaning the contacts and before new fuses are installed.
Should I take down the fuse box and PM the back side too?
Quote from: powderblue76 on February 06, 2018, 08:53:33 AM
Tried to modify that last reply, it got messed up.
I am wondering if a light application of bulb grease would be appropriate after cleaning the contacts and before new fuses are installed.
Should I take down the fuse box and PM the back side too?
Given the circumstances of the Added Fuse, I would remove the whole thing and check for Fuse block overheating and resultant distortion. The wires deserve a thorough inspection feeding the block.
Just a cautionary 2 cents..
roger that...
Could have a problem with the motor and the fuse was overload protection against a failing motor